A day in Tuscany: more confessions of a Chianti tour guide PDF
Preview A day in Tuscany: more confessions of a Chianti tour guide
ADayinTuscany_Template:Layout 1 8/5/08 4:25 PM Page 1 $18.95/$23.75inCanada C a s t a g A D A Y I N T U S C A N Y n o w A D A Y I N T U S C A N Y i More Confessions of a Chianti Tour Guide t ADayinTuscanypicksupwhereDarioCastagno’s h R much-loved,best-sellingmemoirTooMuchTuscan o More Confessions of a Chianti Tour Guide Sunleavesoff—quiteliterallyastheamiabletour- d i guide-turned-author returns from his first ever PRAISE FOR DARIO CASTAGNO’S PREVIOUS BOOK, Americanbooktour.AsDariowakesupbackinhis TOO MUCH TUSCAN SUN belovedvillageafterthreehecticmonthsinthe UnitedStates,heseeshissurroundingswithfresh “Alight,engagingjauntintotheItaliancountryside,unfiltered A eyes and reacquaints himself with the rhythms byanoutsider’sprejudiceandromanticism.” ofhome:“ThedayafterIreturned...something DarioCastagnoisalocalchiantigianoaswellasa —NewYorkTimesBookReview D magicaloccurred,”hewrites.“AsIwanderedmy proudmemberoftheBruco(Caterpillar)contrada hometerritory,reconnectingwithfamiliarsights, in Siena. For more than a decade, he has been A sounds, aromas, and (especially) friends and guiding small groups of visitors to his favorite “Castagnodelivershislifestoryinsimple,honest,heartfelt Y neighbors, I began to realize just how rich my spotsintheChiantiregionofItaly.Inadditionto terms....[TooMuchTuscanSun]isbraincandytobeenjoyed lifehereis.” his Rooster Tours, he produces documentaries, withabottleofred.” I exportsextra-virginoliveoil,andworkswithRelais —PublishersWeekly AndsobeginshisdayinTuscany.Pastandpresent N Borgo Scopeto—a recently restored medieval mingleasDariotakesaleisurelystrollaroundhis hamlet—where he hosts his guests. This is his village,visitingwithfriendsandneighbors,always “Anuntintedversionofthisnowlegendaryland.” secondbook.Visitwww.TooMuchTuscanSun.com. T readytoacceptaglassofwineandsharestories— —BostonGlobe U ofhisgrowingupinTuscanyinthe1970sandhis adventuresasatourguide.Wemeetsomeofthe S moreremarkablepeoplehehasknown,including “Inbrief,easilydigestiblechapters,Castagnotellssomevery C the many locals he gently prods into telling funnystories...” tales of their lives and times. Funny, poignant, —SanFranciscoChronicle A intimate,authentic,andpeopledwitharichcast N of unforgettable characters, A Day in Tuscany is an enchanting mix of memories from life in JacketdesignbyLindaR.Loiewski Y JacketphotobyInmagine Tuscany’slegendaryChiantiregion—aplacewhere AuthorphotobyDorianTrifiro PrintedintheUnitedStatesofAmerica theeverydayisstillinfusedwithmagic. Dario Castagno with Robert Rodi P.O.Box480 Globe Guilford,CT06437 Pequot www.GlobePequot.com U P C ADayinTuscany_Template:Layout 1 8/5/08 4:25 PM Page 1 $18.95/$23.75inCanada C a s t a g A D A Y I N T U S C A N Y n o w A D A Y I N T U S C A N Y i More Confessions of a Chianti Tour Guide t ADayinTuscanypicksupwhereDarioCastagno’s h R much-loved,best-sellingmemoirTooMuchTuscan o More Confessions of a Chianti Tour Guide Sunleavesoff—quiteliterallyastheamiabletour- d i guide-turned-author returns from his first ever PRAISE FOR DARIO CASTAGNO’S PREVIOUS BOOK, Americanbooktour.AsDariowakesupbackinhis TOO MUCH TUSCAN SUN belovedvillageafterthreehecticmonthsinthe UnitedStates,heseeshissurroundingswithfresh “Alight,engagingjauntintotheItaliancountryside,unfiltered A eyes and reacquaints himself with the rhythms byanoutsider’sprejudiceandromanticism.” ofhome:“ThedayafterIreturned...something DarioCastagnoisalocalchiantigianoaswellasa —NewYorkTimesBookReview D magicaloccurred,”hewrites.“AsIwanderedmy proudmemberoftheBruco(Caterpillar)contrada hometerritory,reconnectingwithfamiliarsights, in Siena. For more than a decade, he has been A sounds, aromas, and (especially) friends and guiding small groups of visitors to his favorite “Castagnodelivershislifestoryinsimple,honest,heartfelt Y neighbors, I began to realize just how rich my spotsintheChiantiregionofItaly.Inadditionto terms....