Australian Gourmet Traveller - September 2022

156 Pages·2022·178.8 MB·English

The
breakfast
issue
S
Food
88 GOLDEN HOUR
From pancakes to crumpets,
kick-start your day with these
golden morning favourites.
E
Ricotta, pea and parmesan
crespelle.................................91
Pepperberry crumpets with
whipped balsamic butter ...91
Crisp potato waffles with sauce
gribiche ..................................92
Okonomiyaki hotcakes with
school prawns .....................95
Soufflé pancakes with 108 RAINBOW WARRIOR
genmaicha sugar ................95 Celebrate vegetables with
Syrian filled pancakes with these plant-forward recipes
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pistachio cream ...................96 from Alice Hart’s new
Croque-madame crêpes........96 cookbook The Magnificent
Book of Vegetables.
98 BREAK THE FAST, Beetroot risotto with crisp sage
SPREAD THE LOVE and crème fraîche .............111
Shake up your breakfast Roast cauliflower with crisp
routine with vibrant Middle breadcrumbs ......................112
Eastern flavours. Smashed new potato salad
with blue cheese and
Spiced eggplant and chickpea endive ..................................113
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fatteh .....................................101 Purple sprouting broccoli A
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Rose and Cardamom Tea paccheri ...............................114 O
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Punch ....................................101 Roast rainbow carrots with D
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Turkish eggs with samoon ......102 olives, spelt DA
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Labne with nigella, anise and and tarragon .....................114 N
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pomegranate.........................103 T
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Falafel with cauliflower Y.
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hummus and burnt paprika RN
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butter......................................105 DE
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Baked sardines with E
B
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zhoug ...................................105 H
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Za’atar manouche with R
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haloumi ................................106 O
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Citrus Spritz ............................106 H
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Features
SEPTEMBER 2022
ON THE COVER
Soufflé pancakes with
58 COFFEE’S NEXT WAVE
genmaicha sugar (p95)
Follow Nadia Bailey’s foray into Australia’s ever-
growing coffee industry.
Recipe Jessica Brook
Photography Ben Dearnley
Styling David Morgan 62 A NEW DAWN
From tragedy comes a new hope for Brisbane’s beloved
Jan Powers Farmers Markets, writes Fiona Donnelly.
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Details p84
71 STAR PLAYERS
Presenting the finalists in the Gourmet Traveller
2023 Restaurant Awards.
Regulars
9 UPFRONT Editor’s letter, contributors and news. Travel
27 FIVE OF A KIND Bacon.
28 A QUICK WORD Deborah Sams.
120 GOOD MORNING AMERICA
30 THE KITCHEN GARDENER Artichokes. Travel across four states with Alexandra Carlton as she
32 COMMUNITY X KYLIE Sally Scales. uncovers the best of America’s breakfasts.
34 WINE COUNTRY Margaret River.
36 COCKTAIL HOUR Michelada.
128 TURKISH DELIGHT
39 REVIEW Dining out. Dilvin Yasa discovers why kahvaltı is Turkey’s most
47 EVERYDAY Simple, fast everyday meals. important meal of the day and where best to enjoy it.
56 MASTERCLASS Congee.
118 THE ART OF TRAVEL Breakfasting boldly.
126 A CHEF’S GUIDE Perth.
134 CHECKING IN QT, Newcastle.
146 STYLE Home, fashion and beauty.
154 OBJECTS OF DESIRE Toasters.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT OF COUNTRY
Gourmet Traveller acknowledges the Gadigal people of the
Eora Nation as the traditional custodians of the place we
now call Sydney, where this magazine is published. Gourmet
Traveller also pays respects to Elders past and present.
R. This issue of Gourmet Traveller is published by Are Media Pty Ltd (Are Media). Are Media may use and disclose
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LI European Union. In addition, this issue may contain Reader Offers, being offers, competitions or surveys. Reader Lee Tulloch reminisces about hotel breakfasts.
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R provided with a Reader Offer. Unless you exercise that opt-out choice, personal information collected for Reader 138 AUSTRALIA’S BEST HOTEL BREAKFASTS
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GOURMET TRAVELLER 5
O F I N D EDI
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D
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Joanna Hunkin
Editor
Deputy Editor Karlie Verkerk
Acting Deputy Editor Anna McCooe
Art
Art Director Lauren de Sousa
Designer Holly Doran
Words
Acting Digital Editor Callum McDermott
Senior Sub-editor Suzanna Chriss
Writer Jordan Kretchmer
Editorial Coordinator Charlotte Wishart
Food
Group Food Director Sophia Young
Senior Food Editor Dominic Smith
Style
Creative Consultant Hannah Blackmore
Contributors
Nadia Bailey, Alexandra Carlton, Fiona Donnelly, Michael Harden, Anna Hart,
Matty Hirsch, Kylie Kwong, Tristan Lutze, Samantha Payne, Simon Rickard, Jessica Rigg,
Katie Spain, Lee Tulloch, Max Veenhuyzen, Dilvin Yasa, Hannah-Rose Yee
Advertising
Group Commercial Brand Manager Rhyl Heavener
Advertising Production Manager Kate Orsborn
Brand executive Julia Maher
Director of Sales (NSW, Vic, WA and SA) Karen Holmes
Head of Direct Sales (Vic, SA, WA) Will Jamison
Queensland Head of Sales Judy Taylor
Senior Events Manager Cate Gazal
Advertising enquiries [email protected]
Marketing, Research & Circulation
Marketing Director Louise Cankett
Circulation Manager Nicole Pearson
Senior Research Analyst Ania Falenciak
Senior Manager Subscriptions Ellie Xuereb
Junior Manager Subscriptions Anjali Israni
Are Media
Chief Executive Officer Jane Huxley
Group Publisher Nicole Byers
Gifts for dad Director of Sales Andrew Cook
1 Trilogia Circulo rug in Emerald, $1250, Art Hide. Head of Commercial Content and Creative Simon Smith
2 Grey nylon backpack, $379, Adolfo Dominguez. Business Manager Georgina Bromfield
3 Invigorating shampoo, $45, Hunter Lab.
4 Bowie The Poet sunglasses, $169, Tribu Eyewear. Editorial office GPO Box 4088, Sydney, NSW 2001, Australia phone [phone]
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under licence. ©2020 All rights reserved. Printed by IVE, Unit 1/83 Derby St, Silverwater, NSW, 2128. National distribution by Gordon and Gotch Australia Pty Ltd. 1300 650 666. Gourmet Traveller
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6 GOURMET TRAVELLER

