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1 APPAREL VIEWS BANGLADESH/NOVEMBER - DECEMBER 2017/ 2 /APPAREL VIEWS BANGLADESH/NOVEMBER - DECEMBER 2017 B angladesh plans to double its apparel export to reach a high ambition mark of $50-bn by 2021, which currently stands at $28 bn by expanding its global markets. In the first 11 months of the year 2017, Bangladesh exported garment worth $26.40 bn, up 1.38 per FFrroomm cent year-on-year. The favourable US dollar-taka exchange rate has lent a helping hand to apparel exporters. At the start of the year, the greenback traded between Tk 78 and Tk 79 and after first half of TThhee EEddiittoorr’’ss December, it traded at Tk 83.20. The dollar can be allowed to appreciate to up to Tk 85. If it goes past the Tk 85-mark, it will be bad for the balance of payment and DDeesskk...... macroeconomic stability, as imports would become costlier. However, exporters want further devaluation of the local currency against the dollar to compensate for the rising cost of production. Apart from the favourable exchange rate, the rising shipment of value-added items, brighter image of Bangladesh's garment sector after remediation works, relative political calm and automation of production also helped prop up garment exports in 2017. The industry is optimistic about the New Year as the country's apparel sector is on a strong footing following the thumbs-up from the Accord and Alliance, the two foreign factory inspection agencies. Nearly 80 per cent of the remediation works to fix electrical, fire and structural flaws have been completed. Exporters are hoping for better business opportunities after this. Besides, the economies of major export destinations are rebounding gradually from the shocks of BREXIT and general elections in many EU countries. It is expected that export receipts will be about 10 per cent higher next year. However, for achieving higher export growth the government should give the highest priority to addressing issues like congestions in the premier ports to shorten the lead-time. Adequate power and energy should be ensured and the infrastructures must be enhanced. The exporters also see the political instability as a major challenge in the New Year as the general election is due to be held at the end of next year or in early 2019. SHEIKH REZAUR RAHMAN Editor & Publisher 3 APPAREL VIEWS BANGLADESH/NOVEMBER - DECEMBER 2017/ NOV - DEC 2017 / VOL.-V / ISSUE NO. 03 Editor & Publisher Sheikh Rezaur Rahman Correspondent 28 Tanmoy Mitra Swati Sharma (India) Business Promotion Tapan Kumar Jana Md. Riaz Uddin Circulation Archana (India) Operations Md. Mehdi Hassan Editorial Technical Experts - Overseas 24 32 Arvind Kumar (India) Rajesh Chhabara (Singapore) Creative Head Sreekumar. M Sr. Designer S 04 Jatin Jain Globe Trotter e-Magazine 10 Domestic Update Sumer Singh T 22 For Subscription Bangladesh again denied Generalised System of Mobile: 01775.091.151 Preferences (GSP) facility Email: [email protected] 24 Apparel industry set For Advertisement N Mobile: 01799.751.096 / 01790.600.088 to increase exports mark to $50 bn Email: [email protected] 28 AMICOR FIBRE Application of contemporary fibres in apparels Head Office E 32 Apparel Views Bangladesh Limited Eight hidden elements to revamp your cutting room Section-1, Road-1, House-21, Priyanka Housing, 34 Mirpur-1, Dhaka 1216, Bangladesh ETON & Gerber to capture growing potential of Tel.: +88.02.900.9419, +88 017 7559 1327 T Bangladesh market together E-mail: [email protected] 36 The dart–An important tool of the Regd. Office pattern maker in garment construction! Apparel Views Bangladesh Limited House No. 33, Road 2/E, Priyanka Housing, N 38 US denim imports down more than one per cent in 2017 Turag City, Mirpur 1 Dhaka 1216, Bangladesh 40 Overseas Office Denim Première Vision – Spring / Summer ‘19 138/2/9, First Floor, Kishan Garh, 50 Vasant Kunj, New Delhi - 110 070, INDIA Huntsman introduces O Mob.: +91.98100.93872 HIGH IQ® Lasting Colour and HIGH IQ® Lasting White E-mail: [email protected] [email protected] 54 BIGTEX–Bangladesh Editor & Publisher, Sheikh Rezaur Rahman, Printed 60 C Maiden Screen Print Bangladesh marks its presence and Processed by him at Sakura Printers, Hasan Tower, 180 Fakirapool, Motijheel, Dhaka 1000. Reproduction 64 of any of the content from this issue is prohibited Forthcoming trade events without explicit written permission of the publisher. 44 //AAPPPPAARREELL VVIIEEWWSS BBAANNGGLLAADDEESSHH//NNOOVVEEMMBBEERR -- DDEECCEEMMBBEERR 22001177 5 APPAREL VIEWS BANGLADESH/NOVEMBER - DECEMBER 2017/ Vietnam likely to achieve its export target Vietnamese on its way to achieve the slower growth, between 4 and 4.5 per cent. textile and garment export target of $31 Exports to the South Korean market are bn for 2017, according to Le Tien Truong, expected to hit nearly $2 bn this year. General Director of Vietnam National Textile In the first eight months of this year, and Garment Group (Vinatex). As the apparel and textile exports to China rose average export growth rate in August and by 30 per cent to $670 mn. Export September indicates the target is achievable, turnover to the Russian market will likely another $8 bn worth of exports is needed exceed $200 mn this year making it among before the year end. the top 10 apparel export