BEER, FOOD, AND FLAVOR BEER, FOOD, AND FLAVOR A Guide to Tasting, Pairing, and the Culture of Craft Beer SCHUYLER SCHULTZ Foreword by Peter Zien, Brewmaster/Owner, AleSmith Brewing Co. Skyhorse Publishing Copyright © 2012 by Schuyler Schultz Foreword copyright © 2012 by Peter Zien All Rights Reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any manner without the express written consent of the publisher, except in the case of brief excerpts in critical reviews or articles. All inquiries should be addressed to Skyhorse Publishing, 307 West 36th Street, 11th Floor, New York, NY 10018. Skyhorse Publishing books may be purchased in bulk at special discounts for sales promotion, corporate gifts, fund-raising, or educational purposes. Special editions can also be created to specifications. For details, contact the Special Sales Department, Skyhorse Publishing, 307 West 36th Street, 11th Floor, New York, NY 10018 or [email protected]. Skyhorse® and Skyhorse Publishing® are registered trademarks of Skyhorse Publishing, Inc.®, a Delaware corporation. Visit our website at www.skyhorsepublishing.com. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Schultz, Schuyler. Beer, food, and flavor : a guide to tasting, pairing, and the culture of craft beer / by Schuyler Schultz ; foreword by Peter Zien. p. cm. ISBN 978-1-61608-679-4 (hardcover : alk. paper) 1. Beer. 2. Food and beer pairing. I. Title. TP577.S385 2012 641.2’3—dc23 2012018215 Printed in China To my wife, Amy. Sharing the pleasures of life together is my greatest source of inspiration. To my dad—your support and encouragement made writing this book possible. And to my mom—thank you for teaching me to cook. CONTENTS Foreword by Peter Zien INTRODUCTION The Craft Beer and Fine Food Movement in America Pairing Fine Beer and Fine Food Starting Points CHAPTER ONE: TASTING BEER Part I: Beer Styles Part II: The Sensory Components of Beer Part III: Evaluating Craft Beer—A Tasting Vocabulary Part IV: Sample Beer Analyses CHAPTER TWO: PAIRING CRAFT BEER WITH FINE CUISINE Part I: What Makes a Good Pairing? Part II: Complementary and Contrasting Pairings Part III: Pairing Beer to Food—Selecting Beers Using “Area of Focus” Part IV: Pairing Food to Beer—Creating Menus CHAPTER THREE: BEER AND CHEESE—LONG-STANDING COMPANIONS Part I: The Beer and Cheese Pairing Part II: Cheese Basics Part III: Cheese’s Role in the Meal Part IV: The Right Beer with the Right Cheese CHAPTER FOUR: THE PHILOSOPHY OF CRAFT BREWING Part I: AleSmith Brewing Company and the Craft Brewing Community Part II: Craft Brewing Methods—The Stories of Two Beers CHAPTER FIVE: NOTABLE AMERICAN CRAFT BREWERS AND THEIR ART Preface: The 10 Most Important American Craft Beers Part I: California Bear Republic Brewing Company The Lost Abbey Brewing Company Russian River Brewing Company Part II: The Pacific Northwest Cascade Brewing Company Deschutes Brewing Company Part III: The Rockies Avery Brewing Company Great Divide Brewing Company Part IV: The Midwest Bell’s Brewing Company Founders Brewing Company New Glarus Brewing Company Three Floyds Brewing Company Part V: The Northeast Allagash Brewing Company Captain Lawrence Brewing Company Victory Brewing Company Part VI: The South Cigar City Brewing Company Terrapin Brewing Company CHAPTER SIX: THE GREATER CRAFT BEER COMMUNITY Part I: Online Craft Beer Communities RateBeer and BeerAdvocate Part II: Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) Part III: The Brewers Association Great American Beer Festival, World Beer Cup, Savor: An American Craft Beer & Food Experience Part IV: Cicerone Certification Program Part V: Books You Should Read Books About Beer Books About Food Books About Brewing Part VI: Closing Thoughts Acknowledgments Appendix: Peter Zien’s Russian Imperial Stout Homebrew Recipe Glossary Photo Credits Index FOREWORD There’s a lot of pressure put upon the young to choose their path and identify an occupation well before they’re ready to make a good choice. And sometimes the chosen occupation can feel more like a prison sentence than a way to showcase one’s talents or skill sets. I didn’t find my way as a professional brewer until later in life, and I was fortunate to have understanding parents who allowed me the time to find out what suited me best. Completing my major in political science and deciding to enter law school seemed like a logical choice, though I had no idea where destiny would take me. But throughout it all my life-long interests in travel, food, and beer continued to give me the greatest feelings of happiness that I could attain. On the day that the Gulf War broke out in January of 1991, I made the decision to follow my dream of doing a job that I could actually love and gave up on any plan of becoming a practicing attorney. I went to work with my father as the president of a successful home repair finance company and took up homebrewing for the first time. I quickly realized that this hobby had the potential to change my life. Six years later, in 2002, I seized on the opportunity to purchase a commercial brewery with a respected name: the AleSmith Brewing Company in San Diego, California. What attracted me to craft beer was the unflinching commitment to high quality that this community embodies. At a time when we, as a country, are reassessing the quality of our food and where it comes from, the craft beer segment is driving a similar renaissance of quality, growth, and acceptance among brewers and consumers. It’s been ten years since I bought AleSmith, and craft beer continues to post double-digit annual growth numbers, eating away at the dominance of macrobrewers. And our choices have only increased. A wonderful part of this awakening to quality and flavor is the ability to pair the exceptional food being prepared today with the diversity of craft beer now available. Once reserved only for wine drinkers, the simple pleasure of pairing well-made dishes with craft beer is beginning to make inroads into the larger culinary scene. It is quickly becoming evident that pairing food and beer is natural and fun, and that anyone can participate in and enjoy this enhanced dining experience. “Roasted” and “caramelized” aromas and flavors found in many dishes can also be found in many beer styles, thus creating a natural bridge between food and drink. But it doesn’t stop there. For every unique cuisine