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International Series on Consumer Science Evgenia Krasteva-Blagoeva E ditor Approaching Consumer Culture Global Flows and Local Contexts International Series on Consumer Science Series Editor Jing Jian Xiao, University of Rhode Island, USA For further volumes: http://www.springer.com/series/8358 Evgenia Krasteva-Blagoeva Editor Approaching Consumer Culture Global Flows and Local Contexts Editor Evgenia Krasteva-Blagoeva New Bulgarian University Sofia, Bulgaria ISSN 2191-5660 ISSN 2191-5679 (electronic) International Series on Consumer Science ISBN 978-3-030-00225-1 ISBN 978-3-030-00226-8 (eBook) https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-00226-8 Library of Congress Control Number: 2018957319 © Springer Nature Switzerland AG 2018 This work is subject to copyright. All rights are reserved by the Publisher, whether the whole or part of the material is concerned, specifically the rights of translation, reprinting, reuse of illustrations, recitation, broadcasting, reproduction on microfilms or in any other physical way, and transmission or information storage and retrieval, electronic adaptation, computer software, or by similar or dissimilar methodology now known or hereafter developed. The use of general descriptive names, registered names, trademarks, service marks, etc. in this publication does not imply, even in the absence of a specific statement, that such names are exempt from the relevant protective laws and regulations and therefore free for general use. The publisher, the authors, and the editors are safe to assume that the advice and information in this book are believed to be true and accurate at the date of publication. Neither the publisher nor the authors or the editors give a warranty, express or implied, with respect to the material contained herein or for any errors or omissions that may have been made. The publisher remains neutral with regard to jurisdictional claims in published maps and institutional affiliations. This Springer imprint is published by the registered company Springer Nature Switzerland AG The registered company address is: Gewerbestrasse 11, 6330 Cham, Switzerland Preface This edited volume comprises a collection of papers presented at the international conference “New Consumer Practices: Anthropological Perspectives” held at New Bulgarian University, Sofia, in April 2015. The main aim of the conference was to track current cultural transformations in the context of “global” consumer culture. Globalization is perceived here not simply as a process of cultural homogenization but as a flow and exchange of goods, people, information, knowledge, and images. In fact we see it as a process of communication conducted on a global level. Following Featherstone’s ideas of studying contemporary consumer culture using framework that seriously displaces the “West” from center stage, the research interests of the contributors of this volume are focused on different ways of the production of locality through consumption. In other words, what we are concerned with are glocalization processes occurring in cultures perceived as “non-Western” or “not enough Western.” The production of local consumer cultural contexts, or cultural scapes, to follow Appadurai, is empirically recorded and analyzed in detail through the methods of fieldwork and participant observation. Most of the chapters focus on consumer transformations that arose in southeastern European countries after the fall of communism. They offer theoretical approaches and empirical data about consumer culture in the region over the last 30 years, to allow the comparison of different ways of experiencing these processes and coping strategies “from below” in different postsocialist countries. Other chapters take up the issue of consumer culture in East Asia like China and Japan in particular. Professor Featherstone was the conference’s keynote speaker. His chapter, “Consumer Culture and Its Futures: Dreams and Consequences,” brilliantly theorizes the emergence of the global cultural situation, from the rise of consumer culture in Western European courts to current global ecological changes caused by consumer culture and its 24/7 consumption patterns, so deeply transformative of human sensitivities and sociability. His chapter provides a global framework for the problems discussed in other chapters and thus may serve as a general introduction to this book. The global-local axis is present in all the chapters, yet the scope of problems addressed by the authors is quite diverse. Socialism as a context for consumption v vi Preface development is the central topic of several chapters. Some local differences in eastern bloc and in the Balkans in particular are outlined and verified empirically. Yugoslavia, for example, can be seen as an “exception” and an instance of the so-called market socialism resulting in various consumer practices that were close to Western consumption yet at the same time were anchored in the dominant paradigm of socialist values and norms (Ildiko Edrei). This sharply contrasts with the Bulgarian experience of constant deficits, which led to illegal commerce, over- valuation of Western and other hard to access goods, different customization, and even subversive customization practices, which had an impact on the construction of individual and group identities (Krasteva-Blagoeva, Kristian Bankov). Postsocialist transformations and their consequences for consumption practices and consumer culture in southeastern Europe are investigated in detail. Yuson Jung examines difficulties of establishing consumer activism in Bulgaria, due to the widespread distrust of civil society and its ability to ensure real protection of consumers against false products and deceptive practices. Studying everyday shop- ping in a Serbian town, Marina Simić concludes that buying Western goods and imitating Western consumer practices in a specific way reaffirms the non-Western status of the buyers as “cultural others.” Tsvete Lazova theorizes the commoditiza- tion of archeology as a discipline through marketing of the archeological site of Perperikon, Bulgaria, via the specific “production