Adventure Guide to New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island PDF
Preview Adventure Guide to New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island
dventure Guide to New Brunswick & Prince Edward Island Barbara Radcliffe Rogers & Stillman Rogers HUNTERPUBLISHING,INC. 130CampusDrive Edison,NJ08818-7816 (cid:1)732-225-1900/800-255-0343/fax732-417-1744 www.hunterpublishing.com [email protected] INCANADA: UlyssesTravelPublications 4176Saint-Denis,Montréal,Québec CanadaH2W2M5 (cid:1)514-843-9882ext.2232/fax514-843-9448 INTHEUNITEDKINGDOM: WindsorBooksInternational TheBoundary,WheatleyRoad,Garsington Oxford,OX449EJEngland (cid:1)01865-361122/fax01865-361133 ISBN1-58843-118-5 ©2002,BarbaraRadcliffeRogers&StillmanRogers ThisandotherHuntertravelguidesarealsoavailablease-books inavarietyofdigitalformatsthroughouronlinepartners,includingAma- zon.com,BarnesandNoble.com,andeBooks.com. Allrightsreserved.Nopartofthispublicationmaybereproduced,storedinaretrieval system,ortransmittedinanyform,orbyanymeans,electronic,mechanical,photo- copying,recording,orotherwise,withoutthewrittenpermissionofthepublisher.Brief excerptsforrevieworpromotionalpurposesarepermitted. Thisguidefocusesonrecreationalactivities.Asallsuchactivitiescontainelementsof risk,thepublisher,author,affiliatedindividualsandcompaniesdisclaimanyrespon- sibilityforanyinjury,harm,orillnessthatmayoccurtoanyonethrough,orbyuseof, theinformationinthisbook.Everyeffortwasmadetoinsuretheaccuracyofinforma- tioninthisbook,butthepublisherandauthordonotassume,andherebydisclaim, anyliabilityforlossordamagecausedbyerrors,omissions,misleadinginformationor potentialtravelproblemscausedbythisguide,evenifsucherrorsoromissionsresult fromnegligence,accidentoranyothercause. All photos by authors, unless otherwise indicated. MapsbyLissaK.DaileyandToniCarbone,©2002HunterPublishing,Inc. IndexingbyNancyWolff 4 3 2 1 Authors’ Foreword OuradventuresinNewBrunswickandPrinceEdwardIslandgobackto theveryfirstdaysofourmarriage,whenwechosetoexploretheseprov- incesonourhoneymoon.WesetoutfortwoweeksinAugustinagutsylit- tle TR-4, without hotel reservations, but with a good road map and a senseofhumor.Ourcar’sbiggernow–toholdallthecampingequipment andtocarryracksforthebikesandkayaks–andthegrowingpopularity of the provinces has made reservations wise in the summer, but we still carryagoodmapandthesenseofhumor. We’vetraveledmuchoftheworldtogether,andwiththefamilythatgrew fromthatmarriagethatwecelebratedonthathoneymoonintheTR4.But noplaceonearthhasconstantlyofferedallofussomanyadventuresorso manychancestobroadenourrepertoireofoutdooractivities.Inthesetwo provinceswefirstwentdeep-seafishing,dugourfirstclams,sawourfirst whales,foundourfirstfossils,paddledourfirstkayaksandhandledour firstdogteams.Herewe’vehikeddeepintotheonlyremainingstretchof coastalwildernessontheAtlanticsideofNorthAmerica. Anexperienceneednotbea“first”tobeanadventure,andMaritimeCan- ada continues to surprise and delight us with its variety after all these years. Until we were writing this book, for example, we had never seen the tremendous sand dunes along the new section of Prince Edward Is- landNationalPark,nearSt.Peters,takeonthecontoursoftheSahara. Thewildlifeweseeisacontinuingsourceofsurpriseandwonder:swirling clouds of sandpipers at Mary’s Point, deer in the backyard of the Hiram WalkerEstateinSt.Andrews,moosebesidetheroadinKeswick,harbor porpoiseinCharlottetown,salmonjumpingintheMiramichi,sealpupsin Murray River, Osprey nesting at Point Escumiac, puffins off Grand Manan, bald eagles on the Tobique, the continent’s largest great blue heroncolonyatSouris,cormorantsontheseastackatPokeshawandan island solid with birds in Malpeque Bay. And, of course, the Fundy