apparel views / september 2017 1

100 Pages·2017·8.01 MB·English

APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2017 1
2 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2017
SEPTEMBER 2017, VOL.- XVI / ISSUENO. 09
Editor & Publisher
ARVIND KUMAR
f r o m t h e e d i t o r . . .
Associate Editor
B.P. MISHRA
Asst. Editor T
he apparel export industry has asked the government to clear the confusion
SWATI SHARMA
prevailing on the issue of minimum wages under code of wages for the garment
Editorial Adviser
RAJESH CHHABARA industry. This has impacted the booking of export orders, and to restore the
Sub Editor - Creative
confidence of foreign buyers it is important that a suitable clarification is issued by
JOHN EDWARDS
the government. In the present stressful and challenging times, any additional
Art Director
SANJAY BHANDARI burden on account of doubling the minimum wages from the present about
Sr. Correspondent `9,000/- per month to `18,000/- will make garment manufacturing unviable and
ASHWANI KUMAR
unsustainable in future.
Correspondent
DEEPTI
Further, AEPC has asked the Ministry of Finance for the refund of IGST paid on
Creative - Head
import of machinery used by the apparel exporters. After the implementation of
SREEKUMAR. M
Sr. Layout Artist GST from 1st July 2017, apparel exporters are required to pay IGST up to 18 per cent
JATIN JAIN
on assessable value plus BCD while clearing shipments of capital goods under EPCG.
Sr. Designer
This incidence of a very high IGST without any corresponding relaxation for export
RAJEEV KUMAR
obligation has rendered the EPCG scheme unattractive.
Production Manager
MUKESH POKHRIYAL
The only way for apparel exporters to claim IGST refund is through input tax credit
e-Magazine
SUMER SINGH but apparel exporters who import capital goods normally export 100 per cent of
Business Promotion their products and doesn’t sell in the domestic market. Hence, issue of utilisation of
BOBBY BAKSHI (DELHI)
input tax credit doesn’t arise for these exporters. On the contrary, domestic players
MEENAKSHI SINGH (DELHI)
RAHUL SINGH YADAV (DELHI) who are importing capital goods are better placed as they have various opportunities
N. SABARI SELVAM (TIRUPUR)
PAVITHRA R. (TIRUPUR) to utilise input tax credit. Therefore, industry is demanding the Ministry to resolve the
Circulation matter by taking up the matter with GST council to allow refund of IGST to exporters.
ARCHANA (DELHI)
V. MURUGESHWARI (TIRUPUR) This will not only adversely affect the exports but will also lead to a fall in the
Accounts Head employment generation in the sector. The garment exports during the month of
ANJU CHAUHAN TONDAK
July 2017 have already registered a negative growth of 11.86 per cent in dollar terms
Head Office
138/2/9, First Floor, Kishan Garh, as against July 2016, and the growth trajectory of 31.72 per cent achieved during the
Vasant Kunj, New Delhi-110070, INDIA
month of April 2017 has now been limited to 5.94 per cent in the period April-July,
Tel.: [phone]
[email protected], [email protected] 2017, with garment exports touching only $6183.35 mn. Hence, it is very important
[email protected]
that govt. looks at this urgently.
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APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2017 3
Contents
52 66 82
Globe trotter 4
Domestic update 16
With textile facing saturation
Option is diversification into MMFs 30
SGS holistic solution for managing
Zero discharge for textile and footwear industry 38
5 factors that affect fabric consumption 40
Junior’s Fashion Week Autumn Winter 2017 42
Jack organises Gratitude Ceremony 2017 44
Sustainable fashion from fabric scraps in garment industries 48
Studio Next unveils
It’s Indigenous Manual Spreader Prototype 50
Silicone inks for superior performance printing 52
Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2017 54
54
Zoje Sewing Machine
Having aggressive plans for increasing its share in India 66
Solunaris GmbH - Innovative leader
with vast experience in digital printing inks 70
Speciality Weavecoats LLP
Plans to double their weaving capacity 74
Intertextile Shanghai 76
Maya Embroidery Machinery
Targets to double its turnover by 2018 78
GTE Ahmedabad 2017
Biggest ever garment technology show in region 82
Forthcoming trade events 94
4 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2017
APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2017 5
Ethiopian industrial parks attract
foreign textile firms
T
hree industrial parks built by
China in Ethiopia’s Hawassa,
Mekelle and Kombolcha have
started drawing foreign export
firms to the east African nation’s
textile and apparel sector. The
country plans to generate one-
fourth of $400-mn foreign exchange
earnings target for the current fiscal
from its flagship industrial park in Hawassa alone. The parks are part of Ethiopia’s
efforts to become Africa’s manufacturing powerhouse. The country plans to
raise its current $150 mn revenue from textile and apparel exports to more than
$1 bn, according to a report.
