1,000 Foods to Eat Before You Die

1009 Pages·2015·38.882 MB·English

by  Sheraton, Mimi

Praise for 1,000 Foods to Eat Before You Die
“Mimi Sheraton was one of the few critics or writers on food who,
had she expressed displeasure with me, would have caused me to
consider quitting the business. As a chef, I feared and respected her.
As a writer and observer and enthusiast—as someone who travels
largely on his stomach—I can tell you that what Mimi doesn’t know
is hardly worth knowing. This fat, comprehensive guide to the 1,000
foods to eat before dying is just that: 1,000 foods you NEED to try,
urgently. Read . . . and seek.”
—Anthony BourdAin, author, host, enthusiast
“There is no one more authoritative than Mimi Sheraton to help you
discover 1,000 Foods to Eat Before You Die. And that’s because
she has actually eaten each and every one of them with gusto,
and with one of the world’s most discerning and educated palates.
This book may just become my go-to source for new menu ideas
at our restaurants!”
—dAnny Meyer, restaurateur and author of
Setting the table: the tranSforming Power of hoSPitality in buSineSS
“We are forever grateful to the incomparable Mimi Sheraton for
her knowledge and certainty as a journalist and critic.”
—thoMAs Keller, chef/proprietor of the french Laundry
“Few people in the world have the experience that Mimi Sheraton
brings to the subject of food. I’ll be spending the rest of my days
knocking off dish by dish in 1,000 Foods to Eat Before You Die.”
—BoBBy FlAy, chef, restaurateur
“Informative, evocative, and entertaining. It’s a pleasure to check
off the foods you’ve eaten and to plan to try the ones you
haven’t yet enjoyed.”
—MArcus sAMuelsson, cookbook author, chef, owner of red rooster harLem
“I’m in awe of Mimi’s ability to compile such a beautiful and
insightful book, again proving why she is one of the most important
food writers of our time. This book is a gift to all food lovers,
a thorough, delicious guide to the best dishes and ingredients
around the globe.”
—dAniel huMM, chef/owner, eLeven madison park and the nomad
“If you love food, this is a book to read before you die! Mimi
Sheraton’s knowledge of the world’s foods is legendary, as is
the sharpness of her opinions. On nearly every page of 1,000 Foods
to Eat Before You Die, I’ve learned something new or honed my own
judgment on hers. And with its links to sources and resources
all over the world, I’ll be dining in and out on it for years to come.”
—hArold McGee, author of on food and Cooking:
the SCienCe and lore of the kitChen and keyS to good Cooking:
a guide to making the beSt of food and reCiPeS
“Who else would you trust on topics ranging from English jellied
eel to hokey pokey ice cream from New Zealand and everything in
between? Only the well-seasoned Mimi Sheraton.”
—GrAnt AchAtz, chef/co-owner of aLinea, next, the aviary
“Mimi Sheraton has always reminded us that eating is an activity
as much of the imagination as of the palate and the tongue. In
1,000 Foods to Eat Before You Die, she reaps the rich harvest of her
prodigious gifts of endless curiosity, lightly worn knowledge, and
elegance of style. She has provided us with a feast to be tasted and
savored with the greatest pleasure.”
—MAry Gordon, author of the liar’S wife and final PaymentS
“This book reads like a map to many of the great food
experiences the world has to offer. A valuable addition to
any food library.”
—eric ripert, chef, Le bernardin,
author of aveC eriC: a Culinary Journey with eriC riPert
“Gargantuan in its appetite and encyclopedic in its scope,
this is the most comprehensive book ever written on the great
foods of the world. The book every food writer dreams of writing.
A tour de force.”
—steven rAichlen, author of the barbeCue! bible cookbooks
and host of Primal grill
“Mimi Sheraton has written the definitive international guide for food
lovers. Each page is filled with culinary treasures and surprises,
presented in an engaging and entertaining manner. Reading and
dining pleasure awaits you!”
—drew nieporent, restaurateur, tribeca GriLL, nobu, bâtard
“To this non-foodie, 1,000 Foods to Eat Before You Die was a
revelation—perhaps the most useful travel guide on my shelf.
I’m heading to Marrakesh for tagine right now.”
—Andrew MccArthy, traveL writer, actor, director
“Mimi Sheraton is a national treasure. Her knowledge of
food can’t be beat—if anyone knows the 1,000 foods of a lifetime,
it’s Mimi.”
—dAniel Boulud, chef, restaurant danieL, new york city

