Winterthur Portfolio 2003: Vol 38 Index

9 Pages·2003·3 MB·English

Index to Volume 38
AUTHORS Bruegel, Martin, Farm, Shop, Landing: The Rise of a Market
Society in the Hudson Valley, 1780-1860 (Kathleen Eagen
Clifford, Marie J., “Helena Rubinstein’s Beauty Salons, Johnson), 67
Fashion, and Modernist Display,” 83 Buggeln, Gretchen T., Temples of Grace: The Material Trans-
Colbert, Charles, “Winslow Homer, Reluctant Modern,” 37 formation of Connecticut’s Churches, 1790-1840 (Robert P.
de la Pena, Carolyn Thomas, “Ready-to-Wear Globalism: Emlen), 266
Mediating Materials and Prada’s GPS,” 109 Cazort, Mimi, Mauro in America: An Italian Artist Visits the New
Gorman, Carma R., “Industrial Strength Design: An Exhibi- World (Gail Husch), 160
tion Review,” 245 The Ceramic Career of M. Louise McLaughlin, Anita J. Ellis
Harding, Anneliese, “British and Scottish Models for the (Nancy E. Owen), 173
American Genre Paintings of John Lewis Krimmel,” 221 The Corset: A Cultural History, Valerie Steele; and Jane Farrell-
Langley, Harold D., “From the Collection: Warren Opie’s Beck and Colleen Gau, Uplift: The Bra in America (MichaelJ .
Sailor’s Uniform at Winterthur,” 131 Murphy), 151
Manca, Joseph, “A Matter of Style: The Questicn of Domestic Interiors: The British Tradition, 1500-1850, James Ayres
Mannerism in Seventeenth-Century American Furniture,” 1 (Roberth Leath), 255
Prokopow, Michael J., “Material Truths: The Quilts of Gee's Dubrow, Gail Lee, and Jennifer B. Goodman, eds., Restoring
Bend at the Whitney Museum of Art: An Exhibition Women’s History through Historic Preservation (Charlene
Review,” 57 Mires), 263
Reinhardt, Leslie, “Whistler, Women, and Fashion: An Ellis, Anita J., The Ceramic Career of M. Louise McLaughlin
Exhibition Review,” 143 (Nancy E. Owen), 173
Smith, Christine A., “George Washington’s Last Will and Embracing the East: White Women and American Orientalism, Mari
Testament: An American Odyssey,” 183 Yoshihara (John Haddad), 271
Truettner, William H., “Plains Geometry: Surveying the Path Everyday America: Cultural Landscape, Studies after J. B.
from Savagery to Civilization,” 199 Jackson, Chris Wilson and Paul Groth, eds. (Anna Vemer
Andrzejewski), 76
Farm, Shop, Landing: The Rise of a Market Society in the Hudson
ARTICLES Valley, 1780-1860, Martin Bruegel (Kathleen Eagen
Johnson), 67
“British and Scottish Models’ for the American Genre Farrell-Beck, Jane, and Colleen Gau, Uplift: The Bra in Am~vica;
Paintings of John Lewis Krimmel,” Anneliese Harding, 221 and Valerie Steele, The Corset: A Cultural History (MichaelJ .
“From the Collection: Warren Opie’s Sailor’s Uniform at Murphy), 151
Winterthur,” Harold D. Langley, 131 First Resorts: Pursuing Pleasure at Saratoga Springs, Newport, and
“George Washington’s Last Will and Testament: An American Coney Island, John Sterngass (Bryant F. Tolles Jr.), 276
Odyssey,” Christine A. Smith, 183 The Furniture of Charleston, 1680-1820, Bradford L. Rauschen-
“Helena Rubinstein’s Beauty Salons, Fashion, and Modernist berg and Joh: Bivins Jr. (Philip D. Zimmerman), 257
Display,” MarieJ . Clifford, 83 Laderman, Gary, Rest in Peace: A Cultural History of Death
“Industrial Strength Design: An Exhibition Review,” Carma R. and the Funeral Home in Twentieth-Century America (Ann
Gorman, 245 Bazzarone), 169 .
“Material Truths: The Quilts of Gee’s Bend at the Whitney Lapsansky, Emma Jones, and Anne A. Verplanck, eds., Quaker
Museum of Art: An Exhibition Review,” Michael J. Aesthetics: Reflections on a Quaker Ethic in American Design and
Prokopow, 57 Consumption (William D. Moore), 70
“A Matter of Style: The Question of Mannerism in Manufacturing the Muse: Estey Organs and Consumer Culture
Seventeenth-Century American Furniture,” Joseph Manca, 1 in Victorian America, Dennis G. Waring (Matthew
“Plains Geometry: Surveying the Path from Savagery to Piel), 167
Civilization,” William H. Truettner, 199 Mauro in America: An Italian Artist Visits the New World, Mimi
“Ready-to-Wear Globalism: Mediating Materials and Prada’s Cazort (Gail Husch), 160
GPS,” Carolyn Thomas de la Pena, 109 Mulrooney, Margaret M., Black Powder, White Lace: The du Pont
“Whistler, Women, and Fashion: An Exhibition Review,” Trish and Cultural Identity in Nineteenth-Century America
Leslie Reinhardt, 143 (Linda Dowling Almeida), 163
“Winslow Homer, Reluctant Modern,” Charles Colbert, 37 Quaker Aesthetics: Reflections on a Quaker Ethic in American Design
and Consumption, Emma Jones Lapsansky and Anne A.