markets. Russia Of the five major destination markets for is considered a potential market for Vietnam Vietnamese clothing goods, the United over the next five years. In 2016, Vietnam’s States, Japan, South Korea and China are From January to September this year, the textile and apparel exports were worth $28 members of the Asia-Pacific Economic clothing industry grossed $23 bn in export bn and exports growth is projected to reach Cooperation (APEC) and jointly constitute turnover, including yarn exports at $2.6 bn, 10 per cent this year. According to Le Tien 70 per cent of export turnover, contributing materials and non-woven fabrics at $1.1 bn Truong, the US’ withdrawal from the Trans- remarkably to the country’s export growth and clothes at $19.6 bn. Exports to the US Pacific Partnership Agreement (TPP) has in 2017. The fifth is the European Union market have grown by 6.5 per cent and are not affected Vietnam's apparel exports to (EU). Exports to these five markets have expected to reach about $13 bn this year. the US. witnessed exponential growth, said Truong. Exports to Europe and Japan have posted Polyester fibre market to reach Oeko-Tex® commissions consumer $39.3 bn by 2025 sustainability research study The global polyester staple fibre (PSF) market is expected to reach In conjunction with its $39.3 bn by 2025, growing at a CAGR of 6.3 per cent, says a recent 25th anniversary, the report. Rise in the global consumption of sustainable textiles has been a Switzerland-based major factor driving market growth. Growing environment consciousness Oeko-Tex® Association and cheaper price of PSF has increased utilisation of PSF in the market. recently commissioned Solid PSF was the largest product segment in 2016 and is expected to a research study of more than 11,000 global clothing and witness a promising growth rate over the forecast period, according to home textile consumers to look at attitudes towards textile the "Polyester Staple Fibre (PSF) Market Analysis 2014 – 2025" report by sustainability including harmful substances in textiles, Research and Markets. Hollow product segment is anticipated to observe environmental responsibility, climate change and the social a low growth rate by 2025. In terms of revenue, apparel application welfare of textile workers. The study, “The Key to segment is anticipated to observe the fastest growth over the next eight Confidence: Consumers and Textile Sustainability — years at a CAGR of 6.7 per cent from 2017 to 2025, the report said. Attitudes, Changing Behaviours, and Outlooks,” was conducted by Ellen Karp and her company Anerca Polyester staple fibre is li- International. Oeko-Tex Institute clients were able to ghtweight, wrinkle-free, and participate in a series of webinars to learn about the study’s resistant to light and wea- findings, and Oeko-Tex plans to participate in upcoming ther. It also has an ability to industry events and webinars to share the data with the withstand extreme climatic larger textile community. conditions. It is used as a key element in various end-use “As long-time leaders in textile sustainability, we felt that sectors, including apparel, this unique global study to quantify consumer attitudes home furnishing, construc- about textile sustainability was a fitting tribute to our tion, and automotive, whi- past 25 years as well as a worthy undertaking to prepare ch is expected to drive us to succeed in the next,” said Anna Czerwinska, Head market growth over the fo- of Marketing and Communication, Oeko-Tex. “The recast period. Rising product demand, owing to its long-term effective- quantitative findings derived through ‘The Key to ness, high elastic resilience, tenacity, and eco-friendly nature of PSF, is Confidence’ study should serve as a call to action for the also expected to boost market growth over the next eight years. PSF is textile industry,” Karp said. “Consumers are fast learning instrumental in improving the overall quality at a lower price than its that their textile buying decisions impact not only their alternatives, which is expected to drive its demand. Increasing product families, but also their communities and beyond. Brands, usage in Asia Pacific owing to its rising utilisationin textile manufacturing retailers, and manufacturers need to be ready for this industry is also expected to boost demand over the forecast period. awakening. It is definitely coming.” 6 /APPAREL VIEWS BANGLADESH/NOVEMBER - DECEMBER 2017 Nanollose develops sustainable fibre for apparel industry With increasing environmental concerns As brands, retailers and manufacturers associated with the production of increasingly seek environmentally sustainable fibres from cotton and other plant based fibre resources, Germano says that interest sources, Nanollose, an innovative Australian in the company’s technology has been company, has developed what it believes is significant. “Over the past three months a revolutionary plant-free viscose-rayon interest in our fibre technology from multiple fibre product. With its new development, textile, apparel and fibre manufactures has the company aims to offer sustainable been significant, and the next step will be alternative to plant-based fibres such as around accelerating towards producing viscose-rayon, which are commonly used sufficient quantities