Basics Fashion Design 02 Textiles and Fashion PDF
Preview Basics Fashion Design 02 Textiles and Fashion
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000000999999000000999999______ 999999//////222222444448//////000000999999 999993::::::333334222223 PPPPPPMMMMMM PPPPPPaaaaaaggggggeeeeee 111111 BBBBBAAAAASSSSSIIIIICCCCCSSSSS BBBBBAAAAASSSSSIIIIICCCCCSSSSS PPPPPuuuuubbbbbllllliiiiissssshhhhheeeeerrrrr’’’’’sssss nnnnnooooottttteeeee FFFFFAAAAASSSSSHHHHHIIIIIOOOOONNNNN DDDDDEEEEESSSSSIIIIIGGGGGNNNNN FFFFFAAAAASSSSSHHHHHIIIIIOOOOONNNNN DDDDDEEEEESSSSSIIIIIGGGGGNNNNN JJJJJeeeeennnnnnnnnnyyyyy UUUUUdddddaaaaallllleeeee 0000022222 0000022222 EEEEEttttthhhhhiiiiicccccaaaaalllll ppppprrrrraaaaaccccctttttiiiiiccccceeeee iiiiisssss wwwwweeeeellllllllll kkkkknnnnnooooowwwwwnnnnn,,,,, tttttaaaaauuuuuggggghhhhhttttt FFFFFeeeeeaaaaatttttuuuuurrrrreeeeeddddd tttttooooopppppiiiiicccccsssss TTTTThhhhheeeee BBBBBaaaaasssssiiiiicccccsssss FFFFFaaaaassssshhhhhiiiiiooooonnnnn DDDDDeeeeesssssiiiiigggggnnnnn JJJJJBBBBB JJJJJeeeeennnnnnnnnnyyyyy UUUUUdddddaaaaallllleeeeessssstttttuuuuudddddiiiiieeeeeddddd BBBBBAAAAA FFFFFaaaaassssshhhhhiiiiiooooonnnnn 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cccccuuuuurrrrrrrrrreeeeennnnntttttlllllyyyyy cccccooooommmmmppppprrrrriiiiissssseeeeesssss ny Uny Uny Uny Uny Uics FFics FFics FFics FFics FF TTTTTEEEEEXXXXXTTTTTIIIIILLLLLEEEEESSSSS aaaaannnnnddddd MMMMMAAAAA WWWWWooooommmmmeeeeennnnnssssswwwwweeeeeaaaaarrrrr DDDDDeeeeesssssiiiiigggggnnnnn,,,,, wwwwwiiiiittttthhhhh bbbbbuuuuuttttt wwwwwaaaaasssss,,,,, uuuuunnnnntttttiiiiilllll rrrrreeeeeccccceeeeennnnntttttlllllyyyyy,,,,, rrrrraaaaarrrrreeeeelllllyyyyy fffffuuuuutttttuuuuurrrrreeeee fffffaaaaabbbbbrrrrriiiiicccccsssss aaaaa cccccooooolllllllllleeeeeccccctttttiiiiiooooonnnnn ooooofffff fffffiiiiivvvvveeeee tttttiiiiitttttllllleeeeesssss,,,,, iiiiinnnnncccccllllluuuuudddddiiiiinnnnnggggg dddddaaaaaaaaaa aaaaa fffffooooocccccuuuuusssss ooooonnnnn iiiiinnnnnnnnnnooooovvvvvaaaaatttttiiiiivvvvveeeee ppppprrrrriiiiinnnnnttttteeeeeddddd ttttteeeeexxxxxtttttiiiiillllleeeeesssss,,,,, dddddiiiiissssscccccuuuuusssssssssseeeeeddddd iiiiinnnnn ttttteeeeerrrrrmmmmmsssss ooooofffff ttttthhhhheeeee 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JJJJJeeeeennnnnnnnnnyyyyy tttttyyyyypppppeeeeesssss ooooofffff yyyyyaaaaarrrrrnnnnn ioioioioioioioioioio VVVVViiiiisssssuuuuuaaaaalllll AAAAArrrrrtttttsssss..... YYYYYeeeeettttt dddddeeeeesssssiiiiigggggnnnnn iiiiisssss bbbbbeeeeecccccooooommmmmiiiiinnnnnggggg fffffiiiiinnnnniiiiissssshhhhhiiiiinnnnnggggg ppppprrrrroooooccccceeeeesssssssssseeeeesssss DDDDDeeeeevvvvveeeeelllllooooopppppiiiiinnnnnggggg aaaaa CCCCCooooolllllllllleeeeeccccctttttiiiiiooooonnnnn aaaaannnnnddddd nnnnnnnnnn AAAAANNNNNDDDDD FFFFFAAAAASSSSSHHHHHIIIIIOOOOONNNNN sssssuuuuucccccccccceeeeessssssssssfffffuuuuullllllllllyyyyy lllllaaaaauuuuunnnnnccccchhhhheeeeeddddd hhhhheeeeerrrrr ooooowwwwwnnnnn aaaaannnnn iiiiinnnnncccccrrrrreeeeeaaaaasssssiiiiinnnnnggggglllllyyyyy iiiiinnnnnttttteeeeegggggrrrrraaaaalllll pppppaaaaarrrrrttttt ooooofffff wwwwweeeeeaaaaavvvvveeeee FFFFFaaaaassssshhhhhiiiiiooooonnnnn DDDDDrrrrraaaaawwwwwiiiiinnnnnggggg..... D D D D D D D D D D wwwwwooooommmmmeeeeennnnnssssswwwwweeeeeaaaaarrrrr