BEER IN GRECO-ROMAN ANTIQUITY BY MAX NELSON IZAAK WALTON KILLAM PRE-DOCTORAL FELLOW B.A., UNIVERSITY OF WINDSOR, 1994 M.A., UNIVERSrTY OF OTTAWA, 1997 A THESIS SUBMITTED IN PARTIAL FULFILMENT OF THE REQUIREMENTS FOR THE DEGREE OF DOCTOR OF PHILOSOPHY IN THE FACULTY OF GRADUATE STUDIES DEPARTMENT OF CLASSICAL, NEAR-EASTERN, AND RELIGIOUS STUDIES WE ACCEPT THIS THESIS AS CONFORMING TO THE REQUIRED STANDARD: THE UNTVERSITY OF BRITISH COLUMBIA JUNE 2001 ©MAX NELSON, 2001 In presenting this thesis in partial fulfilment of the requirements for an advanced degree at the University of British Columbia, I agree that the Library shall make it freely available for reference and study. I further agree that permission for extensive copying of this thesis for scholarly purposes may be granted by the head of my department or by his or her representatives. It is understood that copying or publication of this thesis for financial gain shall not be allowed without my written permission. Department of GUsffte^ /iWtf- fi^st&j^ ^ ^el^od.? S^°^^ The University of British Columbia Vancouver, Canada Date 2£> 2.QO/ f ABSTRACT: This thesis is an attempt to collect all the evidence for beer found in ancient Greek and Latin authors, from 700 B.C. to A.D. 900, and to provide analysis of and commentary on this material. The thesis is divided into three parts, one on the philology of beer, dealing with the various words and expressions for the beverage in Greek and Latin, one on the technology of beer, dealing with the methods of beer production in antiquity and the characteristics of the final product, and finally, one on the ideology of beer, dealing with Greek and Roman views concerning the drink and their subsequent influence on others. 107 words ii TABLE OF CONTENTS: TITLE PAGE... i ABSTRACT ii TABLE OF CONTENTS iii LIST OF TABLES viii LIST OF FIGURES ix LIST OF MAPS x ACKNOWLEDGMENTS xi CHAPTER 1: INTRODUCTION 1 1.1 Alcoholic Beverages 1 1.2 Beer 5 1.3 The History of Beer 7 1.4 Aim, Methodology, and Scope 9 1.5 Sources 12 1.5.1 Literary 12 1.5.2 Epigraphic 15 1.5.3 Papyrological 16 1.5.4 Archaeological 17 1.6 Modem Scholarship 17 CHAPTER 2: THE PHILOLOGY OF BEER 19 2.1 The Nature of the Greek and Latin Terminology 19 2.1.1 The Lack of a Greek or Latin voxpropria for Beer.... 19 2.1.2 Periphrases for Beer 21 2.1.2.1 Intoxicant (ue9u Ifermentum) 22 2.1.2.2 Wine(oivoc,/ vinum) 26 2.1.2.3 Drink or Beverage (7t6pa/7i6at^/7iOT6v/7icopa / humor/liquor/ potiolpotusltisana) 29 2.1.2.4 Juice(yyikoc,/ iuslsuccuslsucus) 32 2.1.3 Synecdoches for Beer 33 2.1.3.1 ppUTOc/ppuxov : 34 2.1.3.2 QQocJ^mocJCpQoq I zythum 34 2.1.3.3 KripPrjaia/ cervesia 36 2.1.3.4 chcepaIsicera 38 2.2 Specific Terms for Various Types of Beer 40 2.2.1 PpouTocyPpuxov/Ppuxo^Ppuxoc/PpuTTOv ...40 2.2.1.1 PpuxTtov 46 2.2.1.2 46 ppUTivoc, 2.2.1.3 ppwtKOC, 47 2.2.2 caelialcelea(y)lcelialcerealceria(l)lcilicia(l) 47 in 2.2.2.1 cerearius 51 2.2.3 furta 51 2.2.4 K&UOV / camum 52 2.2.5 KspPr|ova / cerbesialcerevisalcerevisialcervesalcervesialcervisal cervisialcervissa 53 2.2.5.1 cervesariuslcerevisiarius 58 2.2.5.2 cerevisor 60 2.2.6 Kopua/KoOpuiVcormalcurmenlcurmi 61 2.2.7 7iapapiac/7iapaptri 64 2.2.8 7iivov... 