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Adventure Guide to Peru (Hunter Travel Guides) PDF

584 Pages·2007·3.71 MB·English
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Llamas, Arequipa (Alejandro Balaguer) The Ultimate Guide to Peru! Larger than Spain, France and Germany combined, Peru offers astonishing variety in its landscape, from the endless desert coastline, to the cool mountain waters of Lake Titicaca, the glaciered pinnacles of dventure Guide the Andes or the rainforests filled with wildlife. As a resident of Peru, the author has an insider’s knowledge that you won’t find in other guides. He shows how to ex- plore every aspect of the country, through guided tours or on your own, on brief ex- cursions or week-long treks. Peru was home to the Inca empire 500 years ago, the last of a succession of pre-Columbian civilizations going back thousands of years. See the remains of these cultures by trekking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu; observe the Nazca Lines, vast designs made by ancient peoples and best seen from the air. Cuzco, Lima, and the Amazon Basin are here to dis- cover as well. The tallest mountains outside the Himalayas are in Peru, as are the world’s two deepest canyons. Hike the Cordillera Blanca – with 50 peaks exceeding 17,000 feet. We tell you how to do it. Sample some of South America’s best cuisine, tour the highlands and meet the Quechua-speaking Indians, join in ancient Andean festi- vals or shamanic ceremonies and sample hallucinogenic potions used since long before the Incas. The author shows you how to experience the country more intensely and directly than most travelers know how to do – seeing the place close-up, through walks, fishing, rafting, horseback excursions, culi- nary adventures, meeting the people. n THE AMAZON JUNGLE n CUZCO, THE SACRED VALLEY Life is an adventure – let Hunter be your guide! n MACHU PICCHU, LAKE TITICACA n THE ANDES – HIKING, SKIING n RESTAURANTS, HOTELS, FESTIVALS Hunter Publishing, Inc. ISBN 1-58843-593-8 130 Campus Drive 978-1-58843-593-4 Edison NJ 08818 Printed on recycled paper Peru $22.99 9781588 435934 5 2 2 9 9 HUNTER Nicholas Gill w w w . h u n t e r p u b l i s h i n g . c o m dventure Guide Peru Peru Nicholas Gill HUNTER PUBLISHING, INC. 130 Campus Drive, Edison, NJ 08818-7816 % 732-225-1900 / 800-255-0343 / fax 732-417-1744 www.hunterpublishing.com E-mail Contents Introduction 1 Adventures 178 History 2 Tours 181 Geography/Land 14 Language Schools 181 Flora & Fauna 17 Entertainment 182 National Parks, Reserves 37 Day-Trips from Lima 183 Government 40 The Southern Coast 187 Economy 41 Chincha Alta 187 Peru’s People 42 Where to Stay 188 Language 45 Day-Trips from Chincha 188 Religion 45 Pisco 190 Food & Drink 46 Getting Here & Around 190 Festivals & Events 56 Sightseeing 191 Shopping 61 Where to Stay 191 Arts & Culture 64 Where to Eat 191 Recommended Reading 70 Day-Trips from Pisco 192 Top 20 Adventures In Peru 71 Adventures on Water 194 The Star System 74 Ica 195 Travel Information 74 Getting Here 196 Documentation 74 Tourist Information 196 Health & Safety 75 Sightseeing 196 Toilets 78 Adventures 197 Crime 78 Wine Tasting 198 Safety Tips 79 Festivals 200 Drugs 79 Day-Trips from Ica 201 Liquor Laws 80 Where to Stay 202 Communications 80 Where to Eat 203 Information Sources 81 Nazca 203 Newspapers & Magazines 83 Getting Here & Around 205 Internet 84 Tourist Information 205 Mail & Shipping 84 Sightseeing 205 Currency & Banking 84 The Nazca Lines 206 Electricity 86 Adventures 208 Time Zone 86 Day-Trips from Nazca 209 What to Take 86 Where to Stay 210 Local Customs 90 Where to