Adventure Guide to Peru (Hunter Travel Guides)

584 Pages·2007·3.71 MB·English

Llamas, Arequipa (Alejandro Balaguer)
The Ultimate Guide to Peru!
Larger than Spain, France and Germany
combined, Peru offers astonishing variety
in its landscape, from the endless desert
coastline, to the cool mountain waters of
Lake Titicaca, the glaciered pinnacles of dventure Guide
the Andes or the rainforests filled with
wildlife. As a resident of Peru, the author
has an insider’s knowledge that you won’t
find in other guides. He shows how to ex-
plore every aspect of the country, through
guided tours or on your own, on brief ex-
cursions or week-long treks.
Peru was home to the Inca empire 500
years ago, the last of a succession of
pre-Columbian civilizations going back
thousands of years. See the remains of
these cultures by trekking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu; observe
the Nazca Lines, vast designs made by ancient peoples and best seen
from the air. Cuzco, Lima, and the Amazon Basin are here to dis-
cover as well.
The tallest mountains outside the Himalayas are in Peru, as are the
world’s two deepest canyons. Hike the Cordillera Blanca – with 50
peaks exceeding 17,000 feet. We tell you how to do it.
Sample some of South America’s best cuisine, tour the highlands and
meet the Quechua-speaking Indians, join in ancient Andean festi-
vals or shamanic ceremonies and sample hallucinogenic potions
used since long before the Incas.
The author shows you how to experience the country more intensely
and directly than most travelers know how to do – seeing the place
close-up, through walks, fishing, rafting, horseback excursions, culi-
nary adventures, meeting the people. n THE AMAZON JUNGLE
n CUZCO, THE SACRED VALLEY
Life is an adventure – let Hunter be your guide! n MACHU PICCHU, LAKE TITICACA
n THE ANDES – HIKING, SKIING
n RESTAURANTS, HOTELS, FESTIVALS
Hunter Publishing, Inc. ISBN 1-58843-593-8
130 Campus Drive 978-1-58843-593-4
Edison NJ 08818
Printed on recycled paper Peru
$22.99
9781588 435934 5 2 2 9 9
HUNTER Nicholas Gill
w w w . h u n t e r p u b l i s h i n g . c o m
dventure Guide
Peru
Peru
Nicholas Gill
HUNTER PUBLISHING, INC.
130 Campus Drive, Edison, NJ 08818-7816
% 732-225-1900 / 800-255-0343 / fax [phone]
www.hunterpublishing.com
E-mail
Contents
Introduction 1 Adventures 178
History 2 Tours 181
Geography/Land 14 Language Schools 181
Flora & Fauna 17 Entertainment 182
National Parks, Reserves 37 Day-Trips from Lima 183
Government 40 The Southern Coast 187
Economy 41 Chincha Alta 187
Peru’s People 42 Where to Stay 188
Language 45 Day-Trips from Chincha 188
Religion 45 Pisco 190
Food & Drink 46 Getting Here & Around 190
Festivals & Events 56 Sightseeing 191
Shopping 61 Where to Stay 191
Arts & Culture 64 Where to Eat 191
Recommended Reading 70 Day-Trips from Pisco 192
Top 20 Adventures In Peru 71 Adventures on Water 194
The Star System 74 Ica 195
Travel Information 74 Getting Here 196
Documentation 74 Tourist Information 196
Health & Safety 75 Sightseeing 196
Toilets 78 Adventures 197
Crime 78 Wine Tasting 198
Safety Tips 79 Festivals 200
Drugs 79 Day-Trips from Ica 201
Liquor Laws 80 Where to Stay 202
Communications 80 Where to Eat 203
Information Sources 81 Nazca 203
Newspapers & Magazines 83 Getting Here & Around 205
Internet 84 Tourist Information 205
Mail & Shipping 84 Sightseeing 205
Currency & Banking 84 The Nazca Lines 206
Electricity 86 Adventures 208
Time Zone 86 Day-Trips from Nazca 209
What to Take 86 Where to Stay 210