Verplanck, eds. (William D. Moore), 70
BOOK REVIEWS Rauschenberg, Bradford L., and John Bivins Jr., The Furniture
ofC harleston, 1680-1820 (Philip D. Zimmerman), 257
Ayres, James, Domestic Interiors: The British Tradition, 1500- Refined Tastes: Sugar, Confectionery, and Consumers in Nineteenth-
1850 (Roberth Leath), 255 Century America, Wendy A. Woioson (Ken Albala), 72
Beyond the Lines: Pictorial Reporting, Everyday Life, and_ the Rest in Peace: A Cultural History of Death and the Funeral
Crisis of Gilded Age America, Joshua Brown (Georgia B. Home in Twentieth-Century America, Gary Laderman (Ann
Barnhill), 269 Bazzarone), 169 ;
Black Powder, White Lace: The du Pont Irish and Cultural Identity Restoring Women’s History through Historic Preservation, Gail
in Nineteenth-Century America, Margaret M. Mulrooney Lee Dubrow and Jennifer B. Goodman, eds. (Charlene
(Linda Dowling Almeida), 163 Mires), 263
Brown, Joshua, Beyond the Lines: Pictorial Reporting, Everyday Steele, Valerie, The Corset: A Cultural History; and Jane Farrell-
Life, and the Crisis of Gilded Age America (Georgia B. Beck and Colleen Gau, Uplift: The Bra in America (MichaelJ .
Barnhill), 269 Murphy), 151
288 Winterthur Portfolio 38:4
Sterngass, John, First Resorts: Pursuing Pleasure at Saratoga American Temperance Movement, 230
Springs, Newport, and Coney Island (Bryant F. Tolles Jr.), 276 Amon Carter Museum, Fort Worth, Tex., 200
Temples of Grace: The Material Transformation of Connecticut's Analectic Magazine, 221, 237
Churches, 1790-1840, Gretchen T. Buggeln (Robert P. Anderson, John Q., government cattle ranger at Crow Creek
Emlen), 266 Agency, 217
Uplift: The Bra in America, Jane Farrell-Beck and Colleen Gau; Anderson Galleries, New York City, 96
and Valerie Steele, The Corset: A Cultural History (MichaelJ . Andrea, Zoan, Renaissance architect, 25
Murphy), 151 anticlassical style, 16
Waring, Dennis G., Manufacturing the Muse: Estey Organs Antioch Baptist Church, Camden, Ala., 57
and Consumer Culture in Victorian America (Matthew Piel), Antwerp Mannerism, 17, 18
167 “Architectural Study” (de Vries), 17, 19 (ill.)
Wilson, Chris, and Paul Groth, eds., Everyday America: Cultural Arden, Elizabeth, and her salons: catering to debutantes,
Landscape Studies after J. B. Jackson (Anna Vemer 94; decor as ultra-feminine, 100, 101; display of O’Keeffe
Andrzejewski), 76 painting, 100-101; exercise room, 100, 101 (ill.); interiors,
Woloson, Wendy A., Refined Tastes: Sugar, Confectionery, and 93, 101; and modernization, 94; popular with New York
Consumers in Nineteenth-Century America (Ken Albala), 72 elite, 87; Red Door salon, at 691 Fifth Avenue, gg (ill.),
Yoshihara, Mari, Embracing the East: White Women and American 94; Salon D’Oro, 86
Onentalism (John Haddad), 271 Aries, Philippe, historian, 39
Armani, new retail store planned, 110
Arnett, William, Souls Grown Deep: African American Vernacular
SUBJECTS Culture of the South, 61
Arnould, Eric, cultural historian, 112
Adam, Robert, architect, 25 Arrangement in Black: Lady Meux (Whistler), 144, 145, 147,
Adamson, Glenn, curator, /ndustrial Strength Design exhibi- 148
tion: “Career and Designs” section of exhibition catalogue, Art of the Common Man, exhibition (1932), 201
252; emphasizes commercialism, 248; object analysis, 249, Arts and Decoration magazine, 98, 98 (ill.), 106 (ill.)
250; presents Brooks Stevens’s accomplishments and Asafo flagmaking, Ghana, 63
failings, 245, 246, 252; used “teasers” to attract attention Ashworth, Mary, George Washington: A ig 188
to the exhibition, 246-47, 248; used video clips and quo- Audubon, John, traveled up Missouri River (1843), 208
tations of Stevens, 250 Aulick, John H., captain of USS Susquehanna, 133; com-
Adam Thoroughgood House, Virginia Beach, Va., 34, 34 (ill.) mander of East India Squadron, 134
aesthetic dress, 143, 146, 147, 148 Aurora (Krimmel), 225
African American quilts of Gee's Bend, Ala.: advertising of, Autumn: Four Female Figures with a Horse (Nadelman), 89
s
58; contracts for commercial sale, 58; declining interest
in, 58; distinctive patterning in, 59; growing interest in, Back View of Mandan Village, Showing the Cemetery (Catlin), 208,
57-58, 59; juxtaposed colors in, 59; MMa rch 1966 auction 209 (ill.)
of, 57; May 1966 auction of, 57-58; as objects of art, 59, Bacon’s Castle, Surry, Va., 34, 34 (ill.)
