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Amsterdam. InYour Pocket Essential City Guide Autumn 2014 PDF

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Preview Amsterdam. InYour Pocket Essential City Guide Autumn 2014

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels Amsterdam Autumn 2014 Walking Tour The best sights, cafés and shops in the city centre inyourpocket.com Zandvoort aan Zee N°14 - FREE COPY Holland’s seaside resort is only a train ride away Contents E S S E N TI A L CITY GUIDES Foreword 4 A few words from the editor Arriving & Getting Around 5 How to get to and from your hotel We’ve put together some city centre sightseeing, eating, shopping Amsterdam Basics 8 and drinking highlights that can be seen and experienced in a short Getting to grips with Amsterdam preiod of time. Rent a bike to save time or follow the tour on p.9 on foot. Centrum 10 Canals, cafés & the Plantage Gay Amsterdam 54 A guide to gay-friendly Amsterdam Nieuw-West 34 Lakes, parks and modern architecture Coffeeshops 56 Where to smoke responsibly Noord 36 Rural landscapes and cutting-edge design Lifestyle Directory 60 Spas, doctors and other useful information Oost 46 Modern islands and ethnic neighbourhoods Amsterdam for kids 62 Interesting ways to spend the day with your offspring West 48 Restaurants, pubs and the Westergasfabriek Zandvoort aan Zee 63 Discover Holland’s most popular seaside resort Zuid 50 De Pijp and some of the city’s best museums List of small features Dutch pancakes 11 Zuidoost 52 Uitsmijter: order the bouncer 15 Colossal shopping centres and the home of Ajax Bitter... balls? 16 Red Light streets 18 London Calling 19 Bock Beer Festival 21 A farewell to pints 23 Documentary Film Fest 25 Movember 27 Ajax & Noord 39 Oldest gay bar 55 Football matches 60 Miraculous Amsterdam 61 Maps & Index Centrum: old centre map 31 Centrum: city centre map 32 Holland’s most popular seaside resort is only a short train ride away Noord map 44 from Amsterdam. Walk along the beach, take advantage of its excel- lent dining and nightlife, experience the thrill of a live car race or Netherlands map 66 visit the pristine nature that surrounds Zandvoort aan Zee on p.63. Venue index 67 Photo courtesy of Zandvoort aan Zee facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Autumn 2014 3 Foreword There’s so much to see in Amsterdam that one often feels obliged to forgo simple pleasures to visit as many muse- ums and attractions as is humanly possible. However, a rainy autumn day is the perfect excuse to enjoy a relatively guilt-free dash into one of Amsterdam’s centuries-old bars Publisher E S S E N TI A L known as bruin cafés. After all, we love local architecture © In Your Pocket NeCthIeTrlaYnd sGUIDES and the Dutch old masters as much as the next guy, but Weikesstraat 21, 5335 LE Alem, The Netherlands we also believe that Vermeer and Rembrandt probably ap- ISSN 2211-2480 preciated a tasty brew now and again, so why deny your- self a delicious seasonal bock beer at an historic pub whose Company Office & Accounts quaint wooden floors are either covered in sand or fall foli- Tel. (+31) 653 79 91 46, [email protected], age? We would also argue that sitting by a warm fireplace www.inyourpocket.com in a venue where generations of Amsterdammers imbibed Amsterdam In Your Pocket is printed by Microdot in the EU alcoholic beverages and conversed on the topics of the day Editorial is just as authentic a local experience as queuing up for the Editorial team Martins Zaprauskis & Theo Leerintveld Rijksmuseum (perhaps even more so). Just keep reading Layout & Design Martins Zaprauskis Amsterdam In Your Pocket to find the perfect bruin café, res- Research Theo Leerintveld taurant, hotel, shop or museum for you. Photography M. Zaprauskis & T. Leerintveld. Others courtesy of Amsterdam city governments and Amsterdam Marketing. COVER STORY Cover Martins Zaprauskis Sales & Circulation Just beyond the pretty green Theo Leerintveld, tel. (+31) 653 79 91 46, theo.leerintveld@ lights reflected in the waters inyourpocket.com of the Damrak shown on this issue’s cover are lights of a dif- Copyright notice ferent colour that attract tour- Text and photos copyright In Your Pocket Netherlands. