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Baltimore & the Chesapeake Bay Alive! (Hunter Travel Guides) PDF

395 Pages·2001·3.36 MB·English
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Preview Baltimore & the Chesapeake Bay Alive! (Hunter Travel Guides)

& THE CHESAPEAKE BAY BarbaraRadcliffeRogers &StillmanRogers HunterPublishing,Inc. 130CampusDrive Edison,NJ08818-7816 (cid:1)732-225-1900/800-255-0343/Fax732-417-1744 Website:www.hunterpublishing.com E-mail:[email protected] INCANADA UlyssesTravelPublications 4176Saint-Denis Montreal,QuébecH2W2M5Canada (cid:1)514-843-9882,Ext.2232/Fax514-843-9448 INTHEUK WindsorBooksInternational TheBoundary,WheatleyRoad Garsington,OxfordOX449EJEngland (cid:1)01865-361122/Fax01865-361133 ISBN1-58843-120-7 ©2001BarbaraRadcliffeRogers&StillmanRogers All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be repro- duced,storedinaretrievalsystem,ortransmittedinanyform, or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, record- ing, or otherwise, without the written permission of the pub- lisher. Thisguidefocusesonrecreationalactivities.Asallsuchactivi- tiescontainelementsofrisk,thepublisher,author,affiliatedin- dividuals and companies disclaim any responsibility for any injury,harm,orillnessthatmayoccurtoanyonethrough,orby useof,theinformationinthisbook.Everyeffortwasmadetoin- suretheaccuracyofinformationinthisbook,butthepublisher andauthordonotassume,andherebydisclaim,anyliabilityfor lossordamagecausedbyerrors,omissions,misleadinginforma- tion or potential travel problems caused by this guide, even if sucherrorsoromissionsresultfromnegligence,accidentorany othercause. MapsbyLissaK.DaileyandToniW.Carbone, ©2001HunterPublishing,Inc. IndexbyEliteIndexingServices 4 3 2 1 About the Authors Stillman(Tim)andBarbaraRogershavelivedandplayed invariouspartsoftheChesapeakeBayareaandnevertire of the contrasts between Baltimore, Annapolis and the Eastern Shore. In addition to Baltimore & The Chesa- peake Bay Alive!, they are the authors of more than two dozenothertravelbooks.TheserangefromTheAdventure GuidetoCanada’sAtlanticProvincestoSignpostPortugal and Exploring Europe by Boat, as well as The Adventure Guide to the Chesapeake Bay. When they’re not traveling orwriting,you’relikelytofindthempaddlingtheirkayaks inatidalestuary. About the Alive Guides Reliable, detailed and personally researched by knowl- edgeableauthors,theAlive!serieswasfoundedbyHarriet andArnoldGreenberg. This accomplished travel-writing team also operates a re- nownedbookstore,TheCompleteTraveller,at199Madi- sonAvenueinNewYorkCity. Apart from any fair dealing for the purposes of research or private study, or criticism or review, as permitted under the relevant copyright, designs and patents acts, this publication may only be reproduced, stored or transmitted, in any form or by any means, with the prior permission in writing of the publisher. eBooks Corporation We Love to Get Mail Thisbookhasbeencarefullyresearchedtobringyoucur- rent, accurate information. But no place is unchanging. We welcome your comments for future editions. Please writeusat:AliveGuides,c/oHunterPublishing,130Cam- pusDrive,Edison,NJ08818,ore-mailyourcommentsto [email protected]. Due to the volume of mail we receive,weregretthatwecannotpersonallyreplytoeach letterormessage,butyourcommentsaregreatlyappreci- atedandwillberead. Acknowledgments Fortheirhelpandencouragementinwritingthisbook,we thankallthepatientpeoplethroughoutthecitiesandthe Eastern Shore who took time to answer our persistent questions and sent us off with directions to their favorite places. We especially thank Connie Yingling, Anne Man- nixandMindyBianca,whosecompanyalwaysmakesour travelsmorefunandwhosedetailedknowledgeofthearea invariably leads us to places we’d never have found with- out them. Our appreciation also to Nancy Hinds, Larry Noto, Julie Horner, Sandy Turner, Kathy MacGruder, Bethany Lantham, Terry Nyquist, Anedra Wiseman and BethRhoadesforsmoothingtheroadbeforeus. For their help with the actual writing, a big thank-you to food-writerJulietteRogersformanyoftheBaltimoreres- taurantreviewsandtoLuraRogersfortheinsidescoopon the city’s shopping and nightlife. Both also added their perspectivesonthecity’smanyoffbeatmuseums. We also appreciate the advice and help of our family, whichspreadsallovertheBaltimore-Annapolisarea:Shir- leyandCharlesRadcliffe,SuzanneandJeffWilhoit,Carol Derbis,DebbieandAidenDerbis,JanelleandJayDerbis. Finally,ourappreciationtoourlong-sufferingeditor,Lissa Dailey,whohasbeenflexibleinthefaceofcomputerfail- uresandpatientwithouroccasionalcrankiness,hassaved usfromourinabilitytoreadourownscribbledtravelnotes correctly,andhasshuffledourwordsaboutinsuchaway astomakeussoundliterate. www.hunterpublishing.com Hunter’sfullrangeoftravelguidestoallcornersofthe globe is featured on our exciting Web site. You’ll find guidebooks to suit every type of traveler, no matter what their budget, lifestyle, or idea of fun. Full descriptions are given for each book, along with re- viewers’ comments and a cover image. Books may be purchased on-line using a credit card via our secure transactionsystem.Allonlineordersreceivea20%dis- count. Alive! guides featured include: Antigua, Barbuda, St. Kitts&Nevis;Aruba,Bonaire&Curaçao;Bermuda;Ja- maica; Buenos Aires & The Best of Argentina; Vene- zuela; The Cayman Islands; Cancún & Cozumel; St. Martin & St. Barts; Nassau & The Best of The Baha- mas; Martinique, Guadeloupe, Dominica & St. Lucia; The Catskills; Dallas & Fort Worth; Miami & The FloridaKeys;andAtlanta. CheckoutourAdventureGuides,aseriesaimedatthe independent traveler who enjoys outdoor activities (rafting, hiking, biking, skiing, canoeing, etc.). All booksinthissignatureseriescoverplacestostayand eat, sightseeing, in-town attractions, transportation andmore! Hunter’sRomanticWeekendsseriesoffersmyriadthings todoforcouplesofallagesandlifestyles.Quaintplaces to stay and restaurants where the ambiance will take your breath away are included, along with fun activi- tiesthatyouandyourpartnerwillrememberforever. Contents Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 PlanningYourTrip . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 ChoosingaPlacetoStay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Dining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 WeGetLetters. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 WhattoExpect. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Safety. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 GettingHere. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Festivals&Events. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 InformationSources. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 TheTop10Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Baltimore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 ABriefHistory. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 TheNeighborhoods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 GettingAround . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 InformationSources. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 SunuptoSundown. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 SpectatorSports. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 Recreation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 ShopTillYouDrop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103 AfterDark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 BestPlacestoStay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 BestPlacestoEat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 Annapolis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173 ABriefHistory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173 GettingHere . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 GettingAround. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 InformationSources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177 SunuptoSundown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 ShopTillYouDrop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203 AfterDark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206 viii Baltimore & The Chesapeake Bay Alive! BestPlacestoStay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210 BestPlacestoEat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214 The Northern Chesapeake Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221 ABriefHistory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224 GettingHere . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225 GettingAround. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225 InformationSources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226 SunuptoSundown. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226 AfterDark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257 BestPlacestoStay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258 BestPlacestoEat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264 The Lower Eastern Shore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275 GettingHere . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276 GettingAround. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 277 InformationSources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 278 SunuptoSundown. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 279 AfterDark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307 BestPlacestoStay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 309 BestPlacestoEat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 320 West to the Mountains . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 335 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 335 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 335 GettingHere&GettingAround. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 336 InformationSources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338 SunuptoSundown. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 339 AfterDark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 365 BestPlacestoStay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 367 BestPlacestoEat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 371 Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 377 Dedication To Dierdre and Tom, and to Cameron, who protects us frommonsters,whereverwetravel.

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This beautiful region on the East Coast is a sailor's dream destination, a seafood lover's delight. This Alive! guide offers perhaps the only comprehensive coverage of the area, including all the travel information you need, as well as the best places to stay and eat.
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