63-64; as symbol of black cultural identity, 59, 62, 63; use Bailey, Richard, furniture historian, 19
of corduroy in, 58, 62-63 The Baicony (Manet), 102
African Negro Art, exhibition, Museum of Modern Art (1935), Ballets Russes, go, 96
97, 103 Banham, Reyner, “The Great American Gizmo,” 249-50
Airs, Malcolm, architectural historian, 27 Barbarroux Wharf, Burlington, N.J., 140
Alberti, Leon Battista, architect, 24, 27; On Painting, 31 “Bars,” dungaree quilt (Pettway), 62, 62 (ill.), 64
Alexandria Gazette, 186 Bates, Elizabeth Bidwell, furniture historian, 19
Amencan Design Ethic: A History of Industrial Design to 1940 Battle of First Manassas (First Bull Run), 185
(Pulos), 245 Beam, Philip, art historian, 46
American Folk Art Gallery, New York City, 201 Beard, Geoffrey, furniture historian, 28
Amenican Folk Sculpture: The Work of Eighteenth- and Nineteenth- Beauregard, Pierre, Confederate general, 185
Century Craftsmen, exhibition (1931), 201 Becker, Howard S., art historian, 64
American furniture, seventeenth-century: architectonic struc- Beecher, Rev. Henry Ward, 45, 46, 48, 51- 52, 55
ture of, 2, 5, 12, 19, 21; art- ee aspects of, 12-13, 19; Behman, Frederick, View of Fort Pierre, 206, 2 07 (ili l.)
“Brewster” great chair, 4, 6 “age Carver” great chair, 4, 7 beliefs regarding death, 39-40
(ill.); chest, Searle or Dennis, 12, 14 (ill.); chest, Symond Bell, Dr. Charles, “On the Anatomy of Expression in
shops, 5-6, 8, 10 (ills.), 26,< # 0 chest of drawers, Mason- Painting,” 241
Meissinger shops, 21-22, 22 (ill.); classical details, 2, 4, Bernays, Edward L., public relations counsel, 96
5, 5 (ill.), 6, 7, 11, 12; cupboard, Bayou Bend, 6, 11 (ill.); Bertelli, Patrizio, husband of Miuccia Prada, 114
cupboard, Blin, Peter, 12, 15 (ill.); cupboards, Emery Berwick, William W., restorer of manuscripts: biography,
shops, 8, 12 (ill.), 22-23, 22 (ill.), 24, 29; Doric order, 2, 3 192-93; treatment of George Washington’s will, 183, 189,
(ill.); draw table, 5, 9 (ill.); great chair, Thomas Dennis, 193-95, 194 (ill.), 195, 196, 197
29-24, 23 (ill.), 30; Greco-Roman motifs, 2; guilloche BialostockJia,n , furniture historian, 29
designs, 3, 3 (ill.), 4 (ill.), 12; Hadley chests, 11-12, 13 Biel, Steve, catalogue designer for Industrial Strength Design,
(ill.); one (split spindles), 7-8, 11, 12, 21, 25; 251
joint stool, 4-5, 8 (ill.); “ladderback” chair, 4, 7 (ill.); low- Bierce, Ambrose, writer, 46; “Occurrence at Owl Creek
back (“C sae ee ) chair, 4, 8 (ill.); Mannerism, Bridge,” 39, 41, 42
controversy over term, 14-15, 16, 18-21, 26-28, 31, 35-36; Bingham, George Caleb: County Election, 242; Verdict of the
medieval antecedents, 4, 5, 8, 13; overhangs, 8-9, 34; People, 242
Renaissance style, 2-18; Roman antecedents, 2-3, 5-7, 12, Bird’s-Eye View oft he Mandan Village (Catlin), 201-2, 201 (ill.),
24-25, 27, 30, 31; rosettes, 2, 3; S-scroll volutes, 2, 6, 12, 203, 207-8, 211, 213, 216-17
30; wainscot chairs, 2-3, 2 (ill.), 3 (ill), 5, 5 (ill.), 30 Black Elk, Oglala holy man, 209-10
American Primitives: An Exhibit of she Paintings of Nineteenth- Black Folk Art in America, 1930-1980, exhibition, Corcoran
Century Folk Artists, exhibition (1930), 201 Gallery, 61
Index 289
Blin, Peter, furnituremaker, 12 Chanel, Coco, couturiere, 100, 108
The Blind Fiddler (Burnet), 227, 228 (ill.) Chapman, Annie, victim of Jack the Ripper, 43
The Blind Fiddler (Krimmel), 227, 228, 229-30, 229 (ill.) Chase, Philander, editor of The Papers of George Washington,
The Blind Fiddler (Wilkie), 227, 228-29, 228 (ill.), 230, 232, 189
238 Cheney Silk company, 96
Blind Man’s Buff (Krimmel), 227, 231-32, 233, 234 (ill), 239 Cherry-Woman (Krimmel), 226
“Blocks,” quilt (Williams), 63 Cheyenne tribe, and ritual circles, 209
Bloomingdale’s department store, 58 Chiang Kai-shek, Madame, 107
Bodmer, Carl, landscape painter of the American West, 199, Chigi Chapel, Rome, 2
208 Child, George Chaplin, The Great Architect, 43-44, 46
Bonwit-Teller department store, 91, 105, 106 Children’s Bureau, “Baby Day,” in department stores, 113
bookplate design and production, sixteenth-century, 17, 18 cinquecento architecture and art, 7, 20, 25, 26, 31