of rayon fibre samples but which the company says have to commercialising our sustainable fibres for these groups,” he explained. “We then significant environmental impacts. aim to collaborate with these global partners as a very real alternative, so we positively who can expedite our development Viscose-rayon is a well-established fibre made impact and reduce the cutting down of programme, and provide technical support from cellulose predominantly derived from trees and use of toxic processes to create and scale for turning fibre into fabrics, which wood-pulp, and used to make everything from clothing,” commented Alfie Germano, will then go into making clothing.” home furnishings to clothing. However, there Nanollose’s Managing Director. might be significant environmental concerns Unlike conventional rayon, Nanollose’s Nanollose Ltd. is an Australian based surrounding its production, as a considerable sustainable alternative is derived using biotechnology company which has, aims number of trees are cut down, chipped and microbes that convert biomass waste to continue to develop, innovative then treated with chemicals, followed by energy products from the beer, wine and liquid proprietary technologies relating to the intensive purification process to source the production, processing and applications of food industries into microbial cellulose, cellulose required for rayon production, in a process that is said to take less than microbial nanocellulose, which have the Nanollose says. one month and require very little land, potential to effect change in the global cellulose industry and to offer an “Each year a huge amount of trees are cut down water or energy. The microbial cellulose environmentally sustainable alternative to to produce wood-based fibres like rayon. Today’s is then converted into rayon fibres using plant-based cellulose materials. breakthrough takes Nanollose one step closer the Nanollose technology. Xaar celebrates winning Manufacturing Site Jordan PM lays foundation Award for third time stone of two garment factories Xaar plc, the world leader in industrial inkjet technology, has been awarded “Manufacturing Site of the Year” for a third time by TechWorks (formerly the National Microelectronics Institute), a national industry organisation aiming to strengthen the UK’s position as a global leader in future technologies. The TechWorks Awards ceremony, held recently at the Greenwich Peninsula in London, celebrated this year’s key electronics innovations, people and companies from across the UK and Ireland. It has been running as an annual event since 2001. Xaar picked up its “Manu- facturing Site of the Year” Prime Minister of Jordan Hani Mulki as part of the award from BBC techno- government's development and job-creation logy correspondent Rory strategy in the Kingdom's various regions, recently Cellan-Jones, who com- laid the foundation stone of two garment factories in mended the company’s Arjan in the Ajloun Governorate and Souf in the Jerash great performance in 2017, Governorate. The apparel factory in Ajloun, which is and also reserved special being launched by a local manufacturing company, praise for its outstanding will provide 250 jobs, mostly for women, in the area, example of collaboration one of the poorest in the Kingdom. The clothing with other member sites. The award was decided by an independent panel of factory in Souf, an Indian investment in cooperation expert judges, who were particularly impressed with Xaar’s systematic approa- with the Ministry of Labour and the Development ch and drive to improve performance through Continuous Improvement, new and Employment Fund, will create about 500 jobs for product development and product cost reduction activities. young men and women in the area. “We are delighted once again to receive this prestigious award from TechWorks,” The Prime Minister said that the government is comments Doug Edwards, CEO of Xaar. “It is recognition for the hard work of seeking to find jobs for Jordanians in various many individuals and teams throughout Xaar to increase our agility and flexibility vocations, adding that the government had worked for meeting the changing needs of our customers and their businesses, in in a partnership with the private sector to uplift order to achieve our 2020 goal. TechWorks is the UK Industry association for industrial and economic sectors and launch projects ‘Deep Tech’, or the underpinning technologies – such as AI, robotics, 5G, machine to provide income for job seekers, as well as support vision, IoT, analytics and automation – that drive the new economy. small enterprises and attract investment. 