American Costume, 1840-1920 PDF
Preview American Costume, 1840-1920
AMEBHN COSTUME ESTELLE ANSLEY WORRELL From buckskins to bloomers— 283 designs to re-create the most popular styles of a bygone era V*t*0i AMEBIC,! COSTOME ESTELLE ANSLEY WORRELL America's clothinghasbeen like herpeople: pioneeringandnostalgic, practical andout- landish, hard-workingandhard-playing. Inthe yearsbetween 1840and 1920, Americans were inventinga newsocietyand it isnatural that manyuniquestylesofclothingappearedin thesedecades. From this whirlwind oforiginal fashions Estelle Worrell organized a showof 283 significantstylesthattell the storyofwhat — — Americanswore and why asourcountry expanded and matured. The westward migration producedfolk heroesand clothingstyles which will beforever associated with America's growingyears: the mountain man, thegold miner, the cowboy. In the cities emerged anAmericanaristocracy thatsetstyles which were oftenfollowedin Europe. Duringtheseyears, Americanwomen contorted theirbodies within whaleboneand — wireundergarments and then led the world inadoptingliberatingclothing. From the darkerchaptersofAmericanhistory emerged certain stylesthat characterized slaves, In- dians, child laborers, and angry social protes- torsofthe early 20th century. There were moments ofhigh drama as womenoutfitted theirfightingmen inhomespununiformsfor the Civil War, the Spanish-American Warand the "Great War." Inhappiertimes, there were alsotheuniforms ofKeystone cops, earlybik- ers, andbaseball playerstoremember. Not onlycan America's pastbe envisioned — from the hundreds offashions here itcan be recreated throughpatterns and construction steps. Each oftheprecise, beautifully executed figures includestextdetailsforauthenticcolor, trim, hairstyles, accessories, andvariations. Chronological arrangementandcross- referencesmake iteasytofind a costumefrom any specificstyleforthe workmen, ladies, gentlemen, children, and soldiers ofeighty yearsofAmerican society. Here isapageantof fashionsforthetheater; for masquerades; the puppeteerordollmaker; the illustrator; and — the creatorofminiatures anyone whoenjoys the nostalgia ofchthingstyles. Itisa richand varied heritage fha isstill avisible partof t shion today. Now *;th AMERICAN COS- VTE all theimpel fcahtstylesofthe era are gain on paraoV. flMEBPM COSTUME AMERICAN COSTUME written and illustrated by ESTELLE ANSLEY WORRELL Stackpole Books SAUSAL!TO PUBLIC library Thefrontispiece depicts outdoor clothing ofthe 1870s and 1880s. Clockwise from the left are Figures 144, 131, 144, 185, 183. AMERICAN COSTUME: 1840 TO 1920 © Copyright 1979 by Estelle Ansley Worrell Published by STACKPOLE BOOKS Cameron and Kelker Streets P.O. Box 1831 Harrisburg, Pa. 17105 Published simultaneously in Don Mills, Ontario, Canada by Thomas Nelson & Sons, Ltd. Allrightsreserved,includingtherighttoreproducethisbookorportionsthereofinanyformorbyany means, electronicormechanical, includingphotocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. All inquiries should be addressedtoStackpoleBooks,CameronandKelkerStreets,P.O.Box1831,Harrisburg, Pennsylvania 17105. Printed in the U.S.A. Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data Worrell, Estelle Ansley, 1929- American costume, 1840 to 1920. Includes index. — — — 1. Costum—e United Stat—es Histor—y 19th century. 2. Costume United States History 20th century. I. Title. GT610.W67 391'.00973 78-25854 ISBN 0-8117-0106-9 Contents Preface 7 Acknowledgments 9 Chapter 1 Creative Costumes 11 Chapter 2 1840s: Rustic Simplicity and Fantastic Growth 15 Chapter 3 1850s: American Styles Develop as Trouble Brews 27 Chapter 4 State and Local Militias: A Diversity of Styles 43 Chapter 5 The Civil War and Mass Production 51 Chapter 6 1860s: The War Ends and the Western Era Begins 61 Chapter 7 1870s: The Economic Revolution and the Styles It Influenced 81 Chapter 8 1880s: Troubled and Extravagant Times and the New Folklore 99 Chapter 9 1890s: New Sports, New Jobs, and New Problems 119 Chapter 10 1900s: A Modern Sophistication, the Arts, and Ecology 139 Chapter 11 1910s: World War I and the Modern Woman 155 Chapter 12 Design and Construction 173 Index 201
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