Alcohol in Latin America : A Social and Cultural History

317 Pages·2014·3.01 MB·English

by  Gretchen Kristine Pierce

alcohol in latin america

Alcohol in Latin America
A Social and
Cultural History
Edited by
gretchen pierce and áurea toxqui
The University of Arizona Press
© 2014 The Arizona Board of Regents
All rights reserved
www.uapress.arizona.edu
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Alcohol in Latin America : a social and cultural history / edited by Gretchen Pierce and
Áurea Toxqui.
pages cm
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN 978-0-8165-3076-2 (cloth : alk. paper)
1. Drinking of alcoholic beverages—Latin America—History. 2. Alcoholic
beverages—Social aspects—Latin America—History. 3. Alcoholic beverage industry—
Social aspects—Latin America—History. 4. Alcoholism—Social aspects—Latin
America—History. 5. Temperance—Latin America—History. I. Pierce, Gretchen,
1978– II. Toxqui, Áurea, 1970–
GT2883.L29A53 2014
394.1'3098—dc23
2013034784
Cover image: Interior of a Pulquería, José Agustín Arrieta, ca. 1850, one of the earliest de-
pictions of pulquerías, which shows the active presence of women as bartenders and cooks.
(Museo Nacional de Historia, Mexico City. CONACULTA-INAH-MEX [Consejo Nacio-
nal para la Cultura y las Artes-Instituto Nacional de Antropología e Historia]. Authorized
reproduction by Instituto Nacional de Antropología e Historia.)
Publication of this book is made possible in part by the proceeds of a permanent endow-
ment created with the assistance of a Challenge Grant from the National Endowment for
the Humanities, a federal agency.
Manufactured in the United States of America on acid-free, archival-quality paper contain-
ing a minimum of 30% post-consumer waste and processed chlorine free.
19 18 17 16 15 14 6 5 4 3 2 1
Contents
List of Illustrations vii
Acknowledgments ix
Introduction 3
gretchen pierce and áurea toxqui
Part 1. The Prehispanic and Colonial Periods 21
1. A Glass for the Gods and a Gift to My Neighbor:
The Importance of Alcohol in the Pre-Columbian Andes 25
justin jennings
2. Liquid Fire: Alcohol, Identity, and Social Hierarchy in
Colonial Brazil 46
joão azevedo fernandes
3. Drunkenness and Interpersonal Violence in
Colonial Michoacán 67
aaron p. althouse
Part 2. The Long Nineteenth Century (1820s to 1930) 87
4. Wine Country: The Vineyard as National Space in
Nineteenth-Century Argentina 89
nancy hanway
5. Breadwinners or Entrepreneurs?: Women’s Involvement in the
Pulquería World of Mexico City, 1850–1910 104
áurea toxqui
vi  •  Contents
6. Drunks and Dictators: Inebriation’s Gendered, Ethnic, and Class
Components in Guatemala, 1898–1944 131
david carey jr.
Part 3. The Twentieth and Twenty-First Centuries 159
7. Pulqueros, Cerveceros, and Mezcaleros: Small Alcohol Producers
and Popular Resistance to Mexico’s Anti-Alcohol Campaigns,
1910–1940 161
gretchen pierce
8. Tequila Sauza and the Redemption of Mexico’s Vital Fluids,
1873–1970 185
josé orozco
9. Essence and Identity: Transformations in Argentine Wine,
1880–2010 210
steve stein
10. Of Chicha, Majas, and Mingas: Hard Apple Cider and
Local Solidarity in Twenty-First-Century Rural Southern
Chile 242
anton daughters
Glossary 261
Bibliography 267
Contributors 297
Index 301
Illustrations
Figures
5.1. Interior of a Pulquería, José Agustín Arrieta, ca. 1850 107
5.2. Lunch on a Street of Mexico, Charles B. Waite, ca. 1905 111
5.3. Pulquería Waterloo, Casasola, ca. 1905 120
6.1. Johnnie Walker ad, unknown artist, 1937 140
6.2. Ron Amaja ad, unknown artist, 1936 141
7.1. Ex-voto thanking a saint for the US Prohibition of alcohol, unknown
artist, ca. 1920s–1930s 169
9.1. Bodegas López’s El Vasquito label, unknown artist, ca. 1910 214
9.2. La Rural barrel label, unknown artist, ca. 1910 215
9.3. Bodegas y Viñedos Gargantini ad, unknown artist, 1972 221
9.4. Peñaflor Tinto ad, unknown artist, 1969 223
9.5. Peñaflor Rosado ad, unknown artist, 1971 225
9.6. Tupungato and Barrancas ad, unknown artist, 2003 231
9.7. Familia Zuccardi ad, unknown artist, 2003 232
9.8. Norton Perdriel ad, unknown artist, 1997 233
9.9. Navarro Correas ad, unknown artist, 2003 235
9.10. Suter Rojo ad, unknown artist, 2003 236
Tables
6.1. Arrests for Public Inebriation in Guatemala, 1931–1944 138
Maps
I.1. Latin America 2
vii

Acknowledgments
We would like to thank the many people who have helped this book to
become a reality. Thanks to the contributors for writing such insightful
pieces and for working with two junior scholars who had to balance edit-
ing with teaching responsibilities. Elena Jackson Albarrán, Jonathyne
Briggs, and María Muñoz read and commented on the initial book pro-
posal. Bill Beezley, Jeff Pilcher, Stephanie Mitchell, Steve Lewis, and Da-
vid Fahey served as mentors, reading drafts and providing overall insight
into the process of writing an edited collection. Several students helped
with editing and standardizing format, including David Humphrey,
Amanda Clark, and Tommy Carroll. Kristen Buckles has been an incred-
ibly supportive editor, patiently answering our many questions. Finally, we
would both like to thank our very supportive spouses, Jerry Pierce and
Greg Newcomb.
ix