Along the Path

455 Pages·2013·6.17 MB·English

2nd
TRAVEL / MEDITATION / BUDDHISM
Edition
The Meditator’s Companion to
Pilgrimage in the Buddha’s India and Nepal
Along the Path is a unique guidebook covering India and
Nepal’s sacred sites; indispensable for the modern-day
practitioner of the Buddha’s teachings. Along the Path:
 OFFERS a rich anthology of deeply inspiring stories relating
to each of the pilgrimage sites connected to the Buddha’s
life and teaching.
 PROVIDES detailed descriptions of each of the sites, including
insider information on what to see and tips on transportation,
accommodation and local cuisine.
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 SUGGESTS excursions and activities in the vicinity of both
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ancient and modern sites. y

 HIGHLIGHTS established Vipassana meditation centres G
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that are best suited to accommodate visiting meditators. l
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 INCLUDES an in-depth travel section to help meditators b
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prepare for a safe launch from home and cultivate g

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cultural sensibilities.

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 PRESENTS practical information with helpful maps, creative
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artwork and spirited narratives from experienced travellers. h
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THE ESSENTIAL COMPANION FOR EVERY MEDITATOR le

VISITING INDIA AND NEPAL! D
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Updates and resources: www.pilgrimage.pariyatti.org a
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$21.95 US
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WWW.PARIYATTI.ORG Kory Goldberg & Michelle Décary E di
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The Meditator's Companion to
Pilgrimage in the BuddhaÕ s India and
Nepal
Downloaded from www.holybooks.com
Kory Goldberg & Michelle DŽ écary
Pariyatti Press
Kory Goldberg is a Humanities professor and Michelle Décary is a freelance
writer, yoga teacher and organic gardener. They have been practising Vipassana
meditation and travelling to the Buddha’s Land since the late 1990s.
Pariyatti Press
an imprint of Pariyatti Publishing
867 Larmon Road
Onalaska, WA 98570 USA
Tel. [+1] 360-978-4998
www.pariyatti.org
© 2013 by Kory Goldberg & Michelle Décary
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be used or reproduced in any man-
ner whatsoever without the written permission of the publisher, except in the case
of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews.
First Edition 2009
Second Edition 2013
ISBN: 978-1-938754-58-6 (Softcover)
ISBN: 978-1-938754-56-2 (Mobi)
ISBN: 978-1-938754-55-5 (ePub)
ISBN: 978-1-938754-57-9 (PDF eBook)
Library of Congress Control Number: 2013912884
Updates and resources: www.pilgrimage.pariyatti.org
The authors wish to thank Aleksei Gomez for permission to use his illustration on
the cover and title page of this book. Thanks also goes to the following artists for
the images they so readily offered for use in this publication:
• Lluïsot Domènech: pages 20, 22, 50, 71, 73, 122, 156 and 313.
• Anita Ghanekar: pages 80 and 290.
• Aleksei Gomez: also pages 103, 114, 137, 164, 248, 301 and 315.
• Gary Gronokowski: page xxii.
• Nik ‘the Bhik’ Halay: pages 116, 144 and 282.
• Jenny Jeffs: pages 1, 88, 90, 93, 113, 143, 162, 212, 241, 278 and 366.
• Michael Pancoe: pages 42, 67, 124, and 367.
• Godeliève Richard: pages 3, 77, 78, 170, 313, 347 and 348.
• Bjarni Wark: pages 61, 82, 135, 173 and 179.
Printed in the United States of America
Not all who wander are lost.
– J.R.R. Tolkien
n
Wherever you travel in this world,
Above, across, or below;
Carefully examine at all times
The arising and passing of all compounded things.
– Gotama the Buddha
Pariyatti Press
Enriching the world by:
• Disseminating the
words of the Buddha
• Providing sustenance
for the seeker’s journey
• Illuminating the
meditator’s path
vii Along the Path
Contents
Preface to the 2nd Edition xi Toilets & Bathrooms 74
Warnings 74
Prologue xiii
Volunteer Work 77
A Note on Names, Language
& References xvii Dhamma Centres 77
Suggested Itineraries
Acknowledgements xix
for a Dhamma Yatra 79
Introduction xxi
Using this Book xxi
The Middle Land
(Majjhima Desa) 80
Travelling in India 1
Dhamma Art,
Architecture & History 81
Planning Your Journey 2
Planning 2 Stūpas (Pagodas,
Cetiyas, Chortens) 81
Choosing Your Dates 2
Temples & Monasteries 82