65 2.2.9 sabaialsabaium 69 2.2.9.1 sabaiarius 71 2.2.10 mKepct/aiKepa/sz'cera 71 2.2.10.1 sicerator 73 2.2.11 ^TjOov/^uGocy^uOoc/^iJTOv/^UTOc/^uxoc; / zithumlzitoslzutuslzythuml zyihus 73 2.2.11.1 CuGiov 80 2.2.11.2 ^UXIKOC, 81 2.2.11.3 tjuxrjpd 81 2.2.11.4 £U9O7IOI6<^UTOTOI6C,, Cpxaq, and £uxo7iroA.nc/£ux67rmX.ic, 85 2.2.11.5 ^uxorcoieco and ^uxo7ioua/7rapa£uxo7ioua 87 2.2.11.6 ^rjTOTCC0X£lOv/^UTO7l6X,lOV 87 2.2.11.7 *£uxoupy£iov/*£uxoupYiov 88 2.3 Conclusions about the Terminology 89 CHAPTER 3: THE TECHNOLOGY OFBEER 95 3.1 The Beer Production Process 95 3.2 Cereals.... 97 3.2.1 Barley (KpiQi]/ hordeum) 106 3.2.2 Wheat (KopocjaixoqItriticumlfmmentum) 108 3.2.3 Millet(y±^ypocJi\v\ioql panicumlmUium) 110 3.2.4 Rice(opu^a/opu^ov/oryzd) Ill 3.2.5 Oats(Ppouoc,Iavenalbromos) 112 3.2.6 Rye(^piCp./secale/centenum) 113 3.3 Conversion 115 3.3.1 Masticating 115 3.3.2 Malting 116 3.3.2.1 Steeping 116 3.3.2.2 Germinating 117 3.3.2.3 Drying/Roasting 118 3.3.2.4 The Terminology for Malt 118 3.3.3 Mashing 123 3.4 Baking and Brewing 124 iv 3.4.1 Baking 124 3.4.2 Brewing 126 3.4.3 The Possible Greek Distinction between Baked and Brewed Beer 129 3.5 Additives 129 3.5.1 Honey 131 3.5.2 Dates 135 3.5.3 Grapes 135 3.5.4 Berries 136 3.5.5 Sedge ... 137 3.5.6 Meadowsweet 138 3.5.7 Heather 139 3.5.8 Sweet Gale or Bog Myrtle 139 3.5.9 Hops.... 140 3.5.10 Lupine, Skirwort, and Assyrian Root 145 3.5.11 Safflower 146 3.5.12 Fleabane 147 3.5.13 Henbane 147 3.6 Fermentation and the use of Yeast (^v\vc\lfermentum) 149 3.6.1 Spontaneous Fermentation 149 3.6.2 Artificial Fermentation 150 3.6.3 The Ancient Knowledge of Fermentation 152 3.7 Filtration 154 3.8 Storage and Transportation 155 3.8.1 The Barrel 155 3.9 Aging Beer 158 3.10 Drinking Vessels 159 3.10.1 Bark 161 3.10.2 Horn 161 3.10.3 Clay 162 3.10.4 Bronze 163 3.11 Ancient Breweries ...163 3.11.1 Breweries in Belgium 164 3.11.2 Breweries in Germany 165 3.11.3 Breweries in Britain 166 3.11.4 The Breweries at the Abbey of St. Gall, Switzerland 167 3.12 Characteristics of Beer 170 3.12.1 Appearance 172 3.12.2 Aroma 172 3.12.3 Taste and Mouth-Feel 174 3.12.4 Strength 177 3.12.5 Carbonation and Foam 177 CHAPTER4: THE IDEOLOGY OF BEER 179 v 4.1 The Social-Construction of Drinking 180 4.1.1 Beer in Sacred Rituals 182 4.1.1.1 The Divine Libation 182 4.1.1.2 The Mortuary Feast 185 4.1.2 Beer in Secular Rituals 185 4.1.2.1 The Symposium 186 4.1.2.2 The Communal Vessel Feast 187 4.1.2.3 The Political Drinking Bout 188 4.2 Drinking as Marker of Identity and Alterity 189 4.2.1 The Functional Marginality of Beer 190 4.2.1.1 The Exclusion ofBeer from the Greco-Roman Diet 190 4.2.1.2 Beer as Imitation of and Substitute for Wine 195 4.2.1.3 Beer in Medicine 196 4.2.1.4 Beer in War 199 4.2.1.4.1 Belgian Gaul 