A Good Catch: Sustainable Seafood Recipes from Canada's Top Chefs PDF
Preview A Good Catch: Sustainable Seafood Recipes from Canada's Top Chefs
L A T M he ULTIMATE fi sh COOKBOOK for B JILL LAMBERT F resh, local, healthy, socially con- E scious, delicious: sustainable seafood R FOREWORD by DAVID SUZUKI seafood lovers and ENVIRONMENTALLY T is all of these. And by choosing abun- dant species of fish and shellfish and har- CONSCIOUS home chefs vesting them responsibly, we can ensure our JILL LAMBERT is descended from a long line enjoyment of them for many years to come. a of fi shermen. After spending a dozen years This is a cookbook I’ve been waiting for: g Guided by SeaChoice, a program run by as a book editor, she became a writer. She o Sustainable Seafood Canada, A Good Catch a collection of made-in-Canada recipes with a heavy is the author or co-author of several books, o explains which are the best, most respon- emphasis on ethically caught and raised seafood. including the Lesley Stowe Fine Foods Cookbook. d sible seafood choices and features them in But Jill Lambert isn’t satisfi ed with trotting out Jill lives in Vancouver, B.C., with her family. c more than seventy mouth-watering recipes sustainable versions of your grandma’s solomon gundy a Visit her website: www.agoodcatch.org from celebrity chefs across the country. and shrimp-and-cheese balls. From Charlottetown t c Among the delights are Jamie Kennedy’s CHRIS AERNI · KAREN BARNABY to Sooke, she’s cast wide and netted some of the h a good catch Marinated Herring with Warm Apple and country’s best chefs, and I’m pleased to say there’s MONICA BAUCHÉ AND DENNIS JOHNSTON Potato Salad, Rémi Cousyn’s Pickerel absolutely no bycatch or discards: these recipes S u Tempura with Wasabi-Ginger Tartar Sauce, s DAVID BESTON · JOHN BISHOP · GABRIELLE BRIGHT · ANDREW CHASE · CINDA CHAVICH refl ect both Canada’s cultural diversity and the t a fantastic variety of fi sh in its rivers and off its coasts. in Bonnie Stern’s Tilapia Piccata with Aspara- a ROBERT CLARK · JENNIFER COCKRALL-KING · RÉMI COUSYN · LYNN CRAWFORD · TIM CUFF b gus, Frédéric Morin’s Clam Rarebit, Chris A Good Catch is, as the title suggests, a keeper. le JENNIFER DANTER · MARC DE CANCK S Aerni’s Naked Lobster with Green Pea Purée, e TARAS GRESCOE, author of Bottomfeeder: a and Robert Clark’s Oyster and Leek Stew. f ANNE DESJARDINS · TOM DOUGLAS · DAVID FERGUSON · DAVID FEYS · CRAIG FLINN · TERRY GERETA How to Eat Ethically in a World of Vanishing Seafood o o Packed with tips on choosing, storing, d KUNAL GHOSE · ROLAND AND KATHLEEN GLAUSER · TED GRANT · CAMERON GREAVES R and preparing fi sh and shellfi sh; overviews e c DAVID HAWKSWORTH · MATTHEW HORN MICHAEL HOWELL · ANDREA JEFFERSON ip of the principal farming, fi shing, and har- e s Sustainable vesting methods, and summaries of the f JAMIE KENNEDY · BEN KRAMER · LEIF KRAVIS · RENÉE LAVALLÉE · SUSUR LEE · STEVE LEMIEUX · ANDREA LEUNG · PATRICK LIN r o issues affecting individual species (plus sub- m GORDON MACKIE · J.B. MACKINNON · TRISH MAGWOOD PATRICK MCMURRAY · SUSAN MENDELSON C stitutes for popular, unsustainable species), a SEAFOOD RECIPES n A Good Catch is a must-have for afi cionados FRÉDÉRIC MORIN · MARIO NAVARRETE, JR. · NICK NUTTING ROMEO OLORESISIMO · VITALY PALEY a d a of fi ne food and a healthy planet. ’s RUSTY PENNO · STELIO PEROMBELON · SINCLAIR PHILIP SCOTT POHORELIC · KEVIN PRENDERGAST · ANGELO PROSPERI-PORTA T from Canada's o p GARNER QUAIN · DAVID ROBERTSON LIANA ROBBERECHT · JANE RODMELL · JASON ROJAS C h e • • • JOEL ROUSELL · BRYAN SCHILLIE · WADE SIROIS · DUNCAN SMITH · MICHAEL SMITH · BONNIE STERN · LESLEY STOWE f Top Chefs g s vancouv er/toron to/berke ley MICHAEL SULLIVAN · MARINO TAVARES HIDEKAZU TOJO · VIKRAM VIJ · STEVE WALL www.greystonebooks.com ANTHONY WALSH · DOLLY WATTS · JASON WILSON · DAVID WYSE { $24.95 canada } Jacket design and illustrations by Naomi MacDougall Author photo by Jim Boraas © Printed