400 Knitting Stitches Great Stitch Patterns

222 Pages·2007·25.55 MB·English

SS Y KNITTING
=o 11 TCHEs

GREAT STITCH PATTERNS
NOTE

To allow for diagrams to be as large and legible as possible,
only the stitches in the pattern repeat are shown in each chart,
with the exception of certain patterns where a particular

number of rows are necessary to establish the pattern
at the beginning and are never repeated.

The edge stitches and extra stitches required for symmetry
are detailed in the text accompanying each chart.

First published in French by
Editions MARIE CLAIRE in 2005
© 2005, Editions Marie Claire — Société d'Information
et de Créations — SIC

Art direction: Thierry Lamarre
Stitch research: Ludivine Mantel
Instructions: Danielle Dabarbiews

English translation: Georgina Bitcon
Photography: Studio VDM (studiovdm@voila f#)
Knitting consultant, Phildar Yarns: Nadine Lefebvre
Concept: Michel Stéfani
Design: Rampazzo & associés
Editorial assistant: Adeline Lobut

This edition published in 2007
by Murdoch Books Pty Limited
wwrwemurdochbooks.com.au

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Cover photography: Natasha Milne

English text copyright © Murdoch Books 2007

All rights reserved. No part of this publication
may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system
or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic,
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‘without the prior written permission of the publisher,

Notional Library of Australia
Cataloguing-in-Publication Data
400 knitting stitches,

ISBN 9781921208355 (pbk).
ISBN 1 921208 35 X (pbk).

1. Knitting, 746.432

Printed by Midas Printing (Asia) Ltd in 2007
PRINTED IN CHINA
4

Knitting basics

12

Knit-purl stitches

Crossed stitches and cables

140

Slipped stitches

224

Double stitches
Twisted stitches

Cast-off stitches

Fancy stitches

170

Lacy stitches

250

Symbols
KNITTING BASICS

INTERPRETING THE INSTRUCTIONS AND DIAGRAMS

ABBREVIATIONS

So that the patterns are accessible to
knitters of all abilities, we have only
used the abbreviations st (stitch), K
(knit) and P (pur).

ASTERISK

‘symbol in the shape of

a star * or open circle °

A set of instructions placed between
two asterisks or circles must be
repeated along the length of the row;
the number of stitches in the repeat
corresponds to the number of stitches
indicated for the pattern (for
diagrams, see under Chart, opposite)
Cutside these symbols are the stitches
added for symmetry, continuity,
selvages and so on. In certain cases, *
and ° are replaced by parentheses ()

ROW

A tow is the collection of stitches
joined along a single needle, The first
row is the one that is worked, or
knitted, after casting on. This first row,
and all the other odd-numbered rows,
are usually designated the right side of
the work, unless the pattern or
technique designates that the first row
is the wrong side.

UNDERSTANDING

A PATTERN

A pattern may seem difficult when you
try to follow it (or the diagram) for the
first time, But as you knit, the pattern
begins to make sense over a number
of rows. You soon start to do it auto:
matically, and practice makes perfect,

TENSION

Resolve at the outset to develop the
habits of a good knitter! A good
knitter studies the pattern, checks the
number of stitches and rows per
centimetre or inch and is thoroughly
prepared, In every case, itis vital that
you knit a tension square of at least
12cm (4¥/2in), so that you can ignore
the caston, castoff and side edges,
which knit up differently and do not
count in a tension square. You need to
add 8-10 stitches to the suggested
number in the tension advice. Count
the number of stitches between two
pins placed exactly 10cm (4in) apart,

and count the number of rows over
10cm (4in) exactly.

DIAGRAMS.

Each stitch pattern is presented in the
form of a grid of squares, in which each
square equals one stitch, and each line
of squares equals one row. The squares
contain different symbols, each of
which represents a particular way of
knitting a stitch. As well, each diagram
also contains the following information:
1. Numerals, on both right and left,
that indicate the number of rows in
the pattern repeat;

2 Chart (more explanation opposite)

Centimeter

SPH
3 Numerals below the chart that
indicate the number of stitches in the
pattern repeat;

4 An arrow at the first row to indicate
the right side of the work (the arrow is
on the right; this is the most usual
position, and the odd-row numbers
are on the right-hand side) or the
wrong side of the work (the arrow is
on the left, and the odd-row numbers
are on the left-hand side).

