Baking with Less Sugar: Recipes for Desserts Using Natural Sweeteners and Little-To-No White Sugar

203 Pages·2015·25.788 MB·English

by  Chang, Joanne;Leo, Joseph De(Photographs)

Joanne Chang of Flour Bakery + Café
B A K I N G W I T H
L E S S S U G A R
RECIPES FOR DESSERTS using
NATURAL SWEETENERS and
LITTLE-TO-NO WHITE SUGAR
Photographs by Joseph De Leo
CHRONICLE BOOKS
SAN FRANCISCO
Text copyright © 2015 by Joanne Chang.
Photographs copyright © 2015 by Joseph De Leo.
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be
reproduced in any form without written permis-
sion from the publisher.
ISBN 978-1-4521-3960-9 (epub, mobi)
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication
Data available.
ISBN 978-1-4521-3300-3 (hc)
Designed by Alice Chau
Food styling by Molly Shuster
Chronicle Books LLC
680 Second Street
San Francisco, California 94107
www.chroniclebooks.com
To Christopher, my everything.
CO N T E N TS
CHAPTER TWO
Introduction 8
JUST CHOCOLATE
Why low/no sugar? 11 67
What is low/no sugar? 15 Chocolate-Orange Truffles 68
What’s behind the science of sweets? 17 Simple Chocolate Mousse 70
How to stock your kitchen 20 Double Chocolate Whoopie Pies 72
Tips 24 Bittersweet Chocolate Pots de Crème 75
How to substitute for sugar 26 Chocolate Fudge–Bourbon Ice Cream 78
Mint Chocolate Ice Cream Sandwiches 80
CHAPTER ONE
Mocha Shaved Ice with Vanilla Cream 84
REDUCING
Deep-Dark-Chocolate Pudding Cakes 87
WHITE SUGAR
31 Truffle Chocolate Cream Pie 88
Pear-Cardamom-Walnut Scones 32
CHAPTER THREE
Blueberry Bran Muffins 34
USING HONEY
Cinnamon Sugar Monkey Bread 37 93
Better than Flour Famous Banana Bread 40 Honey Cashew Morning Buns 94
Fudgy Mascarpone Brownies 42 Cherry Almond Granola 97
Cameron’s Lemon-Polenta-Pistachio Buttons 44 Cranberry-Orange-Walnut Biscotti 98
White Chocolate–Cherry-Almond Cookies 47 Nutty-Seedy-Fruity Energy Bars 100
Oatmeal-Raisin-Cranberry Cookies 50 Banana Cinnamon Bread Pudding 103
Blueberry Nectarine Pie 52 Vanilla Honey Rice Pudding 104
Vanilla-Pecan Coffee Cake 56 Honey-Champagne Sabayon Parfaits with
Fresh Berries 105
Coconut Chiffon Cake with Coconut Glaze 59
Raspberry Honey Frozen Yogurt 106
Yellow Birthday Cake with Fluffy Chocolate
Ganache Frosting 62 Peanut Butter Honey Cookies 108
Warm Apple-Raisin Crisp 110
Pain d’Épices 113
Fresh Peach Ricotta Tart 114 CHAPTER FIVE
FRUIT IS SWEET
Lemon Ricotta Cupcakes with Fluffy Lemon 155
Frosting 116
Pumpkin-Walnut Cheesecake Bars 156
Honey-Almond Snack Cake 119
Pecan-Date Shortbread Cookies 158
Spiced Pear Turnovers 161
CHAPTER FOUR
BAKING WITH Strawberry Cream Cheese Fool 166
MAPLE SYRUP Coconut Tapioca with Pineapple, Mango,
and Lime 169
AND MOLASSES
123 Almond Milk Panna Cotta with Plum-Grape
Compote 172
Maple-Bacon-Cheddar Biscuits 124
Orange Granita with Pears, Cranberries, and
Molasses Gingerbread 127
Citrus 174
Cranberry-Cornmeal-Maple Bread 128
Pineapple-Coconut-Banana Sorbet 177
Pumpkin-Apple Spice Muffins 130
Unbelievable Banana Ice Cream 178
Keith’s Super-Snappy Gingersnaps 132
Summer Peach Dumplings with Almonds and
Sticky Toffee Pudding with Maple Sauce 135 Whipped Cream 179
Old-Fashioned Indian Pudding 138 Mixed Berry Cobbler with Crème Fraîche 182
Maple Crème Caramel 140 French Apple-Almond Crostata 184
Maple Pecan Ice Cream 142 Carrot-Pineapple Cake with Cream Cheese
Maple Cream Donuts 144 Frosting 187
Pear-Maple Tarte Tatin 147 Kabocha Squash Spice Cake 191
Maple-Pumpkin Pie 150
Acknowledgments 193
Apple-Walnut-Maple Cake 153
Index 195
I N T RO D U C T I O N
Life is sweet. It is. It’s not always easy. It’s not with- and a brioche, or reward yourself for making it
out ups and downs, triumphs and tragedies. But through three-quarters of your work day with a
LIFE IS SWEET. Why do I make this declaration? cookie or half cupcake, or maybe you commemo-
Because I’ve taken these simple words, swallowed rate a friend’s new venture with a gussied-up and
them whole, and used them as words to live by. decadent midnight chocolate cake—each of these
For as long as I can remember, no matter what my situations shows how naturally we intertwine sweet-
mood or what I’m feeling, it only takes a bite of ness and happiness. Even in sorrow we might take
something wonderful and sweet to make all seem refuge in a bowl (okay, pint) of Häagen-Dazs coffee.
