INTRODUCTION STIR-FRIES Chicken Chow Mein Shanghai Fried Noodles Singapore Noodles Beef with Ribbon Noodles Spicy Fried Noodles Seafood Ribbon Noodles Fried Hokkien Prawn Noodles Tamarind and Garlic Chive Noodles Crispy Noodles Fried Festival Noodles Burmese Stir-fried Noodles Stir-fried Sweet-potato Noodles Stir-fried Noodles with Omelette Drunken Noodles Tofu, Chinese Broccoli and Black Bean Noodles Braised Soy Mushrooms with Chives and E-fu Noodles Teriyaki Salmon Noodles SOUPS Roast Duck Noodle Soup Fish Ball Noodle Soup Crossing-the-bridge Noodles Hand-torn Noodles Wonton Noodle Soup Miso Ramen Pork Bone Ramen Iron Pot Udon Moon-viewing Udon Beef Pho Chicken Pho Tempura Crumb Udon Spicy Lemongrass Beef Noodles Duck and Bamboo Shoot Noodles Crab, Tomato and Omelette Noodles Tom Yum Soup Noodles Boat Noodle Soup Chiang Mai Curry Noodles Pork Ball and Glass Noodle Soup Spicy Yellow Noodles Curry Laksa Tamarind Fish Laksa Himalayan Noodle Soup Meatball and Gourd Noodle Soup Beef Noodle Soup Burmese Fish Chowder Pork Noodle Hotpot Coconut Chicken Noodles Smoky Mushroom and Glass Noodle Soup Phnom Penh Noodles Persian Noodle Soup Hawaiian Noodle Soup Lamb and Vegetable Soup with Hand-Pulled Noodles Laghman Chicken and Cauliflower Noodles Ham and Pea Shoot Noodles Silken Tofu, Yuzu and Samphire Noodles SAUCES Spicy Sichuan Noodles Henan Braised Noodles Ants Climbing a Tree Hot Dry Noodles Lobster Noodles Beijing Bolognese Pork and Rolled Noodle Stew Dai Meat and Tomato Noodles Ribbon Noodles with Gravy Shimeji Mushroom and Shiso Leaf Pasta Curry Udon Sweet Soy Chicken Noodles Ribbon Noodles with Scrambled Egg Sauce Soft Tofu and Kimchi Noodles Turmeric Fish and Dill Mogok Round Rice Noodles Shan Noodles Mandalay Round Rice Noodles Rakhine Fish Noodles Salted Soybean Ribbon Noodles Saucy Chicken and Peanut Noodles Pork, Tomato, Kaffir Lime and Celery Noodles SALADS Grilled Pork Patties and Herbs Ramen Salad – Hiyashi Chūka Chilled Udon with Splashed Sauce Japanese-style Scallops with Soy Butter, Black Sesame and Somen Noodles Spicy Chicken and Glass Noodle Salad Cold Sesame Noodles Spiced Mung-bean Jelly Noodle Salad Iced Buckwheat Noodles Simple Wheat Noodle Salad Mandalay Hand Mixed Noodles Burmese Rainbow Salad Sake-steamed Clams with Zero Noodles Prawn, Mizuna and Yuzu Salad SNACKS Steamed Pork and Mushroom Noodle Rolls Summer Rolls Vermicelli-stuffed Spring Rolls Chinese Prawn ‘Cannelloni’ Persian Noodle Pie with Potato Crust Five Spice Ribbon Noodle Crisps Japanese Noodle Omelette Soba Noodles with Dipping Sauce Hiroshima Noodle Pancake Cheat’s Bombay Mix Ramen Burger New Year’s Eve Noodles GLOSSARY AND STOCKISTS If you’re looking for an in-depth history of noodles, I suggest you look elsewhere. I am not a noodle expert or anthropologist, and when I look at the shelves of noodles on offer in the Chinese supermarket, I’m as giddied by the choice as anyone else. However, if you’re looking for someone to tell you how to cook oodles of wondrous noodles and provide the odd bit of noodle- based trivia, I’m definitely your woman. I am a noodle enthusiast – an avid eater and an equally eager cook, which you’ll see from the food blog I write at meemalee.com. My parents are from Burma (aka Myanmar), where noodles are a way of life – the national dish is Mohinga, a bowl of fish chowder with slippery rice noodles, fresh feathery coriander, crunchy white cabbage and crispy pea fritters. The Burmese word for noodles is khao swè, which literally means ‘fold / pull’*, and is a reference to how they were traditionally made – by folding and pulling dough repeatedly until strands of noodles were formed. And so, there are recipes here that take you back to tradition, and teach you how to make your own noodles from scratch. There are also recipes here that use the humble instant noodle – there is no such thing as a bad noodle in my book (pun intended). And if you’re missing an old favourite, I hope you’ll discover a new noodle love. Most of the hundred dishes come from Asia, and China is generally considered the birthplace of the noodle – in fact, a 4000-year-old bowl of millet-based noodles was unearthed in Lajia in China in 2002. As noodle dishes spread from China, they morphed and were adapted over time to use unique local flavours and ingredients. So you will see that some of these recipes are distant cousins, although they deserve to be documented separately as wonderful dishes in their own right. A few of the recipes may look a little long and complicated, but please believe me when I say they’re worth the wait (and effort). Others, though, are ready in minutes and use only a handful of ingredients, but are no less delicious because of this. As a fairly neutral ingredient, noodles can take on all sorts of flavours or act as a foil to dishes that are spicy or soothing, rich or light. They can also vary in texture, from silky smooth to satisfyingly crunchy – see my recipe for Bombay Mix, for example. The main thing I want you to take away from this book is how wonderfully versatile noodles can be – whether you’re planning a quick desk lunch, an easy weeknight meal, a weekend treat, a lavish feast or even a picnic, you’ll find the perfect noodle dish for you. MiMi Aye London, January 2014 *Unfortunately for generations of Burmese children, khao swè also means ‘knock / yank’. Older siblings will ask them, ‘Khao swè sar-ma-lar? [Do you want to eat noodles?]’ and when the unsuspecting innocents say yes, they are greeted by a sharp rap on the head and a yank of their hair (I have suffered in this way). NOODLES This book uses the word ‘noodle’ in its British English sense, so we’re talking long, thin strips of dough. The dough is usually made from cereals or pulses, but there are also recipes using noodles made from vegetables such as sweet potato and something called devil’s tongue (a type of yam). Here’s a description of the noodles used in this book. Wheat Noodles • ban mian or pan mee – a hand-torn noodle from China and Malaysia; home- made by tearing off rough, flat pieces of dough and boiling immediately. • chūkamen – a thin, pale yellow Japanese noodle; served hot in ramen and yakisoba, and cold in Hiyashi Chūka. Found fresh, dried or frozen in packets in Japanese supermarkets, and fresh or dried in larger Western supermarkets. • udon – a very thick, white Japanese no odle with a square cross-section; served hot or cold. In its fresh form, it’s known as yude udon. Found fresh, dried or frozen in packets in Japanese supermarkets, and fresh or dried in packets in larger Western supermarkets. • sōmen – a thin, white Japanese noodle; usually served cold. Found dried in packets in Japanese and larger Western supermarkets. • Shanghai noodle (cui mian) – a very thick, white Chinese noodle with a squarish cross-section. Found fresh in packets in oriental and Asian supermarkets. Udon (fresh or dried) can be substituted. • lamian or laghman – a hand-pulled noodle from China and Central Asia; home-made by stretching, pulling and twisting sausages of dough. • misua – a thread-like salted Chinese noodle. Found dried and fresh in packets in oriental and Asian supermarkets. Rice vermicelli can be substituted. • reshteh – a flat, narrow, pale noodle from Central Asia; used in Persian and Afghani cuisine. Found dried in packets in Middle Eastern shops. • standard thick wheat noodles – these are used across Asia where they are generally known by the Chinese names of lo mein (Cantonese), lāo miàn (Pinyin) and lo mi (Hokkien); called gyohn khao swè in Burma. Found dried, fresh or frozen in packets in oriental and Asian supermarkets, and dried and fresh in Western supermarkets. Can replace with medium egg noodles found
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