of antiquity” and the construction of an archeological narrative designed to territorialize national space. Two chapters are dedicated to food and food practices in postsocialism. Monica Stroe studies the revival of homemade preserves in Romania, a shortage-driven practice from socialist times that was given new meaning as a “creative domestic activity of self-provisioning.” Domestication processes of pizza (as a culturally close product) and of sushi (as utterly different as viewed from a “traditional” perspective) are interpreted by Iskra Velinova as examples of the production of local meanings of urban culinary culture in the context of globalization. The “Asian” part of the book consists of three chapters: two on Japan and one on China. Tomoko Tamari studies Mitsukoshi Department Store as an emblematic site for the formation of Japanese modernity. She sees the so-called modern girls as symbolic figures of the new Japanese consumer culture, dating from the early twentieth century. Japanese middle strata consumption patterns are analyzed by Maya Keliyan as a way of tracing the transformation of postmodern Japanese society from “middle class” to “middle mass” and finally to “divided middle mass.” Min Zhou traces the historical roots and cultural premises of conspicuous consumption in China and contrasts it with Western conspicuous consumption practices. This book combines illuminating theoretical discussions of global consumer culture “from above” with intriguing empirical analyses “from below” of the con- sumption patterns of people belonging to several different “non-Western” cultural milieus. This volume no doubt is fated to be consumed in a variety of ways as it Preface vii navigates its way through international academic circles. At its core it will remain a significant result of a collective effort to advance the horizons of our understanding of consumer culture in a globalized world. Sofia, Bulgaria Evgenia Krasteva-Blagoeva Contents Consumer Culture and Its Futures: Dreams and Consequences . . . . . . . . 1 Mike Featherstone “You Are a Socialist Child Like Me”: Goods and Identity in Bulgaria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Evgenia Krasteva-Blagoeva Consumer Culture from Socialist Yugoslavia to Post-socialist Serbia: Movements and Moments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 Ildiko Erdei Overview of Consumer Culture in Bulgaria: From Perestroika to Facebook . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 Kristian Bankov Consuming “Others”: Post-socialist Realities and Paradoxes of Appropriation in Serbia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113 Marina Simić The Meanings and Practices of “Consumer Activism” in Postsocialist Bulgaria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131 Yuson Jung Preserves Exiting Socialism: Authenticity, Anti-standardization, and Middle- Class Consumption in Postsocialist Romania . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147 Monica Stroe The Pleasures of Being Global: Cultural Consumption of Pizza and Sushi in a Bulgarian City . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 Iskra Velinova Consumption of the Past: Constructing Antiquity of an Archaeological Site in Bulgaria and Marketing the Ideological Narrative . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219 Tsvete Lazova ix x Contents Modernization and the Department Store in Early-Twentieth-Century Japan: Modern Girl and New Consumer Culture Lifestyles . . . . . . . . . . . 237 Tomoko Tamari A Cultural Reading of Conspicuous Consumption in China . . . . . . . . . . . 257 Min Zhou Middle Stratum Consumption Patterns as a “Key” for Understanding Japanese Society . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 271 Maya Keliyan Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 289 About the Authors Mike Featherstone is a professor of sociology at Goldsmiths, University of London. He is founding editor of the journal Theory, Culture & Society and the Theory, Culture & Society Book Series. He is editor-in-chief of the journal Body & Society. He is the author of Consumer Culture and Postmodernism (1991, 2nd edition 2007) and Undoing Culture: Globalization, Postmodernism and Identity (1995), and coauthor of Surviving Middle Age (1982). He is editor of over a dozen books and author of numerous journal articles and book chapters on social and cultural theory, consumer and global culture, aging and the body. His books and articles have been translated into 16 languages. He has spent time as a visiting pro- fessor in Barcelona, Geneva, Kyoto, Recife, São Paulo, Singapore, Tokyo, and Vancouver. He is founder and coordinator of the Theory, Culture & Society New Encyclopaedia Project, a research network of scholars at universities in Europe, Asia, Latin America, and Africa, which has held 20 colloquia and is producing a series of cluster volumes (the first on Problematizing Global Knowledge was published in 2006 and is currently being translated into a number of languages). Evgenia  Krasteva-Blagoeva is an associate professor in the Department of Anthropology, New Bulgarian University, Sofia. Her research interests are in con- sumer culture, ethnography of socialism and postsocialism, urban anthropology, communities and identities in the Balkans, names and name giving. She is a mem- ber of the Executive Committee of InASEA (International Association of Southeast European Anthropology) (2007–2014, 2016–2018) and elected president of InASEA (2014–2016). She was twice guest lecturer in the Institute of Ethnology, University “Ludvig Maximilian,” Munich (2006, 2008), and in Konitsa Summer School of Balkan Anthropology (2006, 2008). She is a leading scholar in several research projects such as “Fast Food and Slow Food Culture in the Beginning of 21st century” and “New Consumer Practices: Anthropological Perspectives.” She is the author of The Personal Name in Bulgarian Tradition (1999, in Bulgarian) and editor in chief of Total Sale. Consumer Culture in Bulgaria (2014, in Bulgarian). She has also authored more than 30 articles in refereed journals and edited volumes in English and German. xi

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