100 Years of Fashion Illustration

386 Pages·2007·55.02 MB·English

by  Cally Blackman

(adly § Cackman

100 Years of Fashion
Illustration
100 Years of Fashion
Illustration

Cally Blackman,

Laurence King Pubilshing

CONTENTS

Introduction 6
1900-1924 8
1925-1949 70
1950-1974 166

1975 and beyond 258
Further reading 379
List of illustrators 380
Index 382

Picture credits &
acknowledgements 384
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‘Ge history of sten steven begins im the seenth contary.
‘when sncteasea explosion ed discovery fed Ap ascinatina with
Ue dees sae, costinne a ue nations of ke vod, He=vcea U2 aad
610 tore Ut 360 sellec-oms ef engravings, etchings or wrodetts
iene p-blistua wusiaeang alsves of figues searing eothes >is
ve covdzuloenity antl cucke ne w the most Samora: af chee, Cesare

‘ell De labile rt eae par mo (1892,
ouusied 420 wooderts depleting dress fem Zarape, Turkey ane the
rier. The econ ection, published in 1, ceeded des frm
ANIL ed Asis as 4520 plates ca New World dress For cents
ac ise Rad sf course dupit of codes, Pal Une ety woadeurs ere
(We list Gudicated aman of dress ane, as such. eceme the
protoype forse Mustration a: we ke eda,

Wencestzes Holln's ngreviags af mid seventeen "hewilur
‘angie tesbiens contiaund the gente a fem “he 16205 Gavan
_tourets hogan fee pubviehee ~arrienlanyin rane,
bene esabshed as rhe cant af asian scaler the Aten

of Louis NIV that coud > ealed te tst ston marines
fe Meer eink 1802, revarsgat In 1878 as 2 Neate! Minas sy
contained captions Eksstrarions of shina, ca

or suppliers. Feench fashion plates,

eee sane ego

Plcert, among arhers, asaate the sara oH

shall anagts wets
‘edged, Tae powlferarion of pevinrals, nee antlers
luring she secant halfefthe cightoeneh cermiy wig a wes

‘ean inecersingly lined, orm cvrt ae all tan, female
renders aoge for cue atest news of Lshios. Caples exe pasts!
soured cd shaved, wie fur wore auaten, cuth ce asbire Johneen,
Tosaga league gains 0 cute sempooes wilh ube

seocinpa ied iy sap a lle oul vasur of pancnes,
Tow ist be Hace sure leh y Jue secu a
se seat aie ed ton of plates such as Uns ne
ote snes 77) le Caine des mes (1789) ad ee oes
ausuenel F758 Stig of deve place were yubbseid in ook
aur lodes e In esU Rl #8 mkecssicy Ay Use Reveuion ground
sense a rullural al, Gutabiay Ka & daw besanc de eeu
ot ‘a78€-2224) bei
Fae beckon Jason sublics jon, ka Bushing, Heklelell's exeesive
eyo Gaston (74) od the weed. Le Hote lembe 1808 sed
Sekormamn’s Kezentor?siie is, tema: Comes, Renee
En aa Pies (1809-28) yore matadle courcele ot Tae sary
:neteomuh century: The later, a te Ble mgaests, war a poner
scleveel auugidine that inchucedfashien, hosalding those that
loose such afeavare af arr incteenth-cemtary lit, From mi
jen onvanc, Hezce was ence again establised as the connec

Sige, 1c ara Cae UB
of te Hashlousbe world, and se he standard fo fesbon alustation,
otal inthe sro Une alented Con family in plications

etl (1825), enrol des dries EY and 1a Meds
(850,
"nog 04 story nay artiste ave shown a fessination
‘with civss: Nes, Holboin, Watteam sid Ingres all xzcuted exis
Avaivings of the Zasions oftheir time. Monet's Wome Joa Gant
of 18GF. in hich al our Lzurcs axe modell by his istess,
Camille, belzays a lat. isjiniea quality thatcan be arruted 10 the
snlence of fashion plates of the period. Photography, ave of the pital
Snveriuns wf he ninsteench consury, wos generally held response
{se demise uf lustration by the Second World War, ri ton as
Jnlence iy fasion illustration, 25s demonstzaed in early examples
by die tit poses against studio prop backgrounds that mimie those
sn coaempuriry plates. Even an svancgerde phatngrapher sch a¢
Edward Sieichen filed to wiv as much impact ta Poet's early designs
‘Ute innovative lustrator Inbe end Le>ape,