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this pub- ists from around the globe. lication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts Amsterdam’s famous Red Light for the purpose of review, without written permission from the district is only a short walk from publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket the train station and, oddly, also is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, includes one of the city’s most Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). impressive pieces of architecture, the Old Church or Oude Kerk, a national treasure. Social media Find us on Facebook, YouTube and Twitter ABOUT IYP We have come a long way in the 22 years since we published the first In ESTONIA Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithu- LATVIA RUSSIA ania - so much so that we are today the NIROELRATNHDERN LITHUANIA largest publisher of locally-produced IRELAND BELARUS city guides in the world. The recent NETHERLANDS POLAND publication of a guide to the islands of GERMANY UKRAINE BELGIUM CZECH the Dutch Caribbean - our first in the REPUBLIC SWITZERLAND SLOAVUESNTIRAICAROHAUTNIAGARY ROMANIA GEORGIA Wnuemstbeernr oHf egmuiidspehs eprue b-li shhaesd teaakcehn ytehaer ITALY BOSNIASERBIA by In Your Pocket to well over five milli- BULGARIA MONTENEGROFYR MACEDONIA on, spread across more than 100 cities ALBANIA on three continents. And there is more GREECE to come: make sure you keep up with all DUTCH that’s new at In Your Pocket by liking us CARIBBEAN SOUTH on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpo- AFRICA cket) or following us on Twitter (twitter. com/inyourpocket). 4 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Arriving & Getting Around Arriving in Amsterdam is simple and no matter what mode BY TRAIN of transportation you choose nearly all roads lead to the Amsterdam Central Station right in the heart of the city. Amsterdam’s Central Station is a monumental building that was completed in 1889. Although an incredible achieve- BY PLANE ment in its own right, it was later criticised by urban plan- ners for having cut off the city of canals from its most es- Amsterdam Airport Schiphol (AMS) is located less than sential waterway, the River IJ. Prior to its construction many 10km southwest of the city centre. It’s one of the busiest of the city’s historic cafés were afforded an impressive vista airports in Europe receiving nearly 50 million passengers of ships’ masts bobbing up and down in the distance. To- each year, but it’s easy to navigate and pleasantly efficient. day, the massive edifice and its surroundings are a bit of You’ll find your luggage at one of 15 baggage belts and a mess as the station is being renovated and retrofitted to luggage trolleys are abundant and free. Once you clear accommodate a controversial new metro line. customs you’ll enter the large arrivals hall, which is essen- You’ll arrive at one of 15 platforms and then walk tially part airport, part train station, part shopping centre downstairs into the central hall, which is full of newsstands, and part food court. Although located under one roof, the kiosks, fast food restaurants and shops. A GWK Travelex building is divided, nominally at least, into terminals 1 - 4. (www.gwktravelex.nl - open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - Just walk straight to the main hall to find most services that 22:00) currency exchange and an ATM are available you might need including transportation to the city. An of- near the south city centre side between platforms 1/2 and ficial tourist information centre is available in terminal 4/5. For toilets that cost €0.50 you have to go up to plat- 2 (open 07:00 - 22:00). Luggage storage and lockers are form 2. At the far end of the same platform are a Burger available downstairs between terminals 1 and 2. Lockers King, Ben & Jerry’s, an upmarket restaurant called 1e Klas cost €6/24hrs and you can pay with a card or with coins. (1st Class) and a bar, Café Balkon. You can also leave your bags at the storage office for the For tourist information exit the building on the same price, but it’s only open from 06:15 - 22:45. A small city centre side and walk across the street to the official bank of lockers is also available on the ground floor be- tourist information centre. Lockers for luggage storage tween terminals 3 and 4. Banks, currency exchanges are located on the far east side of the station, but it might and ATMs are plentiful so you won’t have any problems take a while to find an empty locker and even more time to getting money. figure out how to use one. You