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Beer & Brewer - Issue 62 - Spring 2022 PDF

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MASTER THE MID-STRENGTH! PRO BREWING TIPS FOR LOW ALC BEERS INCLUDING ISSUE 62 SPRING 2022 ALPHA PRICE $9.95 (NZ $11.95) 137 PALE CRAFT BEERS REVIEWED BREWER JAYNE LEWIS ON THE AUSSIE PALE’S ENDURING POPULARITY THE NOSE KNOWS TASTING SECRETS HOPPING FORWARD THE FUTURE OF HOPS WWW.BEERANDBREWER.COM PLUS! BREWING SUSTAINABLY | WIN EPIC PRIZES | 4 DIY RECIPES It’s your devotion to the craft that inspires us to be the best. For over 25 years, family business, Bintani, have built trusted partnerships and friendships with some of Australia and New Zealand’s highest quality producers. The passion and craftsmanship that is required to produce outstanding flavour is what inspires us to source the finest ingredients and that’s why you can trust that our products will shine in your next creation. Visit bintani.com.au for more. bintani.com.au R E T T If the return of warmer weather wasn’t reason E L enough for celebration, we are, for the first time in S a year and half, actually running a What’s On page R’ O this Spring as we’re confident the days of last minute, T I heart-breaking beer event cancellations are behind us. D WE ENCOURAGE And while that by no means indicates the shit show that has E RESPONSIBLE DRINKING transpired in the intervening time is over, it is reflective of the human capacity for Get the facts DrinkWise.org.au resilience and the desire to just get out and make the most of this one life we lead. So in the coming months of Spring, beer lovers can get out and about and attend a PUBLISHED BY multitude of events as the likes of the Australian National Homebrewing Conference Food and Beverage Media (see main story page 56) and Oktoberfest celebrations nationwide all re-emerge from 41 Bridge Road GLEBE NSW Australia 2037 Tel: 02 9660 2113 Fax: 02 9660 4419 long COVID hibernations. Hats off to the people behind such events, for ploughing on PUBLISHER and providing some much-needed normality back into all our lives, and here’s hoping Paul Wootton | [email protected] plenty of you can get out and repay the favour. EDITOR Keeping with the season, we’re welcoming a return to lighter drinking styles this issue Gifford Lee | [email protected] HOMEBREWER EDITOR by looking at the enduring popularity of the Australian-style pale ale that continues to Jake Brandish | [email protected] sell volume, and attract new palates, despite the heavy onslaught by more de rigueur EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTORS beers. In our feature from page 8, brewers Jayne Lewis, Paul Holgate, Ryan Nobbs and Pat Briony Liebich, Jono Outred, Steve Brockman, Adam Carswell Keeble all discuss the style’s place in our beer culture and how it has been shaped, and in NATIONAL SALES MANAGERS turn evolved, to remain meaningful and a benchmark beer for many a brewery. Joanne Davies – [email protected] Lachlan Oakley – [email protected] And somewhat continuing that theme on the pale ale’s evolution, brewer Steve GENERAL MANAGER SALES – LIQUOR & HOSPITALITY GROUP Brockman deep dives (page 24) into mastering the mid-strength. The circa 3.5% beer, Shane T. Williams especially in the pale ale category, has become a giant segment of the industry here GROUP ART DIRECTOR – LIQUOR AND HOSPITALITY in Australia as many craft breweries nail the category – offering fullness and flavour Kea Thorburn | [email protected] PRODUCTION MANAGER when before there was not much of either. Thanks to Steve’s tips, you can have a Jacqui Cooper | [email protected] decent crack at making a good one for yourself. SUBSCRIPTIONS Briony Liebich also charges you with good-to-have skills as she nose dives into our Tel: 1800 651 422 | Fax: +61 2 8580 6312 sense of smell (page 20) and how it is vital to the overall sensory experience of beer. [email protected] | www.shop.beerandbrewer.com Mail: PO Box 55 Glebe NSW 2037 Briony is also part of our tasting panel this issue (page 58) as we make our way through SUBSCRIPTION RATE 137 craft beer releases – a record number of reviews in our 15-plus year history. Australia $79.95 3 years (12 issues) savings $39.41 (33%) You’ll find plenty more besides all that and I hope you enjoy reading it. See you $54.99 2 years (8 issues) saving $24.61 (31%) $29.99 1 year (4 issues) saving $9.81 (25%) again in Summer. New Zealand $88.99 3 years (12 issues) saving $30.41 (25%) $60.99 2 years (8 issues) saving $18.61 (23%) Cheers, $32.99 1 year (4 issues) saving $6.81 (17%) Gifford Lee International $132.99 3 years (12 issues) $89.99 2 years (8 issues) Editor, Beer & Brewer $47.99 1 year (4 issues) [email protected] Rate in AUD and incl. 10% GST for Australia, @beerandbrewer excluding GST for NZ and International PRINTING The Intermedia Group’s IVE, Sydney Environmental Responsibility DISTRIBUTION D&D Mailing, Are Direct (Aus), Gordon & Gotch (NZ), ISSN 1834 5115 The Intermedia Group takes its Corporate and Social Responsibilities seriously and is committed to reducing its impact on the environment. We continuously strive to improve DISCLAIMER our environmental performance and to initiate additional CSR based projects and activities. This publication is published by Food and Beverage Media (the “Publisher”). Materials in this publication have been created by a variety of different entities and, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher accepts As part of our company policy we ensure that the products and services used in the no liability for materials created by others. All materials should be considered protected by Australian and international intellectual property laws. Unless you are authorised by law or the copyright owner to do so, you manufacture of this magazine are sourced from environmentally responsible suppliers. may not copy any of the materials. The mention of a product or service, person or company in this publication does not indicate the Publisher’s endorsement. 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All express or implied terms, conditions, warranties, statements, assurances and representations in relation to the Publisher, PEFC certified wood and paper products come from environmentally appropriate, socially its publications and its services are expressly excluded save for those conditions and warranties which must be implied under the laws of any State of Australia or the provisions of Division 2 of Part V of the Trade Practices beneficial and economically viable management of forests. Act 1974 and any statutory modification or re-enactment thereof. To the extent permitted by law, the Publisher will not be liable for any damages including special, exemplary, punitive or consequential damages (including but The wrapping used in the delivery process of this magazine is 100% biodegradable. not limited to economic loss or loss of profit or revenue or loss of opportunity) or indirect loss or damage of any kind arising in contract, tort or otherwise, even if advised of the possibility of such loss of profits or damages. While we use our best endeavours to ensure accuracy of the materials we create, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher excludes all liability for loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false or misleading statements that may appear in this publication. Copyright © 2022 - Food and Beverage Media Find us on... Spring 2022 3 C O N inside... T E N T S Spring 2022 FEATURES 36 8 Not paling in comparison The Aussie pale ale clings on as rivals approach 28 Hopping forward Pushing beer’s boundaries with advanced hop products 36 Treading softly Breweries taking action on sustainability REGULARS 18 Style shoot Pale ales 20 Senses Working Overtime Sensory analyst Briony Liebich nose dives into our sense of smell 24 The Deep Dive Brewer Steve Brockman’s tips for mastering the mid-strength 58 The Brew Review 137 craft releases with a focus on Aussie pales HOMEBREWER 46 Editor’s letters 48 Q&A with John Palmer Sparkling ale 50 Jake’s Brew Log “Our gas and electricity bills are one-tenth Pacific ale 52 Seasonal focus of what a similar sized brewery Australian pale ale 55 S how us Yours here in town is,” Reader’s home brewing set-ups 57 R ecipe Scott Shomer, Helios Brewing A classic Aussie pale ale 4 www.beerandbrewer.com A clear improvement to rapid carbonation Alfa Laval craft brewery centrifuges with ProCarb inline carbonation High-quality carbonation can be time-consuming, adding stress to your production schedule. By integrating carbonation with clarification, we’ve created a groundbreak- ing solution. What used to take days is done in a couple of hours. Now, you can boost efficiency while staying true to the craft. Alfa Laval’s