(ill.), 20, 27, 28-29 Circles of the World, exhibition, 210
Boston Museum of Modern Art, 108 civil rights movement, 57, 58
Boston Public Library, murals, 55 Clansman (Dixon), 43
Boucicault, Dion, playwright, The Octoroon, 44 Clark, T. J., art historian, 203
Brady, Mathew, photographer, 43, 43 (ill.) coiled basketwork of South Carolina, 59
Bramante, Donato, Renaissance architect, 14, 15, 24 Cole, Thomas, artist, Voyage of Life: Old Age, 39, 40 (ill.), 46
Breton, André, Dadaist, 103 Comstock, Helen, furniture historian, 20
Breuer, Marcel, architect, 60 The Contrast (Krimmel), 224
Brooklyn Museum of Art, 145 Costume Institute, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 148
Brouwer, Adriaen, Netherlandish genre painter, 227 Coney, John, silversmith, 32
Brown University, Francis Wayland, president of, 39 Confederate Courthouse, Richmond, Va., repository for
Brunelleschi, Filippo, Renaissance architect, 24 George Washington’s will, 186
Buchanan, Franklin, captain of East India Squadron flag- Conservation of Art on Paper, Inc. (CAPI), restoration firm
ship, 135 working on George Washington’s will, 183, 187, 189, 190,
Budman’s Beauty Parlor, Chicago, 86 191, 195-97; “portfolio mats,” 197
Buffalo Bill’s Wild West Show, 217 Coover, Chris, Christie’s Auction House, 189
Bunyan, John, preacher and author, Pilgrim’s Progress, 39 Cotkin, George, historian, 37, 54
Burch, William Russell, engraver, 234; “High Street, from County Election (Bingham), 242 :
the Country Marketplace Philadelphia: With the Proces- Country Wedding: Bishop White Officiating (Krimmel), 221, 226,
sion in Commemoration of the Death of General George 232-34, 235 (ill.), 237, 239, 240
Washington, December 26th 1799,” 234 Courbet, Gustave, painter, 146
Bureau of Indian Affairs, 216 Craven, Thomas, critic, 95-96
Burke’s Peerage, 221 Crawford, Margaret, historian, 126
Burlington, N.J., mid nineteenth century, 139-40, 141 Crawford, Morris, editor of The Ways of Fashion, 96
Burnet, John, engraver, 221, 227; The Blind Fiddler, 227, 228 The Cries of London, 223-24
(ill.); The Jew’s Harp, 227, 227 (ill.), 231, 232; The Young The Cries of Philadelphia, 223-24
Bird, 227, 231-32 Crow Creek Agency, Dakota Territory (Fuller), 199-200, 200
Burnham, Helen M., art historian, 146, 147, 148 (ill.), 201-2, 203, 204-5, 210-11, 212-14, 214 (ill.), 216,
Butcher, Solomon, photographer, Sylvester Rawding House, 219
North of Sargent, Custer County, Nebraska, 214, 215, (ill.) Crow Creek Agency, S.D., 200, 214-15, 216, 218; photo-
graphs of, 211, 212 (ills.)
Cahill, Holger, Newark Museum: American Folk Sculpture: The Crow Creek Reservation (Fuller), 217, 217 (ill.)
Work of Eighteenth- and Nineteenth-Century Craftsmen, exhibi- Crowninshield, Frank, art collector, 107
tion (1931), 201; American Primitives: An Exhibit of the Culin, Stuart, curator, Brooklyn Museum, 105-6
Paintings of Nineteenth-Century Folk Artists, exhibition (1930), Cummings, Abbott Lowell, historian, 33
201 Cunningham, Alan, David Wilkie biographer, 236
Calvinist doctrine, 45 Currier and Ives, lithographic firm, 243
Canvassinfgo r Votes (Hogarth), 234, 237 (ill.), 242
Capitol Prison, Washington, D.C., imprisonment of Alfred Dali, Salvador, painter, 97
Moss, 186 Darwin, Charles, naturalist, 48, 54; The Origin of Species, 55
Carroll, John, George Washington: A Biography, 188 David, Jacques Louis, Sabines, 231
Carson Pirie Scott and Company department store, art da Vinci, Leonardo, artist and inventor, 14
galleries within, 113 Death of General Wolfe (West), 226-27
“Cartouche” (de Vries), 17, 18 (ill.) Defiance: Inviting a Shot Before Petersburg (Homer), 53
Caryatide (Modigliani), 98, 99 DeMallie, Raymond, historian, 210
Cassatt, Mary, artist, 55, 101 de Montfort, Patricia, art historian, 146, 147
Cassone (Renaissance chest), 3, 5 (ill.) Dennis, Thomas, furnituremaker, 12, 19, 23, 2.
Catlin, George, landscape painter of the American West, 199, de Vries, Hans Vredeman, Renaissance artist, 17-18, 27, 28,
201, 202, 204, 216, 218; Back View of Mandan Village, 29, 30; “Architectural Study,” 17, 19 (ill.); “Cartouche,” 18
Showing the Cemetery, 208, 209 (ill.), 218; Bird’s-Eye View (ill.)