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A Food Lover’s Life List
Mimi Sheraton
with Kelly Alexander
WORKMAN PUBLISHING, NEW YORK
Copyright © 2014 by Mimi Sheraton
All rights reserved. No portion of this book may be reproduced—
mechanically, electronically, or by any other means, including
photocopying—without written permission of the publisher.
Published simultaneously in Canada by Thomas Allen & Son Limited.
1,000 . . . BEFORE YOU DIE is a registered trademark of
Workman Publishing Co., Inc.
1,000 FOODS TO EAT BEFORE YOU DIE
is a trademark of Workman Publishing Co., Inc.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available.
ISBNs: 978-0-7611-4168-6 (pb); 978-0-7611-8554-3 (hc)
Design by Janet Vicario
and Orlando Adiao
Photo research by Bobby Walsh,
Melissa Lucier, and Jenna Bascom
Photo credits appear on pages 987–990.
Workman books are available at special discounts when
purchased in bulk for premiums and sales promotions
as well as or fund-raising or educational use.
Special editions or book excerpts can also be created to
specification. For details, contact the Special Sales Director
at the address below, or send an email to
[email protected].
Workman Publishing Company, Inc.
225 Varick Street
New York, NY 10014-4381
workman.com
WORKMAN is a registered trademark
of Workman Publishing Co., Inc.
Printed in the United States of America
First printing December 2014
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
“The joys of the table belong equally
to all ages, conditions, countries, and times;
they mix with all other pleasures, and remain
the last to console us for their loss.”
–jean anthelme brillat-savarin
Dedication
To my sonR, Marc Falcone,
my daughter-in-law, Caitlin Halligan,
and my granddaughter, Anna Falcone,
with love and gratitude for their support,
companionship, and affection,
and for the joys they always bring.
And to the memory of our adored
Richard Falcone, the husband, father,
father-in-law, and grandfather whom we
shall always love and miss.
Acknowledgments
In a work of this size that took so many years to complete, it should be no surprise
R
that there is a very long of list of wonderful people to whom I am indebted for
their insights, expertise, willingness to help, and, perhaps most of all, friendship.
During my sixty years as a food writer, I I know I was spared much embarrassment
have worked with many fine publishers, but by the work of Caitlin McEwan and Kelly
never with one so patient, dedicated, coopera- Rummel, who did diligence as fact checkers, and
tive, and helpful as Workman Publishing. Savannah Ashour, who line-edited the book.
Primary credit for that goes to the company’s I am grateful also to Workman’s art depart-
founder, Peter Workman, who agreed to do this ment. That so many divergent entries appear so
book and who believed in it enough to never attractively and functionally is due to the efforts
even hint at pulling the plug after one deadline of many, beginning with the combined talents
gave way to another. His commitment to quality of Janet Vicario, the art director, and Orlando
books and the integrity he brought to publishing Adiao, the book’s designer. Bringing it all to a
permeates the company he left behind. I shall coherent pass was the meticulous work of the
always regret that he did not live to see this production editor, Kate Karol, assisted by Jessica
come to fruition and I hope he would have Rozler, as well as the production manager, Doug
thought it all worth the wait. Wolff, not to forget the intricacies of the typeset-
My first entry into Workman came via its ting process overseen by Barbara Peragine.
affable executive editor, Suzanne Rafer, who Entries would not appear so clear and
continued to guide, cajole, and encourage as intriguing without the photographs ingeniously
work progressed. Similarly, Suzie Bolotin, edito- unearthed by Anne Kerman’s expert photo
rial director, also never nagged or threatened research team, including Bobby Walsh, Melissa
me but always kept an overall eye as material Lucier, and Jenna Bascom. I thank Rachael Mt.
went through, making valuable suggestions that Pleasant and Caitlin McEwan for their help with
I sometimes even took. Above all, the most the captions.
noble work was done by Margot Herrera, the Also, for getting the word out by publicizing
saintly editor in charge of this project. With her the book, I offer my deepest appreciation to
unerring eye for detail and her insistence on Workman’s director of publicity, Selina Meere,
accuracy, she bore the brunt of outbursts and and Noreen Herits, executive publicist.
exasperations from one who loathes details and That this work ever was completed at all is
the nitty-gritty. Margot never once lost her tem- due to the dedicated, invaluable help of two
per, even as I so often lost mine. friends and colleagues: Kelly Alexander and
I am also forever indebted to Heather Megan Peck.
Schwedel, who was always at the other end of an Kelly Alexander of Chapel Hill, NC, is her-
email to straighten out my confusions in schedul- self an accomplished food writer who, with
ing, organization, and to guide me safely when- Cynthia Harris, coauthored Hometown Appetites:
ever I was lost in cyberspace, which was often. The Story of Clementine Paddleford, the Forgotten