Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - Fragrance Ingredients

338 Pages·2010·1.23 MB·English

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions
Glen O. Brechbill
Fragrance Books Inc.
www.perfumerbook.com
New Jersey - USA
2009
Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com
Glen O. Brechbill
“To my parents & brothers family whose
faith in my work & abilities
made this
manuscript possible”
2
ARRANGINGFINEPERFUMECOMPOSITIONS ©
This book is a work of non-fiction. No part of the book may be used or reproduced in any man-
ner whatsoever without written permission from the author except in the case of brief quotations
embodied in critical articles and reviews.
Designed by Glen O. Brechbill
Library of Congress
Arranging FinePerfume Compositions / Glen O. Brechbill
P. cm. 338 pgs.
1. Fragrance Ingredients Non Fiction. 2. Written odor descriptions to facillitate the
understanding of the olfactory language. 1. Essential Oils. 2. Aromas. 3. Chemicals.
4. Classification. 5. Source. 6. Art. 7. Fragrances. 8. Science. 9. Creativity. I. Title.
Certificate Registry # 1 - 200445731
Copyright © 2009 by Glen O. Brechbill
All Rights Reserved
PRINTEDIN THEUNITEDSTATESOFAMERICA
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
First Edition
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3 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions
About The Book
What can I say about a fine perfume. Of course the art of creating a fine fragrance in this industry is a very
carefully guarded craft. In order to learn how to assemble a formula takes a very good memory, talent and years
of hard work. In fact the three leaders in the industry including Givaudan, IFF and Symrise have their own
schools where a student apprentices under a master perfumer.
A fine fragrance is nothing more then an assemblage of pleasing materials that together works harmoniously in
a blend. I decided to add my arrangements in order to display the art as simple as it is complex. If one works
a composition as a percentage of various materials a fine fragrance formula can be deciphered.
Unfortunately one will very rarely find any compositions on the world wide web. Part of this is due to the para-
noia within the industry. A material understanding will allow you to decipher the complexity of just about any
fragrance excluding Estee Lauder's Beautiful. Creating a formula with fifteen or more pages just over compli-
cates the art, and of course the fragrance. I decided to add my personal classification of aroma chemicals
through the book to help explain the simplicity of a creation and each fragrance family's uniqueness. Any given
material can play an important role, or a subordinate one. Again, that is the nature of the creative art.
Personally I believe a fine fragrance can be assembled utilizing a page and a half of various materials. What
works together in a blend depends on skill and in part luck by the artist. Most fragrance houses in the states
utilize test panels. Trying to get a scent created with endless critics further degrades the fine art. Asking some-
one a pointed question the answer can be what you want to hear, but not necessarily the truth.
Fragrance launches today are to many often tied to stars and gimmicks. Chandler Burr in his recent book show
casing the industry states the business needs to get back to its roots. I think he is one hundred percent correct
in his assessment. The miss truths put out by the marketing, public relations and ad advertising folks ads to the
declining sales and many failures.
Whether any particular fragrance in my book works is unknown. However, I do know one will not find a finer
collection of fragrance compositions anywhere on the internet. The craft and its art are that highly prized. If
one finds a book the formulas are either old, useless or misleading further obfuscating the art.
Enjoy presentation into the creative art.
