Adventure guide to Montana

632 Pages·2000·3.808 MB·English

by  Rowles, Genevieve

dv enture GuideTMto
MMMooonnntttaaannnaaa
Genevieve Rowles
HUNTER
HUNTER PUBLISHING, INC,
130 Campus Drive, Edison, NJ 08818
732-225-1900; 800-255-0343; Fax [phone]
[email protected]
The Boundary, Wheatley Road, Garsington
Oxford, OX44 9EJ England
01865-361122; Fax [phone]
ISBN 1-58843-212-2
© 2000 Genevieve Rowles
Allrightsreserved.Nopartofthispublicationmaybereproduced,storedina
retrievalsystem,ortransmittedinanyform,orbyanymeans,electronic,me-
chanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the written permis-
sion of the publisher.
Thisguidefocusesonrecreationalactivities.Asallsuchactivitiescontainele-
mentsofrisk,thepublisher,author,affiliatedindividualsandcompaniesdis-
claim any responsibility for any injury, harm, or illness that may occur to
anyone through, or by use of, the information in this book. Every effort was
madetoinsuretheaccuracyofinformationinthisbook,butthepublisherand
authordonotassume,andherebydisclaim,anyliabilityforanylossordam-
age caused by errors, omissions, misleading information or potential travel
problems caused by this guide, even if such errors or omissions result from
negligence, accident or any other cause.
Cover photo: View from Going-to-the-Sun Road,
Glacier National Park (© Donnie Sexton)
Photos on pages 117, 277 and 518 © Victor Bjornberg; on page 163 © Lonie
Stimac; on page 175 © Georgia Maclean. Other photos © Donnie Sexton. All
photos courtesy Travel Montana.
Maps by Kim André, © 2000 Hunter Publishing, Inc.
1 2 3 4
Contents
INTRODUCTION 1
Discovering Montana 1
Geography & History 3
Climate 11
Flora & Fauna 13
The People 20
Travel Strategies & Helpful Facts 55
Information Sources 64
Airlines 65
Buses 65
Railways 65
Handy Contacts 65
State Tourism Offices 65
Regional Tourism Offices 65
Federal Government Agencies 66
State Government Agencies 66
National Parks 67
National Forest Headquarters 67
Indian Reservations 67
Activity-Related Organizations 67
CUSTER COUNTRY 69
Introduction 69
History 70
Custer Country Today 73
The Land 73
Climate 74
Getting Around 75
Information Sources 76
Touring 79
The Southern Corridor 80
Chief Plenty Coups State Park 80
Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area 80
Hardin 81
Little Bighorn 82
The Crow & Northern Cheyenne Reservations 83
Colstrip 84
Broadus 84
The I-94 Corridor 84
The Lewis & Clark Trail 84
I-94 Corridor Cities & Towns 86
Ranch Country Via US 12 95
Adventures 96
Adventures on Foot 96
Hiking & Backpacking 96
Caving 100
iv (cid:1) Adventure Guide to Montana
Rock Hounding 101
Adventures on Horseback 103
Trail Rides 104
Cattle Drives & Wagon Trains 104
Working Guest Ranches 106
Adventures on Wheels 109
Adventures on Water 110
Rivers 110
The Yellowstone 110
The Bighorn 110
The Little Bighorn 111
The Tongue River 111
Boating 112
Bighorn Lake 112
Tongue River Reservoir 112
Fishing 112
Paddlefishing 113
Fly Fishing 114
The Bighorn River 114
Bighorn River Fly Fishing Outfitters & Lodges 115
Adventures on Snow 116
Cross-Country Skiing 117
Snowmobiling 117
Eco-Tours & Cultural Excursions 117
Wildlife Watching 117
Two Moon Park 117
Norm Schoenthal Island 118
Lake Mason National Wildlife Refuge 118
Pompey’s Pillar 118
Howrey Island 118
Yellowtail Dam Afterbay 119
TheWmL.MatthewsRec.&HabitatManagementArea 119
The Terry Badlands 119
The Black’s Pond Drive Route 119
Makoshika State Park 119
Medicine Rocks State Park 120
Long Pines 120
State Parks 120
Special Interest Adventures 122
Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument 122
The Crow & Northern Cheyenne Indian Reservations 123
Festivals & Special Events 124
Where to Stay & Eat 129
Hotels, Motels & B&Bs 130
Ashland 130
Baker 130
Billings 130
Broadus 131
Colstrip 131
Ekalaka 131
Forsyth 131
Contents (cid:1) v
Fort Smith 131
Glendive 132
Hardin 132
Laurel 132
Lodge Grass 132
Miles City 133
Roundup 133
St. Xavier 133
Terry 133
Wibaux 133
US Forest Service Cabins 134
Camping 134
Where to Eat 137
Baker 138
Billings 138
Broadus 138
Forsyth 138
Fort Smith 138
Glendive 139
Hardin 139
Miles City 139
Roundup 139
Wibaux 139
YELLOWSTONE COUNTRY 141
Introduction 141
History 142
A Volcanic Geology 144
Weather 144
Getting Around 145
Information Sources 147
Touring 150
East of the Absaroka-Beartooths 150
Bridger 150
Bearcreek 151
Absarokee 151
Red Lodge 152
Cooke City 154
I-90: Columbus to Three Forks 155
Reed Point 155
Greycliff Prairie Dog Town State Park 155
Big Timber 155
McLeod 156
Livingston 156
Bozeman 158
Belgrade & Manhattan 159
Three Forks 159
Paradise Valley 161
Emigrant 162
Gardiner 162
West Yellowstone 163
Adventures 165
Adventures on Foot 165
vi (cid:1) Adventure Guide to Montana
Hiking & Backpacking 165
BeartoothRangerDistrictoftheCusterNationalForest 167
Backpacking in the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness 168
Hiking the Gallatins & Absarokas 170
Bozeman Area Hikes 171
Hiking the Bridger Range 171
Hiking the Crazies 172
Guided Hiking & Backpacking Trips 173
Special Interest Hikes 175
Hiking With Llamas 175
Caving 175
Rock Climbing 176
Rock Hounding 177
Adventures on Horseback 178
One- and Two-Day Trail Rides 179
Multi-Day & Wilderness Pack Trips 180
Wagon & Sleigh Rides/Wagon Trains 182
Guest Ranches 182
Adventures on Wheels 187
OHV, ATV & Powered Mountain Biking 187
Non-Powered Mountain Biking 188
Guided Mountain Biking Trips 188
Bike Rentals 189
Adventures in the Air 189
Adventures on Water 190
Rafting/Kayaking/Floating 190
The Stillwater River 190
The Yellowstone River 190
The Gallatin River 191
The Boulder River 191
Kayaking 194
Canoeing 194
Boating & Wind Surfing 196
Fishing 196
Adventures on Snow 206
Downhill Skiing/Snowboarding 207
Cross-Country Skiing/Snowshoeing 209
Snowmobiling 211
Dogsledding 216
Wildlife Watching 216
Hailstone National Wildlife Refuge 217
Greycliff Prairie Dog Town 217
Missouri Headwaters State Park 217
Bridger Raptor Migration Route 217
Bozeman Fish Technology Center 218
Kirk Hill 218
Boulder River Falls 218
The Northern Yellowstone Winter Range 218
Yellowstone River Trout Hatchery 218
Jimmy Joe Campground 219
Contents (cid:1) vii
State Parks 219
Madison Buffalo Jump State Park 219
Greycliff Prairie Dog Town State Park 219
Cooney Lake State Park 219
Missouri Headwaters State Park 219
Special Interest Adventures 220
Kid Stuff 221
Just for Teens Trips 221
Festivals & Special Events 222
Where to Stay & Eat 227
Hotels, Motels & B&Bs 227
Big Sky 228
Big Timber 228
Bridger 228
Bozeman 229
Cooke City 229
Emigrant 230
Fishtail 230
Gallatin Gateway 230
Gardiner 231
Livingston 231
Pray 232
Red Lodge 232
Reedpoint 232
Roscoe 233
Silver Gate 233
Three Forks 233
West Yellowstone 233
Historic Hotels 234
US Forest Service Cabins & Lookouts 235
Camping 236
Where to Eat 238
Big Sky 238
Big Timber 239
Bozeman 239
Cooke City 239
Gallatin Gateway 239
Gardiner 240
Livingston 240
Pine Creek 240
Pray 240
Red Lodge 241
West Yellowstone 241
GOLD WEST COUNTRY 243
Introduction 243
Getting Around 251
Information Sources 253
Touring 256
