ARTHUR FROMMER PURLICATION '495 1978-79 Edition Of IAlJH*|li^M^« ^ PREWREDFOR BiHHEiu zEaLanD If ti AN ARTHUR FROMMER PUBLICATION 1978-79 EDITION By JOHN GODWIN ^ PREPARED FOR BIFHEIU ZEBLanO Copyright © 1978 by ARTHUR FROMMER. INC. All rights reserved Published by ARTHUR FROMMER, INC. 380 Madison Avenue New York, New York 10017 Distributed by SIMON AND SCHUSTER A GULF+WESTERN COMPANY 1230 Avenue of the Americas Nev*/ York, New York 10020 0-671-24192-3 i Distributed outside the USA and Canada by FLEETBOOKS c/o Feffer and Simons, Inc. 100 Park Avenue New York, New York 10017 Distributed in Canada by P J PAPERBACKS LTD. 330 Steeicase Road East Markham, Ontario L3R2IVI1 Manufactured in the United States of America CONTENTS Introduction AUSTRALIA ON $15 A DAY 1 Why Australia? 1 A Capsule History 3 The Aborigines 12 Flora and Fauna 14 Chapter AUSTRALIA: A BUDGET SURVEY 17 1 The Currency 17 Climate—When to Come 17 Preparing for Your Trip 18 Travel Documents 18 What to Pack 19 Tourist Information 20 Where to Stay 22 The Youth Hostels 23 The Y's 23 Colleges 24 Camping and Trailer Parks 24 Farmhouse Holidays 24 Motels 24 Bed-and-Breakfast 25 Serviced Apartments 25 Where and What to Eat and Drink 26 What to Buy 29 What to Do 30 Active Sports 31 Evening Activities 32 Meeting the Aussies 33 Get in Touch 34 The ABCs of Australia 35 Chapter GETTING TO AND AROUND AUSTRALIA 40 II Getting to Australia 40 From America 40 From Britain 43 From New Zealand 43 Your Choice of Airline 46 Advice for Your Flight 46 Getting Around Australia 47 By Air 49 By Rail 50 By Bus 52 By Car 53 By Ship 56 Hitchhiking 57 Chapter SYDNEY 58 III The City and Surroundings 59 The Blue Mountains 84 New South Wales 85 The Snowy Mountains 86 Lightening Ridge 87 Chapter IV MELBOURNE 88 The City and Surroundings 88 The Dandenongs 106 Healesville 107 Phillip Island 107 Victoria 108 Ballarat 109 Swan 109 Hill The Gippsland Lakes 110 Chapter V ADELAIDE 111 The City and Surroundings 111 The Barossa Valley 120 South Australia 125 Coober Pedy 125 The Flinders Ranges 127 Chapter VI BRISBANE 128 The City and Surroundings 128 The Gold Coast 144 Chapter VII CAIRNS AND THE GREAT BARRIER REEF 155 The City and Surroundings 155 Queensland 170 The Sunshine Coast 172 Mount Isa 173 Chapter VIII PERTH AND THE FAR WEST 174 The City and Surroundings 174 Fremantle 186 West Australia 192 New Norcia 192 Coolgardie 193 The Kimberley Plateau 193 Chapter IX CANBERRA-THE NATIONAL CAPITAL 195 The City and Surroundings 195 The Mount Stromlo Observatory 206 Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve 207 Australian Capital Territory 210 Snowy Mountains Hydro-Electric Scheme 210 Cooma 211 Chapter X ALICE SPRINGS-"THE RED HEART" 212 The Town and Surroundings 212 The Royal Flying Doctor Service 219 Ayers Rock 223 The Northern Territory 227 Darwin 228 Chapter XI TASMANIA-THE ISLAND STATE 229 A Tour of the Island 232 Launceston 232 From Launceston to Port Arthur 235 Hobart 237 From Hobart to Devonport 245 MAPS Australia at a Glance 4 Air New Zealand Route Map 44-45 Getting Around Australia: Main Air Services 48 Getting Around Australia: Main Railways 51 Getting Around Australia: Main Highways 54 Sydney: City Center 60 Melbourne: City Center 90 Adelaide: City Center 113 Brisbane: City Center 130 The Gold Coast 144 Cairns: City Center 157 Perth: City Center 176 Canberra: City Center 198 Alice Springs 214 Tasmania 231 Hobart: City Center 238 READ THIS FIRST Thefirst questi—oneveryAustralian asked on hearing the title ofthisbook was, "Sounds good but can you do it?" The answer is Yes, absolutely, within the terms laid down by this entire long-standingseriesofbudgetguides. Thesetermsstipulatethatthe $15-a-Day cover only yo—ur basic trip expenses ofa clean bed and thre—e solid meals. All otheroutlays transportation, entertainment, shopping, etc. count as extras. Heremyjobwastocollect the information that willenable you togetthemost foryour money in every respect. This rule also applies tothe *'splurge" oppor- tunities I haveincluded in every chapter. They may beslightly abovethestrict budget bracket, but are economical in terms of value offered for the price. Budget travelers Down Under enjoy a tremendous advantage over their fellow tourists in America and Europe: they can disregard "hidden costs." Everypricedisplayedanywhereisexactlywhatyo—upay. Therearenoaddition- al taxes, service charges, or tips to reckon with additions which elsewhere may increaseyourbill by anything up to 25 percent. Thus whileat firstglance some Australian rates may seem as high as their U.S. equivalents, they're actually lower. This goes not only for services but also for store purchases and makes a heck ofa lot ofdifference in the long run. Thisbooktookfivemonthstoresearch, eventhoughIwasalreadyfamiliar with most oftheareasdescribed. I personally checked out every establishment mentioned. A large number of"possibles" were dropped by the wayside for a variety of reasons, sometim—es merely because the vibes were bad. So what you're getting is a selection not a listing. Whenever I have included a place solelybecauseitwasultra-economical, Isaysoplainlyinthetext. Thepurpose forincludingthematallwastogiveyouadownwardmargin,justasthesplurge spots provide you with an upward one. All prices, therefore, are accurate for the time at which they were gath- ered. Unfortunately they won't stay that way. We're caught in an age of inexorable inflation, a constant edging up ofliving costs that operates Down Under as it does everywhere else. Since the tourist industry is the sector in whichfood, wage, andfuelincreasesarefeltsharpest, it'smorethanlikely that some ofthe rates will have grown by the time you get there. However, since all the managements involved are essentially budget-oriented, they will still offer you, relatively speaking, the best deals available. Money value is a basic consideration ofthis book, but not the only one. Australiahasthingsthatcannotbeassessedindollars:dramaticbeauty,asense ofnewnessandadventure, thefascinatingdynamicsofayoungandfreesociety shapingitsfuture,andawonderfulspiritof"mateship"thatenfoldsnativesand visitors alike. I hopethatbyhelpingyouextractthemostfromyourmoney I canenable you to take a close-up glimpse ofan exciting human experiment in a part of the globe that has long been veiled by the "tyranny ofdistance." John Godwin Christmas, 1977 THANKS TO the peopleofthe Australian TouristCommission, the most dedicated, hardworking, painstaking and efficient bunch of government employees have ever encountered. My I special thanks go to John Richardson, Stan Marks, Ken Smith, WayneStorey, and Sonja Morris in Melbourne; toAlex Piechowiak and Maria Williams in Sydney; andto Robin Prestage in NewYork. Without their unflagging assistance, all-round know-how and talent for time schedules, this book might have been about a decade In the making. On the transportation side want to thank I Alex Parker of Air New Zealand for smoothing my flight both ways.