Apparel Production Terms and Processes - Fashiondex PDF
Preview Apparel Production Terms and Processes - Fashiondex
Apparel Production Terms Processes and Bubonia_FM.indd 1 8/17/11 1:22 PM Apparel Production Terms Processes Apparel Production Terms Processes and and Bubonia_FM.indd 1 8/17/11 1:22 PM Bubonia_FM.indd 2 8/17/11 1:22 PM Apparel Production Terms Processes and Janace E. Bubonia Texas Christian University Fairchild Books New York Bubonia_FM.indd 3 8/17/11 1:22 PM Executive Editor: Olga T. Kontzias Assistant Acquisitions Editor: Amanda Breccia Editorial Development Director: Jennifer Crane Creative Director: Carolyn Eckert Assistant Art Director: Sarah Silberg Production Director: Ginger Hillman Production Editor: Jessica Rozler Apparel Production Terms Processes Special Projects Editor: Suzette Lam and Copyeditor: Joanne Slike Proofreader: Monica Lugo Indexer: Jeff Hoffman Ancillaries Editor: Noah Schwartzberg Executive Director & General Manager: Michael Schluter Associate Director of Sales: Melanie Sankel Janace E. Bubonia Cover Design: Carolyn Eckert Texas Christian University Cover Art: Steven Mark Sullivan Text Design: Mike Suh (Tronvig Group) and Barbara Barg Medley Page Layout: Barbara Barg Medley Photographers: Steven Mark Sullivan and Sarah Silberg; swatches and tools supplied by Janace E. Bubonia Illustrations: Ron Carboni, Vanessa Han, and Michael Miranda Photo Research: Candlepants Inc. and Lauren Vlassenko Copyright © 2012 Fairchild Books, a Division of Condé Nast Publications. All rights reserved. No part of this book covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means—graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, or information storage and retrieval systems—without written permission of the publisher. Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 2010925370 ISBN: 978-1-56367-762-5 GST R 133004424 Printed in the United States of America Fairchild Books TP09 New York Bubonia_FM.indd 3 8/17/11 1:22 PM Bubonia_FM.indd 4 8/17/11 1:22 PM I am honored and grateful for the opportunity to revise and develop a book that has been such a significant contribution to the field. As the author of Apparel Production Terms and Processes, I would like to dedicate this book to the original authors Debbie Ann Gioello and Beverly Berke, who created the first edition in 1979. Bubonia_FM.indd 5 8/17/11 1:22 PM C O N T E N T S Preface xiii Acknowledgments xv ONE The Global Scope of Apparel Production and Sourcing 1 TWO Apparel Supply Chain 9 THREE Brand Categories and Price Point Classifications for Mass-Produced Apparel 17 FOUR Apparel Product Categories 23 FIVE Raw Materials 33 SIX Color 51 SEVEN Fabric Specifications 67 EIGHT Thread Specifications 97 I am honored and grateful for the opportunity to revise and NINE Closures 107 develop a book that has been such a significant contribution TEN Support and Thermal Materials 133 to the field. As the author of Apparel Production Terms and ELEVEN Support and Shaping Devices 145 Processes, I would like to dedicate this book to the original TWELVE Garment Labels 155 authors Debbie Ann Gioello and Beverly Berke, who created THIRTEEN Trim and Surface Embellishments 169 the first edition in 1979. FOURTEEN Product Design (Product Development) 177 FIFTEEN Patternmaking Methods and Computer Technology 185 SIXTEEN Patternmaking Tools 215 SEVENTEEN Fit and Design Details 231 EIGHTEEN Garment Openings 259 NINETEEN Hem Finishes 267 TWENTY Manufacturers, Factory Layouts, and Production Systems 275 TWENTY-ONE Apparel Production Product Costing 281 TWENTY-TWO Marker Making, Cutting, and Bundling 289 TWENTY-THREE Production 307 TWENTY-FOUR ASTM Stitch Classifications 313 TWENTY-FIVE ASTM Seam Classifications 329 TWENTY-SIX Finishing 349 TWENTY-SEVEN Packaging 357 TWENTY-EIGHT Product Specifications 371 TWENTY-NINE Quality Assurance and Product Testing 379 Resources 389 Credits 401 ASTM Index 405 . . Index 407 . vii . . . . . . . . Parts of dres.s forms front and back . . Bubonia_FM.indd 5 8/17/11 1:22 PM Bubonia_FM.indd 7 8/17/11 1:22 PM E X T E N D ED C ON T E N T S xiii Preface 29 Men’s Furnishings xv Acknowledgments 29 Lingerie (Loungewear, Sleepwear, or Intimate Apparel) CHAPTER ONE 30 Outerwear The Global Scope of Apparel Production 31 Sportswear and