and bound in Canada Printed on forest-friendly paper Distributed in the U.S. by Publishers Group West • • • AGoodCatchCoverFINAL.indd 1 8/28/08 12:52:08 PM a good catch AGoodCatchInteriorFINAL.indd 1 9/12/08 3:36:27 PM Sustainable seaFood recipes a good catch from Canada's Top Chefs AGoodCatchInteriorFINAL.indd 2 9/12/08 3:36:32 PM JILL LAMBERT Sustainable seaFood recipes a good catch from Canada's Top Chefs g Douglas & McIntyre Publishing Group vancouver/toronto/berkeley AGoodCatchInteriorFINAL.indd 3 9/12/08 3:36:39 PM To my husband, Justin Smallbridge, and our boys, Henry and Spencer. Copyright © 2008 by Jill Lambert 08 09 10 11 12 5 4 3 2 1 All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form or by any means, without the prior written consent of the publisher or a licence from The Canadian Copyright Licensing Agency (Access Copyright). For a copyright licence, visit www.accesscopyright.ca or call toll free to 1-800-893-5777. Greystone Books David Suzuki Foundation A division of Douglas & McIntyre Ltd. 2211 West 4th Avenue, Suite 219 2323 Quebec Street, Suite 201 Vancouver, British Columbia Vancouver, British Columbia Canada v6k 4s2 Canada v5t 4s7 www.greystonebooks.com Library and Archives Canada Cataloguing in Publication Lambert, Jill, 1962– A good catch : sustainable seafood recipes from Canada’s top chefs / Jill Lambert. Includes index. Co-published by: David Suzuki Foundation. isbn 978-1-55365-385-1 1. Cookery (Seafood). 2. Sustainable fisheries. i. David Suzuki Foundation ii. Title. tx747.l338 2008 641.6’92 c2008-904112-7 “Fast Fish Hash” adapted from Where People Feast: An Indigenous People’s Cookbook by Dolly and Annie Watts, published by Arsenal Pulp Press. Reprinted by permission of the authors. “Pan-seared Scallops with Leek and Tarragon Sauce” by Trish Magwood extracted from Dish Entertains: Everyday Simple to Special Occasions. Recipe copyright © 2007 by Trish Magwood. Published by HarperCollins Canada Ltd. All rights reserved. Reprinted by permis- sion of the author. “Crispy Fried Trout Fillets with Red Pepper Mayonnaise” by Cinda Chavich extracted from High Plains: The Joy of Alberta Cuisine. Published in 2001 by Fifth House Books. Reprinted by permission of the author. “Walleye Fillets with St. Lawrence Crayfish, Summer Vegetable Medley, and Basil” by Anne Desjardins adapted from Anne Desjardins Cooks at L’Eau à la Bouche: The Seasonal Cuisine of Quebec, published by Douglas & McIntyre. Reprinted by permission of the author. “Salmon and Shrimp Cakes with Blueberry Pear Salsa” by John Bishop adapted from Cooking at My House, published by Douglas & McIntyre. Reprinted by permission of the author. Editing by Lucy Kenward Copyediting by Pam Robertson Jacket and text design by Naomi MacDougall Jacket and interior illustrations by Naomi MacDougall Printed and bound in Canada by Friesens Printed on acid-free paper that is forest friendly (100% post-consumer recycled paper) and has been processed chlorine free Distributed in the US by Publishers Group West We gratefully acknowledge the financial support of the Canada Council for the Arts, the British Columbia Arts Council, the Province of British Columbia through the Book Publishing Tax Credit, and the Government of Canada through the Book Publishing Industry Development Program (bpidp) for our publishing activities. AGoodCatchInteriorFINAL.indd 4 9/12/08 3:36:39 PM Contents 1 Foreword by David Suzuki 3 Acknowledgements 4 Introduction 9 Sustainable Alternatives for Popular Species— Choosing Good Fish Over Bad 10 Choosing, Preparing, and Storing Fish and Seafood 18 Cooking Times for Fish and Seafood 22 Fish 100 shellFish & molluscs 160 Making Sustainable Choices 167 Species by Species Sustainability Guide 178 Metric Conversions 180 Index AGoodCatchInteriorFINAL.indd 5 9/12/08 3:36:39 PM AGoodCatchInteriorFINAL.indd 6 9/12/08 3:36:39 PM Foreword My earliest memories from childhood are of going camping and fishing with my father. And fish