can only pay with a credit Getting to town: If you’d like a taxi, then head to card. Place your belong- the far right of the arrivals hall after clearing customs and ings in a locker and close you’ll find a Travel Taxi office. Buses and hotel shut- the door. Find the nearest tles are available outside the terminal. Just walk straight keypad that corresponds through the arrivals hall and you’ll see the stops outside with the numbered section with the names of the city’s biggest hotels that operate of lockers you have chosen. their own shuttles. Each chain has its own schedule, which Confirm that the locker is clearly marked at the stop. You can also take the blue number listed is the locker Connexxion Schiphol Hotel (www.connexxion.nl) shuttle you have chosen and then that stops at a number of large hotels along a planned swipe your credit card. Just route. A very long list of hotels is posted at the stand. A stick it in the slot and pull single ticket costs €15.50 and children 4 - 14 travel for half it out. A ticket good for 24 price. If your hotel isn’t listed it’s possible that it can be ar- hours will be ed. When you ranged. City bus Nr.197 departs regularly for Leidseplein in want to remove your lug- the centre of Amsterdam as do other buses to a variety of gage just place the ticket into the slot and the door of your other destinations in Amsterdam. locker will automatically open. If you’re like most people you won’t even leave the ter- Getting to town: You are in the very centre of town minal and you’ll head downstairs to catch a fast train that and all of Amsterdam lays before you. Many of the city’s will take you to Amsterdam Central Station in 15 minutes best, and worst, hotels are only a short walk from here, for only €3.70. Just walk into the main hall to find a list of but if you’re staying in another section of town such as the train departures. If you haven’t already bought a ticket you Museum District you can take one of the many trams out- can purchase one from one of the many ticket machines side. Buy a ticket from the driver for €2.60. He will activate with a credit card. Just choose English as your language on the card for you, but you have to place it up against one the touch-screen then choose the following steps: single, of the ticket readers upon exiting the tram. If you plan on destination A.Centraal, 2nd class, full fare, valid today and using public transport frequently in Amsterdam it might the number of tickets. Choose your method of payment, be worth buying an extended ticket. Exit the train station insert your credit card, enter your PIN, confirm the price and walk across the street to the GVB public transporta- and then wait for your ticket to be ed. Once you reach the tion office (open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00) to Central Station see ‘Arriving by train.’ You can also buy train the left of tourist information to buy tickets. Free ferries to tickets at the Train Tickets & Services office but you’ll pay Amsterdam-Noord are available on the north side of the an extra €0.50. station on the River IJ. facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Autumn 2014 5 Arriving & Getting Around Amsterdam is a wonderfully walkable city and many of its IN YOUR POCKET MOBILE major sights are located in or near the city centre. Public transportation is excellent and we don’t recommend driv- ing within the ring of canals. Naturally, cycling is the pre- In Your Pocket is now available on all smartphones ferred Dutch method of travel and some would say it’s the via our responsive mobile platform, found at only way to truly experience the city. m.inyourpocket.com. Featuring more than 100 cities across Europe, In Your Pocket Mobile is an invaluable resource which puts our unrivalled content together BICYCLE RENTAL with the technical capabilities of today’s smartphones. There are many ways to see Amsterdam and its surround- In Your Pocket Mobile allows you to view all venues in a ings but our favourite option is to hire a set of wheels. There city on a map, quickly showing which are the closest are around 16 million bikes -that’s twice the number of cars. to your current location. Smart filters can be used to Amsterdam also has plenty of places to park your bike for ensure that only those places which matter to you are free, but be sure to remember where you left it. Please note displayed. You can also leave comments about venues, that around 40,000 bikes are stolen annually. All told, Am- as well as rate them, right in the mobile platform. You sterdam commuters cycle more than 2,000,000km every can even share your comments with your friends via day! the most popular social networks. Point your phone’s web browser to m.inyourpocket.com now. AMSTERBIKE Bike and scooter rental.QH-4, Piet Heinkade 11a, tel. (+31) 204 19 90 63, www.amsterbike.eu. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed, Sat, Sun. Prices: €8.50/3 hours, €12.50/day. BLACK BIKES A full day bike rental will set you back only €10 and it has the longest opening hours in the city.QF-9, Lijnbaansgracht 282, tel. (+31) 206 70 85 31, info@hetzwartefietsenplan. nl, www.black-bikes.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. Also on Eerste Constantijn Huygensstraat 88; Maasstraat 106 - 108; Tweede Helmersstraat 49; Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 146. TJA BOAT RENTAL MIKE’S BIKE RENTAL SHOP Mike’s Bikes is famous all over Europe for its sightseeing SLOEP DELEN tours, but we recommend its beach cruisers with special This company rents 15 electric boats from two locations at tires that hardly ever go flat. Each bike also comes with two Nassaukade 69 and at Borneosteiger 1. You can reserve a locks, which isn’t a bad idea in Amsterdam where bike theft date and time online. All boats are powered by electricity is as common as dope smoke.QG-7, Kerkstraat 134, tel. and they’re easy to navigate even without any prior ex- (+31) 206 22 79 70, www.mikesbiketoursamsterdam. perience.QC-6, Nassaukade 69, tel. (+31) 204 19 10 07, com. Open 09:00 - 18:00. (€5 - 15). JA www.sloepdelen.nl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. €50/hour. RECYCLED RENTALS This company claims to have the cheapest bike rental BUSES in town and at only €5/day, it might be right.QA-2, Spuistraat 84a, tel. (+31) 654 68 14 29, rentals@ City buses are primarily used to reach outlying suburbs or as recycledrentals.com, www.recycledrentals.com. a final option once the trams have stopped running. Night buses operate from midnight until 07:00 with routes con- necting Central Station, Rembrandtplein and Leidseplein. CAR RENTAL AVIS Cars are divided in small, medium and large categories and are available from €40/day.QSchiphol Airport (Aank- omstpassage 5), tel. (+31) 206 55 60 50, www.avis.nl. Open 06:30 - 23:30. Also at E-8, Nassaukade 380. A EUROPCAR Cars from €40/day.QSchiphol Airport (Aankomstpas- sage 10), tel. (+31) 203 16 41 90, www.europcar.com. Open 06:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 23:00. Also at E-9, There’s nothing like autumn in Amsterdam Overtoom 197. A 6 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Arriving & Getting Around FERRIES Most Amsterdam ferries are available behind the Central Station and connect the city centre with Amsterdam Noord on the other side of the River IJ. In total there are six ferry lines which transport pedestrians, bicycles and sometimes mopeds. All of the lines are free. AMSTERDAM PASSENGER TERMINAL Amsterdam in particular and the Netherlands in general have a long seafaring tradition. Passenger Terminal Am- sterdam hosts more than 250,000 people every year. The striking architectural monument is within walking distance of the Central Station and only 25km from the Bikes, boats and canals in the Grachtengordel North Sea. The cosy hallway offers a giant chess game, TAXIS some food venues, a functional kids corner and a lug- gage room with instructions in six languages.QO-1, Piet Taxis can be hailed on the street or found at one of more Heinkade 27, tel. (+31) 205 09 10 00, fax (+31 ) 205 09 10 than 50 official taxi ranks. The ranks, identifiable by blue 09, [email protected], www.ptamsterdam.com. boards, can be found near tourist attractions such as the TJAL Dam, Leidesplein and Rembrandtplein. METRO ELECTRIC TAXI COMPANY TAXI-E This cab company uses environmentally-friendly electric The metro is fast and efficient. It’s a combination of under- cars. Free wi-fi is included in the price, credit cards are ac- ground subway and light rail on the surface (sneltram). Only cepted and it offers cheap rates to the airport.Qtel. (+31) some 3.5km of track between the Central Station and the 881 00 44 44, www.taxi-e.nl. AW Amstel are actually located underground. The four metro TCA TAXI lines all depart from Central Station and head out to their This 