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INDEX Volume 33 @ Issue 65 @ 1991 Compiled by Patricia A. Fletcher This issue comprises all of Volume 33 Mountains are listed by their official names and ranges; quotation marks indicate unofficial names. Ranges and geographic locations are also indexed. Unnamed peaks (e.g., P 2037) are listed following the range or country in which they are located. All expedition members cited in major articles are included, whereas only the leaders and persons supplying information in the Climbs and Expeditions section are listed. Titles of books reviewed in this issue are grouped as a single entry under Book Reviews. Abbreviations used: Article: art.; Bibliography: bibl.; Obituary: obit. Alaska Range: Peak 6500, 160; Peak 7500, 160; Peak 7500+, 158; Peak 7979, 160; Peak 11300, Abert, Guy, 241 ascents of, 153 Abi Gamin (Garhwal Himalaya), 246, 247 Albiero, Giacomo, 250 Abraham (Zion National Park, Utah), 172 Allardyce Range (South Georgia), 208 Access, art., 145-47; 144 Alpamayo Pequenio. See Fabulosa. Access Fund. See Access. Alpine Club of Canada, 355-56 Accidents: Aconcagua, 196; Broad Peak, 260; Altar (Ecuador), 190-91 Cheo, 238; Crown, 301; Dhaulagiri, 241, Alvaro, Sebastian, 297 242-44; Elbrus, 304; Electroglide Rock, 175; Alvear (Tierra del Fuego), 94 Everest, 228, 287; Gorichen, 213; Hidden Peak, Ama Dablam (Nepal Himalaya), 217-20 261; Kang Karpo, 285; Lenin, 303-4; Manaslu, American Alpine Club, The: New York Section, 236-38; Meru North, 250; Nanga Parbat, 278, 354-55; Oregon Section, 355 281-82; Pamirs, 303-4; Pobedy, 302; Pumori, André, Michael, 203-4 230; Shishapangma, 297-98; Shivling, 250; Angel Peak (Sierra Nevada, California), 169 Sudarshan Parbat, 252 Anker, Conrad D., 154, 172 Aconcagua (Argentina), 194-96; base camp, 196; Annapurna (Nepal Himalaya), 239-40 cleanup of, 196; statistics, 196 Annapurna II (Nepal Himalaya), 238 Afriansyah, Taufiz, 215 Annapurna III (Nepal Himalaya), 239 Africa, 208-9 Annapurna IV (Nepal Himalaya), 238-39 Agostini, Stefano, 230 Annapurna Dakshin (Nepal Himalaya), 240 Ahnikin (Tierra del Fuego), 94 “Ano Nuevo” (Tizrra del Fuego), 94 Aitwal, Chandra Prabha, 245 Antarctica, 204-8 Ak-Su (Turkestan Range, USSR), 305-7 Antolik, Roger, 233 Alaska, arts., 104-10, 111-17; 149-65 Anwar (Pakistani), 19-32 Alaska Range, art., 104-10; 149-60 Aprin, Hooman, 226-27 364 INDEX Volume 33 @ Issue 65 @ 1991 Compiled by Patricia A. Fletcher This issue comprises all of Volume 33 Mountains are listed by their official names and ranges; quotation marks indicate unofficial names. Ranges and geographic locations are also indexed. Unnamed peaks (e.g., P 2037) are listed following the range or country in which they are located. All expedition members cited in major articles are included, whereas only the leaders and persons supplying information in the Climbs and Expeditions section are listed. Titles of books reviewed in this issue are grouped as a single entry under Book Reviews. Abbreviations used: Article: art.; Bibliography: bibl.; Obituary: obit. Alaska Range: Peak 6500, 160; Peak 7500, 160; Peak 7500+, 158; Peak 7979, 160; Peak 11300, Abert, Guy, 241 ascents of, 153 Abi Gamin (Garhwal Himalaya), 246, 247 Albiero, Giacomo, 250 Abraham (Zion National Park, Utah), 172 Allardyce Range (South Georgia), 208 Access, art., 145-47; 144 Alpamayo