lllllaaaaabbbbbeeeeelllll aaaaafffffttttteeeeerrrrr gggggrrrrraaaaaddddduuuuuaaaaatttttiiiiiooooonnnnn eeeeeeeeee ooooouuuuurrrrr eeeeevvvvveeeeerrrrryyyyydddddaaaaayyyyy llllliiiiivvvvveeeeesssss aaaaannnnnddddd iiiiitttttsssss iiiiinnnnnfffffllllluuuuueeeeennnnnccccceeeee kkkkknnnnniiiiittttt ssssssssss aaaaannnnnddddd wwwwweeeeennnnnttttt ooooonnnnn tttttooooo dddddeeeeesssssiiiiigggggnnnnn ppppprrrrriiiiinnnnnttttteeeeeddddd ooooottttthhhhheeeeerrrrr fffffooooorrrrrmmmmmsssss ooooofffff cccccooooonnnnnssssstttttrrrrruuuuuccccctttttiiiiiooooonnnnn TTTTThhhhheeeeessssseeeee bbbbbooooooooookkkkksssss oooooffffffffffeeeeerrrrr aaaaannnnn eeeeesssssssssseeeeennnnntttttiiiiiaaaaalllll igigigigigigigigigig ooooonnnnn ooooouuuuurrrrr sssssoooooccccciiiiieeeeetttttyyyyy eeeeevvvvveeeeerrrrr-----mmmmmooooorrrrreeeee ppppprrrrreeeeevvvvvaaaaallllleeeeennnnnttttt..... nnnnnnnnnn ttttteeeeexxxxxtttttiiiiillllleeeeesssss fffffooooorrrrr BBBBBeeeeellllllllllaaaaa FFFFFrrrrreeeeeuuuuuddddd,,,,, AAAAAlllllbbbbbeeeeerrrrr EEEEElllllbbbbbaaaaazzzzz,,,,, ppppprrrrriiiiinnnnnttttt iiiiinnnnntttttrrrrroooooddddduuuuuccccctttttiiiiiooooonnnnn tttttooooo ttttthhhhheeeee sssssuuuuubbbbbjjjjjeeeeecccccttttt aaaaannnnnddddd 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 eeeeemmmmmbbbbbrrrrroooooiiiiidddddeeeeerrrrryyyyy aaaaannnnnddddd fffffaaaaabbbbbrrrrriiiiiccccc mmmmmaaaaannnnniiiiipppppuuuuulllllaaaaatttttiiiiiooooonnnnn 2222222222 OOOOOwwwwweeeeennnnn GGGGGaaaaasssssttttteeeeerrrrr aaaaannnnnddddd WWWWWiiiiillllldddddllllliiiiifffffeeeeewwwwwooooorrrrrkkkkksssss..... AAAAAVVVVVAAAAA PPPPPuuuuubbbbbllllliiiiissssshhhhhiiiiinnnnnggggg bbbbbeeeeellllliiiiieeeeevvvvveeeeesssss ttttthhhhhaaaaattttt ooooouuuuurrrrr fffffooooorrrrrmmmmm aaaaa cccccooooommmmmppppprrrrreeeeehhhhheeeeennnnnsssssiiiiivvvvveeeee rrrrreeeeefffffeeeeerrrrreeeeennnnnccccceeeee eeeeemmmmmbbbbbeeeeelllllllllliiiiissssshhhhhmmmmmeeeeennnnnttttt wwwwwooooorrrrrlllllddddd nnnnneeeeeeeeeedddddsssss iiiiinnnnnttttteeeeegggggrrrrriiiiitttttyyyyy;;;;; ttttthhhhhaaaaattttt ttttthhhhheeeee cccccooooolllllooooouuuuurrrrr fffffooooorrrrr ssssstttttuuuuudddddeeeeennnnntttttsssss ooooofffff fffffaaaaassssshhhhhiiiiiooooonnnnn dddddeeeeesssssiiiiigggggnnnnn aaaaannnnnddddd CCCCCuuuuurrrrrrrrrreeeeennnnntttttlllllyyyyy aaaaa fffffrrrrreeeeeeeeeelllllaaaaannnnnccccceeeee ttttteeeeexxxxxtttttiiiiillllleeeee aaaaannnnnddddd rrrrraaaaammmmmiiiiifffffiiiiicccccaaaaatttttiiiiiooooonnnnnsssss ooooofffff ooooouuuuurrrrr aaaaaccccctttttiiiiiooooonnnnnsssss uuuuupppppooooonnnnn tttttrrrrreeeeennnnnddddd ppppprrrrreeeeedddddiiiiiccccctttttiiiiiooooonnnnn pppppeeeeeooooopppppllllleeeee wwwwwiiiiittttthhhhh aaaaannnnn iiiiinnnnnttttteeeeerrrrreeeeesssssttttt iiiiinnnnn fffffaaaaassssshhhhhiiiiiooooonnnnn..... wwwwwooooommmmmeeeeennnnnssssswwwwweeeeeaaaaarrrrr dddddeeeeesssssiiiiigggggnnnnneeeeerrrrr,,,,, JJJJJeeeeennnnnnnnnnyyyyy hhhhhaaaaasssss ccccchhhhhoooooooooosssssiiiiinnnnnggggg fffffaaaaabbbbbrrrrriiiiicccccsssss fffffooooorrrrr fffffaaaaassssshhhhhiiiiiooooonnnnn dddddeeeeesssssiiiiigggggnnnnn ooooottttthhhhheeeeerrrrrsssss ssssshhhhhooooouuuuulllllddddd bbbbbeeeee fffffooooorrrrr ttttthhhhheeeee gggggrrrrreeeeeaaaaattttteeeeesssssttttt