Local Customs 90 Where to Eat 211
Photography 90 Arequipa 211
Getting Here 92 Getting Here 213
Getting Around 94 Getting Around 214
Tour Operators 98 Tourist Information 214
Where to Stay 101 Where to Stay 215
Sports 105 Where to Eat 219
Lima 111 Bars/Clubs/Pubs 221
History 114 Sights 222
Getting Here 118 Tours 231
Getting Around 122 Shopping 232
The Colonial Center 128 Language Schools 233
Barrio Chino/Chinatown 138 Festivals 233
Callao 138 Day-Trips from Arequipa 233
Pueblo Libre 141 Adventures 234
San Borja 143 Chivay 237
San Isidro 143 Where to Stay 237
Miraflores 149 Restaurants 237
Monterrico 164 Days-Trips from Chivay 238
The Costa Verde 165 Yanque 238
Barranco 165 Sightseeing 238
Chorrillos 172 Where to Stay 239
Sports 177 Cabanaconde 239
iv n Contents
Where to Stay & Eat 240 Sightseeing 281
Sightseeing 240 Shopping 284
Tacna 242 Where to Stay 284
Tourist Information 244 Where to Eat 286
Getting Here 244 Bars 287
Getting Around 245 Festivals 287
Sightseeing 245 Day-Trips from Ayacucho 288
Where to Stay 246 Tour Companies 291
Where to Eat 248 Cuzco & the Sacred Valley 293
Bars & Clubs 248 Cuzco 296
Shopping 249 History 297
Day-Trips from Tacna 249 Getting Here 299
Tour Companies 250 Getting Around 304
To/From Chile 250 Tourist Information 304
The Central Highlands 253 Sights 306
Huánuco 253 Barrio San Blas 314
Getting Here 253 Ruins Around Cuzco 316
Banks 254 Language Schools 318
Sightseeing 254 Where to Stay 319
Where to Stay 255 Where to Eat 326
Where to Eat 256 Bars & Clubs 331
Bars 257 Entertainment 332
Day-Trips from Huánuco 257 Shopping 333
Tours 258 Adventures 337
Huancayo 258 Festivals 343
Getting Here 260 Urubamba & Yucay 345
Tourist Information 261 Getting Here & Around 345
Sightseeing 261 Sights 346
Where to Stay 263 Where to Stay 347
Where to Eat 264 Where to Eat 351
Bars/Nightlife 265 Bars 352
Shopping 266 Tour Agencies 352
Language Lessons 266 Adventures 353
Day-Trips from Huancayo 267 Pisac 354
Adventures 267 Getting Here & Away 354
Huancavelica 268 Sights 354
Getting Here 269 Where to Stay & Eat 357
Tourist Information 269 Ollantaytambo 358
Sightseeing 270 Getting Here & Away 360
Where to Stay 271 Tourist Information 360
Where to Eat 272 Sights 360
Adventures 272 Where to Stay 362
Abancay 273 Where to Eat 363
Getting Here 274 Tourist Agencies 364
Banks 274 Adventures 364
Where to Stay 274 Moray & Maras 365
Where to Eat 274 Chinchero 366
Tour Companies 275 Getting Here 366
Andahuaylas 275 Sights 367
Getting Here 276 Aguas Caliente 368
Bank 276 Getting Here & Around 368
Sights 276 Sights 370
Where to Stay 276 Where to Stay 370
Where to Eat 277 Where to Eat 372
Day-Trips 277 Shopping 373
Ayacucho 278 Massages 373
History 280 Machu Picchu 373
Getting Here 280 History 376
Tourist Information 281 The Ruins 378
Contents n v
Where to Stay 381 Sightseeing 443
The Inca Trail 381 Where to Stay 447
The New Regulations 382 Where to Eat 449
The Trail 384 Bars & Clubs 451
Alternative Trails 387 Shopping 451
Lake Titicaca & Puno 391 Tour Agencies 451
Puno 391 Festivals 452
Getting Here 393 Day-Trips 452
Getting Around 394 Adventures 455
Tourist Information 394 Chachapoyas 456
Sightseeing 395 Tourist Information 456
Where to Stay 396 Getting Here 457
Where to Eat 399 Sightseeing 457
Bars 401 Where to Stay 458
Shopping 401 Where to Eat 459
Tour Companies 402 Shopping 460
Festivals 402 Tour Companies 460
Day-Trips from Puno 403 Day-Trips 460
Juliaca 406 Huancabamba 463
Getting Here & Away 406 The North Coast 465
Banks 407 Trujillo 465