Pequenio. See Fabulosa. Access Fund. See Access. Alpine Club of Canada, 355-56 Accidents: Aconcagua, 196; Broad Peak, 260; Altar (Ecuador), 190-91 Cheo, 238; Crown, 301; Dhaulagiri, 241, Alvaro, Sebastian, 297 242-44; Elbrus, 304; Electroglide Rock, 175; Alvear (Tierra del Fuego), 94 Everest, 228, 287; Gorichen, 213; Hidden Peak, Ama Dablam (Nepal Himalaya), 217-20 261; Kang Karpo, 285; Lenin, 303-4; Manaslu, American Alpine Club, The: New York Section, 236-38; Meru North, 250; Nanga Parbat, 278, 354-55; Oregon Section, 355 281-82; Pamirs, 303-4; Pobedy, 302; Pumori, André, Michael, 203-4 230; Shishapangma, 297-98; Shivling, 250; Angel Peak (Sierra Nevada, California), 169 Sudarshan Parbat, 252 Anker, Conrad D., 154, 172 Aconcagua (Argentina), 194-96; base camp, 196; Annapurna (Nepal Himalaya), 239-40 cleanup of, 196; statistics, 196 Annapurna II (Nepal Himalaya), 238 Afriansyah, Taufiz, 215 Annapurna III (Nepal Himalaya), 239 Africa, 208-9 Annapurna IV (Nepal Himalaya), 238-39 Agostini, Stefano, 230 Annapurna Dakshin (Nepal Himalaya), 240 Ahnikin (Tierra del Fuego), 94 “Ano Nuevo” (Tizrra del Fuego), 94 Aitwal, Chandra Prabha, 245 Antarctica, 204-8 Ak-Su (Turkestan Range, USSR), 305-7 Antolik, Roger, 233 Alaska, arts., 104-10, 111-17; 149-65 Anwar (Pakistani), 19-32 Alaska Range, art., 104-10; 149-60 Aprin, Hooman, 226-27 364 INDEX Arch, Hannes, 158-60 Bekendam, Roland, 274-75 Arctic, 186-88 Bell, Stephen, 256, 290 Argentina, 193-197 Bendell, Beverley, 355-56 Argentina: Peak 4400, 194; Peak 4600, 194 Beorchia, Antonio, 193-94 Arias, Guillem, 258 Berbeka, Maciej, 282 Arizona Mountaineering Club, 356-57 Berg, Wally, 52-57 Arko, Vojslav, 197 Bergamaschi, Arturo, 301 Arps, Elwyn Albert, obit., 343 Berlandi, Pierre, 284 “Arroyo Blanco” (Atuel Valley, Argentina), 196 Berljak, Darko, 240 Arsentiev, Sergei, 47-51 Bermejo, Javier, 240 Artesonraju (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 191 Bernard, Jean-Pierre, 296 Arunachal Pradesh (India), 213 Bernstein, Jeremy, 327-28 Aryati (Miss), 239 Bersaekerspire (Staunings Alps, Greenland), 189 Asia, 213-302 Berti, Marco, 296 Assiniboine, Mount (Rocky Mountains, Bertulis, Alex, 307-9 Canada), 182 Betancourt, José, 190, 191 Athans, Peter, 52-57 Beyer, James, 170, 172-73, 175 Atkinson, Chris, 158 Bhagirathi II (Garhwal Himalaya), 249 Atuel Valley (Argentina), 196-97 Bhagirathi III (Garhwal Himalaya), art., 42-46 Aubert, Francoise, 217 Bhodane, Prajapati, 254 Augusta, Mount (Saint Elias Mountains, Alaska), Bhrigupanth (Garhwal Himalaya), 252 art., 111-17 Biacherahi Dome (Karakoram Range, Aus (Cordillera Darwin, Tierra del Fuego), 91 Pakistan), 274 Auyuittug National Park (Baffin Island), 187-88 Biafo Glacier Region (Karakoram Range, Azul. See Cordillera de Corte. Pakistan), art., 33-40 Black Canyon of the Gunnison (Elk Range, Colorado), 175 B Black Wall (Staunings Alps, Greenland), 189 Baffin Island (Canada), 187-88 Blain, Andrew, 254 Bagley Icefield (Chugach Mountains, Alaska), 162 Blatter, Chris, 257 Bahillo, Juan Carlos, 251 Blaurock, Carl, 343 Baintha Brakk (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), Blench, James, 251 274-75 Bobisghir (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 274 Baja California (Mexico), 189-90 Bogmolov, Gennadi, 69-73 Bajwa, Harjeet S., 247 Bogmolov, Sergei, 69-73 Bandarpunch II (Garhwal Himalaya), 254-55 Bojohaghur