right in the world. Baking is my life and I choose Sometimes the sweetness of that ice cream is
it every day as my path and my passion. On some exactly what it takes to wait out that agonizing
level, my life is simply that simple. soon-to-be ex’s %#^$ phone call.
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G Every morning, I walk into Flour and I stop for a I am and always have been so committed to the
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S S moment to take in the full breadth of our morning notion that bringing sweetness into the world
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LE bake-off. It’s fourteen years and running, and it simply makes life better that I have made it my
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T still makes me giddy at how gorgeous a full counter life’s work. I had a more–than-stable and respect-
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G of beautifully prepared baked goods can be. It able job in business consulting. I traded it in to
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KI never gets old. I look around and I truly want to eat peddle pastry and desserts. NOT what you do when
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/ B all of it. The counter is overrun with warm brioche your parents immigrate to America, work their tails
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neatly arranged on serving trays, sugary fruity off to give you the best education on the planet,
muffins piled high in baskets, chewy oversized scrimp and save and sacrifice. No matter what I
cookies lined up on platters, comforting quick tried to focus on or what my parents subtly—or not
breads stacked one on top of another. I look to so subtly—suggested (be a doctor, be a lawyer,
the bakers and see the most lovely faces—focused, what about medicine? what about law?), my dreams
serious, committed, sometimes silly, sometimes persistently ran to mounds of butter, mountains
exhausted—and I think Willy Wonka is alive and of flour, and ultimately, hills of sugar: the glorious
well at Flour Bakery. I’m happy. trifecta of baked goods. It’s such a part of my DNA
to indulge in sweetness from the moment I wake
Maybe the complexities of life can’t all be reduced
up until I fall asleep that I made it my bakery’s
to a cookie . . . but a well-made cookie can sure
motto: Make Life Sweeter, Eat Dessert First!
bring some music into it. For me, the connection
between baking sweets and happiness runs long A connection that runs just as deeply as that
and strong and it is indelible. If you’re holding between sweetness and happiness is the rela-
this book, then that connection—sweetness and tionship between sugar and sweetness. And, by
happiness—more than likely is a powerful one for the transitive property, then sugar must be the
you as well. Whether you start the day with coffee sine qua non of creating happiness, right? Well if
you’re a classically trained pastry chef, then yes. the balance of acid and sweetness in fresh fruit,
Absolutely. Of course. Or at least so I thought. the spiciness of grated nutmeg, in fact everything
but the hit-over-your-head aspect of sugary sweet
Over the last two decades as my experience as a
flavors that I used to crave.