To read the chart, see below.

Chart

The chart defines, in height and width,
the precise number of stitches and
rows in a pattern repeat. Certain
charts show uneven edges, such as
those for staggered patterns.
Reading the chart

If you're knitting on two needles, that
is, back and forth, you read the chart,

CAST ON

“Cast on’ can refer either to the
stitches themselves on the needle, or
the technique of casting them on. In
each case, itis the starting point of the
work, The cast on forms the basis for
working the first row.

CAST-ON ROW

The cast-on row never counts in
calculations. The first row is always the
one that is worked after the cast on.

SIMPLE CAST ON

Make a slip knot in the end of a ball of
yatn and slide this loop onto one
needle. Holding this needle in your left
hand, and the yarn from the ball in
your right hand, continue making a
series of half-hitches using the needle
and your thumb and slipping these

in the majority of cases, as follows
‘+ From right to left for each odd row
(right side of work);

‘ From left to right for each even row
(wrong side of work)

Certain patterns, however, are worked
With the first row on the wrong side. In
this case, you read the chart as
follows:

+ From left to right for each odd row
(wrong side of work);

‘* From right to left for each even row
(right side of work),

If you're knitting in the round on a
circular needle or a set of double-
pointed needles, you are always
working on the right side, Therefore,
you read the chart from right to left
for each row.

To. understand
symbols, below.

the symbols, see

CASTING ON STITCHES.

ARBRE.

Cth He

conto the left needle (see photograph)
Until you have the desired number of
stitches,

Symbols

Each diagram represents the right side
of the pattern. This enables you to
visualize the finished pattern and
allow for the precise placement of
stitches and the symmetry of motifs,
and to plan for continuity of pattern
repeats across seams (see Symmetry
and Continuity, page 10)

However, you also need to be aware
that a symbol that represents one
‘thing on the right side of the work can
represent something entirely different
‘on the wrong side of the work

For example, the symbol for a knit
stitch on the right side of the work [1]
is also the symbol for a pur stitch on
the wrong side of the work. All the
symbols used in this collection are
repeated on page 250, and each is
‘accompanied by an explanatory key.
CAST ON

WITH ONE NEEDLE

From a ball of yarn, unravel a length
that is approximately 3 times the
required finished length of your
knitting (about 2m/2yd for a jumper)
Make a slip knot at this point and put

it onto the needle; this is the first

stitch, You now have yarn on each side
of the needle: the short end in your
right hand, the longer end in your left

‘* Make a large loop around your right
index finger.

* Insert the tip of the needle into this
loop without removing your finger,

‘= Wrap the yarn in your left hand
around the needle.

+ Pass the loop over the point of the
needle, then gently remove your index
finger.

* Pull the two threads gently to form
the stitch,

‘© Continue in this manner until you
have the required number of stitches
Take care to pull the yarn evenly so
that your cast-on edge has an even
tension.

Note that the methods described
above are only one way of holding the
needles and yarn when casting on; if
you find that another method is easier
for you, that is the method that you
should use.
STITCH

Each stitch consists of two sections: the
thread at the front of the needle, and
the thread at the back of the needle.

Stitches can be knitted, purled, slipped,
lengthened, crossed, twisted and cast
off to form a pattern.

EDGE STITCH

The edge stitches are the first and last
stitch of each row, forming the selvages
of a piece of work, They do not form
part of the pattern and are usually
stitched into the seam of finished
garments. in this book, the edge stitch
is designated K1 (edge), even though it
might not be a knit row. You can knit or
purl the edge stitches as you wish

KNIT

With the yarn behind the right needle,
insert that needle from left to right into
the first stitch on the left needle,
between the two threads of the stitch

THE STITCHES

Take the yarn from back to front, under
then over, the right needle, Draw the yarn
back through the stitch, forming a loop
con the right needle fig A), then slip the
origina stitch off the left needle (fg 8).

