AmZONA HANDBOOK Bia WEIR ^ -> tr AmzoTiK TRAVEIER HANDBOOKS Second Edition Digitized by the Internet Archive 2012 in http://archive.org/details/arizonatravelers00bill_1 ^RIZOMK TRAVELER HANDBOOKS BILL WEIR nnc©n PUE)LICPTION6 Pleasesend all comments, corrections, additions, amendmentsand critiquesto: BILLWEIR MOON PUBLICATIONS 722 Wall Street ARIZONA TRAVELER'S HANDBOOK Chico, CA 95928, USA Publishedby Moon Publications 722Wall Street Chico, California 95928, USA tel. (916) 345-5473/5413 Printedby Colorcraft Ltd., Hong Kong © Copyright 1987 BillWeir Libraryof Congress Cataloging in Publication Data Weir, Bill, 1951- [Arizona handbook] PRINTING HISTORY Arizonatraveler'shandbook/ BillWeir. SEPTEMBER 1986 Bibliography: p.425 AUGUST 1987 Includesindex. MARCH 1988 ISBN 0-918373-16-6 1. Arizona—Descriptionandtravel—1981- —- Guide-books. I.Title. F809.3.W44 1987 87-19994 917.9r0453-dc19 CIP Printed in Hong Kong Allrightsreserved. Nopartofthisbookmaybetranslatedorreproducedinanyform,exceptbriefex- tractsbyareviewerforthepurposeofareview,withoutwrittenpermissionofthecopyrightowner. Althoughtheauthorand publishershavemadeeveryefforttoensuretheinformationwascorrectat thetimeofgoingtopress,theauthorandpublishersdonotassumeandherebydisclaimanyliabilityto anypartyforanylossordamagecausedbyerrors,omissions,oranypotentialtraveldisruptiondueto labororfinancial difficulty,whethersucherrorsoromissionsresultfromnegligence,accidentorany othercause. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Manythanksgotothehundredsofpeoplewhoassisted inmakingtheArizonaTraveler's Handbookascompleteandaccurateasitis. IamespeciallyindebtedtotheNational Park Service people, whose high standards make Arizona's national parks and monuments such wonderful placestovisit. Staffatthe U.S. Forest Service, Bureauof Land Manage- ment,andU.S. FishandWildlifeServicegavemeconsiderablehelpinvisitinglandsunder theircare. Stategovernmentofficialshelpedtoo,andextrathanksgotoCarolDowneyof theresearchlibraryintheCapitolandtostaffoftheFortVerdeandJeromeStateHistoric Parksforgeneroususeoftheirhistoricphotos.Chambersofcommerce,inthetiniestcom- munities as well as the cities, supplied valuable maps, ideas, and advice. The Arizona Traveler's Handbook manuscript showed some dramatic improvements from the first draftstothelast,thankstotheenthusiasmandeditorialskillsofDekeCastlemanatMoon Publications, whoalso proofreadthefinal version; Dr. Thomas Kreiderat Berea College, Kentucky; and my mother, DorisWeir. MostoftheArizonaanimalsand birdsthatgrace thesepagesweredrawn byfellowFlagstaffhiker KayStephenson. Diana Lasichalsoput her brush to work when 9additional drawingswere needed atthe last moment. Barton Wright kindlygavepermissiontousehisexcellentHopi Reservation map.Theothertop- notchmapscamefromthesteadyhandsofDaveHurstandLouiseFooteatMoonPublica- tions. LouiseShannontypesetthetextonamad-hatterschedulesoDaveHurstandAsha Johnsoncoulddotheproduction. Muchofthecreditforgettingthisbooktoyougoesto Sales Manager Donna Galassi. And lastly, appreciation is due my publisher, Bill Dalton, whoinspiredArizonaTraveler'sHandbookandhelpedbringittoasuccessfulcompletion. , ILLUSTRATIONS AND PHOTOS frontcover: ViewofHowlandsButteintheGrandCanyon;takenbytheauthorfronnEast TontoTrail, blackandwhitephotos-: ArizonaOfficeofTourism—pages39,78,94,139, 222,244,321;ArizonaStateArchives pages9(right),13, 14,19,34(bottom),87,89,108 (bottom),109,207(right),233,318,351 (left&right),404,405(top),407,411,414,417,422 (right),423(top); FlagstaffChamberofCommerce-pages24,29,93, 119, 125(top), 126, 131, 132, 137, 138, 164, 165, 169, 173 (U.S. Forest Service); Fort Verde State Historic Park—pages 11, 163, 176 (National Archives), 177 (Mearns Collection, Library of Congress),178(left:MearnsCollection,LibraryofCongress),181,243(right:CarterCollec- tion,NationalArchives),315,335(CarterCollection,NationalArchives);GrandCanyonNa- tionalPark-pages3(neg.#2784),33(neg.#5117),35(neg.#826),41 (neg.