aaaaannnnn iiiiinnnnnttttteeeeerrrrreeeeesssssttttt iiiiinnnnn fffffuuuuutttttuuuuurrrrreeeee ttttteeeeexxxxxtttttiiiiillllleeeeesssss iiiiinnnnnfffffooooorrrrrmmmmmeeeeeddddd gggggaaaaarrrrrmmmmmeeeeennnnnttttt cccccooooonnnnnssssstttttrrrrruuuuuccccctttttiiiiiooooonnnnn AAAAAsssss aaaaa fffffaaaaassssshhhhhiiiiiooooonnnnn dddddeeeeesssssiiiiigggggnnnnneeeeerrrrr yyyyyooooouuuuu mmmmmuuuuusssssttttt hhhhhaaaaappppppppppiiiiinnnnneeeeessssssssss aaaaannnnnddddd bbbbbeeeeennnnneeeeefffffiiiiittttt ooooofffff ttttthhhhheeeee gggggrrrrreeeeeaaaaattttteeeeesssssttttt jjjjjooooobbbbbsssss iiiiinnnnn ttttthhhhheeeee iiiiinnnnnddddduuuuussssstttttrrrrryyyyy nnnnn nnnnn bbbbbyyyyy eeeeettttthhhhhiiiiicccccaaaaalllll aaaaannnnnddddd ooooorrrrrgggggaaaaannnnniiiiiccccc iiiiissssssssssuuuuueeeeesssss..... SSSSShhhhheeeee hhhhhaaaaavvvvveeeee aaaaannnnn uuuuunnnnndddddeeeeerrrrrssssstttttaaaaannnnndddddiiiiinnnnnggggg ooooofffff fffffaaaaabbbbbrrrrriiiiicccccsssss ttttthhhhheeeee bbbbbrrrrraaaaannnnnccccchhhhh ooooofffff iiiiinnnnnddddduuuuussssstttttrrrrryyyyy aaaaa pppppooooopppppuuuuulllllaaaaarrrrr ooooorrrrr ttttthhhhheeeee lllllaaaaattttteeeeesssssttttt ssssstttttyyyyyllllleeeee nnnnnuuuuummmmmbbbbbeeeeerrrrr..... WWWWWeeeee dddddooooo nnnnnooooottttt ssssseeeeettttt ooooouuuuurrrrrssssseeeeelllllvvvvveeeeesssss hhhhhaaaaasssss llllleeeeeccccctttttuuuuurrrrreeeeeddddd iiiiinnnnn fffffaaaaassssshhhhhiiiiiooooonnnnn aaaaannnnnddddd ttttteeeeexxxxxtttttiiiiillllleeeeesssss FFFFFeeeeeaaaaatttttuuuuurrrrreeeeeddddd cccccooooonnnnntttttrrrrriiiiibbbbbuuuuutttttooooorrrrrsssss aaaaannnnnddddd wwwwwhhhhhaaaaattttt ttttthhhhheeeeeiiiiirrrrr ppppprrrrrooooopppppeeeeerrrrrtttttiiiiieeeeesssss aaaaarrrrreeeee..... TTTTThhhhhiiiiisssss iiiiinnnnnvvvvvooooolllllvvvvveeeeeddddd iiiiinnnnn ttttthhhhheeeee mmmmmaaaaannnnnuuuuufffffaaaaaccccctttttuuuuurrrrreeeee ooooofffff ccccclllllooooottttthhhhhiiiiinnnnnggggg hhhhhaaaaaiiiiirrrrr dddddeeeeecccccooooorrrrraaaaatttttiiiiiooooonnnnn ooooouuuuuttttt aaaaasssss aaaaarrrrrbbbbbiiiiittttteeeeerrrrrsssss ooooofffff wwwwwhhhhhaaaaattttt iiiiisssss ‘‘‘‘‘gggggooooooooooddddd’’’’’ ooooorrrrr AAAAAlllllaaaaabbbbbaaaaammmmmaaaaa CCCCChhhhhaaaaannnnniiiiinnnnn kkkkknnnnnooooowwwwwllllleeeeedddddgggggeeeee wwwwwiiiiillllllllll aaaaallllllllllooooowwwww yyyyyooooouuuuu tttttooooo ccccchhhhhoooooooooossssseeeee ooooofffff ccccclllllooooottttthhhhh ooooorrrrr bbbbbeeeeehhhhhaaaaavvvvviiiiiooooouuuuurrrrr aaaaattttt ttttthhhhheeeee UUUUUnnnnniiiiivvvvveeeeerrrrrsssssiiiiitttttyyyyy ooooofffff BBBBBrrrrriiiiiggggghhhhhtttttooooonnnnn aaaaannnnnddddd ‘‘‘‘‘bbbbbaaaaaddddd’’’’’,,,,, bbbbbuuuuuttttt aaaaaiiiiimmmmm tttttooooo ppppprrrrrooooommmmmooooottttteeeee dddddiiiiissssscccccuuuuussssssssssiiiiiooooonnnnn SSSSSaaaaannnnndddddrrrrraaaaa BBBBBaaaaaccccckkkkkllllluuuuunnnnnddddd KKKKKiiiiinnnnngggggssssstttttooooonnnnn UUUUUnnnnniiiiivvvvveeeeerrrrrsssssiiiiitttttyyyyy,,,,, aaaaannnnnddddd iiiiisssss cccccuuuuurrrrrrrrrreeeeennnnntttttlllllyyyyy ttttthhhhheeeee rrrrriiiiiggggghhhhhttttt fffffaaaaabbbbbrrrrriiiiiccccc fffffooooorrrrr yyyyyooooouuuuurrrrr dddddeeeeesssssiiiiigggggnnnnnsssss..... iiiiinnnnn aaaaannnnn ooooorrrrrgggggaaaaannnnniiiiissssseeeeeddddd