24-hour taxi company has stands at the Central Sta- final destinations at Westwijk, Gein, Gaasperplas and Iso- tion, Leidseplein, Stopera City Hall, Westermarkt, Frederik- latorweg. A new line to Noord will be added in the future, splein and Haarlemmerplein, but you can also call them hence all of the construction around town. and order a cab any time of the day or night. Qtel. (+31) 207 77 77 77, www.tcataxi.nl. Open 24hrs. PETROL STATIONS TRAINS TEXACO QD-7, Marnixstraat 250. Open 24hrs. Also at Sarphatis- Train travel in the Netherlands is really the best option for traat 225. Open 07:00 - 21:00. A getting around and there are three types of trains available. The High-Speed line covers larger distances quickly, which PUBLIC TRANSPORT is ideal when travelling to Germany, Great Britain or Bel- gium, while the Stoptrein, not surprisingly, makes frequent GVB (www.gvb.nl) is Amsterdam’s public transportation stops between bigger cities. Finally, the Intercity offers fast company and it provides integrated metro, tram and bus connections between Dutch cities. There are NS ticket ma- service throughout the city and its surrounding areas. Since chines at every station. You can pay cash or use a Maestro 2010 a comprehensive OV-chipcard ticket system allows PIN at the NS Tickets & Service desk at major stations and you to travel on the metro, trams, buses and even trains us- the machines at Schiphol Airport and Amsterdam Central ing just one card. There are a variety of OV-chipcard options also accept credit cards. You can easily find all train depar- and you can upload them with travel credits at special ma- tures as well as ticket price information at www.ns.nl. chines located at stations and even in most supermarkets. You can purchase OV-chipcards for 24, 48, 72, 96, 120, 144 TRAMS and 168 hours, which afford you unlimited travel on all trams, buses, metros and night buses and an economical Amsterdammers love their trams and you should, too! They way to explore the city. A one-hour OV card can be pur- provide the best way of getting around the city and run chased onboard from GVB drivers and conductors, but a from 06:00 - 00:30. You shouldn’t have to wait longer than premium is charged for this ticket. It costs €2.70 for one 10 minutes at any tram stop. One-hour tickets for journeys hour of unlimited travel on different buses and trains in across the city can be bought from newsagents or tram the city that begins once you board your selected mode of drivers. They cost €2.70, but if you plan on travelling a lot transportation and check in by placing it next to the scan- you’re better off purchasing a 24-hour ticket for €7. You ners near the doors. You must also scan your card when have to touch the scanner near the doors of the tram when leaving the vehicle. entering and exiting the vehicle. facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Autumn 2014 7 Amsterdam Basics Read on and find out why the Dutch allow people to smoke NATIONAL HOLIDAYS joints, but not to operate a bicycle while intoxicated. Plenty of other funny facts about the Netherlands are available here. On public holidays shops and museums often close earlier and some stay closed the whole day. Schools, city councils, post offices and banks are closed and ALCOHOL some shops and restaurants may also take the day off. Amsterdam is famous for its cafés and restaurants so you’re January 1 New Year’s Day (Nieuwjaarsdag) never far from a tasty brew or a glass of wine. Heineken, April 3, 2015 Good Friday (Goede Vrijdag) Amstel and Bavaria are the nation’s biggest brewers but April 5, 2015 Easter Sunday (Pasen) other large local brands include Grolsch and Hertog Jan. A April 6, 2015 Easter Monday (Pasen) wide variety of excellent Belgian brews are also on offer at April 27, 2015 King’s Day (Koningsdag) most bars, but keep an eye out for cafés selling beer from May 1 Labour Day (Dag van de Arbeid) Amsterdam’s own microbreweries ‘t IJ and De Prael. No trip May 4 Remembrance of the Dead to Amsterdam would be complete without a visit to one of (Nationale Herdenking) the ancient bars at the beginning of the Zeedijk that spe- May 5 Liberation Day (Dag van de Vrijheid) cialise in locally distilled liqueurs and Dutch gin known as May 9 Mother’s Day (Moederdag) jenever. You must be at least 16 years old to drink beer or May 13 Ascension Day (Hemelvaartsdag) wine and 18 to imbibe spirits. If you look too young