of the Mandan Village, 201-2, 201 (ill.), 203, 207-8, 211, de Wolfe, Elsie, decorator, 85, go
213, 216-17; circular motifs in paintings, 199, 202, 208; d’Harnoncourt, René, director, Museum of Modern Art,
Fort Union, Mouth of the Yellowstone River, 205, 205 (ill.); 200-201
“Indian Gallery,” 203, discipline aboard ship, U.S. Navy, 134, 135-36°
Celadon and Amelia (Krimmel), 22¢ Dixon, Thomas, Jr., Clansman, 43
Cellini, Benvenuto, Renaissance sculptor, 1, 14, 29; Perseus, Domus Aurea of Nero, excavation site, 25
15, 16 (ill.) Donatello, Renaissance sculptor, 24
Chagall, Marc, artist, 103 Dorsey, James Owen, ethnographer, 209
Champcommunal salon, 92 Downes, William Howe, art historian, 51
290 Winterthur Portfolio 38:4
Dreyfuss, Henry, industrial designer, 250 fur trade, in the American West, 199, 204, 205, 206, 208
Drifting Goose, Yanktonai Sioux, at Crow Creek Agency,
214, 215 Galassi, Susan Grace, curator, Frick Collection, 146, 147, 148
Dummer, Jeremiah, silversmith, 32 Gardner, Isabella Stewart, art collector, 97
Dunlap, William, John Lewis Krimmel biographer, 222 Gawalt, Gerald, Manuscripts Department, Library of Con-
Dutch-box configuration, in genre painting composition, gress, 189
228, 230, 232 Gazetteer, radical Edinburgh newspaper, 236, 239
Geertz, Clifford, cultural theorist, 208-9
Eakins, Thomas, William Rush Carving His Allegorical Figure Geldalzher, Henry, paintings curator, Metropolitan Museum
of the Schuylkill River, 242-43 of Art, 58
Eames, Charles, architect and designer, 58 General Assembly Act of 1853, ordered copies made of
Eames, Ray, artist and designer, 58 George Washington's will, 184, 185
Eastern Point Light (Homer), 50, 51, 51 (ill.) Gent, Lucy, art historian, 31
Easton, Robert, architectural historian, 210 George Washington: A Biography (Freeman with Carroll and
Ebelmann, Hans, printmaker, 28 Ashworth), 188
Election Day 1815 (Krimmel), 224, 233-34, 236 (ill.), 242 Goodison, Judith, furniture historian, 28
Election Day at the State House, 1816 (Krimmel), 242 Gordon, Beverly, historian, go
Elegant Couple Meets Chimney Sweeps in Front of Christ Church Gordon, David, director, Milwaukee Art Museum, 251
(Krimmel), 224, 226 Gothic style in architecture, 33; in furniture, 4, 26, 27, 28,
The Elements of Moral Science (Wayland), 39 33> 35
The Elevation of the Cross (Rubens), 46, 48 (ill.) Gourielli’s Apothecary Shop, 83, 84 (ill.)
Emerson, Ralph Waldo, essayist and poet, 52, 53 Gourielli-Tchkonia, Prince Artchil, husband of Helena
Emery shops, furnituremakers, 8, 12 (ill.), 22-23, 22 (ill.), Rubenstein, 85
24, 29 Graham, William A., Secretary of the Navy, 134
Enclosure Acts, 204 “The Great American Gizmo” (Reyner), 249-50
enlistment and classes of boys, U.S. Navy, 133 The Great Architect (Child), 43-44, 46°
Epstein, Jacob, sculptor, 104, 105 Greenberg, Clement, critic, 108
European Commission flag, redesign proposal by Rem grid plan, applied across the West by Congress, 199, 211
Koolhaas, 114 Grier, Katherine C., historian, go
European quilts compared to African American quilts, 61-62 Gross, Terry, host of NPR’s Fresh Air, 65
“Evergreen Hollow,” Moss family home where George Grotteschi, 25, 30
Washington's will was hidden, 185 Gucci, new retail store planned, 110
Evinrude Co., boat motors, 346 Guggenheim, Peggy, art collector, 97; Art of This Century
Ewell, Confederate general, 186 Gallery, 107
Fairbanks, Jonathan, furniture historian, 19, 31 Halicka, Alice, painter, 98, 101
Fairfax City Cemetery, burial place of Alfred Moss, 186 Halttunen, Karen, historian, go
Fairfax County Courthouse, repository for George Washing- Hamburger, Estelle, Bonwit-Teller department store, 105
ton’s will, 183, 184, 197; raided by Union troops, 185, 186 Harmony in Grey and Green: Miss Cicely Alexander (Whistler),
Fales, Martha Gandy, furniture historian, 32 144
Fantastic Art, Dada, Surrealism, exhibition, Museum of Modern ps am in Pink and Grey: Portrait of Lady Meux (Whistler),
Art (1936-37), 102 144, 145 (ill.)
Farm Security Administration, sent to Gee’s Bend, Ala., 61 Harper’s Bazaar, 101, 102
Fashion Group, women’s professional organization, 96, 102 Harper’s Weekly, 41, 44
Fitzgerald, Oscar, furniture historian, 20 Harvard Design School Guide to Shopping (Koolhaas), 114
Fitzpatrick, John, George Washington scholar, 186, 187, 189 Hauser, Arnold, art historian, 15
Flexner, James Thomas, Washington: The Indispensable Man, 188 Head of Man (Nadelman), 89
Follansbee, Peter, furniture historian, 20 Helena Rubenstein Wearing a Yellow Shawl (Laurencin), 100
Ford, Worthington, George Washington scholar, 186 (ill.)
Forman, Benno, furniture historian, 4, 20 Helleu, Paul, painter, Madame Helena Rubinstein, 87, 88, 88
Fortune magazine, 92, 93-94, 93 (ill.), 95, 96, 101, 101 (ill.) (ill.), 89
Fort Union, American fur company outpost, 205, 205 (ill.) The Herring Net (Homer), 47, 48, 49 (ill.)