fffffaaaaassssshhhhhiiiiiooooonnnnn fffffooooorrrrr aaaaannnnn MMMMMaaaaarrrrrllllloooooeeeeesssss ttttteeeeennnnn BBBBBhhhhhööööömmmmmeeeeerrrrr TTTTT aaaaa llllleeeeeccccctttttuuuuurrrrreeeeerrrrr aaaaattttt ttttthhhhheeeee UUUUUnnnnniiiiivvvvveeeeerrrrrsssssiiiiitttttyyyyy ooooofffff MMMMMiiiiiddddddddddllllleeeeessssseeeeexxxxx JJJJJaaaaassssspppppeeeeerrrrr CCCCChhhhhaaaaadddddppppprrrrraaaaajjjjjooooonnnnnggggg EEEEE iiiiinnnnndddddiiiiivvvvviiiiiddddduuuuuaaaaalllll’’’’’sssss uuuuunnnnndddddeeeeerrrrrssssstttttaaaaannnnndddddiiiiinnnnnggggg ooooofffff ttttthhhhheeeeeiiiiirrrrr DDDDDuuuuunnnnncccccaaaaannnnn CCCCChhhhheeeeeeeeeettttthhhhhaaaaammmmm IIIIIttttt iiiiisssss aaaaalllllsssssooooo iiiiimmmmmpppppooooorrrrrtttttaaaaannnnnttttt tttttooooo bbbbbeeeee aaaaawwwwwaaaaarrrrreeeee XXXXX aaaaannnnnddddd RRRRRaaaaavvvvveeeeennnnnsssssbbbbbooooouuuuurrrrrnnnnneeeee CCCCCooooolllllllllleeeeegggggeeeee ooooofffff ooooowwwwwnnnnn eeeeettttthhhhhiiiiicccccaaaaalllll iiiiinnnnncccccllllliiiiinnnnnaaaaatttttiiiiiooooonnnnn..... EEEEEmmmmmmmmmmaaaaa CCCCCooooooooookkkkk ooooofffff ttttthhhhheeeee vvvvvaaaaarrrrriiiiiooooouuuuusssss ttttteeeeeccccchhhhhnnnnniiiiiqqqqquuuuueeeeesssss ttttthhhhhaaaaattttt cccccaaaaannnnn TTTTT DDDDDeeeeesssssiiiiigggggnnnnn aaaaannnnnddddd CCCCCooooommmmmmmmmmuuuuunnnnniiiiicccccaaaaatttttiiiiiooooonnnnn..... JJJJJeeeeennnnnnnnnnyyyyy RRRRRooooorrrrryyyyy CCCCCrrrrriiiiiccccchhhhhtttttooooonnnnn bbbbbeeeee aaaaappppppppppllllliiiiieeeeeddddd tttttooooo yyyyyooooouuuuurrrrr ccccchhhhhooooossssseeeeennnnn fffffaaaaabbbbbrrrrriiiiiccccc..... 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SSSSSpppppiiiiijjjjjkkkkkeeeeerrrrrsssss eeeeennnnn SSSSSpppppiiiiijjjjjkkkkkeeeeerrrrrsssss vvvvvaaaaarrrrriiiiieeeeeddddd eeeeexxxxxaaaaammmmmpppppllllleeeeesssss ooooofffff wwwwwooooorrrrrkkkkk bbbbbyyyyy tttttaaaaallllleeeeennnnnttttteeeeeddddd HHHHH JJJJJaaaaammmmmeeeeesssss SSSSStttttooooonnnnneeeee cccccooooonnnnnttttteeeeemmmmmpppppooooorrrrraaaaarrrrryyyyy dddddeeeeesssssiiiiigggggnnnnneeeeerrrrrsssss aaaaannnnnddddd ooooottttthhhhheeeeerrrrr IOIOIOIOIO JJJJJaaaaannnnn TTTTTaaaaammmmmiiiiinnnnniiiiiaaaaauuuuu TTTTTiiiiimmmmmooooorrrrrooooouuuuusssss BBBBBeeeeeaaaaassssstttttiiiiieeeeesssss cccccrrrrreeeeeaaaaatttttiiiiivvvvveeeee pppppeeeeeooooopppppllllleeeee wwwwwhhhhhooooo wwwwwooooorrrrrkkkkk iiiiinnnnn ttttthhhhheeeee NNNNN MMMMMaaaaannnnneeeeelllll TTTTTooooorrrrrrrrrreeeeesssss fffffaaaaassssshhhhhiiiiiooooonnnnn iiiiinnnnnddddduuuuussssstttttrrrrryyyyy..... TTTTThhhhhiiiiisssss bbbbbooooooooookkkkk wwwwwiiiiillllllllll bbbbbooooottttthhhhh CCCCClllllaaaaarrrrreeeee TTTTTooooouuuuuggggghhhhh iiiiinnnnnfffffooooorrrrrmmmmm aaaaannnnnddddd iiiiinnnnnssssspppppiiiiirrrrreeeee yyyyyooooouuuuu..... CCCCChhhhhrrrrriiiiissssstttttiiiiiaaaaannnnn WWWWWiiiiijjjjjnnnnnaaaaannnnntttttsssss WWWWWiiiiillllldddddllllliiiiifffffeeeeewwwwwooooorrrrrkkkkksssss ISBN-13: 978-2-940373-64-2 aaaaavvvvvaaaaa pppppuuuuubbbbbllllliiiiissssshhhhhiiiiinnnnnggggg sssssaaaaa sssssaaaaallllleeeeesssss@@@@@aaaaavvvvvaaaaabbbbbooooooooookkkkksssss.....ccccchhhhh wwwwwwwwwwwwwww.....aaaaavvvvvaaaaabbbbbooooooooookkkkksssss.....ccccchhhhh £19.95 AAAAAVVVVVAAAAA•••••BBBBBaaaaasssssiiiiicccccsssss