Auckland is the largest city in New Zealand and the main port of entry for international visitors. It is a sprawling, modern, busy city but not nearly so densely populated as other global cities of its same geographic size. The 60 square kilometers (23 square miles) that make up the region are home to 1¼ million people – one-third of New Zealand's population. Known as The City of Sails, it is built on a narrow isthmus that separates two harbors – the Manukau and Waitemata – and claims to have more boats per capita than any other city in the world. That's a fact that would be hard to dispute on a summer afternoon when the sky above the harbor is full of sails. Auckland has the largest Polynesian population of any city in the world. In addition to nearly 20% of the population being of Maori descent, many islanders from the Cooks, Tonga, Niue, and Samoa immigrated here during the 1960s and 1970s. While there are definite draws in the city center, I think the best...