By Le 1960s lusion editors were investing move of their budgers
Jr ediusial spreads in photography. Tae subsequent promotion of the
fashion photograper to colobvsy status meant that illustrators al
tobe contear with woskisg on articles fr Tingetie o accessories, oi
averting carypaigns such a8 those Res! Grau did for Csi Dior
perfumes. The sbeies and sewes wove Tean ties fai usiaters bul
‘the sighries sa che egianings of arenassance thar eines toy
renaissance that has bven augmented by the secessihy
(oF cemparer tecsrology.

Fashion illusrarion and fashion photng-aphy ave twa disse
isciptines, Although fashion phoregraphors have continually posed
‘he boundaries nfereasiviny and possi
recon what i ee, is

thes can do no mate tht

ators, an the other Hand, Have the poser
to selector emphasize a pomiculaefeacure: ra prose figure oer
farment, 0 garmens ovr gue; fo Tenlate a mood, an atesphers,
‘vith humour or emotion, while thelr abity to communicate
designer's ideas has often fed toa close working relationship,

Anal f course they Ie the ability Wo invent

‘espe ils integel pel ia tke esemination of fasion,

acknosecye since Baeise’s neve ~ lve waederer zou Ue
iy Wolke the suvels otineleentIseentuy Pao as the uldanste
somo! of nedetnity. aul despite the feet list any well
arts awe reflect is cultural zal aes porwe in their ork,
‘fashion luseation has afer beet dismissed as iva, a a best,

a Cinulvela” a4 ali beset line ad commercial x, as oy
recently been revaluated a a siguifcant yer ie its uw right, ons

‘ha was wo week new heights of sophistication anu aesttetic beauty
In she webct ee.

Inmopuction
1900 — 24

“Betwoon 1909 and 1929 an
‘oxplosion of miracles destroyed
the old world and made way
forthe nev...” dancin 5

Ataideuty ake Binnmtiasi te

= 00-26

In 19m, when the new eenty dawened. Hoth fashion iusto
and fashion design ist? Ieoked barks 70 the styles of (epson
‘century rather than forward ma vision af the forte Clothing Usa
‘expressed the apulercef the age, vows bythe fasvonablesessieralic
and wealthy alte of Furopeand North America, wes infried more
by the sinuous aesthetic af che Are Nomen tye, eaneeived in tae
3600s, than by any hint of mocernity Ihe Eishlonable weanen, mature
Is aspect, wss syathed in lace, fills and loxnees, accessorize with
fecther boas and picture hats festooned will bilo paradise plumes
or owes, and widerpinued by complicated layers of underwean,
iselusing the ungainly Shenk! corset, Men sll alhere wo sick codes
adres, regulated by axcupatin cack, soci wevasion aml me of day.

Asawa in high soviey ves sige stats Lavi
expendinine an elhes epitomize he culcuse of eouspiewous
oasurgptin assoeated ch the the aie, Waly one
parvoa'zed the growls couvirs of Pati, sue 8 Calo Sueuns, Doves,
ogni and Wath. Im Loniton ty patra! Luvile sad bout ele
failormades ftom langestablished firms such a Roles ad Creed,
hei susan wee dices by Loon tls whose avpulation,
for immacslate curing in bigh qvalty cloth vas wmrvalled,

the less yellow bonssted from the encrmoxe advances made
inthe previous censuty by the textsle and clothing manutzctring
industries, Ready made o: vom nile cloning was widely available
jn the deparLnent stores tha tad sprang up in all major sows
tnd cies since the fest quarter af tae nineteenck eencury. Mery
owen employed a dressier or made chee own doves: he
foresuic aud bighly detuiled fashion sstrztios ofthe time enabled
‘lumesie aad profesiunal dessmslers to copy the latest Assigns. 5
patterns were included in stayaznes aimed st this middle marker,
sel an Wen’ Leura 1879), while Buberick, with Branches in

nad pblisted milonderpacterns since

1865, Tk Cissemination of Lsionsble styles through the numercus
soaaines and newspapers aimed at consumers gave evesjone the
opportunity Cut the means, wo engage im he pursait of Sshion.