Sourcing 1 31 Uniforms (Work Wear) 2 The Global Supply Chain 3 The Industrial Revolutions CHAPTER FIVE 3 First Industrial Revolution Raw Materials 33 5 Second Industrial Revolution 34 Fibers 6 Third Industrial Revolution 35 Yarns 6 Global Production Today 36 Yarn Specifications 7 REFERENCES 37 Fabrics 37 Wovens CHAPTER TWO 43 Knits Apparel Supply Chain 9 46 Twisted Fabric Structures 10 North American Industry Classification System 47 Nonwovens (NAICS) 48 Animal Skins 10 Manufacturing (Sector 31–33) 49 REFERENCES 14 Wholesale Trade 14 Retail Trade CHAPTER SIX 15 REFERENCES Color 51 52 Color Schemes CHAPTER THREE 53 Color Trends Brand Categories and Price Point Classifications 56 Color Management for Mass-Produced Apparel 17 56 Color Spaces 18 Brand Categories 58 Color Standard 18 Branded 60 Color Evaluation 18 Private Brand 61 REFERENCES 18 Licensed Brand 62 Color Plates 19 Price Point Classifications 19 Budget Price Point or Budget CHAPTER SEVEN 19 Moderate Price Point or Moderate Fabric Specifications 67 20 Better Price Point or Better 68 Fabric Categories 20 Bridge Price Point or Bridge 69 Fabric Weight 21 Designer Price Point or Designer 70 Fabric Width 70 Fabric Put-up CHAPTER FOUR 71 Colorants Apparel Product Categories 23 71 Dyes 24 Apparel Merchandise 74 Pigments 24 Infant Apparel (Infant Wear or Infants) 74 Optical Brighteners 25 Toddler Apparel (Toddler Wear or Toddlers) 74 Price Classifications for Colorants 25 Children’s Sleepwear and Underwear 75 Print Design and Development 26 Apparel Accessories 76 Print Repeat Styles 26 Activewear (Active Sportswear or Athletic Apparel) 80 Categories of Prints 27 Career Apparel (Tailored Clothing) 85 Textile Printing Methods 27 Dresses 87 Colorant Application 28 Formalwear (Eveningwear or Special Occasion) 87 Price Classifications for Printing . . . ix . . . . . . . . . . . Bubonia_FM.indd 9 8/17/11 1:22 PM E X T E N D ED C ON T E N T S 88 Exclusive Fabrics 161 Country of Origin 89 Textile Finishes 162 Manufacturer, Importer, or Dealer Identification 94 Fabric Specifications Number 95 REFERENCES 162 Care Label 165 Voluntary Label Information for Textile Apparel xiii Preface 29 Men’s Furnishings CHAPTER EIGHT Products xv Acknowledgments 29 Lingerie (Loungewear, Sleepwear, or Intimate Thread Specifications 97 163 Brand Designation Apparel) 98 Types of Thread Fibers 163 Size Designation CHAPTER ONE 30 Outerwear 98 Thread Construction Methods 166 Placement of Labels in Wearing Apparel The Global Scope of Apparel Production 31 Sportswear 100 Thread Size 167 REFERENCES and Sourcing 1 31 Uniforms (Work Wear) 101 Dyeing 2 The Global Supply Chain 102 Finishing Processes CHAPTER THIRTEEN 3 The Industrial Revolutions CHAPTER FIVE 104 Thread Use and Consumption Trim and Surface Embellishments 169 3 First Industrial Revolution Raw Materials 33 105 Thread Specifications 170 Trims 5 Second Industrial Revolution 34 Fibers 105 REFERENCES 173 Surface Embellishments 6 Third Industrial Revolution 35 Yarns 6 Global Production Today 36 Yarn Specifications CHAPTER NINE CHAPTER FOURTEEN 7 REFERENCES 37 Fabrics Closures 107 Product Design (Product Development) 177 37 Wovens 108 Buttons 178 Research CHAPTER TWO 43 Knits 114 Buttonholes and Openings 179 Design Development Apparel Supply Chain 9 46 Twisted Fabric Structures 116 Snap Fasteners 183 REFERENCES 10 North American Industry Classification System 47 Nonwovens 118 Zippers (NAICS) 48 Animal Skins 122 Hooks CHAPTER FIFTEEN 10 Manufacturing (Sector 31–33) 49 REFERENCES 124 Drawstrings, Lacing, and Ties Patternmaking Methods and Computer 14 Wholesale Trade 125 Belts and Buckles Technology 185 14 Retail Trade CHAPTER SIX 128 Other Fasteners 186 Patternmaking Stages 15 REFERENCES Color 51 131 REFERENCES 189 Pattern Development 52 Color Schemes 189 Drafting and Flat Pattern CHAPTER THREE 53 Color Trends CHAPTER TEN 194 Draping Brand Categories and Price Point Classifications 56 Color Management Support and Thermal Materials 133 200 Digital Patternmaking for Mass-Produced Apparel 17 56 Color Spaces 134 Interlinings 205 Reverse Engineering 18 Brand Categories 58 Color Standard 141 Linings 206 General Patternmaking Terms and Markings 18 Branded 60 Color Evaluation 143 REFERENCES 18 Private Brand 61 REFERENCES CHAPTER SIXTEEN 18 Licensed Brand 62 Color