Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - The Chypre's

647 Pages·2011·3.01 MB·English

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions
The Chypre’s
Glen O. Brechbill
Fragrance Books Inc.
www.perfumerbook.com
New Jersey - USA
2011
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Glen O. Brechbill
“To my late father and beloved mother without
them non of this work would have
been possible”
II
ARRANTING FINE PERFUMECOMPOSITIONS- THECHYPRE’S©
This book is a work of non-fiction. No part of the book may be used or reproduced in
any manner whatsoever without written permission from the author except in the case
of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews. Please note the enclosed
book is based on Fragrance Ingredients by House ©.
Designed by Glen O. Brechbill
Library of Congress
Brechbill, Glen O.
Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - The Chypre’s / Glen O. Brechbill
P. cm. 647 pgs.
1. Fragrance Ingredients Non Fiction. 2. Written odor descriptions to facillitate the
understanding of the olfactory language. 1. Essential Oils. 2. Aromas. 3. Chemicals.
4. Classification. 5. Source. 6. Art. 7. Twenty one thousand fragrances. 8. Science.
9. Creativity. I. Title.
Certificate Registry # TXu1 - 364 - 187
Copyright © 2006 by Glen O. Brechbill
All Rights Reserved
PRINTEDIN THEUNITEDSTATESOFAMERICA
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
First Edition
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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - The Chypre’s
About the Book
The Chypre is my favorite fragrance family. It can be found in men and women's fine fragrances with a
vriety of interpretations. Francois Coty the Founder of Coty, Inc., created his Chypre fragrance in 1917. It was
supposedly based on ingredients found in his home island of Cyprus located in the Mediterranean. In those
days a fine fragrance would contain close to one hundred percent of essential oils. There was no regulatory
agency ( IFRA ) that governed the use of materials such as we have today. The synthetic industry was in its
infancy, and would take several generations to mature into its present hated form.
The Chypre is a combination of woods, moss and citrus. Henceforth, thanks to this ground breaking fra-
grance, all perfumes in the chypre category contained some combination of a sparkling citrus note
( bergamot ), floral heart notes, and rested on bases of vetiver, oakmoss, labdanum and patchouli. Typically the
aromatic materials vetiver and labdanum would be found in the men's fragrances.
Unfortunately this wonderful family of scents has been slowly destroyed courtesy of the folks at the
International Fragrance Assocation. Indirectly by RIFM at the beheast of Givaudan, IFF, Firmenich, Symrise
and Takasago. The five biggest players control approximately eighty percent of the market. Several of these
houses started as essential oil concerns. Today, they produce synthetic materials, which are based on petrole-
um. A fine fragrance today can not incorporate many citrus materials, particularly bergamot plus natural oak-
moss and patchouli due to the over regulation of this once fine art.
One description describes Coty's remarkable scent as one that can be enjoyed only for its historical notori-
ety as the first perfume that opened the door for later, superior incarnations. The Coty Chypre stands alone as
an incredibly beautiful and complex scent. At once fresh and bracing, warm and woodsy, and softly floral,
Chypre dries down into what can only describe as a powdery butter. By inhaling the almost milky richness of
what's left behind, combined with a disquieting hint of civet, which adds enough funk to keep Chypre from sig-
nifying "old lady perfume."
Roja Dove ( The Professor of Perfume ) in his most recent book wrote "Coty managed to put the gentlest
whisper of orris, vanillin, and coumarin into this creation which gave it a note of intimate luxury redolent of the
warmth of soft intimacy where the shoulder joins the neck."
My book contains over 500 compositions. Do any of these work you ask? The fragrance industry does not
wish to teach the creative art to anyone outside the hands of a select few. A composition is nothing more then
a harmonic blend of pleasing materials in parts per thousand otherwise known as 100 percent. In order to learn
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Glen O. Brechbill
what the materials actually mean, and how they work together, takes years. One must serve in an officially
sponsored apprenticeship to master this trade. There are several fragrance schools including the ISIPCA in
France along with one’s at Givaudan, International Flavors & Fragrances plus Symrise. However, there are
only several job opening each year with dozens of qualified graduates. Only the best connected get into this
coveted profession.
A perfume formula is a carefully guarded trade secret. A perfumer swears allegiance to his employer to
safeguard the company treasures. What each artist creates is owned by the fragrance house, and is classified
as a trade secret. Thus no perfumer will ever display or publish a correct formulation book. As a member of
a secret society one also swears not to divulge any aspect of their craft to outsiders. Again, this is part of the
reason why there are so few books available on the aroma art. If one can find one the arrangements are awful
containing formulas from the 19th century in incorrect portions.