#3121),45(neg. #5130), 52 (neg. #2361), 58 (neg. #5563), 59 (neg. #7080); Jerome State Historic Park-pages 185, 186(left&right), 187(top&bottom), 188, 189, 190; MetropolitanTuc- son Convention andVisitors Bureau, Inc.—pages365, 366,373,380(top&bottom),381 (bottom),391,408;MohaveCountyHistoricalSociety(Kingman)-pages68(top),201,205 (left&right),206,207(left),208,216,219(top),229;PhoenixGazette(reprintedwithper- mission)—page 253; Pimeria Alta Historical Society (Nogales)—pages 110, 396 (Rochlin Archives), 397 (Ellen Underwood Collection), 399 (Rochlin Archives), 401 (left & right); TonyRose-pages63,64; BillWeir-pages6(right),7(top),9(left), 1 (right), 17,21,22, 23,44,48,49,56,57,65,66,67,68(bottom),69,73,77,79,86,90,92,96,98,99,100(left& right), 101, 103, 105, 106, 125(bottom), 127, 129, 133, 135, 141, 142, 143, 144, 148, 149, 161, 170, 171 (left&right), 175, 178(right), 179, 195,198,200(left&right),209,212,213, 214(left&right),215,217,218,219(bottom),220,224,225,230,234(top&bottom),236, 238,240, 247,251, 252, 254(top &bottom),256, 260,261,262,263,274,275,276,279, 280,282,283,288,289,290,291,292,293,294,296,297,298,303,305,306,307,311,322, 323,325,331,332,333,339,343,344,345,346,348,349(leftErright),350,359,360,361& 363(topa-bottom),367,370,371,375,378,381 (top),385,386,387,388,389,392(left right),394,395,400,402,405(bottom),409,412,415(topEfbottom),416,418,419,420, 412517,,412583,(1b5o9t,to1m6)0,;4A2n4d,y44M9o.siielrl,usctarrattoioonniss:t—DipaangaesLa5s,i7ch(-bopttaogme)s,3307,7;32Ka(lyefSttEje-prihgehtn)s,o1n5—4, titlepageand pages6(left),8(left),31 (leftEfright),62,97(leftEfright), 117(leftEfright), 130,204,221 (left&right),239,243(left),266,267,273,284,285,326,328,340,341,384, 390, 403. major sources of historic illustrations: The Marvellous Country; or Three YearsinArizona andNewMexico, theApache'sHome by Samuel Cozzens—pages 10 (left),12,121,241,299,302,313,329,334,353,357,393,422(left); TheExplorationofthe ColoradoRiverandItsCanyons,formerlytitledCanyonsoftheColorado, byJ.W. Powell; reprintedbyDoverPublications-pages1,27,34(top),42,47,51,60,61,71,72,75,81,82, 83, 85, 91, 107, 114, 115, 316; DecorativeArtofthe Southwestern Indians by Dorothy Smith Sides, Dover Publications-pages 104, 112, 136, 156, 246, 271, 352. CONTENTS INTRODUCTION 1 TheLand 1 Floraand Fauna 5 History 8 Events 15 Transport 15 AccomnnodationsandFood 18 -. Money, Measurements,andCommunications 20 Healthand Help 21 GRAND CANYON ANDTHE ARIZONASTRIP 27 Introduction 27 VisitingtheGrandCanyonNationalPark 35 HavasupaiandHualapaiIndianReservations 65 TheArizonaStrip 69 NORTHEASTERN ARIZONA 83 Introduction 83 WesternNavajoCountry 89 NorthernNavajoCountry 91 EasternNavajoCountry 96 HopiCountry 107 HopiKatsinam 112 NORTHCENTRALARIZONA 115 Introduction 115 Flagstaff 119 EastofFlagstaff 137 NorthofFlagstaff:TheSanFranciscoVolcanicField 139 WestofFlagstaff 152 SouthofFlagstaff 157 SedonaandtheRedRockCountry 164 AlongtheVerdeRiver 176 Prescott 191 WESTERN ARIZONA 201 Introduction 201 TheNorthwestCorner 208 LakeMeadNationalRecreationArea 217 WestcentralArizona 222 TheSouthwestCorner 231 SOUTHCENTRALARIZONA 241 Introduction 241 PhoenixandtheValleyoftheSun 244 PhoenixSights 247 Scottsdale 255 Tempe 257 Mesa 262 ValleyoftheSunAccommodations 264 ValleyoftheSunRestaurants 267 ValleyoftheSunEntertainment 272 ValleyoftheSun Recreation 274 OtherValleyoftheSun Practicalities 279 NortheastofPhoenix 285 EastofPhoenix:TheApacheTrail Loop 293 SouthofPhoenix 304 SouthwestofPhoenix 307 NorthwestofPhoenix 308 EASTERN ARIZONA 313 Introduction 313 TheHigh Desert 317 PetrifiedForestNationalParkandthePaintedDesert 321 TheWhiteMountains 326 EastoftheWhiteMountainApacheIndianReservation 337 TheLowDesert 346 SOUTHERN ARIZONA 353 Introduction 353 Tucson 354 WestofDowntown 364 NorthofDowntown 366 EastofDowntown 370 TucsonAccommodations 372 TucsonRestaurants 375 OtherTucsonPracticalities 377 WesttoOrganPipeNational Monument 384 SouthfromTucsontoMexico 391 PatagoniaandVicinity 402 CochiseTrail(SoutheastofTucson) 404 BOOKLIST 425 INDEX 433