whales.Otherplacesintheworldboasttousoftheirwhalepopulations, butwetrytobegoodguestsandnotremindthemthatwehavethebest rightinourbackyard.Wedon’tevenhavetogooutinaboattoseethem: ourfavoritespottingpointisfromalighthouseonCampobelloIsland. BarbaraandTimRogers A Word of Thanks Even when it has only two authors, a travel book is a group project. No twohumanscouldpossiblygatheralltheinformation,sampletheactivi- ties,hikethetrails,tastethefoodandpaddlethewatersrequiredofareli- able guide book without a lot of help from other people. We’ve been singularlyblessedinwritingthisone.Helphascomewhereverwetravel andmorehelphasawaitedusathome. Twopeoplestandoutfortheircontinuingroleinourwork:ValerieKidney in New Brunswick and Carol Horne in Prince Edward Island. Their knowledge,diplomacy,perseveranceandgoodhumormakesthemeacha pleasuretoknowandworkwith.Othersstandoutaswell,joiningValerie and Carol in smoothing the road before us and putting us in touch with just the right people to answer our questions (or answering them them- selves) – Percy Mallet, Lee Heenan, Nancy Sears, Candee Treadway, Ralph Johansen, Dick Griffiths, Monica Campbell-Hoppe, and Lois Ger- ber. Throughoutthetwoprovinces,wehaveneverfailedtobeamazedatthe wealth of knowledge and information that waits for travelers in each of the local and provincial tourist information offices along the way. What thepeoplewhostaffthesedon’tknowthemselves,they’llfindoutwithina couple of telephone calls. Their enthusiasm for their homeland and the eagernesswithwhichtheyshareitisoneofthegreatpleasuresoftravel, nottomentionmakingourworkaloteasieraswetrytoferretourobscure bitsofinformation.Wecan’tlistthemall–weoftendon’tevenknowtheir names – but remember especially Lisa Cormier and Philip Barnhill, the good-humoredduointheinformationofficeinBathurst. Other people seem to appear randomly, in gestures typical of Maritime hospitality – we remember especially a conversation on the dock at Shippagan with Muriel Savoie, as we watched a veritable fleet of little puk-a-pukssetofffortheBlessingoftheFleetonemorning. There are the travel companions, too, with whom we have shared the laughs and wonders of travels there. Paddling companions Darrell Me- sheau and Glen Larsen come to mind, and the ever-laughing Melanie Coates. Innkeepers in general are a rich source of local information for travel writers,andweexploitthemmercilessly.Whileallwehavemetinthese twoprovinceshavegoneoutoftheirwaytobehelpful(andaresupremely hospitablebynature),somehavegonesofarbeyondthedemandsofhos- pitality that we think of them whenever someone uses the word. Eliza- beth Cooney in St. Andrews, Katherine Van Weston in St. Martins and IdaandLarryAdair,whoarenevertoobusytodropwhattheyaredoing toshowussomenewwonderinthevastFundywildernesstheycallhome. Fellowtravelwritersarejustasgenerousoftheirtimeandknowledge,es- pecially Tom Bross, who shares discoveries made as he travels in New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island, and Lura Rogers, who took time fromwritingherownbooktohelpuspreparethismanuscriptwhentime grewshort. While we’d sometimes prefer to be writing with our favorite fountain pens, reality requires many hours at a computer, and ours seem to wait until a manuscript is almost due, then either develop highly eccentric habits or stop working altogether. To Tracy Pillsbury, computer guru extraordinaire, who hops into his truck and makes house calls from two hours away, goes our eternal gratitude for setting them right at a mo- ment’snotice. We’ve left the ever-patient Lissa Dailey for last, although she’s the one who actually made this book real. As our editor and our friend, she’s a treasure, and to her goes the heartiest thanks of all. It is, after all, the friendshipsthatwillendure,longafterthetravelsareover. Dedication To Wayne Kidney, without