Barbecue: The History of an American Institution PDF
Preview Barbecue: The History of an American Institution
RobeRt F. Moss The University of Alabama Press M Tuscaloosa Copyright © 2010 The University of Alabama Press Tuscaloosa, Alabama 35487-0380 All rights reserved The recipes in this book are intended to be followed as written by the author. Results will vary. Manufactured in the United States of America Typeface: Adobe Caslon Pro Designer: Michele Myatt Quinn ∞ The paper on which this book is printed meets the minimum requirements of American National Standard for Information Sciences—Permanence of Paper for Printed Library Materials, ANSI Z39.48-1984. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Moss, Robert F. Barbecue : the history of an American institution / Robert F. Moss. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 978-0-8173-1718-8 (cloth : alk. paper) 1. Barbecue cooking—United States. 2. Barbecue cooking—History—United States. I. Title. TX840.B3M687 2010 ′ 641.76—dc22 2010005683 For my father 5 Acknowledgments ix Introduction 1 1 MBarbecue in Colonial America 5 2 MBarbecue and the Early Republic 24 3 MThe Barbecue Comes of Age 54 4 MBarbecue and the Civil War 82 5 MBarbecue, Reconstruction, and the Gilded Age 98 6 MThe Rise of Barbecue Restaurants 126 7 MBarbecue Finds the Backyard 177 8 MThe Golden Age of Barbecue 194 9 MThe Decline and Rebirth of American Barbecue 217 notes 243 RefeRences 265 Index 269 Acknowledgments 5 This project began almost ten years ago when I went to the University of South Caro- lina library to read about the history of barbecue. I discovered, to my surprise, that not only had no one written a full book on the subject but there really wasn’t much histori- cal research published on barbecue at all. For several years I haphazardly collected old newspaper stories and diary entries about barbecue and slowly began piecing together the story. This research eventually evolved into a book. During that time, I had two children, changed jobs three times, and moved cities and houses three times, too. As with any project with this long a gestation, there are dozens of people who helped along the way, and I am sure I will forget more than a few of those who deserve thanks. John Shelton Reed shared valuable research, encouragement, and much-needed advice as I was finishing this book and trying to figure out how to get it published. I owe him and Dale Vosberg Reed a big blowout at Hominy Grill. Jeff Allen and John T. Edge read chapters from the manuscript, and their comments helped make it better. By the time I’d gotten seriously underway on this project, Robert W. Trogdon had already been exiled to the barbecueless backwoods of Ohio, but he and I ate a lot of mustard-sauced pork together in Columbia, South Carolina, and he helped fuel my early passion for the subject. The Interlibrary Loan Staff at the Charleston County Public Library were invaluable in helping me complete my work far from the walls of a research library, and Ray Quiel of San Bernardino, California, was very generous in providing material on the early McDonald’s restaurants back before they gave up barbecue in favor of hamburgers. The whole team at The University of Alabama Press has done a remarkable job of taking an unwieldy manuscript and turning it into a finished book, and I thank them all for their efforts.
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