Fort Union, Mouth of the Yellowstone River (Catlin), 205, 205 (ill.) Herzog and de Meuron, architectural firm, designers of
Fourth of July Celebration in Centre Square, Philadelphia, 1819 Prada Tokyo, 110-11
(Krimmel), 224, 240 High Street, from the Country Marketplace Philadelphia: With the
Fox Hunt (Homer), 55 Procession in Commemoration of the Death of General George
Frankenstein, Alfred, art historian, 242 Washington, December 26th 1799 (Burch), 234
Freedberg, Sydney, art historian, 15, 26 Hoffman, Malvina, sculptor, 98, 101
Freedom Quilting Bee, 57, 58 Hogarth, William, artist, 221, 225, 237, 242; Canvassing for
Freestyle exhibition, Studio Museum, Harlem, 65-66 Voles, 234, 237 (ill.), 242: Rake Surrounded by Artists and
French influence on fashion, 1920s—1940s, g6 Professors, 228
Freuler, Berhard, German landscape painter, 235 Homer, Winslow, artist: affirmative images by, 46, 47 (ill.);
Frick Collection, 144 class affiliations, 40-41; Defiance: Inviting a Shot Before
Friedlaender, Walter, art historian, 15 Petersburg, 53; Eastern Point Light, 50, 51, 51 (ill.); Fox Hunt,
Fuller, William, landscape painter of the American West, 199, 55; The Herring Net, 47, 48, 49 (ill.); The Life Line, 47, 49
202, 203, 216, 218-19; carpenter at Crow Creek Agency, (ill.); lifesaving, 46-48, 50, 51; lighthouses, 48-53; Lost
202, 217; Crow Creek Agency, Dakota Territory, 199-200, 200 on the Grand Banks, 48, 50 (ill.), 54; Moonlight, Wood Island
(ill.), 201-2, 203, 204-5, 210-11, 212-14, 214 (ill.), 216, Light, 51-52, 52 (ill.), 53, 55; only nonlifesaving painting,
219; Crow Creek Reservation, 217, 217 (ill.); grid plan used 12; and photography, 41; Prout’s Neck, 41, 55; Puritan
in paintings, 199, 202-3, 211-12; Indian Burial, Lower heritage, 53; religious beliefs influence works, 37, 41, 42,
Brule, Dakota Territory, 217-18, 218 (ill.) 13-44. 49-48, 50, 53, 54, 553 Searchlight on Harbor Entrance,
Index 291
Santiago de Cuba, 53, 54 (ill.); The Ship’s Boat, 37-38, 38 Klitzke, Theodore, head of art department, University of
(ills.), 40, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 52, 53, 55; on Ten Pound Alabama, 58
Island, 48-50; The Wreck, 46, 47 (ill.), 50; The Wreck of the Knell, David, furniture historian, 28
Atlantic, 44, 45 (ill.), 46; The Wreck of the Iron Crown, 42, 42 Knight, Robert H., photographer, 41
(ill.) Koolhaas, Rem, Dutch architect: designed Prada Soho store,
Hoover, Catherine, art historian, 242 109, 114, 128; Harvard Design School Guide to Shopping, 114;
Hoskins, Janet, anthropologist, 111 “Project for the City,” 123; Projects for Prada: Part 1, 125,
House Beautiful, 98 127
Hoyningen-Huene, Baron, fashion photographer, 101 Krasner, Lee, abstract painter, 58
Hudson River School, 55 Kriebel, Charles, writer, 58
Hull, John, silversmith, 32 Krimmel, John Lewis, painter: American Indian subject
Hunter, Dard, paper historian, 188 matter, 226-27; Aurora, 223; The Blind Fiddler, 227, 228,
Huntington, Collis P., railroad tycoon, 91 229-30, 229 (ill.); Blind Man’s Buff, 227, 231-32, 233, 234
Huntt, O. W., retrieved George Washington’s will from (ill.), 239; Celadon and Amelia, 223; Cherry-Woman, 226;
Richmond, Va., 186 choice of colors, 240; compositional exercises, 226, 226
(ill.); The Contrast, 224; Country Wedding: Bishop White Of-
Independent Woman magazine, 94-95 ficiating, 221. 226, 232-34, 235 (ill.), 237, 239, 240; early
Indian Art of the United States, exhibition (1941), 200 education, 227; Election Day 1815, 224, 233-34, 236 (ill.),
Indian Burial, Lower Brule, Dakota Territory (Fuller), 217-18, 242; Election Day at the State House, 1816, 242; Elegant Cou-
218 (ill.) ple Meets Chimney Sweeps in Front of Christ Church, 224, 226;
Indian Council (Krimmel), influenced by West, 226-27 enrolled in anatomy classes, 226; as exact copyist, 227;
Indians Approaching Fort Union (Wimar), 206-7, 207 (ill.) Fourth of July Celebration in Centre Square, Philadelphia, 1819,
Industrial Strength Design exhibition, Milwaukee Art Museum 224, 240; immigrated to Philadelphia, 222; Indian Council,
(2003): Brooks Stevens archives donated to museum, 145; influenced by West, 226; Interior of an American Inn, 226,
characterized by Stevens’s showmanship and promotional 227, 230-31, 233 (ill.), 235; joined Thomas Sully’s sketch
savvy, 246; critique of, 250; critique of catalogue, 250-52; club, 226; Krimmel Family Portrait, 238; learned German
customized 1929/38 L-29 Cord automobile, on rotating romantic painting, 234, 235; “Near Worth,” 234-35, 237
pedestal, 247, 248 (ill.); Excalibur J race car, in foyer, 246, (ill.); Oyster Barrow in Front of Chestnut Street Theatre, 22
247 (ill.); Hamilton clothes dryer, 252; Harley-Davidson 226; The Parade of Victuallers, 224, 242; Pennsylvania
Hydra-Glide motorcycle, 248, 249 (ill.),2 “Heli-bout” Academy exhibitions (May 1811-14), 223-24, 228, 230;
helicopter/speedboat prototype, 247; installation, 247-48; Pepper-Pot: A Scene in the Philadelphia Market, 223-24, 22:
