Acts of Undressing: Politics, Eroticism, and Discarded Clothing PDF
Preview Acts of Undressing: Politics, Eroticism, and Discarded Clothing
ACTS OF UNDRESSING DRESS, BODY, CULTURE Series Editor: Joanne B. Eicher, Regents’ Professor Emerita, University of Minnesota Advisory Board: Djurdja Bartlett, London College of Fashion, University of the Arts Pamela Church-Gibson, London College of Fashion, University of the Arts James Hall, University of Illinois at Chicago Vicki Karaminas, Massey University, Wellington Gwen O’Neal, University of North Carolina at Greensboro Ted Polhemus, Curator, “Street Style” Exhibition, Victoria and Albert Museum Valerie Steele, The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology Lou Taylor, University of Brighton Karen Tranberg Hansen, Northwestern University Ruth Barnes, Ashmolean Museum, University of Oxford Books in this provocative series seek to articulate the connections between culture and dress which is defined here in its broadest possible sense as any modification or supplement to the body. Interdisciplinary in approach, the series highlights the dialogue between identity and dress, cosmetics, coiffure and body alternations as manifested in practices as varied as plastic surgery, tattooing and ritual scarification. The series aims, in particular, to analyze the meaning of dress in relation to popular culture and gender issues and will include works grounded in anthropology, sociol- ogy, history, art history, literature and folklore. ISSN: 1360-466X Previously Published in the Series: Helen Bradley Foster, “New Raiments of Self”: African American Clothing in the Antebellum South Claudine Griggs, S/he: Changing Sex and Changing Clothes Michaele Thurgood Haynes, Dressing Up Debutantes: Pageantry and Glitz in Texas Anne Brydon and Sandra Niessen, Consuming Fashion: Adorning the Transnational Body Dani Cavallaro and Alexandra Warwick, Fashioning the Frame: Boundaries, Dress and the Body Judith Perani and Norma H. Wolff, Cloth, Dress and Art Patronage in Africa Linda B. Arthur, Religion, Dress and the Body Paul Jobling, Fashion Spreads: Word and Image in Fashion Photography Fadwa El Guindi, Veil: Modesty, Privacy and Resistance Thomas S. Abler, Hinterland Warriors and Military Dress: European Empires and Exotic Uniforms Linda Welters, Folk Dress in Europe and Anatolia: Beliefs about Protection and Fertility Kim K. P. Johnson and Sharron J. Lennon, Appearance and Power Barbara Burman, The Culture of Sewing: Gender, Consumption and Home Dressmaking Annette Lynch, Dress, Gender and Cultural Change: Asian American and African American Rites of Passage Antonia Young, Women Who Become Men: Albanian Sworn Virgins David Muggleton, Inside Subculture: The Postmodern Meaning of Style Nicola White, Reconstructing Italian Fashion: America and the Development of the Italian Fashion Industry Brian J. McVeigh, Wearing Ideology: The Uniformity of Self-Presentation in Japan Shaun Cole, Don We Now Our Gay Apparel: Gay Men’s Dress in the Twentieth Century Kate Ince, Orlan: Millennial Female Ali Guy, Eileen Green and Maura Banim, Through the Wardrobe: Women’s Relationships with Their Clothes Linda B. Arthur, Undressing Religion: Commitment and Conversion from a Cross- Cultural Perspective William J. F. Keenan, Dressed to Impress: Looking the Part Joanne Entwistle and Elizabeth Wilson, Body Dressing Leigh Summers, Bound to Please: A History of the Victorian Corset Paul Hodkinson, Goth: Identity, Style and Subculture Leslie W. Rabine, The Global Circulation of African Fashion Michael Carter, Fashion Classics from Carlyle to Barthes Sandra Niessen, Ann Marie Leshkowich and Carla Jones, Re-Orienting Fashion: The Globalization of Asian Dress Kim K. P. Johnson, Susan J. Torntore and Joanne B. Eicher, Fashion Foundations: Early Writings on Fashion and Dress Helen Bradley Foster and Donald Clay Johnson, Wedding Dress across Cultures Eugenia Paulicelli, Fashion under Fascism: Beyond the Black Shirt Charlotte Suthrell, Unzipping Gender: Sex, Cross-Dressing and Culture Irene Guenther, Nazi Chic? Fashioning Women in the Third Reich Yuniya Kawamura, The Japanese Revolution in Paris Fashion Patricia Calefato, The Clothed Body Ruth Barcan, Nudity: A Cultural Anatomy Samantha Holland, Alternative Femininities: Body, Age and Identity Alexandra Palmer and Hazel Clark, Old Clothes, New Looks: Second Hand Fashion Yuniya Kawamura, Fashion-ology: An Introduction to Fashion Studies Regina A. Root, The Latin American Fashion Reader Linda Welters and Patricia A. Cunningham, Twentieth-Century American Fashion Jennifer Craik, Uniforms Exposed: From Conformity to Transgression Alison L. Goodrum, The National Fabric: Fashion, Britishness, Globalization Annette Lynch and Mitchell D. Strauss, Changing Fashion: A Critical Introduction to Trend Analysis and Meaning Catherine M. Roach, Stripping, Sex and Popular Culture Marybeth C. Stalp, Quilting: The Fabric of Everyday Life Jonathan S. Marion, Ballroom: Culture and Costume in Competitive Dance Dunja Brill, Goth Culture: Gender, Sexuality and Style Joanne Entwistle, The Aesthetic Economy of Fashion: Markets and Value in Clothing and Modelling Juanjuan Wu, Chinese