ALTITUDE ADJUSTMENT ALTITUDE ADJUSTMENT A Quest for Love, Home, and Meaning in the Tetons MARY BETH BAPTISTE Guilford, Connecticut Helena, Montana An imprint of Globe Pequot Press Copyright © 2014 by Mary Elizabeth Baptiste ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying and recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, except as may be expressly permitted in writing from the publisher. Requests for permission should be addressed to Globe Pequot Press, Attn: Rights and Permissions Department, PO Box 480, Guilford, CT 06437. TwoDot is an imprint of Globe Pequot Press and a registered trademark of Morris Book Publishing, LLC. Excerpts on pages 1, 179, and 229 from “Last night, as I was sleeping” by Antonio Machado, from Times Alone, tr. (Wesleyan University Press, 1983). © Antonio Machado. © 1983 Translation by Robert Bly. Reprinted by permission of Wesleyan University Press. Excerpt on pages 104–05 from Teewinot: A Year in the Teton Range © 2000 by Jack Turner. Reprinted by permission of Thomas Dunne Books. All rights reserved. Excerpt on page 132 from Pilgrim at Tinker Creek by Annie Dillard. © 1974. Reprinted by permission of HarperCollins Publishers. Lyrics to “Sweet Wyoming Home” on page 160 reprinted by permission of Bill Staines, © 1976 by Mineral River Music, BMI. Project Editor: Lauren Brancato Layout: Chris Mongillo Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Baptiste, Mary Elizabeth, 1953-author. Altitude adjustment : reflections on leaving home and finding my inner / Mary Elizabeth Baptiste. pages cm Summary: “A recent divorce from a marriage of fifteen years, Mary Elizabeth Baptiste makes the decision to fulfill a life goal to work at Grand Teton National Park. Finally settled in Moose, Wyoming, she begins life anew and attempts to reconcile her past with the wide future ahead of her”—Provided by publisher. ISBN 978-1-4930-0921-3 (epub) 1. Baptiste, Mary Elizabeth, 1953—- Homes and haunts—Wyoming—Teton County. 2. Naturalists—Wyoming— Teton County—Anecdotes. 3. Natural history—Wyoming—Grand Teton National Park. 4. Grand Teton National Park (Wyo.) I. Title. QH31.B196A3 2013 508.09787’55—dc23 [B] 2013035416 For my best friend and partner, Richard and In memory of Dad Joseph F. Baptiste 1930–2013 and Nan Mary Silvia Medeiros 1904-1999 Amor Para Sempre TABLE OF CONTENTS Copyright Prologue: Woodswoman PART 1: WATER OF A NEW LIFE CHAPTER 1: First Glimpse CHAPTER 2: There/Here CHAPTER 3: Baggage CHAPTER 4: The Price CHAPTER 5: Places CHAPTER 6: Learning Curve CHAPTER 7: Digging In CHAPTER 8: Hopping on Board CHAPTER 9: Evolution CHAPTER 10: Trying Out CHAPTER 11: Animal Nature CHAPTER 12: Teton Two-Step CHAPTER 13: Bliss CHAPTER 14: Female Trouble CHAPTER 15: Heritage CHAPTER 16: Stakeout CHAPTER 17: Ursine Lessons CHAPTER 18: Harlequin Romance CHAPTER 19: Taproot CHAPTER 20: Ghosts CHAPTER 21: Short Timing CHAPTER 22: Transition CHAPTER 23: Kissing Toads CHAPTER 24: Turning Point CHAPTER 25: Altitude Adjustment CHAPTER 26: Search CHAPTER 27: Forever Love CHAPTER 28: Any Port CHAPTER 29: Uncertainty Principles PART 2: WHITE COMBS AND SWEET HONEY CHAPTER 30: Homing CHAPTER 31: Hermit Crab CHAPTER 32: Stewardship CHAPTER 33: Cabin Fever CHAPTER 34: Grizzly Distinction CHAPTER 35: Gift CHAPTER 36: Mudpuppy Love CHAPTER 37: Dog Days CHAPTER 38: Niche CHAPTER 39: Opening Day CHAPTER 40: Borealis PART 3: LIGHT INSIDE MY HEART CHAPTER 41: Sharpshooter CHAPTER 42: Swan Lake CHAPTER 43: Bearing Up CHAPTER 44: Growing Pains CHAPTER 45: Woodswoman, Reprise CHAPTER 46: Dream Story Author’s Note Acknowledgments Bibliography About the Author Photo Insert PROLOGUE WOODSWOMAN A twist of the binoculars’ focus wheel and I gasp: two toddler-sized black bear cubs, one brown and one black, twined together high up in a spruce tree fifty yards away. I scan the ground for the mother. In a nearby huckleberry patch, her cinnamon-colored rump bobs like a swatch of scruffy hide on a clothesline. It unnerves me, this lack of boundaries. Every animal, scat, or track I find brings a new fear—a mother bear will charge, a moose will explode from the brush and trample, something out there will break through and annihilate me into dust. I long for an owl’s head-turning ability so I can take it all in and see what’s coming before it gets me. I turn and dash on tiptoes down the trail, my imagination conjuring up a multitude of lurking predators. This is how I remember those first years on my own in a strange place: thimblefuls of fake courage thrown at a conflagration of fear.
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