centrifugal separators maximize product recovery, while securing the qual- ity and character of your beer. By adding CO during centrifugation, ProCarb readily 2 dissolves the gas into tiny bubbles throughout the liquid. Giving you clarified beer with nothing added but tight, stable carbonation. You can rely on Alfa Laval’s proven technology to promote quality and sustainability in your brewery, no matter the size. Oxygen pick-up is eliminated in the centrifuge. And thanks to exceptional energy-efficiency, environmental impact is kept at a minimum. Contact Alfa Laval Australia to find out more. alfalaval.com.au WHAT’S ON Things to do in Spring PENINSULA VINEHOP FESTIVAL Mornington Peninsula VIC: November 12 & 13 Celebrating and showcasing the craft beer, cool-climate wines, cider and spirits produced on the Mornington Peninsula, this year’s VineHop takes place across two days in November. VineHop Saturday features eight MP venues and celebrates around 30 wine, spirit, spritzer, craft beer and cider brands. Festival- goers travel by bus between venues and enjoy tastings, live music or DJs and food trucks at each location. Then, coupled with 20-plus craft beverage bars and food trucks, makers market and plenty of kid’s entertainment and activities, VineHop Sunday Sesh, held at The Briars in Mount Martha, will be a fun, memorable day out with family or friends. vinehopfestival.com.au PLUS DON’T MISS GOLD COAST BEER & CIDER FESTIVAL Kangaroo Valley Craft Beer & BBQ Broadwater Parklands, Southport September 17 & 18 The Friendly Inn QLD: October 22 kvbbq.com.au After being rudely interrupted last year by the pandemic, the inaugural Oktoberfest at Hofbräuhaus Gold Coast Beer & Cider Festival September 17 – 29 Melbourne will now take place on Saturday 22 hofbrauhaus.com.au October. The festival will be staged in the Broadwater Parklands between Oktoberfest in the Gardens 11am and 5pm, with over 40 premium craft beer and cider producers and Various locations and dates in October five distilleries expected to participate. oktoberfestinthegardens.com.au The festival is being organised by the Schwartz Family Company, which has Australian National operated the Canberra Craft Beer & Homebrewing Conference Cider Festival for over a decade, and the Hunter Valley Wine & Beer Festival. Tickets will cost October 14 & 15 Melbourne $20 per person for online pre-festival bookings or $30 per person on the day (under-18s are anhc.com.au free), giving access to a wide range of premium local and interstate craft breweries, gourmet food vendors, live music, and other festival activities. Individual tastings will be from $2 per (see our story on page 56 for more details) 100ml tasting. The family-friendly atmosphere will include free activities for children. Bitter & Twisted gcbeerciderfestival.com.au November 5 & 6 Maitland Gaol bitterandtwisted.com.au 6 www.beerandbrewer.com PROCESSING / FILLING / LABELLING / PACKAGING & MORE SPECIALISTS IN THE PROCESS Viniquip is one of Australasia’s leading importers and distributors of brewing, distilling, bottling, canning and packaging equipment for the beer, cider and spirits industry. Established in 1991, our team has the experience, knowledge and right solution for all your needs. CALL US NOW FOR YOUR FREE QUOTATION Viniquip are proud to represent and be associated with these brands VINIQUIP.COM Australia Freephone New Zealand Freephone Email 1-800 209 370 0800 284 647 [email protected] AUSSIE PALE ALES Not paling in comparison THE MODERN AUSTRALIAN PALE ALE HAS BEEN SHAPED BY DECADES OF INNOVATION AND CULTURE, BOTH ON A COMMERCIAL AND CRAFT SCALE. FROM CULT-LIKE INTERPRETATIONS, THAT HAVE WELL AND TRULY STOOD THE TEST OF TIME, TO THE FRESHEST OF ITERATIONS BOASTING IN VOGUE “JUICY” OR “HAZY” CHARACTERISTICS, THE HUMBLE PALE ALE HAS NOT ONLY EVOLVED BUT HAS HELPED SHAPE WHAT ALL MODERN AUSTRALIAN BEERS LOOK LIKE. BY JONO OUTRED 8 www.beerandbrewer.com AUSSIE PALE ALES T he Australian pale ale has become somewhat iconic throughout its history. From some of the original Australian craft breweries of the late 80s and early 90s, the uncomplicated Aussie pale has been a catalyst in many ways. From beer styles and pale ale derivatives, through to the brewers and breweries who brewed them, this once simple style has had immeasurable influence on the current Australian beer landscape and identity. Today, you would be