The Hawassa park has started bringing in revenues and Hong Kong-based TAL
Apparel is among the foreign companies that have started production in its
premises. About $1.5 mn is being earned every month at the Hawassa park,
according to a recent report by the Ethiopian Textile Industry Development
Iran's garment industry worth $15 bn Institute. Seven foreign companies, including some from Bangladesh, have
secured space to commence operations at the Mekelle industrial park.
I
ran’s fashion and garment
US textile and apparel firm Trybus has signed an agreement with the Ethiopian
industry is worth 500 trrials (over
Investment Commission to start a factory inside the Kombolcha Industrial
$15 bn) though data from the
Park built by the China Civil Engineering Corporation. Ethiopia, with nearly 175
government’s statistics centre
textile units, aims to generate $30 bn in foreign exchange earnings from the
shows that to be 350 trrials, the
textiles and clothing sector by 2030 and has allotted more than $1 bn for the
Country’s Secretary of fashion and
construction of industrial parks in the second five-year growth and
clothing regulation workgroup
transformation plan (GTP-II) period, effective from 2015 to 2020. It plans to
Hamid Qobadi Dana recently told the
have 150 companies in the sector by 2020
fashion-focused second edition of the
Startup Weekend conference in Tehran. Dana also highlighted the need to have a
national standard system of garment sizes. The conference, held in mid-August Clothes out of beer raising $5 mn
on the development of new talent in the fashion and retail industry, centredaround
‘Entrepreneurship in Fashion and Technology,’ according to a report. A
Perth-based textiles company has
A new apparel industrial town may be set-up in Fashafouyeh in Tehran Province’s announced plans to list on the
Rey County to limit imports, boost domestic production and to make the price of Australian stock market, which is not
Iranian garments more competitive. AT present, 9,818 industrial units are active in necessarily newsworthy in itself, except for
Iran’s textile and apparel sector, comprising 11 per cent of all industrial entities the fact that it makes clothes derived from
beer. According to a report, Nanollose is
planning to raise $5 mn from a public listing
Armenia keen to cooperate with to assist in commercial development.
Vietnamese textile firms Data released by the ABS earlier this year
shows Aussies still enjoy beer for its more
A common usage as a refreshing beverage,
rmenia has expressed its desire to cooperate with
but advances in technology mean it can
major Vietnamese textile firms to revive the local
now be used for clothes as well. Nanollose
garment industry and boost exports. This was
uses its technology to extract cellulose,
conveyed to a delegation from the Vietnam National
which is one of the main ingredients in
Textile and Garment Group (Vinatex) that visited
textile production.
Armenia in August to seek partners and explore
avenues to develop production projects in Vietnam. While cellulose is usually derived from cotton and linen, Nanollose instead
converts biomass from the waste generated by the production of beer, wine and
Armenia also promised to create favourable
liquid foods. The company emerged two years ago when it debuted a dress made
conditions for foreign investors and provide special
of material leftover from beer fermentation at a fashion expo in Milan.
mechanisms for Vietnamese investors through cooperation policies,
cooperation agreements, and granting of work visas, quoting Vinatex General That followed an experiment with a dress made from fermented wine extract,
Director Le Tien Truong. which may have raised concerns about the drinking habits of the wearer — it
still smelt like wine. Nanollose lodged its prospectus with ASIC on August 21,
Truong said Vinatex will consider production and business cooperation with big
and is inviting investors to subscribe for 25,000,000 shares at 20 cents. The
Armenian companies that already have distribution networks in Russia and the
company is aiming to raise $5 mn from a fully-subscribed float, managed by
European Union. Vietnam is the first country to sign a free trade agreement with
Mac Equity.
the Eurasian Economic Union (EAEU), which includes Armenia.