Milwaukee Road Olympian Hiawatha observation car, 246, (ill.); portrait of Jacob Ritter Sr., 238; Quilting Frolic, 221,
252; Oscar Meyer Wienermobile, 246, 246 (ill.), 250; 227, 228-29, 2 39, 2 31 (ill. ), 23 2. 2 353 , 2 37> 2 39, = 49;
Petipoint iron, 251, 252; “Skylark” Formica—patterned Raspberry Girls of the Alps, Rescued bya Boy, 223; Return from
marquee, 247, 250, 251 Market, 238, 240 (ill.); returns to Europe and home, 234-
Ingalls, James, traveled to Sumner, Kans., from Boston, mid 35; Sketchbook exercises, 222, 222 (ill.), 223, 229 (ills.),
nineteenth century, 211, 213 226, 230; Tableau of Indian Faces, influenced by West, 226—
Inman, William, captain of USS Susquehanna, 134 27; Tending the Rabbit Hutch, 227; View of Centre Square on
Interior of an American Inn (Krimmel), 226, 227, 230-31, 233 the Fourth of July, 224-26, 225 (ill.), 242-43; The Village
(ill.), 235 Politicians, 221-22, 227, 235, 237-41, 238 (ill.), 239 (ill),
Interior of Fort Laramie (Miller), 205, 206 (ill.) 241 (ill.), 242 (ill.); watercolor technique, 222; The Young
International Colonial Exposition of Paris (1931), 106 Bird, 227, 230 (ill.), 232
iron gall ink, propertieosf , 189, 190, 196-97 Krimmel Family Portrait (Krimmel), 238
Irving, Washington, author, travels across the Great Plains, Kuhn, Willy, professor of physiology, 41
eS Kuntschranke, 29
Italian Renaissance — and art, 3, 4 (ill.), 5 (ill.), 6
11, 12, 21, 24, 25, Lady Campbell (Whistler), 144
Lalique, stained glass window in Maison Vionnet salon, 92
Jack the Ripper, landscape painters, nineteenth-century West, 199
Jacob Ritter Sr., je by John Lewis Krimmel, 238 Lanvin, Jeanne, designer, 92
James, William, psychologist and philosopher, 40, 41, 44, 48, Laurencin, Marie, painter, 95, gg—100, 101; Helena Rubenstein
53-54 55; Varieties of Religious Experience, 54 Wearing a Yellow Shawl, 100 (ill.)
Jefferson, Thomas, president of the United States, stationery La Vérendrye, French fur trader, 208
used for Declaration of Independence, 188 Lawrence, Thomas, artist, 226
Jefferson administration, nigga of the Great Plains, 199 Lear, Tobias, George Washington’s secretary, 184
The Jew’s Harp (Burnet), 227, 227 (ill.), 7 Mee Le Corbusier, architect, 91
The Jew’s Harp (Wilkie), 227, 227 (ill.), 232, 238 Legally Blonde, film, containing Prada references, 114
Jimson Weed (O'Keeffe), 100-101, 100 (ill. ), 101 (ill.) Léger, Fernand, artist, 98
John, Augustus, portraitist, 101 Levey, Michael, art historian, 14
Johns, Elizabeth, art historian, 37 Lewis and Clark expedition, observations of Mandan earth
John Singleton Copley in America, exhibition, 147 lodges, 208
Johnston, Phillip, historian, 20 The Life Line (Homer), 47, 49 (ill.)
Jones, Inigo, architect, 12 Life magazine, 97, 102, 109 (ill.), 104 (ill.)
Jourdain, Margaret, furniture historian, 12 Loewy, Raymond, industrial designer, 91, 250
Junker, Patricia, art historian, 44 Lomazzo, Giovanni Paolo, Mannerist theorist, 31
Lord and Taylor department store, as promoter of modern
Kaufmann, Thomas DaCosta, art historian, 26 art, 92
Kelly, Franklin, art historian, 47 Lost on the Grand Banks (Homer), 48, 50 (ill.), 54
Kidwell, Claudia, historian, 147 Lynes, Russell, art historian, 242
King, Charles Byrd, artist, 226 Lyon, Irving, furniture historian, 18
Kiowa tribe, and ritual circles, 209
Kirk, John, furniture historian, 20 MacCannel, Dean, cultural historian, 122, 126
292 Winterthur Portfolio 38:4
MacDonald, Margaret F., art historian, 146, 147, 148 Museum of Fine Arts, Houston, 59, 61, 66
Macneill, Hector, “Scotland’s Skaith; or, The History o’ Will Museum of Modern Art, 102, 103, 106, 108; 1997 expansion
and Jean,” 235 project competition, 114; African Negro Art exhibition,
Madame Helena Rubinstein (Helleu), 87, 88, 88 (ill.), 89 97, 103
Maillard-Kesslere, George, photographer, 103, 106 (ill.)
Mandan Village, N.D., 199, 202, 204, 208, 214; scaffold Nabokov, Peter, architectural historian, 210
burials, 208, 209 (ill.); smallpox epidemic, 204, 213, 217 Nadelman, Elie, sculptor, 89-90, 97, 103; Autumn: Four Female
Manet, Edouard, The Balcony, 102 Figures with a Horse, 89; Head of Man, 89; Nude, 89; Two
Manet/Velezquez exhibition, Metropolitan Museum of Art, Nudes, 89, 99
14. Naeve, Milo, art historian, 19
Mannerism: absent in America, 32-33, 35; in American Nagel, Charles, furniture historian, 19
furniture, 1, 12, 18, 20, 21-23, 35; controversy concerning, National Association of Business and Professional Club
1, 14-15, 16, 18-21, 26-28, 31, 35-36; in England, 27-28; Women, biennial convention (1933), 94
Italian, 16-18, 20, 21, 23, 24, 25, 26, 28, 29, 35; northern The National Intelligencer, Washington, D.C., newspaper, 239
European, 21, 24, 26, 30; in portraiture, 31-32; rejected National Public Radio, Fresh Air, 65
in northern Europe, 26; in silversmithing, 32 “Near Worth” (Krimmel), 234-35, 237 (ill.)