FFFFFaaaaassssshhhhhiiiiiooooonnnnn DDDDDeeeeesssssiiiiigggggnnnnn:::::TTTTTeeeeexxxxxtttttiiiiillllleeeee &&&&& FFFFFaaaaassssshhhhhiiiiiooooonnnnn SSIIFF AAVVAABBFF22 CChhpptt11 0088..0022__..qqxxdd 99//2244//0099 1100::1027 PPMM PPaaggee 11 BASICS FASHION DESIGN Jenny Udale 02 TEXTILES AND FASHION AAVVAA••BBaassiiccss FFaasshhiioonn DDeessiiggnn::TTeexxttiillee && FFaasshhiioonn CCDD990099--119999//44223344 44TTHH PPrrooooff SSIIFF AAVVAABBFF22 CChhpptt11 0088..0022__..qqxxdd 39//1286//0099 110::3588 PAMM PPaaggee 22 An AVA Book Published by AVA Publishing SA Rue des Fontenailles 16 Case Postale 1000 Lausanne 6 Switzerland Tel: +41 786 005 109 Email: [email protected] Distributed by Thames & Hudson (ex-North America) 181a High Holborn London WC1V 7QX United Kingdom Tel: +44 20 7845 5000 Fax: +44 20 7845 5055 Email: [email protected] www.thamesandhudson.com Distributed in the USA & Canada by: Ingram Publisher Services Inc. 1 Ingram Blvd. La Vergne TN 37086 USA Tel: +1 866 400 5351 Fax: +1 800 838 1149 Email: [email protected] English Language Support Office AVA Publishing (UK) Ltd. Tel: +44 1903 204 455 Email: [email protected] Copyright © AVA Publishing SA 2008 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without permission of the copyright holder. ISBN 978-2-940373-64-2 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 Design by Sifer Design Cover image courtesy of Daniela Bomba Production by AVA Book Production Pte. Ltd., Singapore Tel: +65 6334 8173 Fax: +65 6259 9830 Email: [email protected] All reasonable attempts have been made to trace, clear and credit the copyright holders of the images reproduced in this book. However, if any credits have been inadvertently omitted, the publisher will endeavour to incorporate amendments in future editions. AAVVAA••BBaassiiccss FFaasshhiioonn DDeessiiggnn::TTeexxttiillee && FFaasshhiioonn CCDD1910098-2-9028_ /4 4223575 3rd 5Ptrho opfroof SSIIFF AAVVAABBFF22 CChhpptt11 0088..0022__..qqxxdd 32//1188//0098 190::1588 PAMM PPaaggee 33 2 / 3 ‘Fashions fade, style is eternal.’ Yves Saint Laurent 1 Louise Henriksen design. AAVVAA••BBaassiiccss FFaasshhiioonn DDeessiiggnn::TTeexxttiillee && FFaasshhiioonn CD2D0380-84-29 5/ 4/ 1452039 2nd Proof SSIIFF AAVVAABBFF22 CChhpptt11 0088..0022__..qqxxdd 52//2168//0098 192::1280 PPMM PPaaggee 44 Contents Introduction 6 How to get the most out of this book 8 The textile sample 10 Fibres 40 Fabric construction 68 Researching textiles 12 Natural 42 Weave 70 Designing textiles 24 Man-made 48 Knit 76 Textiles into production 32 Yarn 54 Other forms of construction 84 Future fabrics 36 Dyeing 56 Finishing processes 64 n o hi s a F d n a s e xtil e T AAVVAA••BBaassiiccss FFaasshhiioonn DDeessiiggnn::TTeexxttiillee && FFaasshhiioonn CD2D0580-94-21 1/ 34 1/ 530184 SSIIFF AAVVAABBFF22 CChhpptt11 0088..0022__..qqxxdd 59//2269//0099 152::5212 PPMM PPaaggee 55 4 / 5 Textiles used in Surface treatments 88 Colour and trends 110 fashion design 128 Print 90 Colour 112 Choosing fabrics for fashion design 130 Embroidery and fabric Trend prediction 120 manipulation 100 Designing with textiles 140 Embellishment 108 Garment construction 142 How will you work? 154 Conclusion 160 Glossary 162 Bibliography 164 