The prospectus states that the offer will run until 11 October, with the issue of
Vinatex representatives met Armenian Deputy Foreign Minister, the Minister
shares scheduled for 18 October. No shares will be issued unless a minimum
of economic development and investment, and some major businesses in the
rising of $5 mn has been achieved. As part of the share issue, investors will be
country’s capital Yerevan. Armenia has 94 businesses in the textile and
required to make a minimum investment of $2,000 (10,000 shares), with additional
garments sector and some of its companies have experience working with big
investments to be made in $200 increments
fashion brands of Italy and Germany
6 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2017
Indonesian upstream textile industry US want UN sanctions on North
urge for tax exemption Korean oil, textile exports
T U
he Indonesian upstream textile industry has urged the Fiscal Policy Office in Indonesia, S ambassador to the
Badan Kebijakan Fiskal, or BKF to exempt local raw materials supplied by local United Nations Nikki
manufacturers from VAT. Currently the Indonesian Government only provides tax exemption Haley has said she wants
for imported raw materials to those companies that obtained the so-called "Ease of the 15-member UN
Import Facility for Export Purposes" (in Indonesian: Fasilitas KemudahanImpor Tujuan Security Council (UNSC)
Ekspor, or KITE) on the strict condition that these companies only use these relatively to vote on September 11
cheap imported raw materials for output that is shipped abroad. on a draft resolution to
impose new sanctions on
However, domestic textile
North Korea that includes an oil embargo and a ban on the country’s
manufacturers supplying raw
textile exports and the hiring of North Korean labourers abroad. The
materials to KITE facility owners
country recently tested a nuclear bomb.
are subject to a 10 per cent value
added tax (VAT), hence seeing The United States wants the UNSC to impose the embargo and subject
weaker competitiveness. For North Korean President Kim Jong Un to an asset freeze and travel ban,
KITE facility owners this situation according to a report. However, Russia insists the North Korean nuclear
makes it attractive to opt for crisis is impossible to solve with sanctions and pressure alone.
imported raw materials instead
Meanwhile, US Treasury Secretary Steven Mnuchin has said that if
of buying from localq suppliers.
the UNSC did not act, he has an executive order prepared to send to
Scrapping the 10 per cent VAT is expected to boost demand for local raw materials.
President Donald Trump that would ‘authorize’ him to stop conducting
According to the Indonesian Synthetic Fibre Producers Association (APSyFI) data show trade and put sanctions on any entity that maintains trade ties with
that the volume of garment exports in 2016 reached 550,000 tonnes, while imports of North Korea.
cloth stood at 724,000 tonne in the same year. Meanwhile, it is estimated that domestic
It is estimated that between 60,000 and 100,000 North Koreans
consumption of local raw materials in the textile industry could replace 100,000 tonne of
works abroad. Textiles were North Korea’s second-biggest export
imports, hence saving up to $500 mn in foreign exchange, boost activity at local factories
after coal and other minerals in 2016, worth around $752 mn,
and generate more employment.
according to the Korea Trade-Investment Promotion Agency
Redma Gita Wirawasta, Secretary General of the Indonesian Synthetic Fibre Producers (KOTRA). Nearly 80 per cent of the textile exports went to China.