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Glen O. Brechbill 4
Index
Index Pages
Copyright 2
About the Book 3
Index 4 - 5
Fragrance Families 6 - 13
Fragrance Pyramid 14 - 16
Costing Out a Fragrance 17
Floral Fragrance Chemicals 18 - 28
Floral Floral Compositions 29 - 60
Floral Bouquet Compositions 61 - 68
Green Fragrance Chemicals 69 - 72
Floral Green Compositions 73 - 92
Fruit Fragrance Chemicals 93 - 96
Floral Fruit Compositions 97 - 120
Rose Fragrance Chemicals 121 - 126
Violet Fragrance Chemicals 127 - 130
Jasmin Fragrance Chemicals 131 - 132
Floral Fresh Compositions 133 - 141
Floral Sweet Compositions 142 - 148
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5 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions
Floral Aldehydic Compositions 149 - 160
Chypre Floral Compositions 161 - 164
Chypre Fresh Compositions 165 - 172
Chypre Fruity Compositions 173 - 180
Musk Animalic Fragrance Chemicals 181 - 184
Chypre Floral Animalic Compositions 185 - 192
Chypre Green Compositions 193 - 204
Floriental Compositions 205 - 208
Oriental Sweet Compositions 209 - 212
Oriental Spicy Compositions 213 - 224
Masculine Fragrance Families 225 - 228
Herbaceous Fragrance Chemicals 229 - 231
Lavender Fresh Compositions 232 - 235
Lavender Spicy Compositions 236 - 239
Fougere Fresh Compositions 240 - 243
Fougere Floral Compositions 244 - 251
Fougere Woody Compositions 252 - 255
Fougere Sweet Compositions 256 - 259
Oriental Sweet Compositions 260 - 263
Spice Fragrance Chemicals 264 - 266
Oriental Spicy Compositions 267 - 270
Woody Fragrance Chemicals 271 - 274
Chypre Woody Compositions 275 - 290
Moss, Amber & Tobacco Fragrance Chemicals 291 - 292
Chypre Coniferous Compositions 293 - 296
Leather Fragrance Chemicals 297 - 298
Chypre Leather Compositions 299 - 302
Chypre Fresh Compositions 303 - 306
Chypre Green Compositions 307 - 310
Citrus Fragrance Chemicals 311 - 319
Citrus Floral Compositions 320 - 323
Citrus Fantasy Compositions 324 - 327
Citrus Fresh Compositions 328 - 331
Citrus Green Compositions 332 - 335
Bibliography 336 - 338
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Fragrance Families
CLASSIFICATION IS VARIED, and their are new sub-divisions constantly being added. Keep in mind the sub-
groups are part of the below families. Tastes and popularity of any particular group can vary from coun-
try to country. With the launch of more, and more fine fragrances the market is getting increasingly over satu-
rated. Employed today one will find a lot of marketing hype. This includes of course the use of movie stars,
personalities, custom bottles, and fancy packaging.
Fine fragrances can be categorized in several different aroma groupings. All scents no matter how unique
and distinct fall into fragrance families that include Floral, Chypre, Oriental, Lavender, Fougere and Citrus.
They are further divided between women, and men. Listed below are the original families as outlined by
Haarman & Reimer.
Feminine Notes
Floral Family:
The largest family of fine fragrances is by far the florals. Floral notes can find their way into the heart of
many fragrances. A floral fragrance can be classified as light, green, floral, and heavy. Scents in this family
include violet, carnation, rose, gardenia, lily of the valley, tuberose and narcissus. A light fragrance is often
described as springtime flowers like Lily of the Valley, Lilac and Freesia often with citrusy or fruity top notes.
Green accords can also be based on Muguet, and other leafy stem like materials sometimes based on herba-
ceous, earthy notes like Galbanum.
Narcotic floral effects can be achieved by blending different floral materials with rose notes plus adding
exotic Ylang-Ylang, Methyl Benzoate, and other diverse floral materials. They are often found in southern cli-
mates than in more northerly regions, and are thus considered heavy. These include, first and foremost, Jasmin
represented by Benzyl Acetate, Hedione to name a few of the fragrance ingredients that are available to a cre-
ative artist.
Other exotic types include Tuberose, Orange Blossom and Narcissus. Floral notes in this family can also
be balsamic such as Hyacinth. Various violet compounds are a favorite addition to many compositions. The
fragrances included in this group enjoy the greatest acceptance around the world. Many formulas display dis-
tinctive accords that are reminiscent of their natural counter parts. It can be made up of a wide variety of flo-
ral bouquets, or a certain note which predominates. The floral family has six main sub divisions as Floral,
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7 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions
Green, Fruity, Fresh, Aldehydic and Sweet.
Floral Floral
A floral fragrance owes its nature to flower blossoms that may differ from one another. Rose materials such
as Citronellol, Geraniol, and Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol predominate. Again Jasmine in combination with rose
ingredients are the central part of this theme. By adding carnation, ylang-ylang, tuberose, iris and others a pure-
ly floral effect can be achieved. Today more synthetic ingredients including the use of artificial bases are uti-
lized due to the high cost and unavailability of essential oils. For example, a fine fragrance such as Chanel # 5
created by Ernst Breaux in 1923 would smell entirely different today.
