Adventure Guide to Ecuador & the Galapagos Islands (Hunter Travel Guides)

481 Pages·2003·9 MB·English

by  Peter Krahenbuhl

dventure
Guide to
The Galápagos, the Amazon, the Andes...
SLIDE #14 “Simply put, Ecuador provides more biologic, geo-
graphic and recreational diversity than any other
country in Latin America. You can experience the
biological wonders of the Galápagos Islands,
misty coastal cloud forests, the snow-capped dventure Guide to
jewels of the Andes, and the unparalleled diver-
sity of the upper Amazon Basin. Add to this na-
tive markets and the beauty of the indigenous n
THE AMAZON & THE ANDES
people. n
HIKING, RAFTING, BIRDING
True adventure travel entails experiencing life n WHERE TO STAY & EAT
through the simple beauty of discovery. To do so, n SHOPPING FOR CRAFTS
you must expand your limits and open your arms n THE PEOPLE & THEIR CULTURE
to new encounters. Ecuador, a country that of-
fers a cornucopia of rich, newfound experiences,
is full of enchanting natural landscapes and wel-
coming smiles. Whether your goal is recreation,
exploring pristine natural environments, or pho-
tographing the amazing variety of scenes, you will be delighted with the opportu-
nities here. This is a land that gives back three times what you bring to it. So go
now and take a chance. Challenge yourself, meet the people, try their food, and
take a stab at speaking their language. The Ecuadorians will love you for it. And
don’t be surprised when you decide to return!” (from the Introduction)
n Full details on seeing the Galápagos Islands, the Amazon rainforest, the
Andes, the tropical beaches, Quito, Guayaquil
n Visiting the jungle reserves, cloud forests, native villages
n The best accommodations and restaurants in all price ranges
n Hiking, horseback riding, rafting & kayaking, biking, birding, animal spot-
ting, climbing the volcanos, camping
n Shopping for crafts, walking tours, sightseeing, how to get around
n Entertainment, festivals, nightlife
n Climate, history, the people & their culture, the food, business hours, medi-
cal care, banking
n Recommended tour operators, ecotourism and ecolodges
Ecuador
ISBN 1-58843-346-3
Hunter Publishing, Inc.
130 Campus Drive
Edison NJ 08818 &the Galápagos Islands
$18.99 9 781588 433466 3 1 8 9 9
Peter Davis Krahenbuhl
www.hun te rpub l i s h i ng . com
HUNTER
ECUADOR
&the Galápagos Islands
dv enture Guide to
Ecuador
the Galápagos Islands
Peter Davis Krahenbuhl
HUNTER
HUNTER PUBLISHING, INC,
130 Campus Drive, Edison, NJ 08818
% 732-225-1900; 800-255-0343; fax [phone]
www.hunterpublishing.com
Ulysses Travel Publications
4176 Saint-Denis, Montréal, Québec
Canada H2W 2M5
% 514-843-9882, ext. 2232; fax [phone]
Windsor Books
The Boundary, Wheatley Road, Garsington
Oxford, OX44 9EJ England
% 01865-361122; fax [phone]
ISBN 1-58843-346-3
© 2003 Hunter Publishing, Inc.
This and other Hunter travel guides are also
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written permission of the publisher.
This guide focuses on recreational activities. As all such activities contain
elements of risk, the publisher, author, affiliated individuals and compa-
nies disclaim responsibility for any injury, harm, or illness that may oc-
cur to anyone through, or by use of, the information in this book. Every
effort wasmade to insure the accuracy of information in this book, but the
publisher and author do not assume, and hereby disclaim, liability for
any loss or damage caused by errors, omissions, misleading information
or potential travel problems caused by this guide, even if such errors or
omissions result from negligence, accident or any other cause.
Cover photo: Masked boobies, Coral Planet Photography.
All other photos by author. Back cover photo: Monkey in the Oriente.
Index by Nancy Wolff
Cartoons by Joe Kohl
Maps by Kim MacKinnon & Kim André, © 2003 Hunter Publishing, Inc.