you’ll May 23 - 24 Whitsun (Pinksteren) be carded, so always bring identification. This holds true June 20 Father’s Day (Vaderdag) for supermarkets and off-licences, too. If you’re a little too June 26 Veterans’ Day (Veteranendag) tipsy you’ll probably be asked (firmly, yet kindly) to leave September 21 Budget Day (Prinsjesdag) the premises and if you don’t cooperate you could end up December 5 St. Nicolas (Sinterklaas) spending a night sobering up in a drunk tank. December 25 - 26 Christmas (Kerstmis) December 31 New Year’s Eve (Oudejaarsdag) CYCLING Being one of the smaller nations in the world, which is basi- MAIL & PHONES cally as flat as a pancake, the Netherlands is an attractive country for cyclists. Add to that an unbelievable selection All In Your Pocket guides list country codes before all tel- of cycling paths and you’ll see why the Dutch love their ephone numbers. The Dutch country code is (+31), but bikes so much. Unfortunately, riding a bike in big cities like of course, you only have to use this if you’re dialling from Amsterdam can still be a nerve-racking experience. Cars, abroad. If you’re already in the Netherlands and want to call trucks, trams, buses, scooters and even pedestrians can all one of the numbers in this guide, just ignore the (+31) pre- serve as terrifying obstacles that seem to pop up into your fix, dial 0 and then the nine-digit number. field of vision from nowhere, but other cyclists can also be just as dangerous. Although parents are confident enough MONEY in bicycle safety to attach carts to their bikes to transport their children around town, loads of other cyclists ignore Since 2002, a large part of the European Union has adopt- traffic rules and basically ride wherever they like often caus- ed the euro as its local currency and the Netherlands is ing mayhem on the streets. no exception. One euro contains 100 euro cents. There are coins of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 euro cents, and also of 1 and 2 euro. Banknotes are available with the following values: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500. Although a collec- tion of €200 and €500 bills in your wallet might make you feel like Bill Gates, bear in mind that they’re almost never accepted in shops or restaurants. You can exchange and withdraw money at most large banks; there are plenty in the centre of Amsterdam. All Dutch banks accept Visa and MasterCard at their cash dispensers, but bear in mind that ATMs are ridiculously scarce in Amsterdam often leading to huge queues near hot spots like Leidseplein. At the train station you can find a GWK Travelex shop (Station- splein, open Mon - Sat 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00). Many restaurants, hotels and shops accept Visa and Mas- terCard, but to avoid disappointment, be sure to carry some money with you as some bars only accept cash and others require a minimum purchase of €15 - 20 to use a Navigate a maze of bikes next to Central Station Lya Cattel card. 8 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Amsterdam Basics PROSTITUTION CITY CENTRE TOUR It may surprise you to know that the profession that has helped to make Amsterdam a household word across Most people arrive at Amsterdam’s Central Station so the globe, only became legal in 2000. For years, the that’s as good a place to start as any other. Walk down Dutch did what they always do when confronted with the touristy Damrak, which is lined with bars, souvenir a sticky social problem. The police simply turned a blind shops and fast food joints. If you’d like to start your day eye to the practice and tolerated it. The cops in the Red in true Dutch fashion then grab a deep-fried frikandel Light district only rousted sex workers if they became and frites at Manneken Pis or just keep walking down too aggressive with passers-by showing off body parts the street. Just ahead is Dam Square home to street or tapping on the glass. Today, window shopping on the performers as well as the National Monument, a 22m- Oudezijds Achterburgwal is a popular tourist attraction, high pillar that looks like a white phallus. On the op- but please bear in mind that these ladies are there to posite end of the square you’ll find Royal Palace Am- make a living and are not part of some open-air zoo. sterdam whose interior is so opulent you’ll think you’ve Be respectful and, whatever you do, don’t take any pho- been transported