Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - The Rose - Fragrance PDF
Preview Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - The Rose - Fragrance
Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions The Rose Glen O. Brechbill FRAGRANCE BOOKS INC. www.perfumerbook.com New Jersey - USA 2011 FFrraaggrraannccee BBooookkss IInncc.. @@wwwwww..ppeerrffuummeerrbbooookk..ccoomm Glen O. Brechbill “To my late father and beloved mother without them non of this work would have been possible” II ARRANTING FINE PERFUMECOMPOSITIONS- THEROSE© This book is a work of non-fiction. No part of the book may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission from the author except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews. Please note the enclosed book is based on Fragrance Ingredients by House ©. Designed by Glen O. Brechbill Library of Congress Brechbill, Glen O. Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - The Rose / Glen O. Brechbill P. cm. 323 pgs. 1. Fragrance Ingredients Non Fiction. 2. Written odor descriptions to facillitate the understanding of the olfactory language. 1. Essential Oils. 2. Aromas. 3. Chemicals. 4. Classification. 5. Source. 6. Art. 7. Twenty one thousand fragrances. 8. Science. 9. Creativity. I. Title. Certificate Registry # TXu1 - 364 - 187 Copyright © 2006 by Glen O. Brechbill All Rights Reserved PRINTEDIN THEUNITEDSTATESOFAMERICA 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 First Edition Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - The Rose About the Book What can I say about the rose. Of all the ingredients available to a perfumer it is my favorite. Widely con- sidered the most utilized aroma it can be found in most fine fragrances including functional household and per- sonal care type products. Compositional books on the art of fragrance if one can be found are rare. Two that appeared in the early ninetie’s were well constructed. However, the arrangements of visual elements or ingre- dients pertaining to the creative art contained data that would not be pleasing to one’s nose. Anyone familiar with an actual composition could tell in an instant that none of the formulas contained within these books would work. The arrangements were terrible plus misleading. Why would one put togeth- er a book containing misinformation you ask? The fragrance industry does not wish to teach the creative art to anyone outside the hands of a few. In a nutshell a composition is nothing more then a harmonic blend of pleas- ing materials in parts per thousand otherwise known as 100 percent that create a fragrance. In order to learn what the materials actually mean, and how they work together, takes years. One must serve in an officially sponsored apprenticeship to master this trade taking years. There are several fragrance schools including the ISIPCA in France along with one’s at Givaudan, International Flavors & Fragrances plus Symrise. Whether any of my fragrance compositions could actually be compounded let alone work is anyone’s guess. I do know each display’s the richness of the art to a degree that one rarely sees. A perfume formula is a care- fully guarded trade secret. A perfumer swears allegance to his employer to safeguard the company treasures. What each artist creates is owned by the fragrance house, and is classified as a trade secret. As a member of a secret society one also swears not to divulge any aspect of their craft to outsiders. Again, this is part of the rea- son why there are so few books available on the aroma art. Today the skill is being ruined by the natural perfumers who purchase a single book, and believe after read- ing it that they are experts on the art plus have the gall to call themselves a nose. Stefen Arctander’s is a fine one on the subject of essential oils. By itself, however, it doesn’t give one all the answers. I read over a hun- dred fragrance books before creating my first one titled as follows “A Reference Book on Fragrance Ingredients”. I am not an expert on this subject nor pretend to be. Here’s mine, and the obvious question is where is theirs? Many natural artists and I don’t mean all fail to take into account that many essential oil houses cut their natural materials otherwise known as boqueting to make money. Although well-intentioned folks many pos- sess little training nor knowledge. Most fail to understand the consequences