Copyright © 2014 by Arthur Aguirre All Rights Reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any manner without the express written consent of the publisher, except in the case of brief excerpts in critical reviews or articles. All inquiries should be addressed to Skyhorse Publishing, 307 West 36th Street, 11th Floor, New York, NY 10018. Skyhorse Publishing books may be purchased in bulk at special discounts for sales promotion, corporate gis, fund- raising, or educational purposes. Special editions can also be created to speci�cations. For details, contact the Special Sales Department, Skyhorse Publishing, 307 West 36th Street, 11th Floor, New York, NY 10018 or [email protected]. Skyhorse® and Skyhorse Publishing® are registered trademarks of Skyhorse Publishing, Inc.®, a Delaware corporation. Visit our website at www.skyhorsepublishing.com. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Aguirre, Arthur. America's best barbecue : recipes and techniques for prize-winning ribs, wings, brisket, and more / Arthur Aguirre. pages cm ISBN 978-1-62636-256-7 (alk. paper) 1. Barbecuing--United States. 2. Cooking (Smoked foods) 3. Barbecuing--Competitions--United States. I. Title. II. Title: Recipes and techniques for prize-winning ribs, wings, brisket, and more. III. Title: America's best barbeque. TX840.B3A339 2013 641.7'6--dc23 2013031766 Printed in China CONTENTS Introduction A -W B R WARD INNING ARBECUE ECIPES B R OVINE ECIPES H R AWG ECIPES Y R ARDBIRD ECIPES M -Q R EXI UE ECIPES F C F AMILY OOKOUT AVORITES S P & S D MALL LATES IDE ISHES S R EAFOOD ECIPES O R THER ECIPES R , S , & M UBS AUCES ORE A , C , A P L CKNOWLEDGMENTS ONTRIBUTORS ND RODUCT ISTINGS A ' T BBQ C MERICAS OP OMPETITIONS Index INTRODUCTION BBQ.I.AM A s if I needed to write a cookbook to show how passionate I am about barbecue. My devotion for smoked hunks of meat culled from heritage cattle, hogs, and fowl was an evolution that started a decade ago. It began the day I realized that I had no idea what barbecue was or how to prepare such smoky goodness. is epiphany came aer I served undercooked pieces of chicken to my friends at a backyard gathering. Not to be discouraged, I invested in the most popular type of grill in the US, a propane gas grill. Unfortunately, over time the grill built up grease and I had myself a �reball on the deck of my apartment. In a panic, I showered the low-grade grill with water that not only put the �re out, but also gave the neighbor’s outdoor furniture below a �lthy grease bath. For years, I overcooked and undercooked every protein put on the steel grates. Even those TV food channels failed to improve my culinary skills. How could that be? ey make grilling look so easy! is changed, however, when my wife bought me an off-the- shelf smoker that could only cook for a few hours at a time until the �re smothered itself due to poor air�ow. Nonetheless, I learned about indirect cooking from that �imsy �ame extinguisher. As a result, I no longer burned my food and everything I cooked from that moment on was deemed edible by friends and family. Little did I know that other folks had the same issues I had endured. ose of us that are considered barbecue challenged, myself included, �nd solace on the Internet, where barbecue forums allow enthusiasts the ability to discuss shortcomings and improve our game over the embers. rough this community, I picked up on barbecue concepts and I proudly showed off my smoking skills to friends who awed at the sight of smoke rings and moisture oozing from the meat �bers. Along the way, my barbecue became re�ned and I became comfortable with cooking traditional barbecue in addition to the foods I grew up feasting on, which I like to call So-Cal Chicano cuisine. Such gluttonous recipes include tamales, albondigas, mole, and more. is Southern California transplant realized that the Heartland was looking for something like this, so I started my unique style called Mexi-Que. My goal is to blend two traditions into one product and the results have been amazing. My barbecue competition team, Major League Grilling, formed when my good friend Scott omas invited me to compete in his local backyard competition. I’ve been hooked ever since. e friends I talked to that day are still around and we talk about Q’ing all day long. Competition barbecue allows me to meet new folks and make new friends from all different backgrounds. And while I’m at it, winning trophies is great for my competitive nature. Not all of us are born into barbecue royalty and handed a wealth of knowledge from generations of ground-digging pit builders (although that would be awesome). I suggest doing the second best thing, �nding yourself a friend born into barbecue royalty! All kidding aside, there is no secret to barbecuing; it just takes patience and practice. How do you manage time in your busy life for patience and practice, you say? Start by lighting a �re; drag the kids away from their computers, turn on some tunes, and chill outside with a can of barley and hops. e purpose of this book is to enjoy