KNIT THROUGH BACK

OF LOOP

This will cause the stitch to twist. with
the yarn behind the right needle,
insert the right needle from right to
left into the back of the first stitch on
the left needle, between the two
threads of that stitch. Take the yarn
from back to front, under then over,
the right needle (fig A). Draw the yarn
back through the stitch, forming a
oop on the right needle, then slip the
original stitch off the left needle (fig B)

PURL

With the yam in front of the right
needle, insert that needle from right to
left into the first stitch on the left
needle, between the two threads of
that stitch, Take the yarn back over, then
Under, the right needle (fig A). Draw the
yarn back through the stitch, forming a
loop on the right needle (fig B), then slip
the original stitch off the left needle,

PURL THROUGH BACK

OF LOOP

This will cause the stitch to twist. With
the yarn in front of the right needle,
insert the right needle from left to
right into the back of the first stitch on
the left needle. Bringing the needle
back into the normal purl position,
which will twist the stitch (fig A), take
the yam back over, then under, the
right needle, Draw the yarn back
through the stitch, forming a loop on
the right needle (fig 8), then slip the
original stitch off the left needle

SLIP STITCH KNITWISE
Insert the right needle from left to
Tight into the first stitch on the left
needle a though to knit it, Then
simply slip the stitch onto the right
needle without knitting it

SLIP STITCH PURLWISE

Insert the right needle from right to left
into the fist stitch on the left needle as
though to purl it. Then slip the stitch
onto the right needle without working it.

ALTERNATING STITCHES
An alternating stitch is one that you
knit when it presents as a purl stitch,
and purl when it presents as a knit
stitch. For example, in moss stitch, each
stitch alternates in every row. On the
other hand, it is exactly the opposite
with, say, a classic 1/1 or 2/2 rib, where,
‘once the fist row is established, you
work every subsequent stitch in the
manner that it presents. The instruction
to alternate stitches is used in the
instructions where possible, to shorten
and simplify a pattern,

TWISTED STITCHES

(or work through back of loop)
‘When you knit into the back of a stitch,
ithas the effect of twisting the stiteh. In
certain patterns, twisting the stitch in
this manner prevents a hole from
appearing in the work

DROPPED STITCH

Using either a needle or, even better, a
crochet hook, and working from the
front on knit fabric (fig A), or from
behind on purl fabric (fig 8), insert the
hook into the loop of the dropped

stitch, then draw the horizontal thread
above it through the loop. Continue in
this way until all the dropped rows have
been picked up, then replace the stitch
con the left needle, taking care not to
‘twist itthe wrong way. if you do twist it
the wrong way, either replace it the
correct way on the needle, or work into
the back of it to untwist it

CASTING OFF

A row of cast-off stitches finishes a
piece of knitting, There are a number
of different ways of casting off, and if
making @ garment, it is particularly
important to choose a method that
will retain the elasticity of a collar, cuff
‘or hem, We recommend using the
first of the methods below, as the
cast-off edge produced remains
elastic. Always test your cast-off edge
after a few centimetres or inches; it
should stretch almost as much as the
rest of the knitting

ELASTIC CAST OFF

Work two stitches, then lift the first
stitch over the second, but keep it on
the left needle, Work the next stitch,
slipping both this stitch and the cast-off
stitch from the left needle at the same
time. Work along the row in this
manner. Fig A shows a knitwise cast off;
fig B shows purtwise,

BASIC CAST OFF

To cast off a stitch, insert the left needle
into the second stitch from the edge on
‘the right needle and lift it over the fist
stitch. Follow exactly the same
procedure to cast off a stitch purlwise
To cast off several stitches, repeat this
procedure as many times as necessary
Be judicious about using this type of cast
off, as it produces a very inelastic edge
that is unsuitable for cuffs, hems and
collars of garments, al of which need
to stretch
STANDARD CAST OFF

