This book is printed on acid-free paper. o Copyright © 2011 by Lisa Yockelson. All rights reserved. Published by John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey Published simultaneously in Canada No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning, or otherwise, except as permitted under Section 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per- copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, Inc., 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, (978) 750-8400, fax (978) 646-8600, or on the Web at www.copyright.com. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Permissions Department, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030, (201) 748-6011, fax (201) 748-6008, or online at http://www.wiley.com/go/permissions. 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Further, only décoratifs specifically considered food products and safe for consumption should be eaten; otherwise and without exception, the items should be used only as decorations. Any and all ornaments, nonedible embellishments, or decorations, including “jewelry” and decorative picks, fastened to ovenproof baking cup liners or enhancing serving platters, are for decorative use only. Any ornamental decorations (including chains, golden ropes, strings of pearls, or ribbons) are for decorative use only; decorations should be fastened to the side of the ovenproof baking cup liners and/or tucked in between the middle of double or triple-layered liners. For general information on our other products and services or for technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the United States at (800) 762-2974, outside the United States at (317) 572-3993 or fax (317) 572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic books. For more information about Wiley products, visit our Web site at www.wiley.com. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data: Yockelson, Lisa. Baking Style / Lisa Yockelson. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 978-0-470-43702-5 (cloth) 1. Baking. I. Title. TX763.Y63145 2011 641.8’15--dc22 2010013160 Printed in China 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 photography by Ben Fink design by Mucca Design baking for photography by the author all of the fabrics, embroidered linens, paper materials, collectibles, china, and glass are from the author’s collection on-site visual china, glassware, and paper selection by the author creative exploration by the author with Pamela Chirls, executive editor, culinary arts, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. computer technical support for the author by John George linen embroidery for the author by Jean-Pierre Jousse of La Broderie Internationale this baking diary is dedicated to the life and times of my mother Irene Ida Understine Yockelson January 1, 1917—June 13, 1980 for the remarkable buttermilk chocolate cake recipe, the memory of the meringue gâteau of many layers cemented to the baking pans, and the babka that broke the garbage disposal Contents withGratitude x mellow 53 bakingStylePrelude xii apple cake, maple butter glaze 55 an introduction to cultivating maple butter glaze 56 your own baking style bright, not perky 57 bakingElements xiv orange and bourbon: cake, saturated 59 clarified butter 1 orange and honey: sunshine rolls, orange glaze 60 vanilla-scented sugar 2 orange glaze 61 intensified vanilla extract 3 revisiting a cookie 62 bakingCraft 4 butter dough, personalized in chocolate 64 bakingProcess 4 sweetly tart 65 the language of Baking Style 12 lemon cake, sublime and divine, lemony Baking Style terminology 12 sugar wash with glazed lemon threads 67 bakingShapeStructureForm 18 lemony sugar wash with glazed lemon threads 68 basics for preparation, finishing, the lemon cake that won’t go away (updated), and establishing quantity 19 lemon soaking glaze, lemon pour 69 art of mixing 20 lemon soaking glaze 70 shaping tools 22 lemon pour 70 bakeware that creates form 24 the morning belongs to cinnamon 71 distributing and sweeping 28 butter+cinnamon+sugar=cake 73 a good rest and a thoughtful lift 29 cinnamon buttermilk butter dips 74 craft of decorating 30 zesty, spicy, sweet 75 molasses crinkles 77 bakingStorybook pastperfect 33 78 a baking life 35 a baking memento 79 forever brownies 37 keepsake cookies: “california” mandel breit, lisa’s mandel breit 81 “california” mandel breit 81 lisa’s mandel breit 82 pureflavor biscotti2: languorous afternoon almond cookies 38 for dipping