making the best barbecue in America, so I hope you brought enough cans for the both of us. Before this journey began, I knew nothing about barbecue. I didn’t know the various types of ribs. I didn’t know it took longer than one hour to make pulled pork. I didn’t know to that pink chicken was a bad thing. Now all I do is talk, eat, sleep and breathe barbecue … and I win! In my �rst competition in 2010, my team was called Work of Art BBQ team. We placed third in ribs, third in pork steaks, second to last in appetizers and fourth place overall (out of 18 teams) at the inaugural GrillinFools Backyard Barbecue Bash. At the end of that contest, I was exhausted, my back hurt and I was stressed out from turning in the food. For some bizarre reason, I loved every minute of it. But in the back of my mind, I had thoughts that if I didn’t do well, this would be the �rst and last barbecue competition I ever do. Fortunately, I did do well and knowing that I can get better was all the validation I needed to pursue more competitions. With the help of my wife, Jamie, and my buddy, Tony “MacGyver” St. John, I rebranded our team Major League Grilling (MLG). In addition, for fun I started a barbecue blog under the same name, www.majorleaguegrilling.com. Aer some encouragement from Scott omas, the founder of the www.grillinfools.com blog, I began blogging about my experiences in competition barbecue and Mexi-Que recipes. For the next couple of years, I wrote and folks positively responded to my barbecue musings. As a result, my blog receives over twenty thousand hits a month for something I thought only interested me. Winning obviously plays a big part of my success. As MLG, we have won awards in all four main categories (chicken, ribs, pork and brisket). Furthermore, I win with the least impressive setup you could �nd at a barbecue competition. e best description I can offer is that we look like a destitute tailgate party. at may be a bit harsh, but I like it that way. It’s fun going up against the guys sleeping in the RV’s and hauling ten thousand dollar smokers. at is what motivates me and I have all the con�dence in the world in my abilities. As a result, my recipe for success is lots of practice and the desire to work harder than everyone else. Despite the early success, I have only just begun and I keep improving. ere are many proven barbecue cooks that have more accolades and trophies than I do; I tend to look up to them and if possible pick their brains about barbecue. I found that learning from the successful pitmasters is a way for good cooks to become great. Major League Grilling is on the right track, but much more work needs to be done. But I got one thing that very few barbecue icons have … a cookbook! A PIT COOKER’S CREED T here is no such thing as bad barbecue when it’s cooked right. is is the only piece of information you should know. Too much emphasis on what kind of sauce or rub you use, or what region of the country you are from, and you’ll miss out on what really matters. Cooking great barbecue has always been—and always will be—about the basics: heat, smoke, and meat. Let me be clear: real barbecue by my de�nition is smoking meat over wood/charcoal at a low temperature until it is tender and juicy. But I happen to think grilling is also a perfectly acceptable method for adding �avor to various cuts of meat. In fact, for the purpose of this cookbook, all outdoor cooking techniques will hereby be called barbecue. Why? Because I love diverse forms of outdoor cooking and I’ve spent some of my existence on the West Coast where anything on the grill is called barbecue. As I mentioned above, the best barbecue is cooked right. Well, how do we know when it’s right? Acquiring skills and techniques is the best way to know this. Starting with the basics will help the most inexperienced cook understand how to produce the best barbecue. Lesson number one: we should all know the internal temperatures for safe consumption. Internal Temperature Chart (degrees F) Ground Meat: 160 Poultry: 165 Seafood: 140 Pork (Medium): 140 Pork (Well Done): 160 Beef (Rare): 120 Beef (Medium): 140 Beef (Well Done): 160 Memorize this chart; otherwise keep coming back to it for reference. ese temperatures are necessary to know when your barbecue is done. Knowing that, invest in an internal read thermometer. It takes the guesswork out and you do not have to sacri�ce a piece of meat by cutting into it to make sure it is done. I love barbecue because it is a hobby that requires little or no cooking experience. Not every outdoor pitmaster was handed down generations of barbecue knowledge. Heck, Dad probably had a propane grill he found on sale at Wally World, not anything to brag about. For a newbie to barbecue, it can be overwhelming. Despite this, the idea is to expand horizons and waistlines because I want to push the limits of traditional barbecue while paying a great deal of homage to the classics. Lesson number two: the great thing about cooking in general is that you can only get better with … practice! at’s right, practice, a