to Versailles. tographs up close. Use a zoom lens from a distance if Next walk down the Kalverstraat, which is a pedes- you want some photographic evidence of your visit to trian shopping street where you can find major fashion Europe’s erotic pleasure capital. For more information brands as well as cafés and fast food shops. Head down see Nightlife. the street until you see the Spui Square on your right. It’s full of cafés as well as one of Amsterdam’s premiere ROADS English-language bookshops, The American Book Center. For affordable Dutch food you can’t beat ‘t Despite the excellent state of Dutch roads and cars (it’s Lieverdje just around the corner on the Singel. We al- compulsory in the Netherlands to have your car checked ways order the uitsmijter or the pea soup. If you’re look- for faults at least once every two years) traffic quite fre- ing for the ultimate Amsterdam bruin café experience quently jams at a large number of bottlenecks. The ma- then have a drink and a soup and sandwich at Café jority of Dutch drivers never break the speed limit, and Hoppe on the Spui, which has been around since 1670. considering the severity of traffic fines, this seems wise Continue your walk down the Singel until you reach the enough. Driving through a red light? This will cost you famous Flower Market where you can buy seeds, bulbs €160. Driving too fast within city limits? Be prepared and lots of souvenirs. Pass the Mint Tower (Munttoren) to pay €180! And as soon as you exceed the maximum and walk down Reguliersbreestraat, a popular gay- speed by 50km/h you’ll lose your driving licence and be friendly street flanked by loads of restaurants, until you fined. Within city limits you must drive 50km/h, outside reach Rembrandtplein. Walk across the bridge over city limits 80 and on motorways 100 or 120 (check the the Amstel to Waterlooplein where you’ll find many of road signs). In the Netherlands you must drive on the Amsterdam’s Jewish sights, including the Portuguese right side of the road, and you’re not allowed to cycle on Synagogue. The Rembrandthuis Museum is just motorways! You don’t want to know how many tourists around the corner to the left on Jodenbreestraat. If you are plucked off the road by police each year. walk across another bridge you’ll reach Sint Antonies- breestraat, which leads to the Nieuwmarkt, home to SMOKING fashionable cafés and bars as well as Den Waag, Am- sterdam’s most impressive medieval gate. Until recently, smoking was very popular in the Nether- From here you can explore Amsterdam’s Chinatown lands, but since the introduction of the smoking ban on on the Zeedijk. Wing Kee and the stylish New King are July 1, 2008, smoking has become a lot less common. This both good choices for dinner. If you go left from the is partially because the government started a huge cam- Zeedijk you’ll run across Oudezijds Achterburgwal and paign to make people aware of the effects of smoking on Oudezijds Voorburgwal, the main canal streets of the their health. These days you can have a wild night out and Red Light district. The bars, coffeeshops and prostitutes come home without your hair and clothes reeking of ciga- behind their windows are the main attractions here, but rette smoke. For some this is an enormous benefit and oth- if it’s still not too late you can also visit the Oude Kerk, ers (read: smokers) find it a pain and banish themselves to the city’s oldest church. The Hash, Marijuana & Hemp the many smoker’s rooms in the country. Thanks to unclear Museum, however, is open every day until 23:00. If you rules you may suddenly find yourself in a smoke-filled pub. walk down the Zeedijk toward the train station you’ll This is usually in bars with just a single staff member: the also come across what could be the world’s oldest gay boss. Or you may find yourself in a pub that flouts the ban and lesbian bar, Café ‘t Mandje. Taste a traditional on smoking. This will not have any consequences for you. Dutch liqueur or spirit like jenever at De Ooievaar or If you light a cigarette in a pub and the manager tolerates In de Olofspoort (closed Tuesdays) near the end of the this, then the manager will receive a fine upon inspection. Zeedijk are both good choices. For excellent microbrews The Netherlands is of course also known for its wafts of visit Proeflokaal de Prael on Oudezijds Armsteeg. marijuana (see Coffeeshops). facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Autumn 