A Q A G C S E D e si g n and Technology text il technology Orders: please contact Bookpoint Ltd, 130 Milton Park, Abingdon, Oxon OX14 4SB. Telephone: +44 (0)1235 827720. Fax: +44 (0)1235 400454. Lines are open from 9.00 to 5.00, Monday to Saturday, with a 24-hour message-answering service. You can also order through our website www.hoddereducation.co.uk If you have any comments to make about this, or an y of our other titles, please send them to [email protected] British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this title is available from the British Library ISBN: 978 1 444 123 722 First Edition Published 2011 This Edition Published 2011 Impression number 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Year 2016, 2015, 2014, 2013, 2012, 2011 Copyright © 2011 Rose Sinclair and Hermione Lewis All rights reserved. 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A Q A G C S E D e si g n and Technology text il technology Bryan Williams series editor: Rose Sinclair Hermione Lewis iii This page intentionally left blank Contents Chapter 1 Designing skills 1 Chapter 2 Making skills 38 Chapter 3 Values 69 Chapter 4 Fibres and fabrics 76 Chapter 5 Finishing processes 120 Chapter 6 Components 147 Chapter 7 Product analysis 155 Chapter 8 Social, cultural, moral, health and safety 179 and environment issues Chapter 9 Processes and m anufacture 216 Chapter 10 Production planning 237 Chapter 11 ICT 252 Index 273 Acknowledgements Rose Sinclair would like to thank her husband Audley Sinclair for all his support and continued encouragement. Thanks are also due to the following schools for allowing their students’ coursework to feature in the book: Langley School for Girls, Bromley, Kent; Feversham College, Bradford; and St. Paul’s School for Girls, Birmingham. Rose would also like to thank the following teachers for their insight, help and support: Helen Jedlinska, Tracey Goodyear, Lesley Pollacko and Katie Miles. Also thanks to the editors at Hodder, Stephen Halder and Gemma Parsons, who helped it all happen. Hermione Lewis would like to thank Sabira Alim, Caitlin Comins, Vinothni Cumarasamy, Chloe Ogbonna-Marks, Georgia Haigh, Mohini Patel and Ella Thorold for use of student work; and Graham Stapleton, Principal of Graveney School for his support during a challenging period. The authors and publishers would like to thank the following for use of photographs in this volume: Figure 1.17 CandyBoxPhoto – Fotolia; Figure 1.25 anne kyyrö quinn; Figure 2.2 © Anthony Hatley/Alamy; Figure 3.1 Lidove noviny/Tomas Hajek/isifa/Getty Images; Figure 3.2 © Rob Crandall/The Image Works/www.topfoto.co.uk; Figure 3.3 Paul Chesley/Stone/Getty Images; Figure 3.4 Galina Barskaya – Fotolia; Figure 3.5 Public Record Office/HIP/www.topfoto. co.uk; Figure 4.12 The Woolmark logo is a registered trade mark of The Woolmark Company, which is owned by Australian Wool Innovation and indicates high quality of wool products. The Woolmark is an assurance by the manufacturer that a product is made of pure new wool. End products carrying these symbols have been tested by The Woolmark Company for compliance with its fibre content and performance specifications (Woolmark indicates 100%). The Woolmark is one of the most recognised symbols globally and represents the world’s largest fibre quality assurance scheme; Figure 4.13 ; Figure 4.14 weberfoto – Fotolia; Figure 4.19 © V&A Images; Figure 4.24 © RubberBall Selects/Alamy; Figure 4.31 © Alan Gallery/Alamy; Figure 4.43 © ra-photos/iStockphoto.com; Figure 5.1 Society of Dyers and Colourists; Figure 5.5 © Peter Alvey/Alamy; Figure 5.7 ITAR TASS/Bandphoto/UPPA/Photoshot; Figure 5.9 Fuse/Getty Images; Figure 5.12 reproduced with kind permission from Jayne March and Sarah Fox; Figure 5.13 Greentree – Fotolia; Figure 5.14 © Edwin Remsberg/Alamy; Figure 5.18 Andrzej Fryda – Fotolia; Figure 5.19 © Micha Adamczyk/iStockphoto.com; Figure 6.2 Photos reproduced with kind permission from Jayne March and Sarah Fox; Figure 6.3 Photos reproduced with kind permission from Jayne March and Sarah Fox; Figure 6.4 Photos reproduced with kind permission from Jayne March and Sarah Fox; Figure 6.5 Photos reproduced with kind permission from Jayne March and Sarah Fox; Figure 6.7a © Petre Milevski/iStockphoto.com; Figure 6.7b © Sean Locke/iStockphoto.com; Figure 6.8 YURY MARYUNIN – Fotolia; Figure 6.9 Simplicity; Figure 7.2 Donna Wilson; Figure 7.4 Cool Hunting Figure 7.5 © Diana Hirsch/iStockphoto.com; Figure 8.1 NASA; Figure 8.2 Crispian Woodgate/Daily Mail/Rex Features; Figure 8.3 Tony Kyriacou/Rex Features; Figure 8.5 EU Ecolabel; Figure 8.6 Fairtrade Foundation; Figure 8.7 © Colin Underhill/Alamy; Figure 8.9 Ray Tang/Rex Features; Figure 8.10 Trading Standards; Figure 8.14 Intertek; Figure 8.15 © thumb/iStockphoto.com; Figure 8.17 Contains public sector information published by the Health and Safety Executive and licensed under the Open Government Licence v1.0; Figure 9.8 Photos reproduced with kind permission from Jayne March and Sarah Fox; Figure 9.9 Photos reproduced with kind permission from Jayne March and Sarah Fox; Figure 9.10 ‘Birds & Flowers’ artwork by Helen Amy Murray. Digitally pri nted and hand sculpted silk. Photographed by Michael Duerinck for Vogue Magazine, 2005; Figure 9.11 Photos reproduced with kind permission from Jayne March and Sarah Fox; Figure 