Art of Charcuterie

400 Pages·2016·17.65 MB·English

the art of
charcuterie

the art of
charcuterie

JOHN KOWALSKI
The Culinary Institute of America
AND
JOHN WILEY & SONS, INC.
This book is printed on acid-free paper.
Copyright © 2011 by The Culinary Institute of America. All rights reserved
Photography copyright 2011 by Ben Fink
The Culinary Institute of America
President Dr. Tim Ryan ’77
Vice-President, Dean of Culinary Education Mark Erickson ’77
Senior Director, Educational Enterprises Susan Cussen
Director of Publishing Nathalie Fischer
Editorial Project Manager Lisa Lahey ‘00
Editorial Assistants Shelly Malgee ’08
Erin Jeanne McDowell ’08
Published by John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey
Published simultaneously in Canada
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Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data:
Kowalski, John, 1954-
The art of charcuterie / The Culinary Institute of America and John Kowalski.
p. cm.
Includes index.
ISBN 978-0-470-19741-7 (cloth)
1. Meat--Preservation. 2. Fishery products--Preservation 3. Cookery (Cold dishes) I. Culinary Institute of
America. II. Title.
TX612.M4K73 2010
641.7’9--dc22
2009013399
Printed in China
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
I would like to dedicate this book to my parents in
deep appreciation for the love and guidance they’ve
shown over my lifetime. They taught me that the
difference between the impossible and the possible
lies in a person’s determination. To my mother and
father — Maria and Mieczyslaw “Mitch” Kowalski.

cont
acknowledgments viii
introduction ix
CHAPTER ONE
equipment
1
CHAPTER TWO
spices, herbs, & seasonings
16
eCHnAPTER THREE ts
meats, poultry, & seafood
38
CHAPTER FOUR
sanitation
54
CHAPTER FIVE
curing & brining
70
CHAPTER SIX
smoking
124
CHAPTER SEVEN
forcemeats
146
CHAPTER EIGHT
sausages
202
CHAPTER NINE
condiments
274
resources 332 subject index 354
conversion tables 334 recipe index 377
glossary 344
acknowledgments
I would like to offer my deeply felt thanks to the following people. Many individuals
and organizations contributed generously to this work. Without them and their input,
this book would never have been started, let alone completed.
The administration, faculty, staff, and students of The Culinary Institute of
America all touched and infl uenced this work. Having the knowledge and abilities of
all these individuals at my disposal was an invaluable asset.
My son Michael Kowalski deserves special credit for his countless hours spent
editing drafts and giving focus to my writing, as well as providing occasional scientifi c
insight. Without his help, I would never have undertaken and fi nished the project.
Many thanks to my colleagues in the Garde Manger Department for supporting
my efforts and sharing their opinions and expertise.
The staff of the Food and Beverage Institute had a great deal to with the pro-
duction of this volume and deserve my thanks. In particular, Lisa Lahey and Maggie
Wheeler, who both gave me the fi nal push to commit to writing this book.
Nathalie Fisher for donating her hard work and time in the production of this
book.
My colleague Henry Rapp, for his friendship and professional advice, along
with supplying the recipes for Chicken Sausage with Plums and Ginger (page 251),
Chicken Sausage with Mushrooms and Asiago (page 246), and Buffalo Wing–Style
Sausages (page 244).
The following people played key roles in assisting with formula development, pho-
tography, or both: Kate Chappell, Sarah Thompson, Paige Bodtke, Laura Alexander,
and Paul Moncebo. I thank them for their patience and their ability to change mid-
stream with the recipes.
The following individuals and companies outside The Culinary Institute of
America also made important contributions to this work.
The stunning photography of Ben Fink graces the pages of this book and brings
life to it.
For sharing their knowledge and enthusiasm, I thank Bruce Armstrong from
Saratoga Food Specialties for his input on spices and fl avorings and Robert Rust and
Rust Associates for help with sausage making and casing information and the ideas
for moisture-enhanced fresh pork, turkey, and beef. Robert was my sounding board
and for that he deserves another thanks.
Doctor Roger Mandigo, University of Nebraska, for his input on sausage
formulation, meat emulsions, and batter technology.
For their help in providing equipment for this project, I thank Ted Vaughn and
World Pac International USA.
Dr. James Lamkey of Chris Hansen for his help with starter cultures and the
white mold for salamis.
My greatest thanks, however, go to my family, for putting up with me during the
frustrating and fruitful times I endured in this process and for their continuous support.
viii