7 APPAREL VIEWS BANGLADESH/NOVEMBER - DECEMBER 2017/ Ethiopian textile, garment H&M Foundation shows new recycling system exports earns $31.2 mn at DesignInspire H&M Foundation with the Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel (HKRITA) has demonstrated the new concept of innovative Closed-Loop Apparel Recycling Eco-System in the Swedish Pavilion of DesignInspire 2017. The international exhibition is an inspiring platform for design brands, design associations and institutes to showcase their creativity. From global garment collecting initiative to new ways of textile recycling, H&M Foundation aims to drive long lasting positive change and improve living conditions by investing in people, communities and innovative ideas. "The new eco-system aims to in- vestigate at least one ready tech- nology to recycle clothes made from blend textiles into new fi- bres and yarns. The project has successfully developed a The Ethiopian Textile Industry Development hydrothermal (chemical) process Institute disclosed that the foreign and a biological process to fully currency generated from the textile sector has separate and recycle cotton and been steadily growing. Over the last three polyester blends. The recovered months Ethiopia has earned $31.2 mn from polyester material can be reused textile and garment export. The Ethiopian directly, without any quality loss. textile products have entered into Germany, This is a major breakthrough in Italy, China and United States through AGOA the journey towards a closed stated Institute Communication Directorate loop for textiles. The technology will be scaled up and tested further to prove Director Bantihun Gessesse. commercial viability. When finalised, the technology will be licensed widely through The burgeoning of the textile industries triggers HKRITA to ensure broad market access and maximum impact. It will benefit the environment as well as people and communities," H&M Foundation said in a report. the expansion of cotton farming by public, private sector and small scale farmers. Currently, H&M Foundation supported by the Global Garment Collecting Program, initiated the total cotton farm being cultivated has the four-year partnership project with HKRITA in September 2016. The contribution reached 42,000 hectares of land. The domestic of 5.8 mn euro by H&M Foundation and additional funding from the Innovative cotton production could satisfy the local and Technology Fund of Hong Kong SAR Government will help to spearhead a demand, he added. The institute is providing series of research. training cotton growers to maintain the quality of the cotton. Regarding foreign investors flow, Bantihun said Indian apparel industry performing competitively that the prevalent of peace and stability, availability of abundant cheap labour, plenty of Textile Minister Smriti Irani at the 22nd Apparel Export Promotion Council Export cheap energy from hydro power and flourishing Awards in the national capital said that the textile sector in the country comprising industrial parks all over the country are the pulling of a fair share of Micro, Small and Medium Enterprises (MSMEs) despite the change factor. He said thanks to the enabling investment in global markets and challenges, the sector is performing at par with other countries environment currently foreign companies are competitively. Also the country is finding its place as an emerging Fashion centre injecting their money, technology, experience as with an enormous raw material and manufacturing base on the country along with well as skills on the sector. the talent in terms of designing. In addition, the government is encouraging With regard to the gover- foreign investors through the provision of nment's commitment to various incentives including tax holidays, tax ensuring a dialogue, Irani free capital goods importation, custom services said that her office along provision on the spot, and easily access to with the Commerce and financial credit. The Director said that university- Industry Ministry is dedi- textile industry linkage is getting strengthened. cated to address the dif- Formerly, the only institution integrated with ferent concerns put up by the industry was Bahir Dar University but industry from time to time. currently more than six universities is enrolling Suresh Prabhu, Commer- students in textile and garment technology ce and Industry Minister, who was also present during the ceremony, said that the with first and second degrees. The world sector can see itself in full support from the government, be it the push for growth, number one US textile industry known as HDM MEIS or trade agreements. has installed its factory in Hawassa Industrial Also NITI Aayog CEO Amitabh Kant highlighted the importance of handholding the Park creating 10,000 jobs and expected to textile sector considering the fact that it involves a huge chunk of labour and contributes create many more jobs in the coming years. to employment generation in the country. It is to align further closely with AEPC to Most graduates from technical colleges would explore newer policies and framework whenever required for the sector. benefit from these job opportunities. 