1 2 3 4
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n Preface
If there is one bit of advice to carry on your journey it is to use this
guide only as a reference, to help you explore and to expand your com-
fort zone. All too often travel guides and tours tend to “package” expe-
riences, but then you miss half the fun. If it weren’t for the mistakes I
made and resulting experiences, this guide wouldn’t have been writ-
ten (at least not by me). Make it your own journey, wander and make
travelers’ mistakes, finding yourself in new and unexpected places,
meetingnewandunexpected people. Remember that adventure travel
is experiencing life through new discoveries.
Iwant to thank first and foremost the bus driverwhoknew Ihad asked
him to drop me off along the Pan-American Highway in Otavalo, but
just kept on going. Otherwise, I never would havemade it to the beau-
tiful town of Ibarra and discovered the unanticipated beauty of a new-
found place. I also want to thank the South American Explorers and
the far-too-many-to-name organizations, tour operators, hotels,
friends and acquaintances along the way who assisted and enriched
my travels and my life. Finally, to my family and my love, Judith,
thank you.
n About the Author
Peter spentmost of his childhood on the beaches ofOxnard, California.
Favorite memories include surfing, baseball and family camping
wherever Dad found big fly-fishing rivers. After chasing nature and
being chased by “development,” Peter completed his BA in Economics
and Environmental Studies at the University of California, Santa
Barbara. A global interest, particularly in deforestation and develop-
ment, led him to pursue a Master of Public Affairs from Indiana Uni-
versity, concentrating in International Affairs and Environmental
Policy. During this time, his Latin American travels and conservation
projects began in Ecuador. As a result, he developed an Ecotourism
company and joined The World Outdoors in 1997 as an adventure
travel guide.Hehas guided inEcuador, Cuba,WesternNorthAmerica
and elsewhere. While researching and guiding in Ecuador, he met his
beautiful wife, Judith, who has been integral to development of this
guidebook. Peter now works in development at The World Outdoors
and isCo-Director of SustainableTravel International, a not-for-profit
organization working to promote a more responsible travel industry.
His dog, Shady, hates it when he travels, but she understands.
Contents
INTRODUCTION 1
Adventure Awaits 1
Ecuador, the Country 4
Adventure Overview 4
Location 5
History & Politics 5
Geography/Land 16
Climate 18
Flora & Fauna 19
People/Culture 27
Cuisine 29
Government 30
The Economy 31
TRAVEL INFORMATION 33
When to Go 33
Getting Here 34
By Air 34
Airlines Contact Information 35
Getting Around 37
By Air 37
Public Transportation 37
By Boat 38
Hitching a Ride 38
By Rail 38
Renting a Car 39
What to Bring 39
Luggage 39
Clothing & Footwear 40
Equipment 41
Customs & Entry 41
Leaving Ecuador 43
Money Matters 43
Currency 43
Your Money 44
Travel Expenses 44
Taxes & Gratuities 45
Health & Safety 47
Vaccinations 48
Food & Drinking Water 49
Toilets 50
Security 50
Medical Facilities & Doctors 50
Major Medical Facilities 51
vii n Contents
In Quito 51
In Guayaquil 51
Doctors 51
Communication 52
Telephone Service 52
How to Call 53
Internet Access 53
Mail 53
Newspapers 53
Time Zone 54
Electricity 54
Language 54
Studying Spanish 54
Women & Children Travelers 55
Disabled Travelers 56
Gay & Lesbian Travelers 56
Holidays & Festivals 57