Work two stitches, then lift the first
stitch over the second and drop it off
the needle. One stitch remains on the
right needle. Work another stitch and
lift the first stitch over it. Take care to
cast off in pattern; that is, in the
manner in which the stitches present:
knitwise or purlwise. Thus, if casting off
in rib, cast off the knit stitches knitwise
and the purl stitches and purtwise.
However, to cast off in pattern for moss
stitch, cast off the knit stitches purlwise
and the purl stitches knitwise

PATTERNS.
AND
TECHNIQUES

PATTERN NAMES

The stitch patterns are mostly named
for how they look, or how they are
worked. Several patterns, however,
have ancient names that have been
given to them over centuries of
knitting tradition

FAMILIES OF PATTERNS

Basic patterns or fancy patterns, plain
or lacy, smooth or raised, simple or
spectacular, quick or complicated,
patterns that you already know, oF
patterns that you are just discovering —
all are the result of a collection of
stitches worked in a certain way, oF
another, repeated row after row. And it

is generally the way in which the
stitches are worked that has informed
‘our choice when grouping the patterns
into families for presenting in this book

DIFFICULTY

The degiee of difficulty of 2 pattern
doesn't depend only on the number of
rows needed to complete the pattern,
but rather, on the number of rows that
differ from each other. It also depends
on the degree of difficulty of particular
techniques. Also, certain patterns that
are for the most part easy can become
more difficult when it comes to
increasing or decreasing. Choose
carefully, and always knit a test square
fitst, to enable you to work out the
pattern and become familiar with it.

RIGHT SIDE, WRONG SIDE
Certain stitch patterns are similar on
both the right and wrong sides (for
example, garter stitch, moss stitch,
checks, English rib etc), but despite this
identical appearance on the general
surface of the knitting, you shouldn't
forget that the right and left edges of a
piece can be different. There can also
be an apparent shift in the rows (for
example, the last row of garter stitch
looks knitted on the right side, but
‘appears purled on the wrong side), or a
difference near the edges (for example,
in an English rib (discounting the edge
stitches), the first and last stitches of the
row are, on the right side, raised knit
stitches, but they will present on the
wrong side as troughs and in purl. In
fact, most stitch patterns on the wrong
side are totally different to the right
side, but sometimes they are just as
nice, or indeed, even preferable,

DIAGONALS
Al the diagonal patterns presented in
this collection have instructions for

both right and left directions. Even if
this might seem superfluous to
experienced knitters, many others will
doubtless find it very useful, and much
easier to visualize and work opposite
diagonals (for example, for the two
fronts of a cardigan, or to obtain a V
effect with the point at the top or
bottom on a single piece of work, such
‘as a back, front or sleeve)

EFFECTS

With a single pattern you can obtain
different effects simply by varying the
nature of the yarn (classic, fluffy,
bouclé, kinked, metallic ete), the
actual thickness of the yarn, and even
the colour Give free rein to your
imagination and be creative.

INTERRUPTING A ROW

It is preferable not to interrupt your
knitting in the middle of a row,
because it can produce a slight ‘fault
line’ caused by stitches slackening
while the work is laid aside.
Furthermore, if you're a beginner, you
might start again in the wrong
direction or at the wrong place. If the
interruption is unavoidable (such as
the telephone), keep a little marker
handy (a pin or sticky label) that will
enable you to quickly find which side
(right or wrong) of the work you
should be on. And remember that
Whenever you interrupt your work (at
the end of a row or in the middle), if
you'te working on a pattern that you
don't know by heart, make a note of
‘the number of the last row completed.