2014 9 Centrum Amsterdam Centrum is the district that most of the city's SYMBOL KEY visitors want to see and it's also the place where most people end up arriving. The Central Station is the city's most renowned and popular transport hub and all of the A Accepts credit cards P Air conditioning city centre lies before it. Centrum, as it's called, is actually quite large, so you may want to use public transportation O Casino T Child-friendly to get around, but with a comfortable pair of trainers all U Facilties for disabled I Fireplace of its sights and sounds can be covered on foot. The infa- mous Red Light district with its bars and window shopping V Home delivery E Live music is only a short walk across the square from the station as are the Zeedijk with its restaurants and Chinatown. The world B Outside seating X Smoking section famous belt of canals, or simply the Grachtengordel, is also S Takeaway W Wifi just a hop, skip and a jump from here not to mention the Dam and Leidse Square (Leidseplein). The popular Jordaan neighbourhood in the west is full of bohemian cafés, bars UPMARKET and shops, while the Plantage area in the east is home to some of the city's best attractions including the Artis Zoo NH CARLTON AMSTERDAM and the Hortus Botanical Gardens. You’d have a tough time finding a more central hotel than the NH Carlton, which is conveniently located near ARRIVING IN CENTRUM the Flower Market and Amsterdam’s busiest shopping street, the Kalverstraat. All rooms are equipped with If you're already in Centrum there's a good chance that you satellite TV, mini-bars, coffee/tea sets, phone, writing arrived at the Central Station. From here you can take trams desk, free wireless internet access, private bathrooms No.1, 2 or 5 to the canals and Leidseplein. Trams No.13 and and tasteful interiors. Deluxe rooms are more spacious 17 will take you to the Jordaan, while tram No.9 will take and boast a more modern-looking décor. You can also you to Rembrandtplein in the east and farther afield to the dine on Mediterranean cuisine at the in-house IlGirasole Plantage area. restaurant.QB-3, Vijzelstraat 4, tel. (+31) 206 22 22 66, www.nh-hotels.com. 218 rooms (standard from €161). ACCOMMODATION PJHAULGBKXW hhhh Centrum has it all from hostels to award-winning design BOUTIQUE & DESIGN HOTELS hotels, but rates can be obscenely high so book in advance. HOTEL NOTTING HILL AMSTERDAM CREAM OF THE CROP Located on the edge of the city centre only a short walk from Amsterdam South’s bustling De Pijp district, this styl- INTERCONTINENTAL AMSTEL AMSTERDAM ish boutique hotel offers 67 comfortable rooms equipped Already a hotel in 1867, the building gracefully combines with LED TVs, climate control, wireless internet access, Ne- antique interior design elements with modern conve- spresso machines, tea sets, bathrobes and slippers, safes niences, so you can enjoy regal surroundings without and private bathrooms as well as designer interiors in neu- feeling like your trapped in a museum where you’re not tral beige and black colours. Its Brasserie Londen is also a allowed to touch anything or to raise your voice. A health good place for a casual meal, but locals often visit for its club with a swimming pool is also at your disposal as well as spectacular Notting Hill high tea. A terrace on the neigh- a restaurant, brasserie and bar.QI-8, Professor Tulpplein bouring canal is also available.QWesteinde 26, tel. (+31) 1, tel. (+31) 206 22 60 60, amsterdam.intercontinental. 205 23 10 30, www.hotelnottinghill.nl. 67 rooms (dou- com. 79 rooms. PTJHA6UFLGK� bles from €149). PAULGBKW hhhh DCWhhhhh RENAISSANCE AMSTERDAM HOTEL This luxurious five-star hotel, which is part of the Marriott group, offers over 400 modern, tastefully decorated rooms in the city centre only a five-minute walk from the Central Station. Spread out over several buildings, the hotel was completely renovated in 2009 and its accommodation in- cludes all of the amenities one would expect from a five- star hotel including king size beds, wireless internet ac- cess, climate control, large flat screen TVs and a few extras like bathrobes, slippers and fresh fruit. .QA-1, Kattengat 1, tel. (+31) 206 21 22 23, www.marriott.com. 402 rooms. PJHAUFLGKDW hhhhh Explore the city centre on foot or on a bike 10 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com

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