Plates CHAPTER ELEVEN Patternmaking Tools 215 19 Price Point Classifications Support and Shaping Devices 145 216 Equipment and Supplies for Pattern Development 19 Budget Price Point or Budget CHAPTER SEVEN 146 Shoulder-Shaping Devices 19 Moderate Price Point or Moderate Fabric Specifications 67 147 Torso Support and Shaping Devices CHAPTER SEVENTEEN 20 Better Price Point or Better 68 Fabric Categories 148 Fabric Tapes and Stays Fit and Design Details 231 20 Bridge Price Point or Bridge 69 Fabric Weight 150 Elastic 232 Fabric Grain 21 Designer Price Point or Designer 70 Fabric Width 153 REFERENCES 235 Types of Ease 70 Fabric Put-up 235 Darts and Seams CHAPTER FOUR 71 Colorants CHAPTER TWELVE 239 Gathers, Pleats, and Tucks Apparel Product Categories 23 71 Dyes Garment Labels 155 247 Casings 24 Apparel Merchandise 74 Pigments 156 Label Types 250 Waistline Treatments 24 Infant Apparel (Infant Wear or Infants) 74 Optical Brighteners 158 Label Cuts and Folds 255 Miscellaneous Design Details 25 Toddler Apparel (Toddler Wear or Toddlers) 74 Price Classifications for Colorants 160 Price Classifications for Labels 25 Children’s Sleepwear and Underwear 75 Print Design and Development 160 Government Labeling Regulations for Textile CHAPTER EIGHTEEN 26 Apparel Accessories 76 Print Repeat Styles Apparel Products Garment Openings 259 26 Activewear (Active Sportswear or Athletic Apparel) 80 Categories of Prints 160 Fiber Content 260 Placket 27 Career Apparel (Tailored Clothing) 85 Textile Printing Methods 263 Zipper Applications 27 Dresses 87 Colorant Application 28 Formalwear (Eveningwear or Special Occasion) 87 Price Classifications for Printing . . . . . ix x . EXTENDED C ONTENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bubonia_FM.indd 9 8/17/11 1:22 PM Bubonia_FM.indd 10 8/17/11 1:22 PM CHAPTER NINETEEN 324 Production Sewing Equipment Hem Finishes 267 327 REFERENCE 268 Hems CHAPTER TWENTY-FIVE CHAPTER TWENTY ASTM Seam Classifications 329 Manufacturers, Factory Layouts, and Production 330 Superimposed Seams (SS Class) Systems 275 335 Lapped Seams (LS Class) 276 Manufacturers 340 Bound Seams (BS Class) 277 Types of Factory Layouts 342 Flat Seams (FS Class) 277 Production Systems 344 Ornamental Stitching (OS Class) 277 Progressive Bundle System 345 Edge Finishing (EF Class) 278 Unit Bundle System 346 REFERENCE 279 Modular Production System (Modular Manufacturing) CHAPTER TWENTY-SIX 279 REFERENCES Finishing 349 350 Pressing CHAPTER TWENTY-ONE 350 Production Pressing Equipment Apparel Production Product Costing 281 355 REFERENCE 282 Types of Costing 284 Costing Methods CHAPTER TWENTY-SEVEN 284 Costing Process Packaging 357 287 REFERENCES 358 Shipping Packaging 358 Merchandise Packaging CHAPTER TWENTY-TWO 358 Packaging for Flat Folded or Rolled Merchandise Marker Making, Cutting, and Bundling 289 363 Packaging for Hung Merchandise 290 Marker Layout Considerations 366 Packaging Tags and Fasteners 291 Marker Layouts for Cutting Specific Fabrics 369 REFERENCES 293 Fabric Spreading 297 Cutting Fabric Layups CHAPTER TWENTY-EIGHT 304 Bundling Product Specifications 371 372 Apparel Manufacturing Specifications CHAPTER TWENTY-THREE 376 Size Specifications Production 307 377 REFERENCES 308 Approaches to Production 310 Sourcing CHAPTER TWENTY-NINE 311 Harmonized Tariff Schedule of the United States Quality Assurance and Product Testing 379 311 REFERENCES 380 Test Method Development 381 Framework of a Test Method CHAPTER TWENTY-FOUR 382 Types of Testing ASTM Stitch Classifications 313 382 Abrasion 314 Stitches Specifications 382 Appearance and Stiffness 315 Single-Thread Chain Stitches (100 Class) 383 Colorfastness 316 Hand Stitches (200 Class) 384 Dimensional Stability 317 Lock Stitches (300 Class) 384 Safety 318 Multithread Chain Stitches or Double Locked 385 Strength Chain Stitches (400 Class) 386 Structural Properties 319 Overedge Stitches (500 Class) 386 Performance Specifications 320 Cover Stitches (600 Class) 387 REFERENCES 321 Buttonhole Stitching 322 Stitch Configurations for Attaching Buttons, Snaps, 389 Resources and Hooks and Eyes 401 Credits 323 Reinforcement Stitching 405 ASTM Index 407 Index . . EXTENTED C ONTENTS . xi . . . . . . . . . . . Bubonia_FM.indd 11 8/17/11 1:22 PM
Description:The list of books you might like