Eat 211 Photography 90 Arequipa 211 Getting Here 92 Getting Here 213 Getting Around 94 Getting Around 214 Tour Operators 98 Tourist Information 214 Where to Stay 101 Where to Stay 215 Sports 105 Where to Eat 219 Lima 111 Bars/Clubs/Pubs 221 History 114 Sights 222 Getting Here 118 Tours 231 Getting Around 122 Shopping 232 The Colonial Center 128 Language Schools 233 Barrio Chino/Chinatown 138 Festivals 233 Callao 138 Day-Trips from Arequipa 233 Pueblo Libre 141 Adventures 234 San Borja 143 Chivay 237 San Isidro 143 Where to Stay 237 Miraflores 149 Restaurants 237 Monterrico 164 Days-Trips from Chivay 238 The Costa Verde 165 Yanque 238 Barranco 165 Sightseeing 238 Chorrillos 172 Where to Stay 239 Sports 177 Cabanaconde 239 iv n Contents Where to Stay & Eat 240 Sightseeing 281 Sightseeing 240 Shopping 284 Tacna 242 Where to Stay 284 Tourist Information 244 Where to Eat 286 Getting Here 244 Bars 287 Getting Around 245 Festivals 287 Sightseeing 245 Day-Trips from Ayacucho 288 Where to Stay 246 Tour Companies 291 Where to Eat 248 Cuzco & the Sacred Valley 293 Bars & Clubs 248 Cuzco 296 Shopping 249 History 297 Day-Trips from Tacna 249 Getting Here 299 Tour Companies 250 Getting Around 304 To/From Chile 250 Tourist Information 304 The Central Highlands 253 Sights 306 Huánuco 253 Barrio San Blas 314 Getting Here 253 Ruins Around Cuzco 316 Banks 254 Language Schools 318 Sightseeing 254 Where to Stay 319 Where to Stay 255 Where to Eat 326 Where to Eat 256 Bars & Clubs 331 Bars 257 Entertainment 332 Day-Trips from Huánuco 257 Shopping 333 Tours 258 Adventures 337 Huancayo 258 Festivals 343 Getting Here 260 Urubamba & Yucay 345 Tourist Information 261 Getting Here & Around 345 Sightseeing 261 Sights 346 Where to Stay 263 Where to Stay 347 Where to Eat 264 Where to Eat 351 Bars/Nightlife 265 Bars 352 Shopping 266 Tour Agencies 352 Language Lessons 266 Adventures 353 Day-Trips from Huancayo 267 Pisac 354 Adventures 267 Getting Here & Away 354 Huancavelica 268 Sights 354 Getting Here 269 Where to Stay & Eat 357 Tourist Information 269 Ollantaytambo 358 Sightseeing 270 Getting Here & Away 360 Where to Stay 271 Tourist Information 360 Where to Eat 272 Sights 360 Adventures 272 Where to Stay 362 Abancay 273 Where to Eat 363 Getting Here 274 Tourist Agencies 364 Banks 274 Adventures 364 Where to Stay 274 Moray & Maras 365 Where to Eat 274 Chinchero 366 Tour Companies 275 Getting Here 366 Andahuaylas 275 Sights 367 Getting Here 276 Aguas Caliente 368 Bank 276 Getting Here & Around 368 Sights 276 Sights 370 Where to Stay 276 Where to Stay 370 Where to Eat 277 Where to Eat 372 Day-Trips 277 Shopping 373 Ayacucho 278 Massages 373 History 280 Machu Picchu 373 Getting Here 280 History 376 Tourist Information 281 The Ruins 378 Contents n v Where to Stay 381 Sightseeing 443 The Inca Trail 381 Where to Stay 447 The New Regulations 382 Where to Eat 449 The Trail 384 Bars & Clubs 451 Alternative Trails 387 Shopping 451 Lake Titicaca & Puno 391 Tour Agencies 451 Puno 391 Festivals 452 Getting Here 393 Day-Trips 452 Getting Around 394 Adventures 455 Tourist Information 394 Chachapoyas 456 Sightseeing 395 Tourist Information 456 Where to Stay 396 Getting Here 457 Where to Eat 399 Sightseeing 457 Bars 401 Where to Stay 458 Shopping 401 Where to Eat 459 Tour Companies 402 Shopping 460 Festivals 402 Tour Companies 460 Day-Trips from Puno 403 Day-Trips 460 Juliaca 406 Huancabamba 463 Getting Here & Away 406 The North Coast 465 Banks 407 Trujillo 465 Where to Stay 407 Pre-History 466 Lake Titicaca 408 Getting Here 466 Getting Here & Around 408 Sightseeing 467 Adventures on Water 409 Where to Stay 470 Cordillera Blanca 