Madison, Jefferson & Beaverhead Valleys 256
US 287 256
Ennis 257
Lewis & Clark Caverns 258
viii (cid:1) Adventure Guide to Montana
Whitehall 259
Twin Bridges 259
The Beaverhead Valley 259
Nevada City 260
Virginia City 260
West of I-15 & South of I-90 261
Lima & Dell 261
Dillon 262
Bannack 262
Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway 264
Big Hole National Battlefield-
Nez Perce National Historical Park 265
MT 43 267
Anaconda 267
The Pintler Scenic Highway 268
Phillipsburg 268
North of I-90 269
The Deer Lodge Valley 269
Butte 272
Boulder 274
Helena Approaching 275
Townsend 276
Marysville 277
MT 200 278
Lincoln 278
Adventures 279
Adventures on Foot 279
Hiking & Backpacking 279
The Continental Divide National Scenic Trail 279
Hiking on BLM Lands 282
The Lee Metcalf Wilderness 283
The Pioneer Mountains 284
The Dillon Ranger District 284
The Tobacco Root Mountains 284
The Anaconda-Pintler Wilderness 285
Hiking in the Helena National Forest 286
Guided Hiking Trips 287
Llama Treks 287
Caving 288
Rock Climbing 289
Rock Hounding 290
Gem Hunting at Canyon Ferry Dam/Hauser Lake 290
Gold Panning 291
Garnet Hunting 291
Digging for Quartz Crystals 292
The Mineral Museum 292
Adventures on Horseback 292
Outfitters & Guides 292
Guest “Dude” Ranches 294
Working Cattle/Guest Ranches 296
Contents (cid:1) ix
Adventures on Wheels 297
OHV, 4WD & ATV Riding 297
Mountain Biking 298
Beaverhead National Forest Trails & Roads 298
Helena National Forest Roads 298
The Canyon Ferry Lake Area 299
The Elkhorn Mountains 299
Guided Cycling Trips 299
Adventures on Water 300
River Floating/Kayaking 300
Canoeing 300
Gates of the Mountains Tour Boats 302
Recreational Boating & Other Watery Fun 303
Fishing 304
Adventures on Snow 309
Downhill Skiing/Snowboarding 310
Cross-Country Skiing/Snowshoeing 311
Snowmobiling 313
Dog Sled Tours 315
Wildlife Watching 316
Red Rock Lakes National Wildlife Refuge 316
The Rocky Mountain Front Eagle Migration Area 317
Canyon Ferry Lake 317
Canyon Ferry Wildlife Management Area 317
Beartooth Wildlife Management Area 318
Mount Haggin Wildlife Management Area 318
Clark Canyon Reservoir 318
Bannack Ghost Town 318
State Parks 319
Special Interest Adventures 320
Kid Stuff 321
Festivals & Special Events 322
Where to Stay & Eat 328
Hotels, Motels & B&Bs 328
Anaconda 329
Boulder 329
Butte 329
Cameron 330
Centennial Valley 330
Deer Lodge 330
Dell 331
Dillon 331
Ennis 331
Grant 332
Helena 332
Jackson 333
Lincoln 333
McAllister (Ennis Lake) 333
Montana City 334
Nevada City/Virginia City 334
Philipsburg 334
Polaris 335
Pony 335
x (cid:1) Adventure Guide to Montana
Sheridan 335
Townsend 335
Twin Bridges 336
Whitehall 336
Wisdom 336
Wolf Creek 336
US Forest Service Cabins 337
Camping 337
Where to Eat 340
Alder 341
Boulder 341
Butte 341
Deer Lodge 341
Dell 342
Dillon 342
Ennis 342
Grant 342
Helena 343
Marysville 343
Nevada City/Virginia City 343
Philipsburg 343
GLACIER COUNTRY 345
Introduction 345
Getting Around 351
Information Sources 354
Touring 358
The Bitterroot Valley 358
Conner 359
Darby 359
Hamilton 359
Victor 360
Stevensville 360
The Lolo Trail 361
Lolo 361
Missoula & Environs 362
Ghost Towns & Swans 364
Garnet Ghost Town 364
The Seeley/Swan Valley 365
The Flathead Valley: Montana’s Playground 365
Glacier National Park 369
Jammers 370
Sun Tours 370
Glacier’s Landmark Hotels 370
The Going-to-the-Sun Road 372
Blackfeet Indian Reservation 376
Cut Bank 376
Browning 377
A Circle Tour: Tobacco Valley to Kalispell 379
Eureka 379
Lake Koocanusa 380
Yaak 381
Ross Creek Cedar Grove 381