Immoral and illegal practices in the food industry and what to do about them Edited by Allison Gray Ronald Hinch A HANDBOOK OF FOOD CRIME Immoral and illegal practices in the food industry and what to do about them Edited by Allison Gray and Ronald Hinch First published in Great Britain in 2018 by Policy Press North American office: University of Bristol Policy Press 1-9 Old Park Hill c/o The University of Chicago Press Bristol BS2 8BB 1427 East 60th Street UK Chicago, IL 60637, USA t: +44 (0)117 954 5940 t: +1 773 702 7700 e: [email protected] f: +1 773-702-9756 www.policypress.co.uk e:[email protected] www.press.uchicago.edu © Policy Press 2018 British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data A catalog record for this book has been requested. ISBN 978-1-4473-3601-3 hardcover ISBN 978-1-4473-3603-7 ePub ISBN 978-1-4473-3604-4 Mobi ISBN 978-1-4473-3602-0 ePdf The right of Allison Gray and Ronald Hinch to be identified as editors of this work has been asserted by them in accordance with the 1988 Copyright, Designs and Patents Act. All rights reserved: no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise without the prior permission of Policy Press. The statements and opinions contained within this publication are solely those of the editors and contributors and not of The University of Bristol or Policy Press. The University of Bristol and Policy Press disclaim responsibility for any injury to persons or property resulting from any material published in this publication. Policy Press works to counter discrimination on grounds of gender, race, disability, age and sexuality. Cover design by Policy Press Front cover: image kindly supplied by www.alamy.com Printed and bound in Great Britain by CPI Group (UK) Ltd, Croydon, CR0 4YY Policy Press uses environmentally responsible print partners Contents List of tables and figures vi Notes on contributors vii Introduction 1 Ronald Hinch and Allison Gray Section I: Thinking about food crime 9 1 A food crime perspective 11 Allison Gray 2 Food crime without criminals: Agri-food safety governance as a 27 protection racket for dominant political and economic interest Martha McMahon and Kora Liegh Glatt 3 The social construction of illegality within local food systems 43 Marcello De Rosa, Ferro Trabalzi and Tiziana Pagnani Section II: Farming and food production 59 4 Ethical challenges facing farm managers 61 Harvey S. James Jr 5 Chocolate, slavery, forced labour, child labour and the state 77 Ronald Hinch 6 Impact of hazardous substances and pesticides on farmers and 93 farming communities Jinky Leilanie Del Prado-Lu Section III: Processing, marketing and accessing food 109 7 Agency and responsibility: The case of the food industry 111 and obesity Judith Schrempf-Stirling and Robert Phillips 8 The value of product sampling in mitigating food adulteration 127 Louise Manning and Jan Mei Soon 9 Prohibitive property practices: The impact of restrictive 141 covenants on the built food environment Sugandhi del Canto and Rachel Engler-Stringer iii A HANDBOOK OF FOOD CRIME Section IV: Corporate food and food safety 157 10 Regulating food fraud: Public and private law responses in 159 the EU, Italy and the Netherlands Antonia Corini and Bernd van der Meulen 11 Mass Salmonella poisoning by the Peanut Corporation 175 of America: Lessons in state-corporate food crime Paul Leighton 12 Food crime in the context of cheap capitalism 193 Joseph Yaw Asomah and Hongming Cheng Section V: Food trade and movement 211 13 Crime versus harm in the transportation of animals: 213 A closer look at Ontario’s ‘pig trial’ Amy Fitzgerald and Wesley Tourangeau 14 Coming together to combat food fraud: Regulatory networks 229 in the EU Richard Hyde and Ashley Savage 15 Fair trade laws, labels and ethics 245 Will Low and Eileen Davenport Section VI: Technologies and food 263 16 Food, genetics and knowledge politics 265 Reece Walters 17 Technology, novel food and crime 281 Juanjuan Sun and Xiaocen Liu 18 Food crimes, harms and carnist technologies 295 Linnea Laestadius, Jan Deckers and Stephanie Baran Section VII: Green food 313 19 Farming and climate change 315 Rob White and Jasmine Yeates 20 Food waste (non)regulation 331 Michael A. Long and Michael J. Lynch 21 Responding to neoliberal diets: School meal programmes 347 in Brazil and Canada Estevan Leopoldo de Freitas Coca and Ricardo César Barbosa Júnior Section VIII: Questioning and consuming food 365 22 Counter crimes and food democracy: Suspects and citizens 367 remaking the food system Sue Booth, John Coveney and Dominique Paturel iv CONTENTS 23 Consumer reactions to food safety scandals: A research model 385 and moderating effects Camilla Barbarossa 24 Resisting food crime and the problem of the ‘food police’ 403 Allison Gray Index 421 v List of tables and figures Tables 7.1 Actor-agency matrix 114 8.1 Definitions of food fraud 128 13.1 Comparison of maximum journey lengths 217 Figures 3.1 The economy continuum 51 3.2 Case study positioning along the continuum 54 4.1 Ethical behaviour framework 65 23.1 Appraisal of food-harms, attributions of blame, non-behavioural 388 and behavioural responses toward a faulty food brand, and moderating variables vi Notes on contributors Joseph Yaw Asomah is a PhD candidate at the University of Saskatchewan, Canada. His research interests generally revolve around government accountability, social justice, white-collar and corporate crime, anti-corruption movements and policing. Stephanie Baran is a PhD student in the Department of Sociology at the University of Wisconsin-Milwaukee, USA. Her research interests include racism, capitalism and feminist theory. Camilla Barbarossa is Associate