and its going-boldly-into-almond cousin 83 almond essence 39 biscotti #1 83 a noble marzipan cake 41 biscotti #2 84 little almond cakes 42 a holiday ritual, dozen upon dozen 86 marzipan scones 43 roll out those cookies 88 blueberries, melding and melting 44 blushing birthday girl 89 a gentle blueberry buckle 45 vanilla cupcakes, pink frosting 91 special blueberry cakes 46 pink frosting 92 blueberry breakfast cake 48 coconut queen 93 butterluscious 49 an indulgent coconut cake 94 majesticbread: luxury rolls 51 brown sugar-coconut cookies 97 granddaughter’s bread, grandmother’s cake 98 cookies, untamed 154 hot milk bread 100 larger-than-life, chunky-bulky vanilla milk cake 102 bittersweet chocolate praline cookies 156 learning to knead 103 fudge griddled 157 a 14-year-old’s rolls still tasty cocoa waffles, very bittersweet after all these years 105 chocolate cream spread 159 motherlove 107 very bittersweet chocolate cream spread 160 the don’t-dispute-your-mother cake 108 lacking restraint 161 favorite chocolate sheet cake, to the memory of alice 110 date bars deluxe, big and crazy chewy 163 date tart-cakes 164 dewy torte 165 plainold-fashioned little muffins, sauced 167 112 chocolate chip muffinettes, satiny chocolate overlay 169 a chocolate blanket 113 rough and tumble, moist and sensual 171 chocolate comfort cake, creamy chocolate frosting 115 craggy-top sour cream buns, vanilla streusel 173 creamy chocolate frosting 116 vanilla streusel 174 bananarama 117 seductive times two 175 a gentle banana cake 118 edge-of-darkness bars 176 banana tea loaf 119 confection brownies 178 a big banana cake 120 fry happy 179 freckled 122 cake doughnut strips 181 chocolate chip cake 124 glazed risers, vanilla-maple galze 182 more-than-the-kitchen-sink 125 vanilla-maple glaze 184 lady bountiful cookies 127 beignets soufflés 184 peanuts reign 128 navigating the peanut butter cookie 130 quite golden 131 dreamyregal 186 cornbread two ways: muffins, pan 133 muffins 133 a golden ring of cake 187 pan 134 savarin, well-nourished: imbibing syrup, streaky, moist, and messy 135 apricot glaze, sweetened cream 189 dirty cake 137 imbibing syrup 190 the aroma of plain 138 apricot glaze 191 exquisite cake 140 sweetened cream 191 nutmeg nostalgia: a sentimental butter cake 141 all tucked in 192 sunday bread 142 chocolate babka 194 soft cloverleaf rolls, cozy and warm 144 “brownie” babka 196 cardamom buns that (almost) levitate 146 babka pan twist 198 cinnamon babka morning cake 200 bouffant 202 verynaughty parmesan and gruyère popovers 204 148 cinnamon breakfast popovers 205 chocolate, and a lot of it, in the right place 149 egg whites to the nth degree 206 a nice, untidy torte, #1 151 monster vanilla meringues 208 a nice, untidy torte, #2 152 finally, after all these years 210 stirred custard 153 cheesecake deluxe 213 in the round, fluted 215 a fresh fig and pastry jamboree 272 butter cake bread 217 rustic fig tart 274 undone 219 inflated and cream-filled, inflated in a savory way 276 a relaxed trifle, no construction necessary: vanilla cream clouds with soft vanilla center 278 cake, custard to pour, fruit and cream 221 soft vanilla center 280 cake 221 cheese clouds 281 custard to pour 222 loopy 282 fruit and cream 222 bubble bread 284 jammy 223 soda “pop” 286 sweet sandwiches: apricot-filled nut cookies 224 raisin soda bread, sweetly 288 jam tart 225 lush whole wheat soda bread 289 twisted 290 a yeasty, cinnamon-entwined pastry 292 textureexquisite 228 flat and puffy 295 a flatbread busy with cheese 296 awfully sticky 229 a sugared-up flatbread 298 rich, richer, richest sticky buns 231 crispycrunchycookie 233 riot-of-ingredients breakup 235 intensebold gritty but good 236 300 corn meal and cherry dipping cookies 238 a delicious crumble 301 corn meal tea cake 239 hint-of-salt shortbread, the restrained version 302 on the side, but maybe not 240 wildly lush hint-of-salt lavender shortbread, the perfect “side-dish” cookie 242 the unrestrained version 303 seriously seeking chewy and plump 243 bold, buttery, and basic shortbread 306 almond macaroons in an embrace of flavor and texture 245 a rough-hewn cookie 307 so tender 246 cupcakes, gilded 308 vanilla jewels, just like sandies 248 candy-crunched golden cupcakes: pecan gems 249 golden cupcakes, golden frosting, chocolate chip sablés 249 golden popcorn croquant 310 irene’s slice-and-bake sugar cookies 250 golden frosting 311 tender is the bread 252 golden popcorn croquant 312 featherbed bread 254 sweet finance 