Duanasir II (Karakoram Range, Baroni, Guido, 200 Pakistan), 276 Bartlett, Philip, 188-89 Bolesch, Rainier, 217-19 Baruntse (Nepal Himalaya), 217 Bolivia, 192-93 Basu, Alok, 252 Bonington, Christian, art., 66-68 Batard, Marc, 227-28; 298 Bonneville, Mount (Wind River Range, Wyoming), 173 Bates, Robert H., 327 Bonvicini, Guido, 199 Battle, Mount (Baffin Island), 187 Bauwens, Greet, 261 BOOK REVIEWS Bazin, Serge, 235 The Canadian Alps: The History of Bebie, Mark, 111-17 Mountaineering in Canada, Volume |, Robert Beckey, Fred, 183 W. Sandford, 332-33 Beghin, Annie, 228 Cincuenta afios en la montana, Gaston San Beghin, Pierre, 221 Roman, 339-40 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1991 Climate Related Landscapes in World Wilderness and Rural Life Support Guidelines, Mountains, Criteria and Map, Will F. Robert J. Koester, editor, 337-38 Thompson, 340 Women Climbing: 200 Years of Achievement, The Climbing Cartoons of Sheridan Anderson, Bill Birkett and Bill Peascod, 321-22 Joe Kelsey, 329 Bose, Bani, 249 Dangerous Steps: Vernon Tejas and the Solo Bove (Tierra del Fuego), 92-94 Winter Ascent of Mount McKinley, Lewis Braham, Trevor, art., 62-65 Freedman, 313-15 Brakus, Bogdan, 294 La direccién del sector deporte, Gaston San Brand, Eric M., 168,170-72 Roman, 339-40 Bravo, Claudio, 197 Eiger Dreams: Ventures Among Men and Breashears, David, 270-72 Mountains, Jon Krakauer, 322-24 Brice, Russell, 295 Exploring Idaho’s Mountains: A Guide for Bridwell, James, art., 118-23 Climbers, Scramblers and Hikers, Tom Lopez, Brimmer, Steven, 238 331-32 British Columbia, 182-86 Exploring the Hidden Himalaya, Soli Mehta and Broad Peak (Karakoram Range, China), 301 Harish Kapadia, 315-17 Broad Peak (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 260, Far From Help, Peter Steele, 337-38 263-64, 265 Footloose in the Himalaya, Mike Harding, Broad Peak North (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 326-27 264-65 Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue, Andy Brooker, Mount (South Georgia), 208 Selters, 338-39 Brooks, Mount (Alaska Range), ascents of, 153 The Gunks Guide, 2nd edition, Todd Swain, Brown, Barry, 187 329-30 Browning, Michael F., 52-57 High Asia: An Illustrated History of the 7,000 Bu, Gyal, 47-51 Metre Peaks, Jill Neate, 327 Buckingham, William James, obit., 347-50 Historia del andinismo en Chile, Gast6n San Buckland (Tierra del Fuego), 94 Roman, 339-40 Bugaboo Group (Purcell Range, British Columbia), The Karakoram: Mountains of Pakistan, Shiro 183-85 Shirahata, 312-13 Buhler, Carlos P., 242-44 Mont Blanc Massif, Volume I: Selected Climbs, Bularung Sar (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 276 Lindsay Griffin, 335 Burgess, Alan, 238, 258 Mount Kenya, John Reader, 335-37 Burleson, Todd, 286 The Mountains of Europe, Kev Reynolds, editor, Burns, Cameron M., 125-30, 166-68, 169 333-34 Buscaini, Silvia Metzeltin, 199 Buzzi, Carlo, 252 My Tibet, Galen Rowell, 311-12 One Step in the Clouds: An Omnibus of Mountaineering Novels and Short Stories, Cc Audrey Salkeld and Rosie Smith, compilers, 318-21 California, arts., 118-23, 125-30; 166-72 Sacred Mountains of the World, Edwin Canada, 176-86 Bernbaum, 317-18 Carey, Francis L., obit., 343-44 Sam (Alone), Tomo Cesen, 315 Carl, Claudia, 262 Sherpas, James F. Fisher, 327-28 Carse, Mount (Salvesen Range, South Traveler’s Medical