Eco-Travel 61
State of the Environment 61
Coastal Ecuador 61
Tropical Dry Forest 61
Mangrove Forests 62
Tropical Wet Forests 63
The Sierras 63
Amazon Deforestation & Development 64
Reserves & National Parks 65
Adventure & Outdoor Activities 67
Hiking, Trekking & Mountaineering 67
Rafting & Kayaking 67
Horseback Riding 68
Mountain Biking 68
Birding, Nature Viewing & Photography 69
Cultural Tourism 69
Island Excursions in the Galápagos 69
Tour Operators & Guides 70
QUITO & VICINITY 71
History 72
Flora & Fauna 73
Getting Here 73
By Air 73
By Bus 74
Getting Around 74
By Taxi 74
By Trolley 76
By Bus 76
By Car 76
Contents n viii
Visitor Information 77
Tourist Offices 79
Hospitals 79
Post Offices, Call Centers & Internet Access 80
Banks 80
Maps 81
Touring & Sightseeing 81
Quito 81
A Walking Tour 82
Plaza de la Independencia 82
Plaza de San Francisco 84
La Compañía 85
Museums 85
Museo de Arte y Historia 85
Museo de Arte Colonial 85
Casa de Sucre 85
Casa de la Cultura Ecuatoriana 86
Museo de Jijón Caamaño 86
Museo de Ciencias Naturales 87
Vivarium 87
Museo Amazonico 87
Parks 87
Vírgin of Quito 89
Around Quito 89
Guapulo Suburb 89
El Mitad del Mundo (Equatorial Monument) 89
Solar Museum 91
Adventures near Quito 91
On Foot 91
Pasochoa Reserve 91
Pichincha Volcano 92
On Horseback 93
Hoofing it through Pululahua National Reserve 93
On Wheels 94
Tour Operators & Guides 94
Eco-Travel 98
Reserves 98
Pululahua Geobotanical Reserve 98
Pasochoa Forest Reserve 98
Hot Springs 99
Papallacta Hot Springs 99
Where to Stay 100
Old Town 100
New Town 101
Budget Hostels 101
Bed & Breakfasts and Hotels 102
Outside Quito 105
ix n Contents
Camping 106
Where to Eat 107
Entertainment, Nightlife & Shopping 110
Nightspots 110
Cinema 112
Shopping 112
THE NORTHERN HIGHLANDS 115
History 117
Flora & Fauna 118
Getting Here & Getting Around 118
Getting to Otavalo 119
Visitor Information 119
Otavalo 119
Ibarra 120
Tulcán 121
Touring & Sightseeing 121
Calderón 122
Cayambe 121
Otavalo 122
Cotacachi 127
Ibarra 127
San Antonio de Ibarra 129
El Ángel 130
Tulcán 130
To the Coast 131
Adventures 132
On Foot 132
Cayambe-Coca Ecological Reserve 132
Around Otavalo 133
Peguche Waterfalls & Surrounding Villages 133
Laguna San Pablo 134
Lagunas de Mojanda 134
Imbabura Volcano 135
Cotocachi Volcano & Lake Cuicocha 135
El Ángel Ecological Reserve 136
Serious Climbing 136
Cayambe Volcano 136
On Wheels 137
Mountain Biking 137
On Horseback 138
Eco-Travel 139
Cochasqui Archeological Site 139
Cayambe-Coca Ecological Reserve 139
Cotacachi-Cayapas Ecological Reserve 140
Rumicucho Archeological Site 141
Intag Cloud Forest Reserve 141
Contents n x
El Ángel Ecological Reserve 142
Jatun Sacha & the Guandera Cloud Forest Reserve 143
Where to Stay 144
Cayambe 144
Otavalo 144
Otavalo Outskirts 146
San Pablo del Lago 147
North of Otavalo 147
Cotacachi 147
Ibarra 148
Camping 148
Cayambe-Coca Ecological Reserve 148
Lagunas Mojandes 149
El Ángel Ecological Reserve 149
Where to Eat 149
Otavalo 149
Ibarra 151
Shopping 152
Nightlife 152
CENTRAL HIGHLANDS 153
Quito South to Riobamba 153
Flora & Fauna 153
Getting Here 154
Getting Around 154
Visitor Information 156
Latacunga 156
Ambato 156
Riobamba 157
Touring & Sightseeing 157
Alóag 157
Machachi & Aloasí 158
Latacunga 158
Ambato 159
Riobamba 162
Adventures 165
On Foot & With Gear 166
El Corazón 166
Ilinizas 166
The Condor Trek: From Papallacta to Cotopaxi 167
Cotopaxi National Park 168
Quilotoa Lake 170
Chimborazo Volcano 172
On Wheels 172
Mountain Biking 172
By 4x4 173
On Horseback 173