314 simple but good hot rolls 256 financiers 316 cake for breakfast—oh my! 258 rustic almond macaroon buns 318 morning butter slice 260 in the spirit of 320 cookies that vaporize 261 moist and chewy fruit slice 322 almond crescents 263 not dainty 324 ginger buttons 264 coconutextreme: macaroons, with chocolate 326 lemon melties 265 really spicy 327 a cookie dough with history 329 contourfanciful royal icing 331 266 food color powder application for winter bread 267 decorating royal icing–coated cookies 331 bread for dessert, bread for cheese: fruit bread 268 to the brim 332 bread for soup: favorite grainy pan rolls 269 luxury cake, sparkly and nutty 334 one way or the other 335 coconut butter balls 387 a delightful brunch cake, two ways: aroma-of-cinnamon minties 388 cake, take one; aroma-of-cinnamon cake, take two 336 not a bowl of hot oatmeal 389 aroma-of-cinnamon cake, take one 336 “oatmeal raisin cookie” scones 390 aroma-of-cinnamon cake, take two 337 “oatmeal raisin cookie” morning rolls 391 tipping the scale on chocolate 340 vanilla icing 392 dark shadows 342 sticks, rounds, and hearts 394 waffle batons and hearts 396 pancake rounds, griddled 397 polishedsophisticated 344 thin and jam-packed 398 crêpes, slathered 400 cookies that cast a butter spell 345 zoom! 401 butter and sugar cookies 347 gossamer potato rolls 403 a cake for twenty-four hours 349 butter-striated potato rolls 405 oily cake 351 blond, beautiful (of texture), and brown sugary 407 candied orange peel 353 blondie cake 409 sweet bread tart 354 alluring 410 a regal breakfast bread 356 a very vanilla bread 412 chocolate dressed for autumn 358 pumpkin cake, with chips 360 cultured 361 lushexuberant all-praise-the-virtues-of-sour-cream cake 363 414 the butter cake challenge 364 a liberal use of toffee 415 center stage butter cake 366 brown sugar toffee cake 417 cake with maximum heft—and the delicacy of cardamom 367 formula for excess 418 syrupy red wine prunes 368 sweet-surplus-of-chocolate cookies 420 the royal treatment 369 high-volume chocolate 421 two kinds of madeleines: lemon soakers, a what-you-can-do-with-a-pound-of- chocolate dunkers, and liquid chocolate 370 good-chocolate cake, chocolate darkness 423 lemon soakers 370 chocolate darkness 424 chocolate dunkers 371 hundreds of cookies later 425 liquid chocolate 372 twice as good cookies, #1 sugar and #2 sugar 427 whirly and twirly 374 #1 sugar 427 an aristocratic raisin bread 376 #2 sugar 428 rolled and folded 429 comfycozy sugar love knots 431 378 stand tall 434 a sweet soaking 379 fruit bread, ginger preserve glaze 436 rose water babas, rose water syrup 381 a savory nibble 438 rose water syrup 382 appetizer bread 440 fresh-ahead 383 a quartet of cookie doughs that survives cold storage: oatmeal cookies—bundled up; toffee, dried cherry, and downhome 442 bittersweet chocolate gems; coconut butter balls; minties 385 oatmeal cookies—bundled up 385 nothing fancy 443 toffee, dried cherry, and bittersweet chocolate gems 386 the cinnamon-raisin buns of my childhood, #1 445 the cinnamon-raisin buns of my childhood, #2 447 melty, lush: empowered-with- a simple sweet roll icing 448 bittersweet-chocolate 476 biscuits without apology 449 wild ones 477 thistledown biscuits 451 just for fun 478 enduring buttermilk biscuits 452 sweet vanilla pretzel ties 480 enduring pan biscuits 453 flavored, dropped 482 biscuits and a pile of fruit: summer shortcakes— corn meal and cranberry drop biscuits 484 as in rich cream dough, buttered peaches, drop biscuits, spice cake–style 485 blueberry compote, vanilla cream topping 454 buttery cream drop biscuits 486 buttered peaches 455 miniature cream drop biscuit muffinettes 487 blueberry compote 455 establishing a tradition 488 vanilla cream topping 456 “roasted chicken” rolls, #1 490 ginger, front and center 457 “roasted chicken” rolls, #2 491 a snuggly gingerbread tea cake, lemon butter, gingered cream 459 lemon butter 460 bakingStorybookEpilogue 493 gingered cream 461 gingered pumpkin squares for the breadbasket 462 every last crumb 494 streusel overload 463 a snazzy bittersweet chocolate tea bread 497 scones-to-the-max 464 a decadent streusel coffee cake 467 friendship baking 468 bakingDiary 499 a gift of bread 470 scrapbooking your baking memories 499 bundles of joy 472 bakingSelectedSources 500 melting for chocolate chip cookies 474 bakingBibliography 503 when chocolate chip cookies go butterscotch 475 bakingStyleIndex 506 ❊❊❊
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