have remained a central part of my life ever since. As a young boy growing up in London, Ontario, I was an out- sider. Fish kept me out of trouble and interested in the world. If I was too scared to ask a girl out on a date, I could at least go fish- ing—and I spent hours in local waters trying to entice these fasci- nating creatures to take my hook. Fishing continued to connect me to nature as well as being a source of enjoyment, peace, and food as I went through school, started a family, and built a career. Later in life, I learned from the First Nations in British Columbia about the central role wild salmon have played in their culture and spirituality throughout thousands of years of rich history. More recently, work supported by my foundation has brought to light scientific evidence of the essential role salmon serve in accumulating critical nutrients from the ocean, which are then spread through the entire ecosystem of the Pacific temperate rain forest and even fertilize the mighty trees. Fish and the waters they inhabit sustain us in all kinds of ways. Obviously, they provide food and generate economic activity, they connect and support ecosystems, and they are part of larger marine systems that regulate weather and absorb greenhouse gases to slow global warming. But fish and the oceans, lakes, and rivers where they live are in trouble these days, and it hurts me to see it. Stocks are declin- ing because of overfishing, habitats are being destroyed by bottom trawling or urban sprawl, oceans are being acidified from climate change, and pollution is killing lakes and streams. All of which threaten these animals that we rely on for so much. a good catch 1 AGoodCatchInteriorFINAL.indd 1 9/12/08 3:36:40 PM The problems are many, but we as individuals can help. We can make wise choices about what seafood we eat, and we can trans- late that care into action. By choosing to buy fish that are abundant, well managed, and caught or farmed in ways that do not destroy the environment, we can make a difference: we can reduce the demand for fish that aren’t sustainable, we can put pressure on industries to do better, and we can tell governments that we want them to take care of these precious creatures and their habitat. Please join me in translating the sustainable-seafood recipes in this book, lovingly provided by chefs and fish lovers from across Canada, into wonderful meals. And I hope that, in between meals, you also take the time to tell the folks who work at your local gro- cery stores and restaurants, as well as your elected representatives, how much we need their help to make sustainable seafood the only fish in the sea. So now, enjoy. David Suzuki 2 a good catch AGoodCatchInteriorFINAL.indd 2 9/12/08 3:36:40 PM Acknowledgements My profound thanks to: the chefs, for giving their recipes Dr. David Suzuki, for his support of this project and for his leadership the multi-talented Julie Marr, chief recipe tester, adventure fish shopper, and problem solver Jennifer Danter, who created a clear and consistent recipe manuscript Alison Lambert, Susie Findlay, and Linda Yorke, for recipe testing Lesley Chesterman, Sadie Beaton, Tina Pittaway, Leah Mann, and Jennifer Cockrall-King, for chef contacts and recipes Jay Ritchlin, Bill Wareham, Dominic Ali, and Scott Wallace of the David Suzuki Foundation; Taina Uitto of SeaChoice Canada; Susanna Fuller of the Ecology Action Centre, and Robert Campbell, for the information they provided about fish and sustainability Rob Sanders, Nancy Flight, and Lucy Kenward of Greystone Books, for bringing this book about Evan Pyle, for his interest and support my father, Doug Lambert, for his help and support my mother, Beverly Lambert, for taking me fishing my uncle, Sonny Nelson, for sharing his knowledge and his won- derful dinners. Thanks for all the great fish! a good catch 3 AGoodCatchInteriorFINAL.indd 3 9/12/08 3:36:40 PM
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