whom New Brunswick just won’t be thesame. About the Authors Tim and Barbara Rogers have been wandering around Canada since theveryfirstdaysoftheirmarriage,hikingitstrails,campinginits parks, climbing its mountains, kayaking its waters and skiing its snow. Until recently, they saved the Atlantic Provinces for themselves, going there for family vacations while they wrote about other places in the world.TheirbookshavecoveredsuchwidespreadlocationsastheGalapa- gosIslandsofEcuador,Africansafariparks,Portugal,NewEnglandand theriversandseasofEurope.Theirarticlesinmagazinesandnewspapers have described their adventures on several continents, from climbing a volcanoonthebackofacamelto“driving”theirownhouseboatthrough the canals of England. Exotic, they insist, is simply a matter of perspec- tive,andtheyfindalioninthebushnomoreexcitingthanlookingaFundy whalestraightintheeye. Contents Introduction Geography&Terrain 3 History 3 GettingAround 5 RentalCars 5 DrivingintheMaritimeProvinces 6 ExchangeRate&Taxes 7 Adventures 7 OnFoot 9 OnWheels 10 OnWater 11 OnSnow 14 OnHorseback 15 Cultural&Eco-TravelExperiences 15 Fauna&Flora 16 Wildlife 16 Insects 17 Sightseeing 17 WhereToStay&Eat 18 Prices 18 LocalFoods 19 InformationSources 21 New Brunswick Introduction 23 NewBrunswick’sParks 24 DayAdventures 25 Fishing 27 InformationSources 27 TouristInformation 27 RecommendedReading 27 TheQuoddyShore 29 Geography&History 29 GettingAround 30 InformationSources 31 Adventures 32 OnFoot 32 OnWheels 33 OnWater 34 OnSnow 38 AdventuresOnGrandManan 39 GrandMananOnFoot 39 GrandMananOnWheels 40 GrandMananOnWater 42 Wildlife-WatchingonGrandManan 43 GrandManan’sCulinaryDelights 45 Cultural&Eco-TravelExperiences 46 SalmonRuletheWaves 48 Wildlife-Watching 50 viii (cid:1) NewBrunswick&PrinceEdwardIsland Sightseeing 51 CampobelloIsland 51 St.Andrews 52 WhereToStay&Eat 54 InSt.Andrews 55 TheMainland&InnerIslands 57 OnGrandManan 58 Camping 60 TheFundyCoast 60 Geography&History 61 GettingAround 62 InformationSources 63 Adventures 65 OnFoot 66 OnWheels 72 OnWater 74 OnSnow&Ice 78 OnHorseback 80 Cultural&Eco-TravelExperiences 81 NaturalAreas 81 Sightseeing 90 CraftStudios&Shops 93 Festivals&Events 93 WhereToStay&Eat 94 NearSussex&FundyNationalPark 94 SaintJohn&theBays 98 Camping 102 TheLowerRiverValley 103 Geography&History 103 GettingAround 104 InformationSources 105 Adventures 106 OnFoot 106 OnWheels 107 OnWater 108 OnSnow 109 OnHorseback 110 Cultural&Eco-TravelExperiences 110 Sightseeing 113 CraftStudios&Shops 115 Festivals&Events 115 WhereToStay&Eat 116 FrederictonArea 116 LowerRiver&GrandLake 118 Camping 118 TheUpperRiverValley 119 Geography&History 119 GettingAround 120 InformationSources 120 Adventures 121 OnFoot 121 OnWheels 122 Contents (cid:1) ix OnWater 122 OnSnow 124 OnHorseback 126 Cultural&Eco-TravelExperiences 126 NaturalAreas&Wildlife 128 Sightseeing 129 CraftStudios&Shops 129 Festivals&Events 129 WheretoStay&Eat 130 WoodstocktoPerth-Andover 130 TheNorthernValley 132 Camping 133 TheMountains 133 Geography&History 133 GettingAround 134 InformationSources 135 Adventures 135 OnFoot 135 OnWheels 136 OnWater 137 OnSnow 139 Cultural&Eco-TravelExperiences 140 Sightseeing 141 WhereToStay&Eat 142 AlongtheChaleurCoast 142 IntheHeartoftheRestigouche 143 Camping 144 TheAcadianCoast 144 Geography&History 144 GettingAround 145 InformationSources 145 Adventures 146 OnFoot 146 OnWheels 148 OnWater 149 OnSnow&Ice 154 OnHorseback 159 Cultural&Eco-TravelExperiences 160 NaturalAreas 165 Sightseeing 166 CraftStudios&Shops 167 Festivals&Events 168 WhereToStay&Eat 169 TheNorthCoast 169 OnthePeninsula 172 AlongtheEastCoast 173 Camping 174 TheMiramichi 175 Geography&History 175 GettingAround 176 InformationSources 177
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