Seasons 3
Statues of the Buddha 82
Cheap Flights 4
Dhamma Asoka:
Visas & Other Essential Documents 5 His Pillars & Policies 83
Packing 6 The Dhamma’s Decline in India 85
A Travel Routine 9 The Rediscovery of Dhamma
Culture & Practice in India 86
Travelling with Friends 9
Travelling Alone 10 The Middle Land: Uttar Pradesh,
Women Travellers 10 Bihar & South Nepal 88
Travelling with Kids 12
Lumbinī 91
Travelling with Pets 13
Birth of the Bodhisatta 92
Travel Insurance 13
Sleeping & Eating 96
Medications & Vaccinations 14
Coming & Going 96
You’ve landed… 15 Nepalese Kapilavatthu &
Accommodations 15 Surrounding Areas 98
Food 19 Kapilavastu (Kapilavatthu) 99
Health 28 Prince Siddhattha’s First 29 Years 99
Travel: Trains, Buses, The Buddha’s Return
Rickshaws, etc. 42 to the Sakyans 101
The Conscientious Meditator 56 The Kapilavatthu Debate 104
Etiquette around Monks & Nuns 58 Nepalese Kapilavatthu &
Language 62 Surrounding Sites:Site-Sitting 104
Money 67 Sleeping & Eating 110
Communications 69 Coming & Going 110
Business Hours 71 Indian Kapilavatthu: Site-Sitting 111
Shopping 71 Sleeping & Eating 112
Electricity 73 Coming & Going 112
Laundry 73
viii Along the Path
Bodhgayā Shravasti (Sāvatthī) 241
(Buddhagayā, Uruvelā) 113 Tales from Sāvatthī 242
The Great Awakening 114 Site-Sitting 248
Site-Sitting 121 Excursions 271
Sleeping & Eating 132 Sleeping & Eating 271
Volunteer Work in Bodhgayā 132 Coming & Going 271
Coming & Going 133
Excursions 135 Sankasya (Saṅkassa) 274
Glory of the Buddha 274
Sārnāth (Isipatana) 143 Site-Sitting 275
Turning the Wheel of Dhamma 144 Sleeping & Eating 275
Site-Sitting 150 Coming & Going 275
Sleeping & Eating 155 Sleeping & Eating 276
Coming & Going 155
Excursions 156 Mathura (Madhurā) 276
Vārāṇasī Coming & Going 277
Sleeping & Eating 159
Kushinagar (Kusinārā) 278
Coming & Going 160
The Buddha’s Last Days 279
Rajgir (Rājagaha) 162 Site-Sitting 284
Tales from Rājagaha 163 Sleeping & Eating 287
Site-Sitting 173
Sleeping & Eating 188
Excursions 189 Beyond the
Coming & Going 189 Middle Land 290
Nāḷandā 194 The North:
Tales from Nāḷandā 194 Delhi 291
Site-Sitting 195 Shopping, Activities,
Sleeping & Eating 201 Services & Sites 291
Coming & Going 201 Sleeping & Eating 293
Coming & Going 295
Patna (Pāṭaliputta, Pāṭaligāma) 204 Excursions 297
The Importance of Ethics 204
Site-Sitting 205 McLeod Ganj
(Upper Dharamsala) 299
Sleeping & Eating 207
Site-Sitting 299
Coming & Going 207
Hiking & Trekking 302
Excursions 208
Volunteering, Workshops,
Vaishali (Vesālī) 212 Therapies & Sites 304
Tales from Vesālī 213 Sleeping & Eating 306
Site-Sitting 215 Coming & Going 307
Sleeping & Eating 225 Excursions 308
Coming & Going 225 Dehra Dun 309
Excursions 227 Site-Sitting 309
Kaushambi (Kosambī) 233 Excursions & Activities 310
Tales from Kosambī 233 Sleeping & Eating 310
Site-Sitting 236 Coming & Going 310
Sleeping & Eating 238
Coming & Going 238
Excursions 239
ix Along the Path
Jaipur 312 Nagpur 363
Site-Sitting 312 Site-Sitting 363
Shopping & Activities 316 Sleeping & Eating 365
Sleeping & Eating 316 Coming & Going 365
Coming & Going 317
Sanchi (Sāñcī) 366
Excursions 318
Site-Sitting 367
Kathmandu 320 Sleeping & Eating 369
Site-Sitting 320 Coming & Going 369
Shopping, Activities, Excursions 370
Services & Sites 324
Sleeping & Eating 327 Kutch 371
Coming & Going 330 Site-Sitting 371
Border Crossing 331 Activities, Sites & Excursions 374
Excursions 332 Sleeping & Eating 375
Coming & Going 375
The West:
Mumbai 339 The South:
Tales from Mumbai 339 Hyderabad 377
Site-Sitting 341 Site-Sitting 377
Shopping, Activities, Sleeping & Eating 380
Services & Sites 342 Shopping, Activities & Sites 380
Sleeping & Eating 343 Coming & Going 381
Coming & Going 344
Nāgārjunakonda 382
Igatpuri 347 Site-Sitting 382
Site-Sitting 347 Sleeping & Eating 383
Sleeping & Eating 350 Coming & Going 383
Coming & Going 350
Kerala 384
Excursions 351
Site-Sitting 384
Ajaṇṭā, Ellora & Aurangabad 354 Sleeping & Eating 385
Ajaṇṭā Caves 354 Coming & Going 385
Ellora Caves 355
The East:
Aurangabad Caves 355 Kolkata 386
Sleeping & Eating 356 Site-Sitting 386
Coming & Going 356
Activities, Sites &
Volunteer Opportunities 387
Pune 358
Sleeping & Eating 390
Site-Sitting 358
Coming & Going 391
Sleeping & Eating 359
Coming & Going 360 Dhauli (Kalinga) 393
Site-Sitting 393
Karla & Bhaja Caves 361
Sleeping & Eating 393
Karla Caves 361
Coming & Going 394
Bhaja Caves 361
Sleeping & Eating 361 Lalitgiri, Ratnagiri & Udaigiri 395
Coming & Going 362 Sleeping & Eating 395
Coming & Going 395
x Along the Path
Timeline of the Buddha’s Life 396
Glossary 397
Notes 404
References &
Recommended Reading 414
Index 417