Fashion: From Mao to Now Annette Lynch, Porn Chic: Exploring the Contours of Raunch Eroticism Brent Luvaas, DIY Style: Fashion, Music and Global Cultures Jianhua Zhao, The Chinese Fashion Industry: An Ethnographic Approach Eric Silverman, A Cultural History of Jewish Dress Karen Hansen and D. Soyini Madison, African Dress: Fashion, Agency, Performance Maria Mellins, Vampire Culture Lynne Hume, The Religious Life of Dress Marie Riegels Melchior and Birgitta Svensson, Fashion and Museums: Theory and Practice Masafumi Monden, Japanese Fashion Cultures: Dress and Gender in Contemporary Japan Alfonso McClendon, Fashion and Jazz: Dress, Identity and Subcultural Improvisation Phyllis G. Tortora, Dress, Fashion and Technology: From Prehistory to the Present Barbara Brownie and Danny Graydon, The Superhero Costume: Identity and Disguise in Fact and Fiction Adam Geczy and Vicki Karaminas, Fashion’s Double: Representations of Fashion in Painting, Photography and Film Yuniya Kawamura, Sneakers: Fashion, Gender, and Subculture Heike Jenss, Fashion Studies: Research Methods, Sites and Practices Brent Luvaas, Street Style: An Ethnography of Fashion Blogging Jenny Lantz, The Trendmakers: Behind the Scenes of the Global Fashion Industry ACTS OF UNDRESSING Politics, Eroticism, and Discarded Clothing BARBARA BROWNIE Bloomsbury Academic An imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc LONDON • OXFORD • NEW YORK • NEW DELHI • SYDNEY Bloomsbury Academic An imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc 50 Bedford Square 1385 Broadway London New York WC1B 3DP NY 10018 UK USA www.bloomsbury.com BLOOMSBURY and the Diana logo are trademarks of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc First published 2017 © Barbara Brownie, 2017 Barbara Brownie has asserted her right under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act, 1988, to be identified as Author of this work. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage or retrieval system, without prior permission in writing from the publishers. No responsibility for loss caused to any individual or organization acting on or refraining from action as a result of the material in this publication can be accepted by Bloomsbury or the author. British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. ISBN: HB: 978-1-4725-9619-2 PB: 978-1-4725-9618-5 ePDF: 978-1-4725-9621-5 ePub: 978-1-4725-9622-2 Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress Series: Dress, Body, Culture, 1360466X Cover image: Gallery Stock. Wooden chair next to window with blowing curtain (GS1395580) Typeset by Integra Software Services Pvt. Ltd. CONTENTS List of Illustrations ix Introduction 1 1 Private Acts, Public Display 9 Undressing at home: Participants and observers 11 Cut Piece: Public participation in undressing 16 The choreography of concealment 20 2 Narrative Tease: Neo-burlesque and Storytelling through Striptease 25 Neo-burlesque and dramatic undressing 28 Gender narratives 31 Autobiographical burlesque: Undressing in the pursuit of self 35 Exposing disability 37 3 “Where the Garment Gapes”: The Eroticism of Intermittence 43 Versace: Exposure in motion 44 Hussein Chalayan and unstable coverage 49 Fasteners and unfastening 53 4 Deviance and Disruption: Streaking, Mooning, and Flashing 59 Indecent exposure 60 Exposure and sport 66 Legitimizing and commodifying public disrobement 72 viii CONTENTS 5 Make Love, Not War: Conflict, Resistance, and the Revolutionary Body 77 Gestures of defiance 79 Anasyrma: Proof, shock, and awe 83 Memorializing the undressed 87 6 Abandoned Clothes: Separating Dress from Body 95 Abandoned clothes as territorial markers 98 Tossed shoes and gang territory 105 Abandoned selves 109 Conclusion 113 Notes 119 Bibliography 124 Index 142 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS I.1 Studies of A Woman Undressing, Eadweard Muybridge, 1887. 5 1.1 “How a Wife Should Undress,” Life (February 15, 1937). 13 1.2 Yoko Ono revives Cut Piece for a performance in 2003 at the Ranelagh theatre in Paris. 18 1.3 Masako Matsushita performs UN/DRESS at Crash Festival, Birmingham, UK, April 20, 2013. 23 2.1 Mitzi May performs a Cyberman burlesque routine. 26 2.2 Leyla Liquorice and Flora Gattina perform at the World Burlesque Games, 2013. 34 3.1 Actress Angelina Jolie arrives at the 84th Annual Academy Awards in Hollywood, California. 48 3.2 Hussein Chalayan’s “Aeroplane Dress,” Echoform (A/W 1999). 50 3.3 Sebastian Errazuriz’s N3 Zipper Dress. 56 4.1 Janet Jackson and Justin Timberlake during Super Bowl XXXVIII Halftime Show at Reliant Stadium in Houston, Texas. 63 4.2 A streaker is tackled by Joique Bell of the Detroit Lions, 2013. 71 5.1 Eugène Delacroix (1830), La Liberté guidant le people, oil on canvas, 260 × 325 cm, Musée du Louvre, Paris. 81 5.2 Charles-Dominique-Joseph Eisen (1762), illustration for Jean de La Fontaine’s “The Devil of Pope-Fig Island.” 85 5.3 Gyula Pauer and Janos Can Togay, Shoes on the Danube, 2005, Budapest, cast iron. 91 6.1 Jude Tallichet, Dropped Clothes, 2011. 96 6.2 President Barack Obama tries out different desk chairs in the Oval Office, 2009. 103
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