hard-pressed to find a brewer in Australia who hasn’t brewed or isn’t at least familiar with the style. Although there are perhaps fewer pale ales today in lieu of haze bombs, fruited sours and the like, many modern styles have their roots in pale ale, not least the obvious sub-styles like the popular XPA and hazy pale ale. The Australian pale ale has without a doubt stood the test of time and has moved with the ebbs and flows of the craft beer industry. But with modern interpretations and sub-styles emerging, and subsequently sustaining its popularity, it seems the humble Aussie pale has plenty more strings to its bow as we move into the future. Spring 2022 9 AUSSIE PALE ALES “Other styles have come and gone but the Australian pale seems like it will last forever. The people buying it might change, but the volume of those buying it doesn’t,” Jayne Lewis, Two Birds Brewing THE BEGINNINGS “Whether it’s a lager in most markets, or craft world can boast such a diverse, multi- The Australian pale ale has long been a staple wheat beer in Germany – pale ales in Australia faceted identity among both drinkers and in the local craft drinker’s diet and whether fit the same spot, where consumers want to brewers alike and the pale ale, despite all it they’re a current fan or not, it’s likely where drink something not too taxing on the palate has done already, has many more tricks up most really started to develop their taste for or hip-pocket, so there is always going to be its sleeve. a simple, climate appropriate beer but with demand for that style of beer, I think there is BREWING THE MODERN VERSION flavour. For many, once the likes of light always going to be a market for that.” lagers had been explored, it was common Jayne Lewis is another early adopter of Despite its long, celebrated history as a staple in the 2000s to move onto something the Australian pale, having co-founded of local brewing, the Australian pale finds with a little more character, perhaps Little Melbourne’s Two Birds Brewing in 2011. The itself at the forefront of contemporary craft Creatures’ Pale Ale, James Squire’s 150 Lashes style has featured within their product range beer. Where many iterations have stood the or Coopers’ Pale Ale, for example. in one way or another over the last 11 years test of time and offer consumers a safe and One of those, and celebrating its 21st and Jayne believes it hasn’t had to change repeatable product, many brewers are looking birthday this year, is Holgate Brewhouse’s Mt too much over, instead becoming a local craft to this style as a firm footing for more Macedon Pale Ale. beer staple. adventurous offerings, too. Holgate have released many pales and “I don’t think the pale ale has changed too Although it should be noted that many pale ale derivatives since founding in 1999 to much, to be honest. I think it’s a bit of a classically styled pales are certainly not much acclaim, but that original Mt Macedon stalwart in Australian beer and they do still dull, brewers have found ways to elevate the recipe still stands strong within their core exist, it’s still a healthy category. Other styles simple style into something that walks a fine range offering. have come and gone but the Australian pale line of offering consumers an approachable “We haven’t chased trends and evolved the seems like it will last forever. The people product, while also standing out amongst style (with this one). It’s a well-balanced, lower buying it might change, but the volume of the highly varied shelves and taps of craft ABV pale with good hop character, but not too those buying it doesn’t.” beer establishments. One such brewery is bitter or resinous, and using traditional hops For many, the pale ale is merely a gateway Western Australia’s Cheeky Monkey Brewery, such as Cascade that make it an easy-drinking beer for bigger things and for others it’s their who have been brewing a hugely successful, crowd-pleaser,” co-founder Paul Holgate said, regular go-to. But for brewers, it’s a catalyst multi-award winning XPA since 2021. who believes staying true to its original style for expansion, brand recognition, quality and Their head of brewing operations Ryan has helped to sustain its success. innovation. Not many other beers within the Nobbs believes the pale ale has remained a 10 www.beerandbrewer.com

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