of creating aromas with unknown health consequences. Many create their own materials with homemade stills, and pass off their creations as 100 3 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill percent natural. No one knows what long-term exposure to any fragrance material will do to one’s body over a long period of exposure. An official nose today known as a Perfumer is also at a disadvantage. Due to the folks at ( IFRA ) the indus- tries stooge, an artist today employs close to one hundred percent synthetic materials in his and her fine fra- grances and personal care blends. Utilizing little or no essential oils fine fragrances made today are deemed safer then one’s that were created a hundred years ago that utilized close to one hundred percent natural mate- rials. It is my opinion that sooner or later folks will have skin reactions to the synthetic blends. Again, no one has any idea what long term exposure to synthetic materials based on petroleum will in the long term due to one’s health, nor do the fragrance houses care. The fine art is being ruined by this Gestapo type agency indi- rectly through the major five players to create a nightmarish creative atmosphere. In turn it is getting close to impossible for a perfumer to incorporate natural materials or for that matter come up with something new. Most of these folks who inhabit positions outside the art possess little or no knowledge of what they are doing. This in itself is helping to ruin it. Unfortunately many years ago fragrance houses were run by perfumers. Today, fragrance houses are in the hands of sales, marketing, public relations, advertising, creative director’s who help create myths about what fragrances are and aren’t. The untruths along with increasingly more and more launches are fueling the indus- tries declining sales. Sadly the fine creative art is also in the decline. Not understanding it is part of the prob- lem. The other side of the coin is the folks who love it, don’t know it and are envious of those who do which again are the perfumers. Do my fragrances that are in this book work you next want to know? My answer to that of course is who knows. I do realize formulation books that you see today are for the most part misleading. Any one of my cre- ations can be endlessly changed, and adapted with experimenting. Taking into the account the cost for many of the materials I doubt whether any listed in this book could be made. However, that in a nutshell is the fine art of fragrance. I personally believe my mini index is a unique perspective to the goods and services that are available based on my main book. Again, the rose is my favorite aroma material. It is my personal belief that within the not too distant future of thirty to fifty years of time the fine art of fra- grance will have completely disappeared. High-speed computers plus automatic compounding machines will replace it. Each fragrance house has millions of compositions in their Libraries. A single successful fragrance can have tens of thousands of variations. This is part of the reason why there is nothing new today. An indi- vidual scent belongs to a fragrance family. To be in that family one has to be related to another fragrance. If one comes up with something different that I believe is not possible, a competitor will duplicate it with a gas- chromatography computer within a week. In today’s world there is nothing new except the endless hype showcasing something unique when in real- ity there is nothing new except cheaper, and cheaper fragrances that contain little or no essential oils including fewer aroma materials. This in a nut shell is why the fine art of fragrance is in danger of vanishing. 4 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - The Rose A World of Fragrance’s - The Rose 5 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill International Directory by Country & House Continent/Country/Fragrance House Continent/Country/Fragrance House Manuscript # 1 ( A - H ) Fiveash Data Management Fleurchem, Inc. Manuscript # 2 ( I - Z ) Fleurin, Inc. Flexitral, Inc. North America Florachem Corporation Florida Chemical Company, Inc. Canada Florida Worldwide Citrus Frencharoma Imports Co., Inc. The Spice Trader Good Scents Company United States Gorlin & Company Graham Chemical Corporation Alfa Chem American Society of Perfumers I.P. Callison & Sons Aromatic International