It is my opinion that sooner or later consumers will have skin reactions to the synthetic blends. Again, no
one has any idea what long term exposure to synthetic materials based on petroleum will in the long term due
to one's health, nor do the fragrance houses care. Again, the fine art of fragrance creation is being ruined by
( IFRA ) a Gestapo type agency indirectly through the major five players to create a nightmarish creative
atmosphere constantly strangling the perfumer's palette of aromatic materials.
In turn it is getting close to impossible for a perfumer to incorporate natural materials, or for that matter
come up with anything new. Most of the folks who inhabit positions outside the art possess little understand-
ing of what they are doing. Creative directors, evaluators, test panels, sales, marketing, advertising, public rela-
tions, and of course management create exaggerations which in certain circles could be construed as consumer
fraud.
Many years ago fragrance houses were run by perfumers. Today, fragrance houses are in the hands of the
above folks who help create myths about fragrances. The untruths along with increasingly more and more
launches are fueling the industries declining sales. Sadly the fine creative art is also in the decline. Banning
natural materials in lieu of synthetics and falsely claiming a fragrance contains essential oils is robbing the con-
sumer of a quality product. More and more fragrance launches plus improved versions of fragrances in fact
incorporate less and less aromatic materials. In certain cases this kind of misdirection can be found on the TNT
show Leverage. Not understanding the art is part of the problem. The other side of the coin is the folks who
love it, don't know it, and are envious of those who do create the scents.
Do my fragrances that are in this book work you next want to know? My answer to that of course is who
knows. I do realize formulation books that you see today are for the most part misleading. Any one of my cre-
ations can be endlessly changed, and adapted with experimenting. Taking into the account the cost for many
of the materials I doubt whether any listed in this book could be made. However, that in a nutshell is the fine
art of fragrance. It is my opinion that the composition itself should be an integral part of advertising, and mar-
keting of a fine fragrance. However, due to the paranoia in the fragrance industry governing a trade secret,
which is the composition, I doubt whether this will ever happen. In order to understand a formula one must
know at the very least several thousand aromatic materials.
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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - The Chypre’s
It is my opinion in the not too distant future of thirty to fifty years of time the fine art of fragrance will have
completely disappeared. High-speed computers plus automatic compounding machines will replace it. Each
fragrance house has millions of compositions in their libraries. A single successful fragrance can have thou-
sands of variations. The major players in the industry Givaudan, IFF and Symrise have opened fine art creative
centers in China, Brazil and India. Sooner or later due to cutting costs no one will know for sure the true source
of any given fragrance. A perfumer in China can create a fine fragrance for a Wall Mart or Chanel.
This is part of the reason why there is nothing new today. An individual scent belongs to a fragrance fam-
ily. To be in that family one has to be related to a fragrance in that family. If a perfumer comes up with some-
thing different which I believe is not possible, a competitor will duplicate it with a gas-chromatography com-
puter inside a week. In today’s fragrance world there is nothing new except the endless hype show casing some-
thing unique when in reality there is nothing new except cheaper, and cheaper fragrances that contain little or
no essential oils plus fewer aromatic materials.
As I said in my other books I was blacklisted by the fragrance industry through an unscrupulous former
employer many years ago. Due to the computer and the world wide web I have been able to display my cre-
ative talents to its fullest. No one has come knocking on my door seeking my services. If I can do this type of
original creative work, and am underemployed what does that tell you about this industry? Non of my books
will ever be printed. Due to the nature of the pdf file I can not sell a single copy without fear of unauthorized
distribution to other channels.
This book titled Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - The Chypre’s took over five months to create.
Others will follow. Careful study will display how similar many fragrances actually are, and why perfumers
are able to come up with new fine fragrances with several days of experimentation. As more fragrances are
being created they will eventually all smell alike because they are all alike.
Enjoy.
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Glen O. Brechbill
A World of Fragrance’s - The Chypre’s
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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - The Chypre’s
International Directory by Country & House
Continent/Country/Fragrance House Continent/Country/Fragrance House
Manuscript # 1 ( A - H ) Fiveash Data Management
Fleurchem, Inc.
Manuscript # 2 ( I - Z ) Fleurin, Inc.
Flexitral, Inc.
North America Florachem Corporation
Florida Chemical Company, Inc.
Canada Florida Worldwide Citrus
Frencharoma Imports Co., Inc.