Resource: A Guide to Health Georgia), 208 & Safety Worldwide, William W. Forgey, Carstensz Mountains (Indonesia), 212 337-38 Carstensz Pyramid (Carstensz Mountains, Why I Climb: Personal Insights of Top Climbers, Indonesia), 212 Steve Gardiner, 324-25 Carter, Frances C., 341-42 366 INDEX Carter, H. Adams, 312-13, 315 Coast Mountains (Alaska): Peak 4580, 165; Peak Cascade Mountains (Oregon), 166 4900+ , 164; Peak 5310, 165; Peak 5340, 165; Cascade Mountains (Washington), 165-66 Peak 5709, 164 Casi (Tierra del Fuego), 94 Coffield, Dana, 52-57 Castelnuovo, Giuseppe, 232 Colorado, 174-75 Catto, John, 33-40 Columbia Mountains (Canada), 183-86 Caucasus (USSR), 304 “Comb Mountain.” See Kronprins Frederiks Cazadero (Argentina), 197 Bjerge, Peak c. 2400. CB 13 (Himachal Pradesh), 256 Condor, (Cordillera Darwin, Tierra del Fuego), Cederholm, John, 298 91,95 Cesen, Tomo, art., 1-6 Condoriri, (Cordillera Real, Bolivia), 192 Chacraraju Este (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 191 Conservation: Everest, art., 58-60; Himalaya, Chamacani (Cordillera Quimsa Cruz, Bolivia), 193 62-65; K2, 265-66; Nanga Parbat, 66-68 Chamberlin, Mount (Franklin Mountains, Cordillera Blanca (Peru), 191 Alaska), 164 Cordillera Darwin (Tierra del Fuego), art., 86-91; Chamlang (Nepal Himalaya), 217 92-95; 203-4 Chamoux, Benoit, 290 Cordillera Darwin: Peak 2438, 204; Peak 2469, 204 Chanel, Pierre, 178-80 Cordillera de Corte (Cordillera de la Viuda, Peru), 191 Changtse (Tibet), 288-90 Cordillera de la Viuda (Peru), 191 Chau Chau Kang Nilda (Himachal Pradesh), 258 Cordillera Huayhuash (Peru), 191 Cheme, Da, 47-51 Cordillera Quimsa Cruz (Bolivia), 193 Cheo (Nepal Himalaya), 238 Cordillera Real (Bolivia), 192-93 Child, Gregory, 19-32, 292-94 Cord6n de la Jaula: Peak 5200, 194; Peak 5300, Chile, art., 74-84 194; Peak 5400, 194; Peak 5500, 194 China, 285, 301-2 Cordon Navarro (Tierra del Fuego), 94 China. See also Tibet. Cosgrove, Scott, 74-84 Chisolm, Colin G., obit., 346-47 Cosley, Kathy, 7-13 Cho Oyu (Nepal Himalaya), 233-34 Cotopaxi (Ecuador), 191 Cho Oyu (Tibet), art., 14-18; 290-92, 297 Cotorra (Tierra del Fuego), 92 Chogolisa (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 263 Cotter, Guy, 273 Choi, Chang-Don, 278 Cottontail Tower (Fisher Towers, Utah), 172-73 Chugach Mountains (Alaska), 162 Covington, Michael M., 155, 351-52 Chugach Mountains: Peak 5036, 162; Peak 5716, Cox, Simon, 205-6 162; Peak 6781, 162; Peak 7023, 162; Peak Creighton, Geoffrey, 96-103 7629, 162; Peak 7709, 162; Peak 7819, 162; Cremonese, Franco, 193-94 Peak 8567, 162 Cresta Blanca. See Darwin III. Chumangkang (Sikkim Himalaya), 213 Crotzer, Ron, 52-57 Chun, Doo-Sung, 240 Crown (Karakoram Range, China), 301 Chung, Min-Kyu, 239 Cuchillo (Tierra del Fuego), 94 Churen Central (Nepal Himalaya), 244 Culberson, John, 7-13 Culberson, Matt, 190-91, 192 Churen West (Nepal Himalaya), 244 Czerwinska, Anna, 214-15 Civera, Paolo, 284 Clément, Bernard, 239 D Climbing exchanges: American-Lithuanian, 307-9 Climbing regulations: art., 145-47 Dalquist, Doug, 265 Closs, Lyle, 19-32 Dan Beard, Mount (Alaska Range), 160; ascents Clouthier, Ross, 154-55 of, 153 Coast Mountains (Alaska), 164-65 “Dark One.” See Chamacani. 