k r alte ed DOES YOUR WARDROBE NEED AN UPGRADE? a Altered Clothing shows you how to transform basic, out-of-date, or vintage l t garments and accessories into new custom fashions with a DIY twist. e CLOTHING r e Altered Clothing features: d " C Tips and tricks from a fashion professional that require minimal investment and allow you to reinvent your entire wardrobe! L " O Simple sewing tasks that become fabulous embellishment opportunities T before " Complete photographic step-by-step instructions, before-and-after shots of every H garment, and an array of gallery pieces that provide more inspiration and ideas I N Find great ideas for turning an old pullover into a fabulous cardigan, or a frumpy skirt into G a flirty sundress! Find out how to reshape a baggy jacket, or turn some scarves into a sexy top! Don't discard a nice pair of jeans because they just are worn through or are cut wrong–creative wh itip redesigns, simple reworking, and clever embellishments are the way to go. Rather than buy h f new, mass-produced items, take what you already have in your closet and create not only a anixe es fashion statement but a proclamation of individual style. With knowledge of some basic sewing ea dn hip fixes techniques, anyone can turn old clothing into new favorites with a designer's eye and a little ld e creative inspiration. atr na and dn About the Author s thfo Kathleen Maggio started making clothes for herself at age nine. She has taught fashion design at Mayer rr transformations em a School and Pratt Institute. She currently teaches pattern making, draping, and construction to juniors da t i with a in the BFA program at the Parsons School of Design in New York City. Photographer Timothy Maggio o n owns a business that integrates photography, technology, and design. Both live in New York City. s needle and thread Also Available: Making Handbags Making Leather New Techniques 1-56496-849-9 Handbags for Wearable Art 1-59253-076-1 1-59253-075-3 M A G G IO / ISBN-13: 978-1-59253-246-9 M A Crafts/Sewing ISBN-10: 1-59253-246-2 G G KATHLEEN MAGGIO IO $24.99 US PHOTOGRAPHY BY TIMOTHY MAGGIO PC £16.99 UK AN U $32.95 CAN E k domestic arts for crafty girls www.rockpub.com AC 001-013_ 1/11/07 11:45 AM Page 1 r alte ed CLOTHING Altered Clothing AC 001-013_ 1/11/07 11:45 AM Page 2 To Donald Brooks,whose work inspired my designs for this book © 2006 by Quarry Books All rights reserved.No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without written permission of the copyright owners.All images in this book have been reproduced with the knowledge and prior consent of the artists concerned,and no responsibility is accepted by producer, publisher,or printer for any infringement of copyright or otherwise, arising from the contents of this publication.Every effort has been made to ensure that credits accurately comply with information supplied.We apologize for any inaccuracies that may have occurred and will resolve inaccurate or missing information in a subsequent reprinting of the book. First published in the United States of America by Quarry Books,a member of Quayside Publishing Group 33 Commercial Street Gloucester,Massachusetts 01930-5089 Telephone:(978) 282-9590 Fax:(978) 283-2742 www.rockpub.com Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Maggio,Kathleen Altered clothing :hip fixes and transformations with a needle and thread / Kathleen Maggio and Timothy Maggio. p. cm.—(Domestic arts for crafty girls) ISBN 1-59253-246-2 (pbk.) 1. Clothing and dress—Alteration.2. Clothing and dress— Remaking. I. Maggio,Timothy.II. Title.III. Series. TT550.M24 2006 646.4'04—dc22 2006008906 CIP ISBN-13:978-1-59253-246-9 ISBN-10:1-59253-246-2 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Cover and Book Design:Rockport Publishers Cover Image and Photography: Timothy Maggio ofVinepod,Inc. Photographs on pages 8–11 courtesy of www.istock.com Technical Editor:Susan Huxley Assistant Technical Editor:Katherine Riess Printed in Singapore Altered Clothing AC 001-013_ 1/11/07 11:45 AM Page 3 r alte ed CLOTHING hip fixes and transformations with a needle and thread KATHLEEN MAGGIO PHOTOGRAPHY BYTIMOTHY MAGGIO k domestic arts for crafty girls Altered Clothing AC 001-013_ 1/11/07 11:45 AM Page 4 contents Altered Clothing AC 001-013_ 1/11/07 11:45 AM Page 5 Introduction ................................................6 Flat ’50s Frock to Flirty Fabulous Dress ....................................72 SECTION 1: GETTING STARTED .............. Simple Strapless to Bodice Beauty......76 8 Office Cardigan to Cropped Topper....80 Clothes and Inspiration ..........................10 Plain-Jane Jacket to Knit- Trims ............................................................11 and-Nylon Eye-Catcher......................84 Basic Sewing Kit ........................................13 Stretched-out Tee to Basic Stitches............................................14 Sparkling Halter..................................90 