LLC Innospec Inc. Artiste Flavor / Essence International Flavors & Fragrances Astral Extracts J & E Sozio, Inc. Bedoukian Research, Inc. Joint American Ventures in China Bell Flavors & Fragrances Berje Inc. MelChem Distribution Millennium Chemicals Carrubba Inc. Central States Chemical Marketing Natural Resourcing Champon Vanilla Norwest Ingredients Citrus & Allied Cookson & Hunt International Co. Oliganic Creative Fragrances Ltd. Pental Manufacturing DMH Ingredients Phoenix Aromas & Essential Oils Polarome International 6 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - The Rose Prima Fleur Brazil Rosetta Enterprises LLC Citral Oleos Essenciais Ltda. Sarcom Inc. J. Piltz & Cia. Ltda. Science Lab Sensient Technologies Corporation Petit Marie Sigma Aldrich Spectrum Chemicals Rai Ingredients Sundial Fragrances & Flavors Sunrose Aromatics Europe Texarome Belgium Treatt USA Inc. Trisenx, Inc. Synaco Group Uhe Company, Inc. Bulgaria Ungerer & Company Vesselino Trading Company Vigon International, Inc. Denmark Walsh, John D., Company, Inc. Wambesco Gmbh Central America France Mexico A.N.E.C. Esencias y Materiales Lozmat Adrian Industries SAS Albert Vielle SA Tecnaal Group Aromatic Collection Aromax South America Axxence SARL Argentina BFA Laboratories Barosyl S.A. Esarco Biolandes Parfumerie Euma Charabot & Company Inc. Fritzsche SAICA Clos D’Aguzon San Miguel Agici y F Diffusions Aromatiques Dulcos Trading Exaflor 7 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill H.Reynaud & Fils Hungary IPRA Fragrances Silvestris & Szilas Ltd. Interchim Italy Laboratoire Monique Remy Baller s.r.l. Mane SA Moraflor Produits Aromatiques Capua s.r.l. Muller & Koster Citroflor di G. PCAS Espira S.p.A Payan Bertrand SA Prodarom Farotti Essences srl Prodasynth Moelhausen S.P.A. Rhodia Organics Robertet SA Portugal SIPAA. Ch. Berthier Kruetz Helmut Sovimpex Symarome Spain Germany Bordas Destilaciones Chinchurreta Basf Cami de Fontainilles Dullberg Konzentra Gmbh Destilerias Munoz Galvez, s.a. Eramex Aromatics Gmbh Lluche Essence Frey & Lau Gmbh Ventos, Ernesto S.A. Lothar-Streck Switzerland Paul Kaders GmbH Essencia, Aetherische Oele AG Sensient Essential Oils Gmbh Firmenich Symrise GmbH & Co. KG Givaudan Fragrance Corporation Th. Gyer Gmbh & Co. KG Puressence Wuresten Inc. 8 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - The Rose The Netherlands Fruitarom Industries Brighten Colorchem, B.V. Nardev Flavodor Asia PFW Aroma Chemicals China United Kingdom China Aroma Chemical Co., Ltd. China Perfumer A & E Connock Ltd. Chinessence Ltd. Augustus OIls. Ld. HC Biochem British Society of Perfumers Hangzhou Aroma Chemical Co. Buckton Home Page Ltd. Shanghai M & U International De Monchy Aromatics, Inc. Tianjin Jiete Fine Chemical Co. Earth Oil Plantations Ltd. Hong Kong FD Copeland & Sons Ltd. Fine Chemical Trading Naradev Furest Day Lawson O’Laughlin Industries Global Essence Ltd. India Handa Fine Chemicals Ltd. Amen Organics JC Buck Ltd. Anthea Aromatics Pvt. Ltd. Anupam Industries Lionel Hitchen Ltd. B.S. Industries Quality Analysis Bansal Aroma SRS Aromatics Ltd. FFC Aroma Flowersynth Venus Enterprises GMPCT Mediterranean Gyran Flavours Israel Hermani Ex-Imp Corporation Hindustan Mint & Agro Products Agan Aroma & Fine Chemicals Aromor Flavors & Fragrances Ltd. Indian Spices 9 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill Kanta House Turkey Katyani Exorts Krupa Scientific Oregano Kuber Impex Ltd. Australia Narain Terpene & Allied Chemical Australian Botanical Products Organica Aromatics Pvt. Ltd. Cosmark P.P. Sheth & Co. Petitgara Chemicals Perfume & Flavor Manufacturers Premier Chemical Corporation Peter Jarvis Cosmetic Develop. Privi Organics Ld. W & W Australia Pty Ltd. Raj Aromatics Aroma Corporation Pacific Rim SAT Group Seema International Indonesia Shambhala Herbal & Aromatics Pvt. Shreeji Aroma Djasula Wangi Som Santi House Some Extracts Haldin Tadimetry Aromatics Pvt Ltd. Indesso Thakker Group Singapore Ultra International Limited U.K. Aromatic & Chemicals Taytonn Ptd Ltd. Korea Sri Lanka Castrading EOAS International M.X.D. Enterprise System Japan Nepal Basf Japan Ltd. Shambhala Herbal & Aromatics Pvt. Ltd. Kao Corporation Singapore Takasago International Corporation Taytonn Pte Ltd. Zeon Corporation 10 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com
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