367 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1991 Dartmouth Mountaineering Club, 357 E Darwin (Cordillera Darwin, Tierra del Fuego), 92, Early Winter Spire, South (Cascade Mountains, 94, 95, 203-4 Washington), 166 Darwin II (Cordillera Darwin, Tierra del Eastpost Spire (Purcell Range, British Fuego), 92 Columbia), 185 Darwin III (Cordillera Darwin, Tierra del Ebert, James (Jim), 357-58 Fuego), 92, 204 Echevarria, Evelio, 193, 194, 196-97, 339-40 Das, Bibhas, 253 Echo Tower (Fisher Towers, Utah), 172-73 Datta, Snigdha, 254 Ecuador, 190-91 Dawson, Mount (Selkirk Mountains, British Eguskitza, Xavier, 261, 263-64, 278, 280, 292, Columbia), 185-86 294-95, 296-98 De Dona, Bruno, 201 Eiriksson, Charles E., Jr., 331-32 De Franceschi, Lucio, 284 Eitel, Hans, 217 De Francesco, Fabrizio, 298 El! Capitan (Yosemite, California), 170-71 de Smedt, Jo, 261 Elbrus (Caucasus, USSR), 304 De Stefani, Fausto, 236 Electraglide Rock (Colorado), 175 “Dead Deer Pinnacle” (Sierra Nevada, California), Elk Range (Colorado), 175 168 Ellesmere Island (Canada), 186 Decamp, Erik, 227-28 Endo, Haruyuki, 261 Deception, Mount (Alaska Range), ascents of, 153 Engle, Dean, 357 “Deck of Cards” (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), Erard, Philip, 354-55 art., 33-40 Ershler, Philip, 19-32 Delaney, Ray, 217 “Esquinero” (Atuel Valley, Argentina), 196 Denali (Alaska Range), 154-57; altitude of, 150; Estéve, Alain, 259-60 ascents of, 152 Estienne, Yves, 216 Denali National Park and Preserve (Alaska Range), Ethics, art., 140-44 149-54; accidents in, 150-51; ascents in, 152-53; Etive Slabs (South Platte, Colorado), 174 foreign climbers in, 150; rescues in, 150-51, Everest (Nepal Himalaya), art., 52-57; 223-30; statistics, 159-60; survey, 154 cleanup of, art., 58-60; map of, 230; paraglider DenHartog, Stephen, 352-53 descent from, 227 Dhampus. See Dhapa. Everest (Tibet), art., 47-51; 286-88 Dhapa (Nepal Himalaya), 241 Ewert, Alan, 154 Dharamsura (Himachal Pradesh), 256 Dhaulagiri (Nepal Himalaya), 241-44 F Diamir Base Camp. See Nanga Parbat. Dibona, Mario, 231 Fabulosa (Cordillera Real, Bolivia), 192 Dientes de Tiburon (Tierra del Fuego), 94 Fairweather, Mount (Fairweather Range, Dofe, Jayant S., 253 Alaska), 162 Dome (South Platte, Colorado), 174-75 Fairweather Range (Alaska), 162 Don Bosco (Patagonia), 199 Faivre, Pierre, 201 Dorje Lhakpa (Nepal Himalaya), 234 “Fang” (Nepal Himalaya), 235 Dower, Matthew, 241 Fendt, Alfred, 282 Druzhby (Tien Shan, USSR), 307 Fernando Azcona, Juan, 237 Dudh Kundari. See Nepal, Peak 6042. Ferriére, Laurence de la, 227 Duff, Malcolm, 239-40 Filo Helado (Tierra del Fuego), 94 Dujmovits, Ralf, 221-23, 241 Fischer, Scott, 52-57 Dunnottar (Staunings Alps, Greenland), 189 Fisher Towers (Utah), 172-73 Dutrievoz, Pierre, 229 Fitz Roy (Patagonia), 198 368 INDEX Foraker, Mount (Alaska Range), ari., 104-10; 157; Gasherbrum II (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), ascents of, 152 261-63 Forbidden Peak (Cascade Mountains, Gemignani, Renzo, 249 Washington), 165 Gemini (Tierra del Fuego), 94, 95 Forrest, William, 353 Gendarme Argentino (Argentina), 197 Fortaleza (Patagonia), 201 General Ponce (Tierra del Fuego), 92 Fortress Mountain (Rocky Mountains, Ghosh, Swapan Kumar, 256 Canada), 182 Gill, Scott, 157 Fourth, Pik (Pamirs, USSR), 305 Girardo, Bruno, 250 Fowler, Michael A., 305-7 Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve (Alaska), Frachon, Jean-Pierre, 232, 258 ascents in, 162 Francés (Tierra del Fuego), 92-94 Glacier