Floral Green
A floral green fragrance are natural in nature compounded by blending of herbs, ferns, mosses and citrus
fruits. This group is characterized of typical botanical fragrance notes, like those of leaves, stalks or freshly
mown grass as well as cucumber-violet-like green notes. Generally relying on parts of plants, and flowers such
as Muguet, or Lily of the Valley. They can be delicate as Muguet or have a strong stem like note characteristic
of Styrallyl Acetate or Cyclamen Aldehyde. Green is often used to describe lush forests, fallen leaves during
the autumn, a woodland meadow, or grassland. They can be further subdivided under Fresh and Balsamic.
Galbanum or Olibanum would be in the later family, or the can be a green accord such as Cassis.
Floral Fruity
A fragrance of a floral fruity type can be achieved by blending fruity elements of a single fruit or a com-
bination of two or more of which one can dominate. Apple accords that include, peach, apricot, pineapple, cas-
sis, prune, strawberry, and raspberry. Mixed with fine floral ingredients that include jasmine, violet, hyacinth
and others provide a rich show case of what can be achieved within this family. Becoming more popular each
day is the utilization of Papaya, and Passion Fruit. These perfumes are known to have a clean fruit quality and
a soft warmth.
Floral Fresh
A flower that is found in nature can be fresh, yet sweet and green. This is part of the classification of fine
fragrances that is open to interpretation. Some suggest that this type of fragrance can be based on hyacinth, lily
of the valley and orange blossom with a fresh fruity note of Bergamot and other citrus materials. Jasmine based
on Benzyl Acetate or Hedione can also be part of the theme.
Floral Aldehydic
Floral aldehydic compounds were discovered in the 19th century. Aldehydes have a powerful diffusive
effect, and are characterized by a rich opulent top note. In small parts certain aldehydes are used as a top note
effect simulating a variety of floral scents that are found in nature. Muguet or Lily of the Valley based on
Hydroxycitronellal is a popular example. Utilizing aldehydes provide modern accords with a richness and
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Glen O. Brechbill 8
depth. The first fine fragrance utilizing a large percentage of synthetic components was Chanel # 5 created by
Ernest Beaux for Coco Chanel. Other sub groups can include woody and powdery notes that are a combina-
tion of Anisic Aldehyde, and Cedarwood Oil of Virginia.
Floral Sweet
A floral sweet fragrance is often described as a floriental. Fragrances in this family can include gardenia,
jas mine, freesia, and orange flower. A fine sweet fragrance can be based on Benzyl Salicylate, Hexyl
Cinnamic Aldehyde, Vetiver including exotic spices and their essences.
Chypre:
The term Chypre was coined by Francois Coty who created the original perfume in 1917. They were based
on aroma materials that had an origin from Mediterranean countries. Mr. Coty was born on the island of Cyprus
thus he came up with his namesake Chypre. The concept is based on a citrus fresh accord and moss. Originally
the accord was founded on Bergamot Oil although scents in the family can include clary sage, lavender,
patchouli and resins. The scents feel perfect for those who enjoy the fresh outdoors. In women's fragrance
there are five main subdivisions that include Floral, Fresh, Fruity, Musk and Green.
Chypre Floral
Keeping this concept true to form the rose is used as a dominate theme. In my book titled, A Reference
Book On Fragrances I have a sub division that lists over 200 rose materials. Also used is a Gardenia accord
that can be artificially recreated using a Jasmin rose theme with Styrallyl Acetate as a predominate green note.
Chypre Fresh
The term fresh is open to a wide variety of interpretations. Fresh can be floral directed having its origins
in many different flowers, and of course with citrus top note components. With time this term has become
increasingly generic in its use.
Chypre Fruity
This concept is characterized by a predominate fruitiness often having a peach like fragrance. It is more
pronounced in this group having components that are inherent to this family.
Chypre Floral Musk
There are several popular animal notes that are employed in modern perfumery today. Musk was original-
ly obtained from the musk deer native to Asia. In dilution otherwise known as a tincture it has a distinctive ani-
mal like note. Civet is a cat native to Ethiopia in Africa. The animal has a gland that produces a sweet urine
musk like odor that produces a velvety nuance to many fragrance blends in trace amounts. A third is Ambergris
produced by the sperm whale. Often this material gray in color is found washed up on the shores of beaches
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9 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions
around the world after being vomited by the whale. A pound of this material can bring a King's ransom. Today
most of the musk like animal materials are produced synthetically. Fine representations of this group include
Galaxolide 50, Ethylene Brassylate including Cashmeran, and Nepalva. Materials that include Phenyl produce
a musk like honey fragrance.