200 4.2.1.4.2 Britain 202 4.2.1.4.3 Egypt 204 4.2.1.4.4 Intoxicated Elephants in Battle 205 4.2.2 The Spatial Marginality ofBeer 208 4.2.3 The Social Marginality of Beer 215 4.2.3.1 Civility and Barbarity 215 4.2.3.2 Questions of Age, Gender, and Class 217 4.2.3.2.1 Age 217 4.2.3.2.2 Gender 217 4.2.3.2.3 Class 221 4.3 The Influence of the Greco-Roman Beer Ideology 223 4.3.1 Gauls 224 4.3.2 Egyptians 225 4.3.3 European Christians 227 CHAPTER 5: CONCLUSIONS 234 5.1 Ancient Beer 234 5.2 Ancient Beer-Drinking Practices 234 BIBLIOGRAPHY 236 1 Primary Sources 236 1.1 Literary Sources 236 1.1.1 In Chronological Order 236 1.1.2 Editions 241 1.2 Epigraphic Sources 246 1.2.1 By Languages with Editions 246 1.3 Papyrological Sources 247 1.3.1 In Chronological Order 247 vi 1.3.2 Editions 249 2 Secondary Sources 258 APPENDIX I: GRECO-ROMAN LITERARY SOURCES ON BEER 281 APPENDIX U: GRECO-ROMAN EPIGRAPHIC SOURCES ON BEER 386 APPENDIX m: SPURIOUS GRECO-ROMAN REFERENCES TO BEER 396 APPENDIX IV: RECREATING ANCIENT BEERS 399 vii LIST OF TABLES: Table 1: Greek and Latin Periphrases for Beer 22 Table 2: Cervesia and Related Words 56 Table 3: Origins of the Greek and Latin Words for Beer 90 Table 4: Types ofBeer in Greek and Latin according to Local Associations 91 Table 5: Types ofBeer in Greek and Latin according to Cereal Ingredient(s) 92 Table 6: The Ancient Beer Production Process 96 Table 7: Ancient Cereals Connected to Beer Production 99 Table 8: Cereals used in Beer Production, by Location 100 Table9: Cereals usedinBeer Production, by Price in Diocletian's Edict 105 Table 10: Evidence for Additives to Beer in Antiquity 148 Table 11: Beery Miracles (up to A.D. 900) 232 viii LIST OF FIGURES: Figure 1: The Godin Tepe Sherd (from Michel, McGovern, and Badler 1992: 24) 8 Figure 2: Near Eastern Straw Tip (from Wartke 1998: 95, fig. 6) 154 Figure 3: A Celtic Boot ofBeer? (from Ruprechtsberger 1992c: 25, fig. 1) 162 Figure 4: The Brewery in Ronchinne (fromBequet 1895: pi.) 164 Figure 5: The Brewery in Regensburg (fromRieckhoff 1992: 30, fig. 2) 165 Figure 6: The Possible Brewery in Vindolanda (from Birley 1977:45, fig. 11) 166 Figure 7: ILTG 529 (fromLambert 1994: 123) 386 Figure 8: GLG 12 (fromMarichal 1988: 132) 387 Figure 9: GLG 14 (fromMarichal 1988: 136) 387 Figure 10: CLL VII.176 - RIB 1.278 (from Collingwood and Wright 1965: 93) 387 Figure 11: CIL XIU. 10012.7a (from deBarthelemy 1877: 177) 388 Figure 12: CIL XIU. 10018.7a (from the edition) 389 Figure 13: CIL XIII. 11319 (author's drawing from the original) 390 Figure 14: AE 1928, no. 183 =A7no. 41 (author's drawing from the original) 390 Figure 15: Unpublished (?) Inscription from Trier, Germany (author's drawing from the original) 391 Figure 16: OGIS200 (fromHuber 1928: 78) 395 Figure 17: Julius Caesar Enjoying a Beer (from Gocar 1987: 60) 397 Figure 18: The "Brewer" of Arlon, Belgium(from a postcard from the museum of Arlon,Belgium)398 ix
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