About Face: Performing Race in Fashion and Theater PDF
Preview About Face: Performing Race in Fashion and Theater
This page intentionally left blank A B O U T F A C E This page intentionally left blank ~ABOUI- PERFOR~ING RAe E I N FASHION AND THE ATE R FA C E Dorinne Kondo I~ ~~o~!J;n~~~up LONDON AND NEW YORK First published 1997 by Routledge Published 2014 by Routledge 711 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017 2 Park Square, Milton Park, Abingdon, Oxon Ox14 4RN Routledge is on imprint of the Taylor & Francis Group, an informa business Transferred to Digital Printing 2008 Copyright © 1997 by Routledge Designer: Mark Abrams All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reprinted or reproduced or utilized in any form or by an electronic, mechanical or other means, now known or hereafter invented, including photo copying and recording, or in any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writ ing from the publisher. ISBN 978-0-41S-91140-S.(cI.1 ISBN 978-0-41S-91141-2.(pbk.1 Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Number: 96-43837 Publisher's Note The publisher has gone to great lengths to ensure the quality of this reprint but points out that some imperfections in the original may be apparent FOR MY PARENTS • • • OKAGESAMA DE This page intentionally left blank contents Acknowledgments VII Vignette Xl INTRODUCTION 1 The Politics of Pleasure 3 PART ONE: ORIENTALISIojS 2 M. Butterfly: Gender, Orientalism, and a Critique of Essentialist Identity 31 3 Orientalizing: Fashioning Japan 55 PART TWO: CONSUIojIIojG GENDER. RACE AND NATION Vignette 103 4 The Limits of the Avant-Garde? Gender and Race on the Runway 105 Vignette 155 5 Fabricating Masculinity: Gender, Race, and Nation in the Transnational Circuit 157 PART THREE: STRATEGIES OF INTERVENTION 6 The Narrative Production of Home in Asian American Theater 189 7 Interview with David Henry Hwang 211 8 Art, Activism, Asia, Asian Americans 227 References cited 261 V Index 271 This page intentionally left blank acknowledgments OUR I N G THE CO U R 5 E of researching and writing this book, my life has been touched by the generosity of many. First, to those in the fashion and the ater worlds who inspired this inquiry and made it possible, my warm apprecia tion. Fieldwork for the fashion project occurred at periodic intervals between 1989 and 1993, including trips to view the collections in Paris and Tokyo, atten dance at sales exhibitions, and interviews with designers' representatives, fash ion professionals, and, at Comme des Gan;ons, the designer herself. My thanks to: Designer Rei Kawakubo and the Press Department at Comme des Gar((ons, especially Jan Kawata and Miki Higasa; Marion Greenberg and her staff in New York; Jun Kanai of Issey Miyake; Chiaki Yamamura at Yohji Yamamoto. For introductions and advice, Vincent Crapanzano and Jane Kramer; Holly Brubach; Diana Crane; Valerie Steele; for their time, the people who graciously consent ed to interviews: Jeff Weinstein of the Village Voice; Jean Drusedow, then of the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art; Harold Koda, then of Fashion Institute of Technology in New York and now of the Costume Institute at the Met; designer Diane Pemet; Susan Sidlauskas; Barbara Weiser. For avail VII ing me of their knowledge of photography and magazine layout, thanks to Erwin Ferguson and Amy Bass-Wilson. Laura Brousseau offered her acute analytic insight on the Kyoto etrangere section.
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