Chypre Green
A delightful concept, and one of my favorites is the Green theme. It is always open for experimentation
and interpretations. Generally a wide variety of floral components are incorporated into this arrangement with
a greenness based on Galbanum, Muguet, or Lily of the Valley, with strong green like synthetic notes. Often
added are herbaceous coniferous traces to round off this accord.
Oriental Family:
The Oriental family of fragrances is often referred to as Amber. These perfumes have a strong, musky, spicy
scent that often conjure up memories of Arabia and India. They are rich, heavy and diffusive. The sweetness
can be derived from vanilla, sandalwood to name a few. Combining floral ingredients they are mysterious and
sensual. The first Oriental was Jicky created by Guerlain in 1889. This group contain aroma materials often
are reminiscent of the Far East. There's a wide range of interpretations some flowery related whereas others
have a heavy spicy theme.
Oriental Sweet
An oriental sweet scent can have a citrus top note and a sweet vanilla amber foundation. Vanillin, and Ethyl
Vanillin both aldehydes can be used up to 10 % providing that extra sweetness. One can also utilize Balsam
Peru Oil, Vanilla Tincture, Vanilla Sur Abs. C'Less MD in conjunction with Benzyl family of materials.
Oriental Spicy
Incorporating spicy ingredients often from Indian can include clove, nutmeg and carnation, cardamom and
curry. Adding musk materials that can include floral accords such as jasmine and ylang-ylang tend to provide
a delicate touch to this group. The notes can be bitter, or contain sweet elements A fragrance in this area is dis-
tinctive, and can be enjoyed by both men and women. Many perfumers add balsamic notes derived from bal-
sam materials including resinous notes derived from Balsam Peru.
MEN'S FRAGRANCES TODAY ARE OPEN TO A MYRIAD of interpretations based on Lavender, Fougere, Oriental,
Chypre and Citrus. The Oriental, and Chypre group shares a common theme with women's fragrances.
Lavender Family:
Masculine Notes
The fragrances are comprised of a union of lavender, or lavandin notes atop a mossy base with a citrusy
freshness. Fougere Royale by Houbigant was the first scent in this class. The Lavender and Fougere families
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Glen O. Brechbill 10
are similar often incorporating aroma materials that can be found in either theme. Originally it was intended
for women, but soon found its way to the men's side. Having fresh lavender as the main part of the fragrance
there is less room for creative interpretation. Both fresh and spicy themes predominate.
Lavender Fresh
This group is categorized by a predominate Lavender accord. Supporting notes can come from many areas
opening up this theme to a wide range of creative interpretations.
Lavender Spicy
Again Lavender is the dominate theme. However added to it is a pine like spiciness with a herbaceous tone
centered on the fresh flower. It is generally found its way in many masculine applications possessing a wide
range of different themes.
Fougere Family:
The French word for Fern is Fougere. Ferns found in nature have very little odor. Generally the concept is
based on herbaceous materials that include Coumarin, Oak Moss, Lavender and Geranium. They are aromatic
often with a camphoraceous, minty, eucalyptus like with an earthy nuance. They are usually found on low-
growing, unobtrusively blossoming plants. Other examples include rosemary, sage as well as peppermint and
lavender. It also can be quite representative of a woodland accord.
Fougere Royale first introduced by Houbigant in 1882 was the start of this family. A composition can uti-
lize a wide range of aromatic chemicals as mentioned above including a variety of herbs, geranium and ferns.
The group was originally intended for the feminine market. However, it soon found its way to the men's side of
the fragrance isle. There are four sub-divisions in this group headed by Floral, Fresh, Woody and Sweet themes.
Fougere Fresh
This group has a predominate lavender freshness. Many of today's fragrances have utilized a dry-fresh
approach that can often incorporate a variety of different accords.
Fougere Floral
The fougere floral theme can incorporate a variety of different components. This can include combinations
of dry fresh lavender often utilizing muguet, cyclamen and spicy woody notes.
Fougere Woody
This is a predominate woody theme. However, to keep the fragrance a fougere woody materials have to be
used that are part of this group. Sub divisions within this family can include ones with a leather, tobacco and
animal materials.
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