Association (APSyFI), said that the proposal has been discussed during several recent The draft resolution reportedly will allow states to intercept and
meetings with the BKF. The APSyFI would be highly supportive of this move and it would in inspect on the high seas vessels blacklisted by the UNSC. Around
fact encourage the development of an import-substitution industry two dozen vessels are listed at present
APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2017 7
Honduras textiles and Pakistan textile industries need to focus
apparel seeks investment on value addition
P
akistan textile industry has been advised to focus on value addition to compete in the
international market as lack of value addition is one of the major reasons behind the decline
in exports, said Commerce Secretary Younis Dagha recently while addressing an event hosted
by Pakistan Hosiery Manufacturers and Exporters Association.
According to Dagha, cost of doing business
is higher in Pakistan compared to
neighbouring countries, but it is not the only
hurdle in exports as they have not played
their role in value addition… industrial
H production remains lower. Commerce
onduras has launched an economic transformation unit
Secretary said that Indian and Bangladeshi
called Honduras 2020 to help attract and facilitate
exporters invest in their industries, while in
investment in the textiles and apparel sector in the country.
Pakistan foreign revenue earned from textile
Honduras 2020, which is jointly funded and directed by the public
exports went back to stocks and real estate
and private sector, extends an invitation to potential investors
sector. Investors should not divert textile
to explore the textiles and apparel industry within a pro-business
money to real estate and other sectors.
environment to drive strategic long-term growth. Honduras 2020
offers fiscal incentives to investors, such as no federal or Dagha further added that work on combined effluent treatment plant will soon start with the
municipal taxes, government subsidies for salaries for new project cost to be borne half each by provincial and federal governments. Provincial government
employee training and access to capital with financial institutions has already sanctioned the budget, while the issue is pending with the planning commission at
active in the sector. the federal level, which will soon be resolved.
Honduras offers important competitive advantages for Zubair Motiwala, Ex-President of Karachi Chamber of Commerce and Industry said yarn exports
investment in the textiles and apparel sector. Honduras is the fetch $1.26 bn, but after value-addition this amount can go up to $7.5 bn a year. Pakistan Central
number one worldwide cotton shirt and number two sweater Cotton Committee has been handed over to private sector, but there has been no improvement
volume exporter to USA market. According to the Honduran in cotton production since then.
Manufacturers Association, the industry has an estimated
Jawed Bilwani, Chairman of Pakistan Apparel Forum said that Pakistan’s textile exports are
investment value of $7.8 bn designated to clothing and
lower than India, Bangladesh and Vietnam, while costs of production as well as minimum
manufacturing fabric.
wages are comparatively higher in the country. They receive export orders when other suppliers
Its strategic geographical location represents a great are not available in the international market. They get only spillover orders. Exports would
competitive advantage, as it offers the largest and safest port increase when a level-playing field is provided to the industries. The country is facing a widening
in Central America, certified under the Safe Container Initiative. trade deficit of more than $32 bn and it would not prosper if exports are not increased
WRAP, Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production, which
is an independent, non-profit organisation dedicated to promoting
PRGMEA urges revision of textile policy
labour, health, safety, environment and customs law
compliances, ranks Honduras in second place for social
P
akistan Readymade Garments Manufacturers and Exporters Association (PRGMEA) Central
compliance in Latin America and first place in Central America.
Chairman Ijaz Khokhar said the formulation of sector wise policies is the only remedial
Honduras benefits from a stable legal framework, which is based solution to avoid decline and stabilise textile exports.
on the Free Zone Law, and which guarantees the principle of free
Talking to APP recently, PRGMEA Chairman said, “We are pressing the government to review
enterprise and production incentives. “Textiles and apparel
its textile policy to enable the textile sector to attain the targets,” adding that government
industry investment represents a great socioeconomic impact
should take steps for the removal of hurdles hindering exports of textile sector. “We understand
for both parties,” authors of the initiative explain. “The country
that formulation of sector wise policies is the only remedial solution to avoid decline and to
where the investment takes place is provided with employment
stabilise the exports,” he reiterated.
opportunities that reduce unemployment percentages and, on
the other hand, investors are granted the benefit of improving Ijaz said that due to non-availability of
their performance margins since their costs diminish due to latest fabric, locally the garment sector
highly productive labour force.” currently has a limited product line for
the export market, adding that foreign
Through the Tripartite Comission (Government – Workers –
buyers were demanding new garments
AHM) and Bipartite Comission (AHM – Textile Labor Unions),
on G3, G4 and technical fabric raw
permanent dialogue mechanisms have been created with
material which is not available nor
textiles sector workers. PROCINCO, the Integral Competitiveness
produced by Pakistani weavers.