The Spice Trader
Good Scents Company
United States Gorlin & Company
Graham Chemical Corporation
Alfa Chem
American Society of Perfumers I.P. Callison & Sons
Aromatic International LLC Innospec Inc.
Artiste Flavor / Essence International Flavors & Fragrances
Astral Extracts
J & E Sozio, Inc.
Bedoukian Research, Inc. Joint American Ventures in China
Bell Flavors & Fragrances
Berje Inc. MelChem Distribution
Millennium Chemicals
Carrubba Inc.
Central States Chemical Marketing Natural Resourcing
Champon Vanilla Norwest Ingredients
Citrus & Allied
Cookson & Hunt International Co. Oliganic
Creative Fragrances Ltd.
Pental Manufacturing
DMH Ingredients Phoenix Aromas & Essential Oils
Polarome International
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Prima Fleur Brazil
Rosetta Enterprises LLC Citral Oleos Essenciais Ltda.
Sarcom Inc. J. Piltz & Cia. Ltda.
Science Lab
Sensient Technologies Corporation Petit Marie
Sigma Aldrich
Spectrum Chemicals Rai Ingredients
Sundial Fragrances & Flavors
Sunrose Aromatics Europe
Texarome Belgium
Treatt USA Inc.
Trisenx, Inc. Synaco Group
Uhe Company, Inc. Bulgaria
Ungerer & Company
Vesselino Trading Company
Vigon International, Inc.
Denmark
Walsh, John D., Company, Inc.
Wambesco Gmbh
Central America
France
Mexico
A.N.E.C.
Esencias y Materiales Lozmat Adrian Industries SAS
Albert Vielle SA
Tecnaal Group Aromatic Collection
Aromax
South America Axxence SARL
Argentina BFA Laboratories
Barosyl S.A.
Esarco Biolandes Parfumerie
Euma
Charabot & Company Inc.
Fritzsche SAICA Clos D’Aguzon
San Miguel Agici y F Diffusions Aromatiques
Dulcos Trading
Exaflor
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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - The Chypre’s
H.Reynaud & Fils Hungary
IPRA Fragrances Silvestris & Szilas Ltd.
Interchim
Italy
Laboratoire Monique Remy
Baller s.r.l.
Mane SA
Moraflor Produits Aromatiques Capua s.r.l.
Muller & Koster Citroflor di G.
PCAS Espira S.p.A
Payan Bertrand SA
Prodarom Farotti Essences srl
Prodasynth
Moelhausen S.P.A.
Rhodia Organics
Robertet SA Portugal
SIPAA. Ch. Berthier Kruetz Helmut
Sovimpex
Symarome Spain
Germany Bordas Destilaciones Chinchurreta
Basf Cami de Fontainilles
Dullberg Konzentra Gmbh Destilerias Munoz Galvez, s.a.
Eramex Aromatics Gmbh Lluche Essence
Frey & Lau Gmbh Ventos, Ernesto S.A.
Lothar-Streck Switzerland
Paul Kaders GmbH Essencia, Aetherische Oele AG
Sensient Essential Oils Gmbh Firmenich
Symrise GmbH & Co. KG
Givaudan Fragrance Corporation
Th. Gyer Gmbh & Co. KG
Puressence Wuresten Inc.
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The Netherlands Fruitarom Industries
Brighten Colorchem, B.V. Nardev
Flavodor Asia
PFW Aroma Chemicals China
United Kingdom China Aroma Chemical Co., Ltd.
China Perfumer
A & E Connock Ltd. Chinessence Ltd.
Augustus OIls. Ld.
HC Biochem
British Society of Perfumers Hangzhou Aroma Chemical Co.
Buckton Home Page Ltd.
Shanghai M & U International
De Monchy Aromatics, Inc.
Tianjin Jiete Fine Chemical Co.
Earth Oil Plantations Ltd.
Hong Kong
FD Copeland & Sons Ltd.
Fine Chemical Trading Naradev
Furest Day Lawson
O’Laughlin Industries
Global Essence Ltd.
India
Handa Fine Chemicals Ltd.
Amen Organics
JC Buck Ltd. Anthea Aromatics Pvt. Ltd.
Anupam Industries
Lionel Hitchen Ltd.
B.S. Industries
Quality Analysis Bansal Aroma
SRS Aromatics Ltd. FFC Aroma
Flowersynth
Venus Enterprises
GMPCT
Mediterranean Gyran Flavours
Israel Hermani Ex-Imp Corporation
Hindustan Mint & Agro Products
Agan Aroma & Fine Chemicals
Aromor Flavors & Fragrances Ltd. Indian Spices
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