pastry chef has grown, the one immutable lesson I
am certain of is: The more I know the more I don’t The running joke in the Chang-Myers household
know. Every time I learn of a new ingredient or is that, despite the fact that all I eat all day long
technique the boundaries of what I think makes is cake and cookies and muffins, we have nary a
an excellent pastry expand. Of course, molecular pastry in the house. It didn’t start out that way. In
gastronomy—making mango foams and coffee air fact, part of the wooing process Christopher went
and caramel smoke and such—has introduced us through when we were first dating was to visit me
all to flavors and textures never before seen in at the first Flour almost every single day to get his
desserts until recently. But even less dramatic morning pastry and/or afternoon treat. His sweet
than that is realizing that nothing is absolute, tooth rivals mine (it is one of the many, many ways
especially what defines “delicious” to me. A recipe I knew immediately he was the one for me), and
for chocolate mousse that I made when I was first over a slice of carrot cake or a shared chocolate
starting out in pastry now tastes awfully bland to cupcake we would banter and joke and flirt. Was
me; an almond torte that I used to swoon over, I he here to see me or because he was addicted to
barely cast a second glance at; ricotta turnovers our peanut butter cookies and lemon tarts? Or 9 /
that I couldn’t wait to remove from the first pastry both? Now that we are married he teases me that IN
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menu I inherited, I now adore. My previously I pulled the wool over his eyes. He thought he O
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unexamined assumption that sugar is the most signed up for a lifetime supply of baked goods, but C
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direct source to creating the sweetness that we day in and day out I come home empty-handed. IO
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love has been tested over and over again as I’ve “We’re like the shoemaker’s children who never
sampled and experimented with other far more have shoes!” he declares. “We never have sweets
interesting paths towards that same goal. in the house!”
I've realized that desserts benefit from spanning As life would have it, it turns out that Christopher
the sweetener spectrum to include honey, maple, is sensitive to sugar. It fills him up with giddy
fruit juice, and more. I’ve surrounded myself with energy and then sends him crashing down into a
more and more ways of eating sweets all day daze. I’ve witnessed the sugar rush and ensuing
long but in a more balanced fashion. I still crave inevitable crash enough times to finally see the
something sweet as soon as I wake up . . . but it no pattern. How ironic is it that sugar—the stalwart
longer needs to be covered in icing and showered ingredient of my career—is the culprit? Over the
in sugar. I have always believed that the best des- years I’ve searched for other ways to satisfy his
serts highlight flavors other than just that of sweet, sugar cravings, starting with simple fruit treats like
sweet, sweet. Nuts and fruits and cream and choc- frozen bananas dipped in bittersweet chocolate,
olate are all such enticing flavors, and they should and mango sorbets made creamy with a hit of
be the stars of the show. My own personal favorite coconut milk to more involved pastries like a
pastries are those that showcase the richness of sticky toffee pudding cake sweetened with just
creamy butter, the round warmth of vanilla bean, a touch of maple syrup, and granola bars full of
dried fruit and bound together with a smidge Cake with Fluffy Chocolate Ganache Frosting
of honey. I am fascinated by the exploration of (page 62), and Cinnamon Sugar Monkey Bread
finding other ways to add flavor and delight to a (page 37) that you and your family will clamor for
dessert without relying on white sugar. And I know . . . made with a fraction of the white sugar that
you will be, too. these treats typically use. You will bake Banana
Cinnamon Bread Pudding (page 103) sweetened
Here you will learn to bake all of your favorite
only with honey and a Pear-Maple Tarte Tatin
pastries with minimal or no refined white sugar.
(page 147) that relies on maple syrup, not sugar,
While sugar is obviously the most common sweet-
for sweetness. A decadent Truffle Chocolate
ener used in baking, it’s by no means your only
Cream Pie (page 88) is made with no added sugar
option. You will discover, as I did, that when you
other than the sugar that is in the chocolate, and
don't focus on sugar and sweetness, you end up
it will become your new favorite dessert to satisfy
with desserts that are full of amazing, compelling
the chocoholics in your life. You won’t believe
flavor. Many sugar alternatives are items you
that Carrot-Pineapple Cake with Cream Cheese
already have stocked in your pantry. You will
Frosting (page 186) and buttery flaky Spiced Pear
incorporate sweetness into desserts with more
Turnovers (page 161) have no white sugar, and
varied ingredients such as honey, maple syrup,
you’ll learn how to sweeten desserts with simply
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GA chocolate, and fruit. White sugar is familiar and fruit and fruit juices. You will be amazed over
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S S pleasing, but these alternate sources of sweetness and over at how you can make awesome baked
ES offer more alluring, complex flavors and deeper, goods that contain little to no white sugar. You will
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H more interesting elements to your desserts in ways
T realize that you can bake with less or no sugar for
WI that sugar alone can’t.
G exactly the same reason why we bake in general:
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KI to make fabulous, scrumptious desserts that you,
A You’ll find recipes for White Chocolate–Cherry-
0 / B Almond Cookies (page 47), Yellow Birthday your friends, and your family love to eat.
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