‘sly twontieth-cenquryfeshion ustation was as ceschetically
‘moribund as lashionisself~ seatucsque Teodels pased stil against
fussy soudia backgrounds, fon fame by ofmate arrangements
foliage, knows in the trade as'spinach. ustrarors working fr
bighfishion magazines such as American Vigus 1892). Main’ car
(0860) and, in Britain, The Quan [1861] adhered ro the wellvarn
leadition of depicting dessin minute. often pedancc, det, though
the work of dol? Sandoz and Charles Deion represents notable
exceptions. In the Uited States, Charles Oars Gibson's ies
‘ustrations (rather sts dedicated fashion slares established i
“Gibgon Gin ass fasion icon Sor mociem young some,

Tonio, Pais wad New
TTaatioluied engrave pices were replaced atthe end
tthe aineceent sentry By Faken rings ras the ay
‘enti coating, phorogaphy began w makesnappenciaee

In omaaaines. 17 as Paul 1oirer, he most exeitg ant inaveve

fasluon designer af the piewaryears who elevsts both fashion
anal epesentation ta the sms of am and injoed hen ya

Aatynapnsn) that made them new ane signfeant forces in rhe

twentieth cents
Porer estate his pn courte
caneerin the prewre years coincided wth adien! new directions
fn artzcross earope and Desonei sn 1905 Les Funes exhibited ac
aris Salon dAutomnes in 1907 Picasso's epourutalng psig Ls
Desnaleaivizwn berlile. Ue aves of Cabin: and he Gens
expressions de lian buluats snd he Russian Consticivits
explored new concepts und ideologies through art, Pasion is. 9
definition, moder, sit could not bul zespeond Uw these games es

sen 193,24 his

Smppulses, and during the eal yeas of the twentieth entry the

Snterfce between fashion, atau design was inexeesinyly refoceee
‘when Senge Diaher’s Dallels Rosves. use 1908 procction

et ype fearing exoli sels al costes by 16 Boks, exploded

the Parisi stage ia us areay uf dealing Colossi aa awl.
fashion was quick lu respond. Te pestel sides ot Une fle Hyse
‘were set aside in fivour ota evr palete of brillians fes overlaid with
silva gold, Poise designs tor cveningywearrellectes the oriental
influence: harem srousers worn uncer tunics were accessorized with
Tam¢ tovhans deonraced sth feathers ane jewels, tabula, re
‘sweamtined sheuette, the Dice sve, was developed by many
Aesiquors: high, boncd coins were replace by low ¥ nelines
lavishly same pierre has gave wa to simpler styles such as Ube
rq: andFosgy Fils and furelones ee abandons

a master salesman. but perhaps bis preatet gilt was
san impresario, linking the worlds of fasion ané arcky bringing

se tales of young ars into his enterprise, Raoul Dt, (or
sxample, designed printed textiles for Poiret’s atelier, Recon,
‘has his redial designs needed a new form of representation, i 2908
Poirec commissioned Poul sbe to iluscate a promodianal publican,
2s Kober dee Tote [ibe broke nev ground by inicwdueing Lyurs,
soutein llEprofleo, even in back ie, against skeschy menesceme
behets 1977 Poitet commissioned Georges Lepepe to ilostrate
has seca Druelone, les Chases Fat Piet. Both these albums,
‘slated on high-qality popes in Tmited editions, used the poctcit
‘net wf printing fe the plates. This pracess,haseé ox Japanese
techies efi by Joan Sand inesled creating asset fer each
layer ul elo, sic was then applied ty hand; sometimes thirey
slages were nsec a aleve ce fessess oF che original Mustration,

Wwo0-24 9