Useful resources and Canon 166–175 s Acknowledgements and picture credits 176 nt e Working with ethics 177 ont C AAVVAA••BBaassiiccss FFaasshhiioonn DDeessiiggnn::TTeexxttiillee && FFaasshhiioonn CCDD590099--121038 // 34128545 SSIIFF AAVVAABBFF22 CChhpptt11 0088..0022__..qqxxdd 32//1188//0098 190::1588 PAMM PPaaggee 66 AAVVAA••BBaassiiccss FFaasshhiioonn DDeessiiggnn::TTeexxttiillee && FFaasshhiioonn CD2D0380-84-29 5/ 4/ 1452039 2nd Proof SSIIFF AAVVAABBFF22 CChhpptt11 0088..0022__..qqxxdd 34//148//0089 21:02:05 8P MA M P aPgaeg e7 7 Introduction 6 / 7 1 A design from Sandra Backlund’s Ink Blot Test ‘Working on fabrics, colour and inspiration, garments collection. go hand in hand at the beginning of a season as each one inspires the other.’ Michele Manz, senior director of womenswear for Converse by John Varvatos This book is for the textile designer who is interested in the integration of textile design with fashion and also the fashion designer who wants to fully integrate garment design with textiles. Designers who will consider how the scale of a design will work on the body, how the fabric will function on the body through drape or structure, and how the fabric will be cut and finished will benefit enormously from reading this book. The book endeavours to cover all the things you need to know about fashion textiles. It begins with a brief history of textiles, showing the links with technical innovation and social developments. It then focuses on the processes of textile design, including the ethical and sustainable issues around textiles today. The book also provides practical information on fibre production, dyeing and finishing techniques. Also examined is how a fibre becomes a fabric through construction techniques, for example, weave and knit, and other more innovative processes. The book continues by looking at the surface treatment of textiles including print, embroidery and embellishment, and then focuses on the way colour and trend can influence textiles and fashion. The final section gives practical information on the use of textiles within fashion design, how to choose, cut and sew fabrics. Additionally, there is a very important section on fashion and textile designers who work in the industry, exploring what they do and how they use textiles within their work. All the text in this book is underpinned with visual examples of fashion and textiles from designers who create wonderful textiles. I hope their work will inspire you and that you gain a n 1 great deal of pleasure from this book. ctio u d o ntr I AAVVAA••BBaassiiccss FFaasshhiioonn DDeessiiggnn::TTeexxttiillee && FFaasshhiioonn CCDD440088--1199 // 44223399 33rrdd PPrrooooff SSIIFF AAVVAABBFF22 CChhpptt11 0088..0022__..qqxxdd 33//1280//0098 14::3185 PPMM PPaaggee 88 How to get the most out of this book This book introduces different aspects of textiles and fashion via dedicated chapters for each topic. Each chapter provides numerous examples of work by leading fashion designers, annotated to explain the reasons behind choices made. Key textiles and fashion principles are isolated so that the reader can see how they are applied in practice. Clear navigation Each chapter has a clear heading to allow readers to