Where to Stay 407 Pre-History 466
Lake Titicaca 408 Getting Here 466
Getting Here & Around 408 Sightseeing 467
Adventures on Water 409 Where to Stay 470
Cordillera Blanca 413 Where to Eat 472
Huaraz 414 Bars & Clubs 473
Climate 414 Tour Agencies & Guides 474
Getting Here 416 Festivals 474
Tourist Information 417 Day-Trips from Trujillo 475
Sightseeing 417 Huanchaco 479
Where to Stay 420 Getting Here 479
Where to Eat 424 Where to Stay 480
Groceries 425 Where to Eat 480
Bars & Clubs 425 Tour Companies 482
Shopping 426 Adventures on Water 482
Language Schools 426 Chiclayo 483
Festivals 426 Getting Here 483
Tour Companies 427 Tourist Information 484
Day-Trips from Huaraz 428 Sightseeing 484
Parque Huascarán 430 Where to Stay 485
Adventures 432 Where to Eat 487
Carhuaz 435 Bars & Clubs 487
Getting Here 436 Shopping 488
Where to Stay 436 Tourist Agencies 488
Yungay 436 Day-Trips from Chiclayo 488
Getting Here 436 Tumbes 491
Sights 436 History 491
Caraz 437 Tourist Information 492
Getting Here 437 Getting Here 492
Where to Stay 437 Sightseeing 494
Where to Eat 438 Where to Stay 494
Tour Agencies 438 Where to Eat 495
Bars & Clubs 496
Northern Highlands 439
Tour Agencies 496
Cajamarca 439
Day-Trips from Tumbes 497
History 441
Adventures 498
Getting Here 442
Getting to/from Ecuador 499
Tourist Information 443
Piura 499
vi n Contents
Getting Here 500 Contamana 556
Tourist Information 501 The Southeastern Jungle/
Sightseeing 501 Madre de Dios 557
Where to Stay 502 Puerto Maldonado 558
Where to Eat 504 Festivals 558
Bars 505 Getting Here 558
Tour Agencies 505 Getting Around 559
Day-Trips from Piura 505 Tourist Information 560
Mancora 506 Sightseeing 562
Getting Here & Around 506 Where to Stay 562
Tourist Information 507 Where to Eat 563
Where to Stay 507 Shopping 564
Where to Eat 510 Bars & Clubs 564
Bars & Clubs 511 Tours & Activities 565
Shopping 512 Border Crossing Info 566
Adventures 512 Jungle Lodges 567
Day-Trips from Mancora 512 Boca Manu 575
The Amazon 515 Getting Here 575
Northern Amazon 515 Lodges 575
Iquitos 519 Tour Operators 575
History 520
Maps
Getting Here 520
Regions of Perú 8
Getting Around 522
Eco-Regions of Peru 15
Tourist Information 522
Sightseeing 524 Lima Overview 112
Where to Stay 528 Lima Center 129
Where to Eat 529 San Isidro 145
Bars/Clubs 530 Miraflores 152
Adventures 531 Barranco 167
Day-Trips from Iquitos 533
South Coast 189
Ecolodges 534
Nasca Lines 204
River Cruises 539
Arequipa 212
Adventures 540
Tacna 243
Casinos 541
Central Highlands 252
Shopping 541
Festivals 541 Huancayo 259
Yurimaguas 542 Ayacucho 279
Getting Here 542 Sacred Valley 292
Where to Stay 542 Cuzco & the Sacred Valley 295
Day-Trips 542
Cuzco Hotels & Attractions 308
Tarapoto 543
Cuzco Dining & Nightlife 309
Getting Here 543
Ollantaytambo 359
Tourist Information 543
Aguas Calientes 369
Where to Stay 544
Machu Picchu 375
Where to Eat 545
Bars 545 Inca Trail Tekking 385
Adventures on Water 545 Lake Titicaca 390
Pucallpa 546 Puno 392
Getting Here 547 Huaraz Region 415
Getting Around 548 Huaraz City 419
Tourist Information 548
Northern Highlands 440
Sightseeing 548
Cajamarca 444
Where to Stay 551
North Coast 464
Where to Eat 552
Tumbes 493
Day-Trips from Pucallpa 552
Amazon 516-17
Shamanic Ceremonies 553
Where to Stay 551 Iquitos 521
Tours 555 Puerto Maldonado 561
Shopping 555 Southeastern Jungle 574
Nicholas Gill has written for newspapers, magazines, and
websites on locations and subjects varying from Guinness beer to
the bazaars of Marrakech to the temples at Angkor, Cambodia.