8 /APPAREL VIEWS BANGLADESH/NOVEMBER - DECEMBER 2017 9 APPAREL VIEWS BANGLADESH/NOVEMBER - DECEMBER 2017/ G-Star RAW develops first ever C2C Gold level certified denim G-Star Raw, denim brand continuing its Their new denim fabric and its revolutionary efforts to shape a new future for the indigo process will become an open source fabric with the development of the first-ever for the rest of the industry to use. They pair of Cradle to Cradle (C2C) Gold level would like to invite others to join them certified pair of jeans. The collection is towards cleaner and more ethical denim collaboration with Archroma, a global textile production globally. The RFTPi collection is industry leader specialising in earth-friendly just the latest denim innovation from G-Star, colour and dyeing processes, which also which in 2014 partnered with Pharrell helped Patagonia develop its sustainable Williams' Bionic Yarn on its RAW for the denim collection. To develop the sustainable Oceans collection, which incorporated denim, G-Star partnered with suppliers marine plastic; and in 2015 teamed up with Dystar, Artistic Milliners and Saitex, Calik, the first bluesign® denim mill, to evaluating the entire design process to with the remaining 2 per cent evaporating, produce the first bluesign-approved denim identify opportunities to reduce leaving no water left behind to be wasted fabrics, which came onto market in 2016. environmental impact. or released into the environment. The G-Star Elwood RFTPi jean, together with its counterpart D-Staq RFTPi denim jacket, The result is a denim fabric made from 100 To further enhance product sustainability, will be available in stores and online per cent organic cotton, grown without any G-Star removed all components that could beginning February 15, 2018 for both men synthetic fertilizers or toxic pesticides, and not be easily recycled — such as rivets and and women. the cleanest indigo-dyeing process to-date. zippers — replacing them with eco-finished Developed with Dystar and Artistic Milliners, metal buttons. Additionally, the brand says G-Star and its mill partner to further the Crystal Clear process uses 70 per cent it will ensure all labeling and carton sustainable innovation in the industry less chemicals, no salts and produces no packaging are responsibly sourced. Frouke and inspire a sector-wide shift in practice salt by-product during the reduction or dye Bruinsma, Corporate Responsibility Director have created an open-source access to process, consequently saving water and of G-Star Raw said that almost everyone has their sustainable denim fabric- leaving clean, recyclable water effluent. G- a pair of jeans in their closet. As a key player development processes, which can be Star also worked with Saitex to develop new in this market, G-Star Raw takes accessed through the Cradle to Cradle washing techniques that ensure 98 per cent responsibility to lead by example in Products Innovation Institute’s Fashion of the water used can be recycled and reused, promoting sustainable denim innovation. Positive Materials Library. Pakistani exporters urge relaxation in duties on yarn imports Garment exporters recently appealed the Khokhar said that despite the fact that authorities concerned to relax duties around 1.86 mn cotton bales are in stock in on yarn imports to encourage value the country, but the government is going to addition, reduce the cost of doing business facilitate the spinning industry on the plea and bridge the gap between production and that domestic cotton is of short staple. consumption. The government is all set to It will have to remove restrictions on yarn withdraw sales tax and Customs duty on imports also under the same plea, he said. cotton imports on the demand of the Since the apparel sector already had a very spinning industry, setting aside the interest limited production line, owing to the lack of growers and ginners, they said. Pakistan of latest fabric varieties at local level, harsh Readymade Garments Manufacturers and duties are resulting in significant decline in Exporters Association (Prgmea) Chief apparel exports, Khokhar said. Coordinator IjazKhokhar urged the Textile imposed on yarn imports and also strongly Division to submit the summary to the The PRGMEA Chief coordinator said apparel oppose any barrier on the import of fabric Economic Coordination Committee (ECC) of industry was already suffering with the low for garments export under free market the Cabinet for duty relaxation on yarn productivity due to shortage of cotton yarn, economy. imports in line with the benefits being high energy cost, and discriminating import The value-added textile sector is not against provided to the spinners. duties on the industry's raw material. “The the spinning sector, but it wants that the high quality cotton yarn has to be imported “With a view to bridge the soaring gap of entire textile chain should be safeguarded for production for high value-added trade deficit, the government will have to because the sector faces a tough competition finished products,” he added. provide a level-playing field to the whole with regional competitors such as textile chain instead of supporting only yarn The provision of competitively priced Bangladesh, China and India. Pakistan manufacturers, which have just around 350 quality cotton yarn to the value-added Readymade Garments Manufacturers and units, against the value-added sector of textile industry is the basic foundation Exporters Association, being one of the 10,000 units across the country.” With on which export competitiveness is built, major value-added stakeholders, is playing regard to employment generation, one he said, adding that the apparel sector, a pivotal role in bringing the foreign spinning unit generates just five per cent mostly consists of small and medium units, exchange to the country, he added. employment, while garment unit creates 95 strongly oppose any regulatory duty per cent employment, he added. 10 /APPAREL VIEWS BANGLADESH/NOVEMBER - DECEMBER 2017

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