A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Age of Empire PDF
Preview A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Age of Empire
A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion General Editor: Susan Vincent Volume 1 A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in Antiquity Edited by Mary Harlow Volume 2 A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Medieval Age Edited by Sarah-Grace Heller Volume 3 A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Renaissance Edited by Elizabeth Currie Volume 4 A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Age of Enlightenment Edited by Peter McNeil Volume 5 A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Age of Empire Edited by Denise Amy Baxter Volume 6 A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Modern Age Edited by Alexandra Palmer i ii A CULTURAL HISTORY OF DRESS AND FASHION VOLUME 5 iii iv A CULTURAL HISTORY OF DRESS AND FASHION IN THE AGE OF EMPIRE Edited by Denise Amy Baxter Bloomsbury Academic An imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc LONDON • OXFORD • NEW YORK • NEW DELHI • SYDNEY v Bloomsbury Academic An imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc 50 Bedford Square 1385 Broadway London New York W C 1B 3 DP NY 10018 UK USA www.bloomsbury.com BLOOMSBURY and the Diana logo are trademarks of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc First published 2017 © Bloomsbury Publishing 2017 Denise Amy Baxter has asserted her right under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act, 1988, to be identifi ed as Editor of this work. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage or retrieval system, without prior permission in writing from the publishers. No responsibility for loss caused to any individual or organization acting on or refraining from action as a result of the material in this publication can be accepted by Bloomsbury or the author. British Library Cataloguing-i n-Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. ISBN : HB : 978-0-8578-5684-5 HB set: 978-1-4725-5749-0 Library of Congress Cataloging-i n-Publication Data A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. Cover design: Sharon Mah Cover image: Maximilian o Max Kurzweil (1867–1916), Lady in Yellow, 1889 (D EA /Getty Images) Typeset by Refi neCatch Limited, Bungay, Suffolk vi CONTENTS LI ST OF IL LLUSTRATIONS ix Introduction 1 Denise Amy Baxter 1 Textiles 9 Philip Sykas 2 Production and Distribution 35 Susan Hiner 3 The Body 59 Annette Becker 4 Belief 81 Denise Amy Baxter 5 Gender and Sexuality 99 Ariel Beaujot 6 Status 121 Vivienne Richmond 7 Ethnicity 141 Sarah Cheang 8 Visual Representations 165 Justine de Young 9 Literary Representations 189 Heidi Brevik-Zender N OTES 213 BI BLIOGRAPHY 241 N OTES ON CO NTRIBUTORS 259 IN DEX 261 vii viii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS INTRODUCTION 0.1 Promenade dresses from A ckermann’s Repository of Arts , vol. 5, no. 30, June 1, 1811, pl. 36. 2 0.2 Achille Devéria, Four o’clock in the evening from the H ours of the Day series, lithograph, c. 1829. 3 0.3 American cage crinoline, 1862, steel and cotton; British cage crinoline, c. 1862, metal and cotton. 5 0.4 Des dames d’un demi-m onde, mais n’ayant pas de demi- jupes , from Actualités , Honoré Daumier, published in L e Charivari , May 11, 1855. Lithograph. 6 CHAPTER 1 1.1 Photomicrograph (65× magnifi cation) of the reverse of a block-p rinted calico gown, 1780s. 11 1.2 Detail of a page from a warehouseman’s counterpart book showing samples of lappet muslins exported to Bombay in May 1822. 13 1.3 Detail of a printed valencia from Henry Cooke’s order book of 1821 showing cotton warp and worsted weft. 14 1.4 Gambroon registered by Ibotson & Walker in 1840, showing variegated color produced by plying together cotton and worsted yarns in alternate wefts. 16 1.5a Page from a pattern book showing machine-p rinted delaines, 1846, possibly from Broad Oak print works. 17 1.5b Fashion plate refl ecting French styles for large-s cale block printed delaines. La Belle Assemblée , July 1845. 18 1.6a Queen Victoria and Prince Albert wearing Lancashire silks. C arte-d e-visite photograph by John J.E. Mayall, February 1861. 20 1.6b Detail of a painted fl ounce design and corresponding woven silk of autumn 1860. Charles Hilton pattern books. 21 1.7 Purple print by Thomas Hoyle & Sons, from the J ournal of Design and Manufactures , 2 (Nov.), 1849, p. 108. 23 ix
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