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Editor’s letter
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r What a difference a year makes. This time last year,
Details p84
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we were in the middle of a seemingly endless
t
t
e lockdown, frantically debating whether to go ahead
l
with our annual Restaurant Awards as the industry
s
’
r remained shuttered.
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This year, as we announce our 2023 finalists,
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d the industry is buzzing. Tourists are back, dining
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rooms are full, and new openings continue to raise
the bar and prove that the Australian dining is some
of the most dynamic and creative in the world.
That’s not to downplay the ongoing struggles
plaguing the industry – from chronic staff shortages
to brutal price hikes – but compared to the state of
the industry last year, things are much brighter.
And so, it is our great pleasure to celebrate the
industry this month and single out those that are
flying high and bringing joy to diners across Australia.
Next month, we will reveal our winners and
the full guide to Australia’s best restaurants at
a glamorous gala evening at Shell House in Sydney.
Until then, congratulations to all our finalists!
UR
O M
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WHAT GT LOVES THIS MONTH
D
APPRO VE
Apulian Skies Sodastream Art
We may still be welcoming spring Add a little spritz to your day with
but Alex and Trahanas have us this new retro-chic model from
ready to fire up the grill and Sodastream. Featuring a special
prepare an alfresco feast with their carbonation lever for extra pizazz,
newest collection, inspired by the this groovy number is a welcome
ancient olive groves and sparkling addition to any kitchen bench.
T). seas of Puglia. Bellissimo. sodastream.com.au
AI alexandtrahanas.com
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B S Sammy makes some of the best this beautifully presented gift box
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ND I cocktails in Australia. So it’s little of artisanal chocolates from
LA E surprise its new collaboration Loco Love. Plant-based and
A M
N O with Never Never Distilling – gluten-free, flavours include salted
A H
L a beeswax and olive gin – caramel with mesquite, wild rose
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AP neverneverdistilling.com.au locolove.com
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GOURMET TRAVELLER 9
Contributors
A new dawn
62
p
DILVIN YASA MARKUS RAVIK JESSICA BROOK K).
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writer photographer chef O
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Turkish Delight, p128 A new dawn, p62 Golden hour, p88 Y (
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Visiting her ancestral homeland Variety is the spice of life for Jessica Brook is a professional L
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of Istanbul to eat a months’ worth photographer Markus Ravik, who chef, food editor and stylist – A
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of breakfast in the space of five relishes the challenge of shooting and, most importantly, a regular N
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days is not an unusual undertaking something different every day. contributor to Gourmet Traveller. B
&
for journalist, author and TV So he was the perfect person to For this issue, Brook developed S)
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presenter DIlvin Yasa. “I’ve never capture Brisbane’s bustling Jan a collection of recipes ideal for K
R
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understood why you’d want to start Powers Farmers Market, which a slow Sunday morning at home. M
K (
the day with cereal when you can features in this issue. While there, “Pancakes, waffles and crumpets VI
A
delight in a conga-line of joyful Ravik was drawn to the friendly were a go-to Sunday ritual growing S R
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dishes, all so rich and varied in stallholders, market-goers and up, and I love these breakfast K
R
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flavour,” she explains. Dilvin visits overall sense of community, as batters.” says Brook. “They don’t M
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Istanbul at least once a year, in well as a regular busker named all have to rely on syrups to make H
P
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the hope she can eventually Daniel. “He is such a character them shine and are perfect either R
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convince her English husband and is always welcomed at the savoury or sweet, for breakfast T
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to stop putting milk in his tea. markets,” says Ravik. or even dinner.” H
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10 GOURMET TRAVELLER