Interfacings and Web..............................18 Dot Dress to Party Princess..................94 Finishes........................................................18 Wall Street to Chic Sheath ................100 Techniques..................................................20 ’60s Mod to Mod Maiden ......................104 Washed-up Raincoat to SECTION 2: PROJECTS............................30 City Slicker ........................................108 Stained Skirt to Wavy Wonder............32 Drab Khaki to Delicate Detailing ........114 Quiet Tunic to Spirited Vest................38 SECTION 3:TECHNIQUE BOUTIQUE.... Worn-out Flares to 118 Pretty Pedal Pushers..........................44 Pocketed Tote ..........................................48 Patterns ....................................................126 Passé Poncho to Swinging Skirt............50 Glossary ....................................................130 Precious Pullover to Contributors ............................................132 Classy Cardigan....................................54 Resources..................................................133 Tiered Skirt to Stylish Sundress........58 About the Authors ................................135 Shapeless T-shirt to Acknowledgments....................................136 Shoelace Treasure..............................62 His Polo to Her Polynesia........................66 Altered Clothing AC 001-013_ 1/11/07 11:45 AM Page 6 introduction Altered Clothing AC 001-013_ 1/11/07 11:45 AM Page 7 The term “alterations” invokes images gone three face-lifts and it still looks great.I do occasion- of artful tailors,with pins between their lips,turning up a ally drop off donations at secondhand stores,but if there hem.Sadly,this is becoming a lost art.Contributing to this is a way to redo a favorite but outdated sweater,that is is the wide selection of clothing that is inexpensive and when I apply a little ingenuity. readily accessible. It has become fashionable to shop at thrift stores given Over the past few decades,many of us have become too the variety and savings.Many of us feel there are more busy to spend time on our wardrobes.However,custom important things to spend our money on than over- pieces made from ready-made clothes can be completed priced,mass-produced clothing.Certainly,some vintage in an afternoon.Transforming an existing garment is a sat- clothes are of extraordinary quality and detail,unmatched isfying and economically sound alternative to purchasing in today’s market.As the saying goes,“They don’t make new clothes each season.And that transformation is what ’em like they used to.” Usually,these garments are only in this book is all about. need of a belt,buttons,or other small details.These minor additions can provide a whole new look. This is not a book about fitting.While it does address some basic alteration techniques such as hemming,this We all know what we want in our clothes.Some want book shows you how cutting,stitching,and ornamentation to make a quiet statement,while others convey loud can make over a garment into something new and excit- messages about their personality.One of my students ing.By adding details,color,and texture,your clothes will came to class wearing a sheer appliquéd piece that was reflect your personality and style. tied above the bust over layered T-shirts.She said it was a vintage apron,and wore it as an overskirt one day and Everyone wants to look unique.We want to wear things a top the next. that we can relate to and experiment with.We want to stand apart from the crowd.I wore a uniform my first Fashion moves fast and is constantly changing.With the eight years in school.By the time I entered public high techniques you will learn in this book,you can translate a school,I was desperate to express my individual fashion look seen on the street today into a garment you can sense.Most evenings were spent sewing something new to wear tomorrow! All you need are some basic sewing wear the next day. skills and a keen eye for trends.Make a statement and reference your own history,ethnicity,and lifestyle. Recycling clothes makes perfect sense in today’s environ- ment.I value clothing whether it was a gift or something I Making and refashioning clothes is highly creative and used precious time to purchase or make.There is a skirt empowering.I am happy to have this opportunity to in my closet that I made fifteen years ago.It has under- share my ideas with you. N O TI C U D O R T N I 7 Altered Clothing AC 001-013_ 1/11/07 11:45 AM Page 8 getting started BEGIN WITH a garment and an idea for restyling it. A skirt or T-shirt is a great place to start.If you are considering using an embellishment, take a look at the Trims list that follows to think about the possibilities. Tools will be needed to implement your alteration.Refer to Techniques on page 20 for sewing information. 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