Training Program, offered by the AHM in alliance with INFOP, the
Honduran Vocational Training Institute, offers a series of training He said more than 30 per cent cash
courses for operators, technicians, managers and executives. flow was blocked since long in the
More than 562,000 employees have been trained since 2001. shape of sales tax refund and custom
rebates which was adversely damaging cash liquidity. “Our value added products are unable to
The vision for the textiles and apparel sector established by
fetch high value due to poor packaging and under the circumstances, there is need of setting up
Honduras 2020 is to position the country as the textiles export
a product and packaging centre for ensuring better packaging,” he added.
leader in the Americas to USA and Europe reaching a total of
$7.4 bn and creating an important number of new jobs. Focused He said that at present there are 125 exporters of martial art apparel in Sialkot and the city was
on corporate social responsibility, AHM also promotes training earning up to $400 mn. He added that efforts were underway for bringing a big boost in the
initiatives, housing access opportunities, safety and exports up to $1 bnby 2020.However, the PRGMEA Chairman said that Research and Development
occupational health standards, and also a new pilot project of (R&D) was weak due to the high cost of utility and allied factors and under the circumstances,
child care centres. This provides residential areas with security, the government should announce special R&D support fund for innovation of new product and up
stability and comfort for the families of textiles workers gradation of workplaces
8 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2017
APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2017 9
Former Gap boss developing sustainable plant-free fibre
in 2014 by scientist Gary Cass. "Today, we use Germano says the company will first target the $500bn
plants and trees for fibres to make clothes and global textile industry, given the increasing urgency
textiles, with manufacturers having limited from brands, retailers and manufacturers to seek and
alternative eco-friendly options available to them. cultivate alternative sustainable fibre resources.
We don't have to cut down trees and plants to "Progressive brands and companies are starting to
create our plant-free cellulose fibre, and it can be facilitate this new shift by involving themselves
used in the same way as other fibres to make deeper in the supply chain and searching for feasible,
clothing and textiles but with a dramatically sustainable long-term alternatives."
reduced environmental footprint.”
This urgency for cleaner alternatives recently saw
A As the building block raw material for items such as Swedish retailer Hennes&Mauritz (H&M) release a
ustralian technology company Nanollose, headed
paper, clothing and hygiene products, cellulose is sustainability report in April, highlighting its
up by former Gap Inc clothing boss Alfie Germano,
obtained from plant sources like cotton, wood and commitment to use 100 per cent sustainably sourced
is producing what it claims is the world's first plant-
bamboo, with the supply chains and procurement materials by 2030. As part of that plan, the retailer's
free fibre, offering a sustainable alternative to
ecosystems of these industries raising ever-growing Indonesian arm has partnered with Danone, bottled
commonly used fibres such as cotton for the textile
environmental concerns."The current procurement water brand Aqua, and one of its most sustainable
industry. The company is developing a technology that
of fibres to make textiles and clothing is highly suppliers, to turn plastic waste into clothes.
uses biomass from waste products such as beer,
resource intensive," say Germano said. "I applaud
wine and liquid food, to extract cellulose fibres – one Zara has also joined the movement with the launch of
the cotton industry's efforts and improvements,
of the main ingredients in fashion and textile its sustainable line 'Join Life' last year. "We want to
however the challenges around cotton still remain
production. The process, Nanollose says, requires very be part of this solution, and our vision is to create an
as it requires large amounts of water, vast acres of
little land, water or energy. A production cycle is just end-to-end supply chain with key partners who will
land and uses a significant amount of insecticide."We
18 days, compared to the eight months seen in the grow our fibres," says Germano. "The goal is to then
are the only company we know of looking to produce
cotton industry. feed our sustainable alternative into the global
plant-free cellulose fibres, and I truly believe that
industries with little to no retrofitting to existing
CEO Germano says the development marks an Nanollose success will be a success for the global
machinery or processes"
exciting time for the company, which was founded textile industry."