[TooMuchTuscanSun]isbraincandytobeenjoyed lifehereis.” his Rooster Tours, he produces documentaries, withabottleofred.” I exportsextra-virginoliveoil,andworkswithRelais —PublishersWeekly AndsobeginshisdayinTuscany.Pastandpresent N Borgo Scopeto—a recently restored medieval mingleasDariotakesaleisurelystrollaroundhis hamlet—where he hosts his guests. This is his village,visitingwithfriendsandneighbors,always “Anuntintedversionofthisnowlegendaryland.” secondbook.Visitwww.TooMuchTuscanSun.com. T readytoacceptaglassofwineandsharestories— —BostonGlobe U ofhisgrowingupinTuscanyinthe1970sandhis adventuresasatourguide.Wemeetsomeofthe S moreremarkablepeoplehehasknown,including “Inbrief,easilydigestiblechapters,Castagnotellssomevery C the many locals he gently prods into telling funnystories...” tales of their lives and times. Funny, poignant, —SanFranciscoChronicle A intimate,authentic,andpeopledwitharichcast N of unforgettable characters, A Day in Tuscany is an enchanting mix of memories from life in JacketdesignbyLindaR.Loiewski Y JacketphotobyInmagine Tuscany’slegendaryChiantiregion—aplacewhere AuthorphotobyDorianTrifiro PrintedintheUnitedStatesofAmerica theeverydayisstillinfusedwithmagic. Dario Castagno with Robert Rodi P.O.Box480 Globe Guilford,CT06437 Pequot www.GlobePequot.com U P C 00 DIT i-x.qxp 4/10/07 9:57 AM Page i A D A Y I N T U S C A N Y More Confessions of a Chianti Tour Guide Dario Castagno with Robert Rodi 00 DIT i-x.qxp 4/10/07 9:57 AM Page ii Copyright © 2007 by Dario Castagno and Robert Rodi All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic or mechani- cal, including photocopying and recording, or by any informa- tion storage and retrieval system, except as may be expressly permitted by the 1976 Copyright Act or by the publisher. Requests for permission should be made in writing to The Globe Pequot Press, P.O. Box 480, Guilford, Connecticut 06437. Text design by Lisa Reneson, www.twosistersdesign.com Cover design by Linda R. Loiewski Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available. ISBN-13: 978-0-7627-4456-5 Manufactured in the United States of America First Edition/First Printing 00 DIT i-x.qxp 4/10/07 9:57 AM Page iii C O N T E N T S Foreword . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ix 4:08 A.M. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 The Chianti Balloon Club . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 7:14 A.M. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Ciao, Inglese . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 8:03 A.M. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 La Ragazza del Palio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 9:49 A.M. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Why the Caterpillar? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 10:08 A.M. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Piera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 11:13 A.M. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 A Van for All Seasons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 11:47 A.M. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Remembering Monteaperti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 12:34 P.M. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 Full-Moon Stories . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 1:41 P.M. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 A Few Days Off . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 2:06 P.M. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 Dario the Fireman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 2:31 P.M. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 Meeting Andrea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 2:50 P.M. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117 Bruno Bonci, aka Caravaggio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 00 DIT i-x.qxp 4/10/07 9:57 AM Page iv 3:11 P.M. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129 Oh Lordy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 3:58 P.M. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 Tonio’s Last Story . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146 4:47 P.M. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 San Leonino Days . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154 5:12 P.M. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 The Maestro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171 5:48 P.M. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179 Gina and Clara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 6:27 P.M. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187 The Soccer Tournament . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187 7:37 P.M. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201 Matteo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203 Midnight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225 Ringraziamenti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227 About the Author . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229 00 DIT i-x.qxp 4/10/07 9:57 AM Page v Umor che dalla vite cola 00 DIT i-x.qxp 4/10/07 9:57 AM Page vi 00 DIT i-x.qxp 4/10/07 9:57 AM Page vii For Cristina whom I love 00 DIT i-x.qxp 4/10/07 9:57 AM Page viii
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