word that’s like �ngernails on a chalkboard. At this point, if you choose to separate yourself from the same repetitive cooking style, practicing can make good barbecue great. All of a sudden, every time you cook, the food becomes consistent. e meat melts in your mouth and is juicy, while your skill and “feel” for cooking is enhanced. Practice is a grill technician’s best friend. When I mention “feel,” most seasoned pitmasters know what I’m talking about. It is not about cooking barbecue on a timer; rather, it is what comes naturally. ere will be a time when you can pick up a slab of ribs out of the pit and say, “It’s done.” at’s barbecue! THE GRILL TECHNICIAN (#GRILLTECH) G rill technicians (GTs) are a special breed. ese folks are above-average pitmasters who know their way around a grill. Knowledge possessed by GTs ranges from when to apply sauce to explaining the Minion Method. is level of mastery can lead GTs to believe they have better barbecue than any restaurant in the area … and more than likely, they are right. How do you know if you’re a grill technician? Here are some telltale signs: • Ability to tell when barbecue is done by how many cans of beer were consumed. • You cook barbecue year-round. • You clear snow from the backdoor to the pits. • Saturday night is reserved for all-night cooks. • You have more grills than you have kids. • Foil is your friend. • In addition to your beer fridge, you have a meat fridge. • You store barbecue TV shows on DVR. • You wake up smelling like smoke. • You turned your cooler into a food-holding hot box. • You’ve explained to a newbie that fall-off-the-bone ribs are overcooked. • You can fabricate a smoker out of a �le cabinet. • anksgiving turkey is brined in plastic garbage bags. • You accrue decorative pig trinkets. • You have a �re stoker system that looks like the cockpit of a spaceship. • You believe that every time someone boils ribs, a kitty dies. And for the tenacious grill technician who also has a blog and posts photos on social media … • Having more food photos than family pictures (guilty!). is does not suggest GTs are detached; just the opposite. For instance, the time spent around a grill attracts the whole family. Low and slow barbecue allows much-needed time spent outdoors partaking in activities like a relaxing game of washers or cornhole. In fact, neighbors dri over when they smell the smoke, followed by friends stopping by for a peek of what is cooking. Next thing you know, the whole neighborhood is �ocking to your patio for some of the best Q around. Barbecue is not only a passion, it builds communities. TYPES OF COOKERS L esson number three: know your cooker! ere are a variety of cookers on the market today, but many folks fail to choose the one that is right for them. Mistakes lead to grills being le outside to rust, then placed on the sidewalk for free. Nobody is at fault; most likely the grill wasn’t the right �t for the griller. However, a little research would solve this issue. Here are some of the most popular types of cookers on the market: Kettle ($80 to $500)—e standard in mass-produced backyard cookers. An inexpensive and durable design that has generated a cult culture spread across generations. A kettle is a great cooker to handle direct and indirect grilling for the novice and GT alike. Drum Smoker ($0 to $500)—Typically constructed using a �y-�ve-gallon drum barrel and customized to the pitmaster’s speci�cations. For example, drum smokers can have between one and three grill grates inside, swivel casters for mobility, multiple temperature gauges, and a custom paint job. e options are endless and you’ll get the most bang for your buck. Bullet ($50 to $500)—Varies in size and grill space. e design saves space on the backyard patio and is able to cook at low and slow temperatures when carefully watched. Bullet smokers furnished with a water pan are recommended but this does not indicate better quality. Look for durable materials, proper air�ow, and ample grill space on a good bullet smoker. Pellet ($500 to $1,500)—Designed in various con�gurations such as kamado, offset, and vertical cabinets. Pellet cookers use compressed wood pellets (available in many varieties), which are loaded in a hopper and burn at a controlled temperature. is is a set-it-and-forget-it cooker. ey are somewhat limited on grill space, but convenience more than makes up for the shortcomings. Kamado ($800 to $1,300)—You’ll be amazed at the amount of fuel you will save! Ceramic cookers provide excellent insulation, which is great for smoking meats, but don't go crazy with all that carcass at one time … they offer the least amount of grill space. Despite this, kamado cookers are easy to use and will make you look like a bona�de pitmaster. Insulated Gravity Fed ($1,000 to $3,000)—For serious barbecue competition cooks or catering businesses. Efficient fuel consumption and plenty of rack space for lots of meat are the strengths of this cooker. is set-it-and-forget-it smoker is worth the investment.
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