PATTERN REPEATS

Number of stitches

‘Containing a given number several
times exactly’; this definition perfectly
sums up the meaning of the phrase
‘that you'll find at the beginning of the
instructions for each pattern, In effect,
each complete stitch pattern consists
of a set of motifs that are made up of a
certain number of stitches, worked in a
certain way, and which are repeated
along the length of the row. The
number of stitches in a repeat varies
enormously: 1 stitch (for example,
garter and stocking stitch); 2 stitches
(for example, moss and double moss
stitch), 4 stitches (for example, 2/2 rib)
and so on, up to 30 stitches and more.
The number of stitches requited for the
pattern is indicated, as well as the
number extra required for symmetry or
matching up (continuity), plus the edge
stitches (left and right). It is easy to
work out exactly the number of stitches
to cast on when you need to adapt a
stitch pattern for your own needs
Example: You've chosen a pattern for
Which the number of stitches required
for symmetry is a multiple of 3 + 2 sts,
+ 1 edge stitch on each side

You want to cast on 131 stitches
(48.Scm/191V4 in x 2.7 stitches per cm
16% stitches per in). Subtract from
this number the 2 stitches allowed for
symmetry and the 2 allowed for edge
stitches. So you have: 131 stitches 4
stitches = 127 stitches
127 stitches by the number 3, which
equals 42 pattern repeats, plus 1
stitch. For an exact number of pattern
repeats, you must therefore cast on
126 stitches (instead of 127 stitches) +
4 stitches = 130 stitches.

Now divide

Note: You will sometimes find in other
pattems (in books or magazines) the
expression: ‘Number of
divisible by ...". This expression means
the same thing, since you need to
divide the total number of stitches by
the number of stitches in a pattern
repeat to check that the total number
of stitches contains an exact number
pattern repeats

stitches

SYMMETRY

See ‘For symmetry, work on a multiple
of. sts! at the beginning of each
pattern

Except where it's impossible (such as for
diagonals), the instructions for each
pattern are always presented in a
symmetrical form. That means that you
finish each row in the same way that
you began, but in reverse order. When
the symmetry is perfect, the middle of
the row comprises a central motif with
‘an equal number of repeated motifs on
‘each side, This makes it easier to centre
the pattern on each section of a
garment, as well as allow for matching
patterns across seams

CONTINUITY

Wherever possible, a pattern is
presented in a way that allows for
seams to be matched up to give pattern
continuity

In these cases, the pattern motif is
complete within the repeat, whether it
be a pattern with symmetry (@ rib or
fancy stitch) or without symmetry (such
asa diagonal)

If continuity isn’t indicated in the
instructions at the same time as the
symmetry, you will need to plan to
modify the number of stitches of the
second piece in order to join it to the
first (for example, a back and front)
with pattern continuity. (This is also the
case for ribbing.)

In cases where a single stitch has been
added to maintain symmetry, the
continuity can be perfect with seam
allowances of one-and-a-half stitches,
instead of one (although sometimes, it
will look better to take 1 stitch on one
side and 2 stitches on the other)

YARN OVER (INCREASE)
‘Yarn over’ is the general term used to
describe winding the yarn under or

over the right needle before working
the next stitch
number of stitches by one every time
itis worked. It will not add a stitch if
the increase is negated by a
decrease, made invisibly somewhere
in the work, or in the stitch adjacent
to the increase, In any case, the
function of the yarn-over increase is
decorative, whether it is used to
make a lacy hole or, when it is passed
over several stitches, to form a
decorative link, There are several
different methods of executing ‘yarn
over

“Yarn over’ knitwise after a knit

Ht will increase the

stitch (yarn is at back of work)
Before a knit stitch: Bring the yarn
from back to front, under the right
needle (as if to purl), then take it
back over the top of the right needle
into the knit position. Knit the next
stitch as normal (fig A). This is called
‘yarn forward’

Before a purl stitch: Bring the yarn to
the front, under the needle (as if to
purl), then take it back over the top
of the right needle, then under to the
front again (into the purl position),
making a complete loop of the
needle, Purl the next stitch as normal
(fig B). This is called ‘yarn round
needle’

"Yarn over’ knitwise after a purl
stitch (yarn is at front of work)
Before a knit stitch: Simply take the
yarn over the right needle (not
under) from front to back. Knit the
next stitch as normal (fig C). This is
called ‘yarn over needle’.

Before a purl stitch: Take yarn back
over right needle, then bring it
forward under right needle (as if to
purl), making a complete loop of the
needle. Purl the next stitch as normal
(fig D). This is called ‘yarn round
needle’