413 Where to Eat 472 Huaraz 414 Bars & Clubs 473 Climate 414 Tour Agencies & Guides 474 Getting Here 416 Festivals 474 Tourist Information 417 Day-Trips from Trujillo 475 Sightseeing 417 Huanchaco 479 Where to Stay 420 Getting Here 479 Where to Eat 424 Where to Stay 480 Groceries 425 Where to Eat 480 Bars & Clubs 425 Tour Companies 482 Shopping 426 Adventures on Water 482 Language Schools 426 Chiclayo 483 Festivals 426 Getting Here 483 Tour Companies 427 Tourist Information 484 Day-Trips from Huaraz 428 Sightseeing 484 Parque Huascarán 430 Where to Stay 485 Adventures 432 Where to Eat 487 Carhuaz 435 Bars & Clubs 487 Getting Here 436 Shopping 488 Where to Stay 436 Tourist Agencies 488 Yungay 436 Day-Trips from Chiclayo 488 Getting Here 436 Tumbes 491 Sights 436 History 491 Caraz 437 Tourist Information 492 Getting Here 437 Getting Here 492 Where to Stay 437 Sightseeing 494 Where to Eat 438 Where to Stay 494 Tour Agencies 438 Where to Eat 495 Bars & Clubs 496 Northern Highlands 439 Tour Agencies 496 Cajamarca 439 Day-Trips from Tumbes 497 History 441 Adventures 498 Getting Here 442 Getting to/from Ecuador 499 Tourist Information 443 Piura 499 vi n Contents Getting Here 500 Contamana 556 Tourist Information 501 The Southeastern Jungle/ Sightseeing 501 Madre de Dios 557 Where to Stay 502 Puerto Maldonado 558 Where to Eat 504 Festivals 558 Bars 505 Getting Here 558 Tour Agencies 505 Getting Around 559 Day-Trips from Piura 505 Tourist Information 560 Mancora 506 Sightseeing 562 Getting Here & Around 506 Where to Stay 562 Tourist Information 507 Where to Eat 563 Where to Stay 507 Shopping 564 Where to Eat 510 Bars & Clubs 564 Bars & Clubs 511 Tours & Activities 565 Shopping 512 Border Crossing Info 566 Adventures 512 Jungle Lodges 567 Day-Trips from Mancora 512 Boca Manu 575 The Amazon 515 Getting Here 575 Northern Amazon 515 Lodges 575 Iquitos 519 Tour Operators 575 History 520 Maps Getting Here 520 Regions of Perú 8 Getting Around 522 Eco-Regions of Peru 15 Tourist Information 522 Sightseeing 524 Lima Overview 112 Where to Stay 528 Lima Center 129 Where to Eat 529 San Isidro 145 Bars/Clubs 530 Miraflores 152 Adventures 531 Barranco 167 Day-Trips from Iquitos 533 South Coast 189 Ecolodges 534 Nasca Lines 204 River Cruises 539 Arequipa 212 Adventures 540 Tacna 243 Casinos 541 Central Highlands 252 Shopping 541 Festivals 541 Huancayo 259 Yurimaguas 542 Ayacucho 279 Getting Here 542 Sacred Valley 292 Where to Stay 542 Cuzco & the Sacred Valley 295 Day-Trips 542 Cuzco Hotels & Attractions 308 Tarapoto 543 Cuzco Dining & Nightlife 309 Getting Here 543 Ollantaytambo 359 Tourist Information 543 Aguas Calientes 369 Where to Stay 544 Machu Picchu 375 Where to Eat 545 Bars 545 Inca Trail Tekking 385 Adventures on Water 545 Lake Titicaca 390 Pucallpa 546 Puno 392 Getting Here 547 Huaraz Region 415 Getting Around 548 Huaraz City 419 Tourist Information 548 Northern Highlands 440 Sightseeing 548 Cajamarca 444 Where to Stay 551 North Coast 464 Where to Eat 552 Tumbes 493 Day-Trips from Pucallpa 552 Amazon 516-17 Shamanic Ceremonies 553 Where to Stay 551 Iquitos 521 Tours 555 Puerto Maldonado 561 Shopping 555 Southeastern Jungle 574 Nicholas Gill has written for newspapers, magazines, and websites on locations and subjects varying from Guinness beer to the bazaars of Marrakech to the temples at Angkor, Cambodia. He lived in Peru while he was writing this book, in Lima, Cuzco and in the Lima suburb of Chorrillos. He returns to Peru often and intends to continue exploring and trying to understand this fascinating country as long as he lives. I have met many people along the way, without whose help this