He lived in Peru while he was writing this book, in Lima, Cuzco
and in the Lima suburb of Chorrillos. He returns to Peru often
and intends to continue exploring and trying to understand this
fascinating country as long as he lives.
I have met many people along the way, without whose help this
book would not have been possible.
Special thanks to the many fellow-travelers who have had a great
impact on my writing. For example the Brits Jackie and Martin in
Arequipa and Colca Canyon, the bikers Martina and Peter, who
helped me get to the continent in the first place, Roland, Jerome,
Chris, Tobias and everyone else who made the stay in Pantoja and
the trip up the Napo so hellish. Danny of Alaska, Quito and North
Carolina for our chance encounter in Mancora. And everyone who
was stuck with me for days at a time in Amazon lodges and tours
of Lake Titicaca, and of course the many 20-hour bus rides.
In Huaraz, Peruvian Andes Adventures and the Morales family
for their generosity in taking me on several hikes in the area and
José Olaza for his kind hospitality.
In Iquitos, Peter Jensen, Roldan, and everyone at Explorama for
going out of their way to help me and make my stay there more
than pleasant, Mayuna Lodge for working with my tight sched-
ule, and the Pilpintuwasi Butterfly Farm for their kindness and
dedication. In Puerto Maldonado, Nury, Patricia and everyone at
Explorer’s Inn for not letting me leave. In Cuzco and the Sacred
Valley, my friend and a wonderful vet Karen, Jamie at Luna
Rumi, Christian at Kapaj N’an in Urubamba, and everyone at the
Amauta Spanish school.
In Lima I would like to thank my friends Sylvana, Marissa,
Marina, and Pilar for their help in exploring the city’s nightlife.
Mariem Valdez and the rest of the Valdez family for their warmth
and for treating me like a member of their family.
I would also like to thank my brother Ryan and sister-in-law
Lindsey for their kind support, as well as my parents for instilling
a love of travel in me that will last the rest of my life.
And last but certainly not least, the sweet and beautiful Claudia
Tello Justo, who was my best friend and sometimes travel com-
panion, and who made my entire time in Peru more than worth-
while.
Introduction
Kiss the secret stones with Me.
The Torrential Silver Of The Urubamba
Makes The Pollen Fly To Its Yellow Cup.
Pablo Neruda
eru is one of the most
Pdiverse and fascinating IN THIS CHAPTER
countries on the planet. Of n History 2
the 117 life zones on earth, n Geography 14
84 can be found here. n Flora & Fauna 17
Because of this, Peru’s flora n Preservation 32
and fauna is some of the n Eco-Tourism 32
most unusual on earth. Sci- n Parks & Reserves 37
entists are only beginning to n Government 40
grasp just how many species n Economy 41
exist and how many are still n The People 42
likely to be discovered. n Education 45
n Language 45
Large areas of rainforest
n Religion 45
and mountains remain
n Food & Drink 46
unexplored. It was only in
n Restaurants 55
the past few decades that n Water 56
research began on the can- n Events 56
opy tops, the upper levels of n Shopping 61
the rainforest, which have n Arts & Culture 64
opened up a whole new n Recommended Reading 70
world of plant and wildlife. n Top 20 Adventures 71
As far as history goes, there n Travel Information 74
is more here than anywhere
else in the Americas. Most have heard of the Incas and Machu
Picchu, but there were many large civilizations here long
before the Incas: the Chavín, Chimu, Moche, Wari, Nazca and
Paracas. Each group left their mark on the country in some
way and their achievements, artifacts, and architecture are
more impressive in many ways than that of the Incas.
The adventure possibilities are endless. Each region offers an
array of unique activities. On the coast, try surfing,
paragliding, fishing, or even sand-boarding. In the Andes, you
Introduction