Myanmar textile industry training in chemical management
T
he European Union-funded SMART Myanmar “They have provided us with expertise and knowledge
project has launched a six-month advanced resources which PSES developed over more than 10
chemical-management training programme for years. With this programme, we aim to help Myanmar
garment and textile factories. The training follows a dodge the environmental destruction which so many
curriculum developed by the Promotion of Social and of the world’s other garment and textile industries
Environmental Standards in the Industry (PSES) have faced.” SMART Myanmar is the largest not-for-
project. PSES is a joint project of the Governments of profit technical-training initiative in Myanmar’s
Bangladesh and Germany, implemented by Deutsche industrial sector. It has trained hundreds of managers
Gesellschaftfür Internationale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) and dozens of garment factories on various social
GmbH, which works on behalf of the German Federal and environmental topics. The Chemical
Ministry for Economic Co-operation and Development. Management and Detox programme is the newest
addition to the project’s several on-site consultancy
“GIZ has been immensely cooperative and practical,”
and training modules
said Jacob Clere, SMART Myanmar Team Leader.
New African nations get AGOA trade benefits, others at risk
A
s the U.S. continues its wholesale review of all from the United States. Since AGOA came into effect,
trade agreements and preference programmes- regional real GDP has more than doubled and robust
including the African Growth and Opportunity Act-it economic growth has helped reduce poverty and raise
seems to still be building up on the AGOA programme living standards across the continent.”
that’s so far still set to run through 2025. Last month,
The US took in a total of $1.04 bn worth of textiles and
the United States Trade Representative said Togo is
apparel from AGOA nations last year, just a 1.25 per
now eligible to enjoy trade benefits under AGOA for
cent increase over 2015, according to OTEXA. Nearly
textile and apparel products. A statement in the According to a report in Rwanda, talks with the US
33 per cent of that came from Kenya, followed by Lesotho
Federal Register said, “…Togo has adopted an have begun. “We are talking to our partners in the
with 28 per cent and Mauritius accounting for 19 per
effective visa system and related procedures to US. We value our trade and relations with the US and
cent of US. AGOA imports. AGOA still remains largely
prevent the unlawful transshipment of textile and we are doing all that is possible not to be out of cycle
under-utilised, with just 16 countries importing textiles
apparel articles and the use of counterfeit documents and of course we have been engaging on the issue,”
and apparel to the US of the 26 that are eligible.
in connection with the shipment of such articles…” Rwanda Development Board Chief Operating Officer,
Emmanuel Hategeka, told. “We think there is a lot to Reiterating the previous sentiment that the US needs
Separately, the US initiated a review in June of AGOA
gain if we keep AGOA, not just in volume terms. to move from an aid-based relationship with Africa to
eligibility for Tanzania, Uganda and Rwanda, which came
Probably the volume of exports has not been a lot but one that’s trade based, Lighthizer said, “Bilateral trade
about when the East African Community (EAC) decided
the idea is to have an open market.” that benefit both US and Africa exporters and service
to ban imports of secondhand clothing to improve its
providers lies at the core of our Africa trade policy. I
own industry. The US Secondary Materials and Recycled Trade leaders from the US and nations in Africa met
encourage our AGOA partners to promote fair trade,
Textiles Association (SMART)—which initiated the last month at the 16th Annual AGOA Forum to discuss
foster an improved business environment, and create
petition for review with the USTR—said the move to moves forward for trade. In a statement following the
economic opportunity that lays the groundwork for
curb incoming used clothing is a barrier to US trade, forum, US Trade Rep Robert Lighthizer said, “Africa is
the next state in the US-Africa trade relationship”
which goes against certain requirements under AGOA. better positioned than ever before to sell to and buy
10 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2017