quickly locate areas of interest. The textile sample 24 / 25 DDeessiiggnniinngg tteexxttiilleess RReennddeerriinngg ddeessiiggnnss 2 1 Example of a mood board. The next step is to collate the research that you have gathered. You now need to think about what 2–3 Etexcahmnipqluese so.f drawing Torh iost hgeart hseoruinrcge osf oinf fionrsmpiaratitvioe nt ecxatnile bs efr oinm th cel afossrmic toef xmtileoso,d c buoltuarrdess or ybmoeouss ta t troaep gtproyro ianpbgro iatuotet d imte. seDidgenitue marmn tdion hirnoegnw dtheer ssktoertyc hthbaoto wksill tdheavt edloopc uinmtoe ndte tshigen r eidseeaasrc. hIt aisn dim cproearttaen lti ntkos t htoe nfo frinmd a ywao hsueortf htdweeras riigte’sn p spa aicnpk ieasrg ,v epe.a rWyin iotm,r kpp eoonrutcati nlwst ,hoart ap hwoatoyg troa pehxpy,r eosr sm yaoyubr ed CesAigDn widoeraks. Itth isro wugishe dtora awlsinog c, ocnosllaidgeer, the iBlse eararenrq iunnie rmewdi n sadkn iltdlsh aifnot rwy othhuae t m dtiiemgsheigt nfnrsae meydoe u.to sinuitrifaallcye a ynodu t haeren gdoeivnegl otop dinetosi gcnlo tohn :a nwdil l kynoiut, sotra wrt iltl oy owuo srkta ortn t op awpoerrk aerxep ecrriemaetinntg .a nAdlw eanyjso yre tmhee mprboecre tsos. directly with material? As you design you must understand the basic textile design principles of scale, texture, colour, pattern, repeat, placement and weight. Consider how these principles work within a sample and how these samples work together as ranges, as well as how your designs will result in functional, inspirational or Drawing commercial textiles suitable for use within contemporary fashion design and garment construction. Being able to communicate your ideas through drawing is fundamental to most design disciplines. However, it is possible to also use other media such as collage and photography as a means of communication. Experiment with drawing, use different types of media and be expressive with line, colour and texture. Think also about silhouettes ayonudr bdloecsikgsn .o Cf coonlsoiudre or rw thoenteh ewr ityhoinu The textile sample 11 addd3rreireaev wectrltiyonioipgnnig n.p gtroe ic nri esape mlrye sooerre ni fta twbhseht araatr ctywtouo rakr eis Researching textiles >Designing textiles > Textiles into production n o hi Introductions Examples as Special section introductions Projects from contemporary F d outline basic concepts that designers bring the principles n will be discussed. under discussion alive. a s e xtil e T AAVVAA••BBaassiiccss FFaasshhiioonn DDeessiiggnn::TTeexxttiillee && FFaasshhiioonn CCDD330088--9955 // 44115500 22nndd PPrrooooff SSIIFF AAVVAABBFF22 CChhpptt11 0088..0022__..qqxxdd 33//1280//0098 14::3185 PPMM PPaaggee 99 8 / 9 Additional information Headings Captions Box-outs elaborate on These enable the reader to These provide image subjects discussed in break down text and refer details and commentary to the main text. quickly to topics of interest. guide the reader in the exploration of the visuals displayed. Colour and trends 118 / 119 CCoololouurr r reefeferreenncciningg CCoololouurr a anndd t hthee c cuusstotommeerr m‘tKDcBwdfT‘mUodkhohurhurhhreeiuiddlil troasila ascit iu-sPne bnkktna1n h-g eiiritim’9casneo e.r Aolu ttusgwr oThhmrrmilt aouum hern‘cadnu lfmeiierlskeyl