Professor in Marketing at Toulouse Business School, Department of Marketing and International Business, France. Her primary research interests are in the field of ethical and pro-environmental consumption. Specifically, she is interested in analysing consumers’ adoption of environmentally friendly alternatives, and consumers’ cognitive, emotional and behavioural responses to corporate social (ir)responsibility. Ricardo César Barbosa Júnior is an MA student at the University of Calgary, Canada. His research interests include food sovereignty, urban food activism and the spatiality of contentious politics. Sue Booth is an academic in the College of Medicine and Public Health at Flinders University, Australia. Her research interests include food security, food charity and alternative food systems. Hongming Cheng is Professor of Crime, Law and Justice in the Department of Sociology, University of Saskatchewan, Canada. His research focuses on white-collar and corporate crime in the context of globalisation and regional regulatory cooperation. He also studies public attitudes towards the police, land rights, comparative criminology and the sociology of China. vii A HANDBOOK OF FOOD CRIME Estevan Leopoldo de Freitas Coca is an Assistant Professor at Londrina State University, Brazil. His research interests include food sovereignty, land reform and territorial development. Antonia Corini is a PhD researcher at the Doctoral School on the Agro-Food System (Università Cattolica del Sacro Cuore, Italy), where she focuses on food law. Antonia’s research interests include food safety, novel foods, official control and food fraud. John Coveney is a Professor in the College of Nursing and Health Sciences at Flinders University, Australia. His research interests include food policy, food history and food culture and health. Eileen Davenport holds a BA in Sociology (Exeter), and MA and MPhil degrees in Planning (Nottingham Trent). She is currently an adjunct faculty member the School of Humanitarian Studies and the School of Business at Royal Roads University, Canada. Merging these interests, Eileen will soon embark on research related to how to engage refugees in the fair trade process. Marcello De Rosa is an Associate Professor in the Department of Economics and Law at the University of Cassino and Southern Lazio, Italy. His research interests include territorial agri-food systems, illegal practices in agro-food systems, rural entrepreneurship and family farm businesses. Jan Deckers is a Senior Lecturer at Newcastle University in the UK. His research interests focus on bioethical issues. Sugandhi del Canto is a PhD candidate in the Department of Community Health and Epidemiology, College of Medicine, at the University of Saskatchewan, Canada. Sugandhi’s research interests include nutrition, place-based health, mixed-methods research, community-based research, HIV and sexually transmitted infections (STIs), as well as programme and implementation science. Jinky Leilanie Del Prado-Lu is a Research Professor at the National Institutes of Health at the University of the Phillippines, Manila (UPM), and an Affiliate in the Faculty of the College of Arts and Sciences, UPM. Her research interests include promoting wellbeing through occupational epidemiology and advocacy programmes, especially among vulnerable populations such as farmers. viii NOTES ON CONTRIBUTORS Rachel Engler-Stringer is an Associate Professor in the Department of Community Health and Epidemiology, College of Medicine, at the University of Saskatchewan, Canada. Her research interests include community food security, food environments and food access, food system sustainability, health promotion and community-based and participatory research. Amy Fitzgerald is an Associate Professor in the Department of Sociology, Anthropology, and Criminology at the University of Windsor, Canada. She is also a researcher at the Great Lakes Institute for Environmental Research. Amy’s research interests are situated at the culture–nature nexus, focusing on the perpetuation of harms by humans against the environment and non-human animals. Her areas of specialisation include green criminology, (critical) animal studies, environmental sociology and gender studies. Kora Liegh Glatt is an MA student in Sociology at the University of Victoria, Australia. She is currently studying the effects of government regulations on small-scale farmers and the achievement of food sovereignty. Her other interests include Indigenous reconciliation, grassroots social movements and social activism. Allison Gray is a PhD candidate in Sociology at the University of Windsor, Ontario, Canada. Her research interests intersect around the subject of food, ranging across a variety of sociological and criminological perspectives. She is especially keen in studying issues relating to forms of informal food governance, theoretical concerns surrounding the impact of contemporary food systems on human–nature relationships and the connection of food systems and consumption patterns with green criminology perspectives. Ronald Hinch is Professor Emeritus in the Faculty of Social Science and Humanities at the University of Ontario Institute of Technology, Canada. His research interests are eclectic, covering many subjects across criminology and sociology, including critical criminology, sexual assault laws, theoretical criminology, policing violence against women, food crime and the study of serial murder. Richard Hyde is an Associate Professor in the School of Law at the University of Nottingham, UK. He is interested in consumer law in general, and food law in particular, and is particularly interested in ix