book would not have been possible. Special thanks to the many fellow-travelers who have had a great impact on my writing. For example the Brits Jackie and Martin in Arequipa and Colca Canyon, the bikers Martina and Peter, who helped me get to the continent in the first place, Roland, Jerome, Chris, Tobias and everyone else who made the stay in Pantoja and the trip up the Napo so hellish. Danny of Alaska, Quito and North Carolina for our chance encounter in Mancora. And everyone who was stuck with me for days at a time in Amazon lodges and tours of Lake Titicaca, and of course the many 20-hour bus rides. In Huaraz, Peruvian Andes Adventures and the Morales family for their generosity in taking me on several hikes in the area and José Olaza for his kind hospitality. In Iquitos, Peter Jensen, Roldan, and everyone at Explorama for going out of their way to help me and make my stay there more than pleasant, Mayuna Lodge for working with my tight sched- ule, and the Pilpintuwasi Butterfly Farm for their kindness and dedication. In Puerto Maldonado, Nury, Patricia and everyone at Explorer’s Inn for not letting me leave. In Cuzco and the Sacred Valley, my friend and a wonderful vet Karen, Jamie at Luna Rumi, Christian at Kapaj N’an in Urubamba, and everyone at the Amauta Spanish school. In Lima I would like to thank my friends Sylvana, Marissa, Marina, and Pilar for their help in exploring the city’s nightlife. Mariem Valdez and the rest of the Valdez family for their warmth and for treating me like a member of their family. I would also like to thank my brother Ryan and sister-in-law Lindsey for their kind support, as well as my parents for instilling a love of travel in me that will last the rest of my life. And last but certainly not least, the sweet and beautiful Claudia Tello Justo, who was my best friend and sometimes travel com- panion, and who made my entire time in Peru more than worth- while. Introduction Kiss the secret stones with Me. The Torrential Silver Of The Urubamba Makes The Pollen Fly To Its Yellow Cup. Pablo Neruda eru is one of the most Pdiverse and fascinating IN THIS CHAPTER countries on the planet. Of n History 2 the 117 life zones on earth, n Geography 14 84 can be found here. n Flora & Fauna 17 Because of this, Peru’s flora n Preservation 32 and fauna is some of the n Eco-Tourism 32 most unusual on earth. Sci- n Parks & Reserves 37 entists are only beginning to n Government 40 grasp just how many species n Economy 41 exist and how many are still n The People 42 likely to be discovered. n Education 45 n Language 45 Large areas of rainforest n Religion 45 and mountains remain n Food & Drink 46 unexplored. It was only in n Restaurants 55 the past few decades that n Water 56 research began on the can- n Events 56 opy tops, the upper levels of n Shopping 61 the rainforest, which have n Arts & Culture 64 opened up a whole new n Recommended Reading 70 world of plant and wildlife. n Top 20 Adventures 71 As far as history goes, there n Travel Information 74 is more here than anywhere else in the Americas. Most have heard of the Incas and Machu Picchu, but there were many large civilizations here long before the Incas: the Chavín, Chimu, Moche, Wari, Nazca and Paracas. Each group left their mark on the country in some way and their achievements, artifacts, and architecture are more impressive in many ways than that of the Incas. The adventure possibilities are endless. Each region offers an array of unique activities. On the coast, try surfing, paragliding, fishing, or even sand-boarding. In the Andes, you Introduction

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