aur awhe nytewgsidonk-detrtoeoyuy in’a’tI. ree rmrneuidradnyldsd ln n oe ’w sk ficiodatrwaca ahooof,ns k sefmm rciTr,n tiiogrocoh bgmtial enhaoal lteuei.srd CawtpFctcrMrefoyheeocoaorophrffruorceemnr olieonr dochrrsueaseespshuui fg s snnceeac rcothi occlrnneoelovfe iel incdlandoefdonttsoturg euseyuc i ionrlfv frneoerrnoos eu o h.udoy rftn lsmtmo harRsfieec f pastffsana eaoeeib ttmy t dyahr lmtohusrem e eesertuessn.xee sn aerprttdPtqm o tyi oetmlc eaaeu h tcsreosbo n ia ar ctiivfue fgetaonatiroeocnc e nr bcdnlen rthtoa nerrro sieiylifiubncicuemfnst ieranog aesmastragg.nm,yeti s ibie pnodanttmeeonse ttrns,ho t,en CaettliWcsiawasnohtrnno s oaoee rigdtltttiolr nenhgholadty uerh tiehu rnrsgert meo tr s haxoc. aab iensteo sa iealtydsnf elraaovsn ett wpose.sukdd hul rrhrIeei tiyel ntils aoo so ict usiktinfmrtugh o ayhi a.scne l clpeolo iBhy.ytogso u m Wuoelabtrtrlehetysn relaahcmceen tnoctoeitr dmoiesgtfkonl o namt,wne sw ouatrns e.imor s ti labeschlTasa v e ueoiht fnaiyf eng sf eps, tdtt tofey h eawortaon aehosmmhnd wh epbifdetaiiylnotueer yn,y’s 123 JtCRCACPhu aeoahecsnstlp oowtCetyiléonaoarh neirluSglkcoe rhF/ih énScpto g0LoSaxG.8tll /codeli Sonortu.0ub tmrre8na e b. wlsc c oCpraoeoooylakln eltos.s echredtoi o twbony.. describe the colour, the number can idea to offer some of the basic be used to identify the hue. Pantone colours and add to them seasonal charts are arranged chromatically by experimental colours. These colours colour family and contain 1,925 will add life to the collection and will colours. They are a great resource, ideally entice the customer to buy but they are expensive and need to each season’s new colours along with be replaced as the colours start to the trans-seasonal basics. fade, making referencing inaccurate. Skin tone can also have an effect on Looking at colour under different the colour choice of a garment. Dark lighting conditions can affect the hue skin looks great against strong, bright – an incandescent light places a yellow colours, while softer colours work cast on the hue, while a halogen light better against paler skin. creates a blue cast. 1 3 SSeeaassoonn Colours can also be seasonal. Cold seasons tend to warrant darker colours, such as blacks, browns and sludgy colours. As the season warms up the colours become lighter and paler. They then become stronger and brighter as the sun becomes more intense. The sun bleaches out pale colours, so if you are designing for hot countries consider a brighter colour palette. Colour and trends TAWhccloohforhlilitdnicedhkeanae rn yso w cs ftt l eeihtwmh xapeteanial te qccewsouk. eli ootf eorwu rHroo ofpautuewaldrnle a s wtitiutaaeemknsae mrso bhifenirrr itgash.ter2 Colour > Trend prediction his book of t ut o st o Chapter titles Running footers m These run along the bottom of Clear navigation allows the e envaevrigya ptiaogne a tnod p arollovwid eth cele raera der raeraed, ewrh teor ek nthoewy whahveere c tohmeye et th g to understand the context of the from and where they o information on the page. are going in the book. w t o H AAVVAA••BBaassiiccss FFaasshhiioonn DDeessiiggnn::TTeexxttiillee && FFaasshhiioonn CCDD330088--9955 // 44115500 22nndd PPrrooooff
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