Studies in Rhetorics and Feminisms Series Editors, Cheryl Glenn and Shirley Wilson Logan Appropriate[ing] Dress Appropriate[ing] Dress: Women’s Rhetorical Style in Nineteenth-Century America Carol Mattingly Southern Illinois University Press Carbondale and Edwardsville Copyright © by the Board of Trustees, Southern Illinois University All rights reserved Printed in the United States of America Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Mattingly, Carol, – Appropriate[ing] dress : women’s rhetorical style in nineteenth century America / Carol Mattingly. p. cm. — (Studies in rhetorics and feminisms) Includes bibliographical references and index. . Speeches, addresses, etc., American—Women authors—History and criticism. . Rhetoric—Social aspects—United States— History—th century. . Clothing and dress—United States— History—th century. . Feminism--United States—History—th century. . Women orators—United States. I. Title: Appropriating dress. II. Title. III. Series. PS .M .''—dc ISBN --- (alk. paper) The paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements of American National Standard for Information Sciences—Permanence of Paper for Printed Library Materials, ANSI Z.-. ∞ For Amy Contents List of Figures xi Preface xiii Acknowledgments xvii Introduction: Fabricated Gender 1 . Friendly Dress: A Disciplined Use 17 .Blooming Celebrity: The Flowering of a National Ethos 37 . Restraining Women’s Rhetoric: Backlash Against the Reform Dress 62 .The Language of Passing and Desire: The Rhetoric of Cross-Dressing 85 . [Re]Fashioning a Proper Image by Dressing the Part 107 Conclusion: Dress and Body as Spectacle 135 Notes 147 Works Cited 157 Index 169