9.12 Photos reproduced with kind permission from Jayne March and Sarah Fox; Figure 9.13 BERNINA of America, Inc.; Figure 9.14 BERNINA of America, Inc.; Figure 9.15 Silver Viscount; Figure 9.16 Jose Manuel Gelpi – Fotolia; Figure 9.17 Dorling Kindersley/Getty Images; Figure 9.18 Photos reproduced with kind permission from Jayne March and Sarah Fox; Figure 9.19 Photos reproduced with kind permission from Jayne March and Sarah Fox; Figure 9.20 Photos reproduced with kind permission from Jayne March and Sarah Fox; Figure 9.21 Photos reproduced with kind permission from Jayne March and Sarah Fox; Figure 9.22 ABACA/Press Association Images; Figure 10.2 © Victoria Chukalina/iStockphoto.com; Figure 10.3 © Haze McElhenny/iStockphoto.com; Figure 10.5 Gareth Davies/Getty Images; Figure 11.2 Cotton Incorporated; Figure 11.3 Pantone® and other Pantone trademarks are the property of, and are used with permission of, Pantone LLC © Pantone LLC 2011. All rights reserved; Figure 11.5 Survey Monkey; Figure 11.8 Webspiration; Figure 11.11 Alan Ward – Fotolia; Figure 11.12 Bernina My Label images © Bernina International AG, www.bernina.co.uk; Figure 11.13 PHILIPPE PLAILLY/SCIENCE PHOTO LIBRARY; Figure 11.15 ITAR TASS/Bandphoto/UPPA/Photoshot; Figure 11.18 © Youssouf Cader/iStockphoto.com. Every effort has been made to trace and acknowledge the ownership of copyright. The publishers will be glad to make suitable arrangements for copyright holders whom it has not been possible to contact. chapter 1 Designing skills 1.1 Investigating the design opportunity/context Learning objectives By the end of this section, you should have a key understanding of: cchow to investigate the design opportunity and/or context ccthe place of research in the design process cchow to use mood boards as part of your design thinking skills cchow to defi ne your specifi cation and criteria. Project planning skills Key points The time allocated to complete your project is ccAnalytical skills 45 hours. Therefore, it is essential that you ccCommunication skills plan your project to know how long each ccCreative skills section will take. In the fashion and textiles ccValues industry, designers use specialist product data management (PDM; see page 266), which allows Introduction them to plan all aspects of a design project. For your own work, you may use either mind- The focus of Criterion one – investigating mapping software or spreadsheet software, the design context – is on your design, such as Microsoft® Excel® to produce a Gantt research and analysis skills; that is the ability chart, or a simple fl ow chart. You can refer back to sort through a wide range of written and to the time plan when you complete each task visual information. Your relevant fi ndings to remind yourself that you should spend the will be summarised and will assist you to majority of your time working on the areas worth make key decisions on how to develop your the most marks. Planning your time will help you design ideas in Criterion two. It is essential to properly evaluate the overall project in stages. at each stage of your research to clearly communicate what you did, how you did Knowledge link it and why you did it, to help you write For more information on product your design specifi cation at the end of this planning, see Chapter 10. section. For Criterion one you will be awarded a maximum of eight marks. This section of your design folder should be a total of fi ve pages and should be carried out in four hours. 1 AQA Design and Technology for GCSE: textiles technology UUFigure 1.1 A student’s example of a simple planning chart, illustrating how they planned their project The design task (brief) assessment task, you are given an open brief(s) by the examination board that can be adapted to The design brief outlines the requirements fit the context. specified by the client. In the controlled UUFigure 1.2 An example of an AQA controlled assessment context and design task 2 Designing skills UUFigure 1.3 Student’s adapted design brief Why use a design brief? Key terms Designers use the design brief to give them a Analysis – a method of studying clear understanding of their client’s requirements. the nature of something or of The design brief allows you to focus your determining its essential features and their research skills on particular areas within the relations. design process. Design – the process of creatively developing The value of design journals a concept or idea. (paper-based sketchbooks, Design task (brief) – a short statement explaining what is going to be designed new media – electronic and made. ebooks, e.g. Flickr, Vimeo) Research can be collected in many different ccto identify clearly all the design needs forms (digitally or from magazines, for example). required. The sketchbook is important because it Methods to use to analyse your task are: means you can have all the visual and written information you have collected at your fingertips. ccmind-mapping. It is a fantastic reference tool to bring your idea cca spider diagram to life. cca list of bullet points cca short piece of written work. Analysing a design task (brief) Make sure you have a clear understanding of the task before you go any further. The key ways to analyse a brief are: ccto highlight key words, terms and phrases and make sure you understand them 3