Dome. See Tarke Kang. Francis, Henry S., Jr., obit., 352-53 Glaciers: Cordillera Real, 193 Francis, Mount (Alaska Range), ascents of, 153 Glamis (Staunings Alps, Greenland), 189 Franklin Mountains (Alaska), 164 Golnar, Anton, 280 Franklin Mountains: Peak 7600, 164; Peak 8000, Gémez, Juan Carlos, 263 164; Peak 8540, 164 Fredborg, Andreas, 279-80 Gongga Shan (China), 285 Freeman-Attwood, Julian, 206-8 Gonzalez, Manuel, 244 Freese, Lloyd, 176 Gonzalez Lopez, José Maria, 279 Freya, Mount (Baffin Island), 188 Goodman, Donald J., 236-37 Fries, Erik F.B., obit., 342 Goodmana (Tien Shan, USSR), 309 Front Range (Colorado), 175 Gorbenko, Mstislav, 47-51 Fryatt Group (Rocky Mountains, Canada), 182 Gori Chen (Pachakshiri Range, India), 213 Fuchs, Arved, 204-5 Goudrier, Dominique Mathieu, 245 Fuehrer, Roger, 233 Graf, Fredi, 296 Fukada, Ryoichi, 292 Grajales, Fernando, 196 Fukushima, Isao, 234 Gran Trono Blanco (Baja California, Mexico), Furuya, H., 309 189-90 Fuster, Beda, 226 Grauer, Jack, 359-60 Great Trango Tower. See Trango Towers. Greenland, 188-89 G Grenier, Philippe, 231 Gall, Steve, 47-51 Grissom, Colin, 7-13 Gallagher, Peter, 33-40, 200 Grissom, Kitty Calhoun, art., 7-13 Gamubar Zom (Hindu Raj, Pakistan), 284 Grochowski, Marek, 261 Ganchimpo. See Gangchenpo. Guan Nelda. See Chau Chau Kang Nilda. Gangapurna (Nepal Himalaya), 239 Guha, Kamal K., 247, 249, 253, 254-55, 258-59 Gangchenpo (Nepal Himalaya), 234 Guillaumet (Patagonia), 198 Gangotri (Garhwal Himalaya), 254 Gurla Mandhata (Tibet), 299 Gangotri III (Garhwal Himalaya), 254 Gurung, Chetra Bahadur, 223 Gangotri Region (Garhwal Himalaya), Gyachungkang (Nepal Himalaya), 233 nomenclature in, 255 Gangstang (Himachal Pradesh), 257 Ganja La Chuli (Nepal Himalaya), 234-35 H Garcia, Andrés, 196 Garhwal (India), art., 42-46; 245-56 Haas, Rolf, 234 Garhwal: Peak 5794, 255 Haeussler, Peter, 164-65 Gasherbrum. See Hidden Peak. Haga, Takao, 291 369 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1991 Half Dome (Yosemite, California), art., Hunter, Mount (Alaska Range), 157; ascents 118-23; 171 of, 152 Hall, Larry G., 304 Huntington, Mount (Alaska Range), 157-58; Hall, Robert, 223-25 ascents of, 152 Halliburton, Guy, 280 Hupfauer, Siegfried (Sigi), art., 66-68 Hanipispur South (Karakoram Range, Huss, Charles, 303-4 Pakistan), 274 Hussein, Fida, 19-32 Hara, Makoto, 215 Huyberechts, Karl, 223 Harden, David, 168-69 Harper, Nicholas, 219 Harter, Giinther, 291 Hasegawa, Tsuneo, 276 Idaho Alpine Club, 358-59 Hawley, Elizabeth, 215-16, 217-20, 223, 227, 230, Ignacio Lorente, Juan, 292 231-32, 233-34, 235, 237, 238-41, 244-45, 286, Illumination Rock (Cascade Mountains, 287, 291-92 Oregon), 166 Hayakawa, Akio, 248 Ilusi6n (Cordillera Real, Bolivia), 192 Henderson, Kenneth A., 345-46 Ilyinski, Ervand, 47-51 Hersman, William G. (Willy), 361 Imjatse (Nepal Himalaya), 220 Hesse, Mark B., 287-88 India, art., 42-46; 213-15, 245-59 Hidden Peak (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 259-61 Indonesia, 212 Higgins, Thomas J., art., 145-47 Ingraham, Robin, Jr., art., 140-44 Hillebrandt, David, art., 86-91 Inoue, Yoshikazu, 251 Himachal Pradesh (India), 256-58 Interior Ranges. See Columbia Mountains. Himachal Pradesh: Peak 5760, 257; Peak 5920, 257 “Inugsuin Point Buttress” (Baffin Island), 187 Himalchuli West (Nepal Himalaya), 238 lowa Mountaineers, 357-58 Hindu Kush (Pakistan), 282-84 Irian Jaya. See Indonesia. Hindu Raj (Pakistan), 284 Ishii, Kiyoshi, 232 Hinkes, Alan, 290-91 Island Peak. See Imjatse. Hirai, Kazumasa, 285 Istorghuni East (Hindu Kush, Pakistan), 282 Hitachi, Tamio, 261 Istoronal North (Hindu Kush, Pakistan), 284 Hood, Mount (Cascade Mountains, Oregon), 166 Italia (Tierra del Fuego), 92 Hooker, Mount (Wind River Range, Wyoming), Itten, Markus, 299 art., 131-39; 173 Ivanova, Yekaterina, 47-51 Hosaka, Akinori, 248 Houston, Charles S., art., 66-68; 337-38 Houston, Mark, 7-13 Howser Tower, South (Purcell Range, British Columbia), 183-85 Ja, Wang, 47-51 Huang Guan Shan. See Crown. Jammu (India), 258 Huayna Potosi (Cordillera Real, Bolivia), 192 Jamnik, Tomaz, 228-29 Hubbard, Mount (Saint Elias Mountains, Yukon “Jano” (Tierra del Fuego), 94 Territory), 180 Jegli¢, Janez, 42-46 Hubert, Alain, 292 Jervis, Steven, 318-21 Huenecke, Kim A., 356-57 Johnson, Joseph E., obit., 344 Huggins, Mount (Royal Society Range, Antarctica), Johnson, Mount (Alaska Range), 158 205-6 Jones, Charles, 52-57 Hull, Brian, 163-64 Josendal, Victor, obit., 347 Humphreys, Mount (Sierra Nevada, Joswig, Reinmar, 281 California), 168 Jukes, Thomas H., 343-44 370 INDEX K Kimtah Peak (Cascade Mountains, Washington), 166 K2 (Karakoram Range, China), art., 19-32; 301 Kirkpatrick, Cito, 118-23 K2 (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 265-66; cleanup Kliem, Heinz, 258 of, 265-66 Kling, Mount (Salvesen Range, South K7 (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 270 Georgia), 208 Kagbhusund (Garhwal Himalaya), 247 Knappe, Jiirgen, 233 Kagmara. See Kangchunne. Knightlinger, Mark, 157 Kahiltna Dome (Alaska Range), ascents of, 152 Kobler, Karl, 244 Kahiltna Peak, East (Alaska Range), ascents Koh-e-Shakhaur (Hindu Kush, Pakistan), 284 of, 153 Kohler, Stefan, 217 Kahn, Michael, 160 Kok, Peter, 268-70 Kamet (Garhwal Himalaya), 246-47 Kommunizma (Pamirs, USSR), 304, 305 Kanagoe, Akio, 285 Kondo, K., 309 Kande Hiunchuli (Nepal Himalaya), 244 Korzhenevskoi (Pamirs, USSR), 304 Kang, Han-Chul, 241 Koshuta, Michael, obit., 351-52 Kang Karpo (Yunnan, China), 285 Kost, Danny W., 162-63 Kangchenjunga (Sikkim Himalaya), 214-15 Kroll, Franz, 245 Kangchenjunga Central (Sikkim Himalaya), 215 Kronprins Frederiks Bjerge (Greenland), 188-89 Kangchung (Nepal Himalaya), 233 Kronprins Frederiks Bjerge: Peak 2100, 189; Peak Kangchunne (Nepal Himalaya), 245 c. 2130, 189; Peak 2200, 189; Peak 2300, 189; Kanjut Sar II (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 268-70 Peak c. 2300, 189; Peak 2400, 189; Peak c. Kapadia, Harish, 213-14, 246, 247, 252, 253, 254, 2400, 189; Peak 2600, 189; Peak c. 2600, 189 255-57 Kruszyna, Robert, 332-33 Karakoram Range (China), 301 Kuenstler, Peter, 19-32 Karakoram Range (India), 258-59 Kulkarni, D. T., 252 Karakoram Range (India): Peak 6448, 259 Kulu (India), 256 Karakoram Range (Pakistan), art., 33-40; 259-76; Kun (Kashmir), 258 environmental concerns in, art., 62-65 Kunlun Mountains (China), 301-2 Karla, Peter, 262 Kuroda, Haruhisa, 259 Karo, Silvo, art., 42-46 Kurtyka, Wojciech, art., 14-18 Kashmir (India), 258 Kuwahara, Nobuo, 228 Kato, Satoshi, 230 Kwant, Rene, 246 Katrivanos, loannis, 244 Kauffman, Andrew John, II, 333-34, 335 Keleman, Peter B., 257 Kendall, Max, 33-40 Lahul (India), 256-57 Kenny, Adrian, 187 Lampak II (Garhwal Himalaya), 246 Kensington (Staunings Alps, Greenland), 189 Lampard, Dai, 270 Kenya, 208-9 Langley, Mount (Sierra Nevada, California), 130 Kenya, Mount (Kenya), 208-9 Langtang Lirung (Nepal Himalaya), 235 Khan, Sarwar, 19-32 Langtang Ri (Nepal Himalaya), 235 Khan Tengri (Tien Shan, USSR), 307-10 Lapkass, Andrew, 52-57, 193, 232 Khrishchaty, Valery, art., 69-73; 307 Laplace, C., 258 Khurana, Tejvir Singh, 335-37 Laschi. See Chumangkang. Kieser, Thor, 197, 246, 275 Laske, Wolfgang, 180 Kim, Gyu-Young, 244 Lasso, Roland, 219 Kim, In-Sik, 280 Latok (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 274 Kim, Kwan-Jun, 216 Latok III (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 274 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1991] Lazo, Walter, 191 Marendaz, Patrick, 244 Ledoux, Paul Maurice, Jr., obit., 350-51 Marliave, Christian de, 208 Lempriere, Mount (Columbia Mountains, Mathias, Julian, 86-91 Canada), 183 Matous, Ronald A., 329 Lenin (Pamirs, USSR), 303-4 Matous, Steven, 157-58 Lenti, Fabio, 292 Matri (Garhwal Himalaya), 254 Lentrodt, Michael, 275 Matsukuma, Yukio, 256 Lenz, Peter S., 173 Mazamas, The, 359-60 Leon (Sierra de la Culata, Venezuela), 190 Mazeaud, Pierre, 263 Lhotse (Nepal Himalaya), arts., 1-6, 52-57; 220-21 Mazur, Dan, 180-82 Lhotse Shar (Nepal Himalaya), 220 McArthur, Lewis L., 346-47 Lichtenberg Mountain (Cascade Mountains, McConnell, Bob, art., 58-60 Washington), 166 McDade, Theodore, 186 Lindsay, Roy, 248 McDannold, Dori, 160 Link, Robert, 47-51 McDermott, Carol, 219-20 Little Switzerland (Alaska Range), 160; ascents McGown, Robert, 166, 355 in, 153 McKinley, Mount. See Denali. Lobuje East (Nepal Himalaya), 232 Meili. See Kang Karpo. Logan, Mount (Saint Elias Mountains, Yukon Memphis Mountaineers, Inc., 360-61 Territory), art., 96-103; 162; ascents of, 176 Menlungtse (Tibet), 292-94 Logan Mountains (Northwest Territories), 186 Mermoz (Patagonia), 199 Lombard, Pierre, 297 Meru North (Garhwal Himalaya), 250 Longs Peak (Front Range, Colorado), 175 Messner, Reinhold, 204-5 Lopez, Jerénimo, 206 Mexico, 189-90 Lépez Gros, José, 258 Middendorf, John, 171, 172 Loretan, Erhard, 14-18 Lotus Flower Tower (Logan Mountains, Northwest Miguel (Tierra del Fuego), 92 Territories), 186 Mikhailov, Gennadi, 69-73 Loughman, Barbra, 33-40 Miller, Mark, 304 Luisa (Tierra del Fuego), 92 Miller, Stuart, 249 Lukpilla Brakk (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), Milne, Keith, 252 art., 33-40 Mina de Hierro (Sierra de la Culata, Lumpy Ridge (Rocky Mountain National Park, Venezuela), 190 Colorado), 175 Minamiura, Takeyasu, 272 Luna. See Darwin II. Miyake, Shizuo, 254 Luniakov, Grigori, 47-51 Mochnikov, Anatoly, 310 Lwow, Aleksander, 232 Moderé, Philippe, 197 Molenaar, Dee, 340 Monashee Range (Columbia Mountains, M Canada), 183 Macartney-Snape, Timothy, 225-26 Monier, Eric, 238 Macia, Mercé, 220 Monja Chica (Ecuador), 191 Makalu (Nepal Himalaya), art., 7-13; 215-16 Monzat, Patrick, 241 Mamani (Cordillera Quimsa Cruz, Bolivia), 193 Moose’s Tooth (Alaska Range), ascents of, 153 Mamostong (Karakoram Range, India), 259 Moosh Mustagh (Kunlun Mountains, China), 301-2 Manaslu (Nepal Himalaya), 236-38 Mortimer, Greg, 19-32 Manning, Brent, 52-57 Moshnikov, Anatoly, 47-51 March, Bill, obit., 353 Mossman, Rick, 162 Marchesani, Evanio, 285 Mothersele, John, 86-91 372

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