Mantegna, Andrea, Renaissance artist, 25 Neevel, Johan, Institut Collectie Nederlan, 190
Manuscript restoration: debates on moderation of treatment, New England Begins (Trent), 20, 21-24, 25, 26, 28, 32
196; enzyme treatment, 196; fills, 195, 197; gelatin solu- New Ulm, Minn., massacre of white settlers, 216
tion treatment, 197; pressing, 194; silking treatment, 192, New Yorker, 91
195, 196; water bath treatment, 194, 196 New York Times, 96, 107, 193
Marchand, Roland, cultural historian, 112 Nobel, Philip, architecture critic, 110
Marcoussis, Louis, painter, La Recontre, 99 northern European art, 1, 6, 12, 21, 26, 28, 29, 35
Marie Sterner’s International Gallery, New York City, 97 Nude (Nadelman), 89
Marlborough Gallery, New York City, 58 Nutting, Wallace, antiquarian, 19
Marshall Field’s department store, window displays, 113 Nye, David, historian, 97
Marzio, Peter, director, Museum of Fine Arts, Houston, 61
Masaccio, Florentine painter, 24 Observatory Time—The Lovers (Man), 102, 102 (ill.)
Mason-Meissinger shops, furnituremakers, 22 (ill.) “Occurrence at Owl Creek Bridge” (Bierce), 39, 41, 42
Masters of Popular Painting, exhibition (1938), 201 The Octoroon (Boucicault), 44
McKinney, Donald, art dealer, 58 Office for Metropolitan Architecture (OMA), Rem Koolhaas’s
McMillan, Barbara, librarian, Mount Vernon, 189 firm, 114, 123
Meikle, Jeffrey, historian, 252 O'Keeffe, Georgia, artist, 93, 99, 101; Jimson Weed, 100-101,
Mercer, Mabel, jazz singer, 59 100 (ill.), 101 (ill.)
Metropolitan Museum of Art, text panel on Gothic and Old Brick Church (St. Luke’s), 33, 33 (ill.)
Renaissance forms, 5, 21 Omaha tribe, and ritual circles, 209
Mexican War uniforms, 131, 136 On Painting (Alberti), 31
Meyer, D. H., historian, 48 “On the Anatomy of Expression in Painting” (Bell), 241
Michelangelo, Laurentian Library, reception hall, 16 Opie, Warren, sailor: becomes landsman, 135; biography,
Micklethwait, John, cultural historian, 112 133; deserts U.S. Navy, 135, 136; duties aboard ship, 134;
military clothing, men’s: as distinctive garb, 131; Gulf embroidered uniform, 136, 140, 141; family history, 141;
Squadron, Civil War, 131; Mexican War, 131, 133, 136; homesick, 140-41; return of possessions, 136; transferred
pre—Civil War, 131; uniforms and rating badges, 131-33 to USS Pennsylvania, 133; transferred to USS Susquehanna,
military forts, in the nineteenth-century American West, 134; see also Uniform; Sea bag
204-7 optograms, 41
Millais, John Everett, painter, Louise Jopling, 148 Oriental exoticism in dress, 143
Miller, Alan, furniture historian, 20 The Origin of Species (Darwin), 55
Miller, Alfred Jacob, landscape painter of the American West, Oyster Barrow in Front of Chestnut Street Theatre (Krimmel),
199, 204; Interior of Fort Laramie, 205, 206 (ill.) 224, 226
Mingo, Lucy, quiltmaker, 58
Minority Report, film, and identity theft, 119 Packard, Vance, critic, 251
Mirroring Evil exhibition, Jewish Museum, artist Tom Sachs Paley, William, CBS chairman, 58
included in, 114 Palladian ideals, 5, 23, 33, 34
Modern Beauty Shop, trade journal, 92 Palladio, Andrea, architect, 14, 15, 24, 27
Modigliani, Amedeo, artist, 103, 104, 105; Caryatide, 98, 99 papermills, mid-Atlantic region, eighteenth century, 188-89
Mooney, James, ethnographer, 209 The Papers of George Washington (Chase), 184
Moonlight, Wood Island Light (Homer), 51-52, 52 (ill.), 53, 55 The Parade of Victuallers (Krimmel), 224, 242
Mooz, R. Peter, art historian, 32 Parish, Sister, doyenne of interior design, 58
Moss, Alfred, clerk of Fairfax County Court, 184-85, 186 Parish-Hadley, interior design firm, 58
Moss, Martha Gunnell, wife of Alfred Moss, 185, 186 Parkhurst, William H., agent at Crow Creek Agency, 216
Moss, William, pallbearer for George Washington, 185 Parson Capen House, Topsfield, Mass., 8, 13 (ill.), 34
Mother of Pearl and Silver: The Andalusian (Whistler), 144 Peale, Charles Willson, artist, 224, 227-28
Mount, William Sidney, painter, influenced by David Wilkie Peale, Rembrandt, artist, 226
and John Lewis Krimmel, 242 Peiss, Kathy, historian, 85
Mrs. Elizabeth Freake and Baby Mary, 31, 32 (ill.) Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts, 222, 223, 224
Munger, Theodore, religious liberal, 48 Pennsylvania redware pottery, depicted in Krimmel genre
Murray, Commander Alexander, art collector, 233, 237, paintings, 233, 239
240 Pepper-Pot: A Scene in the Philadelphia Market (Krimmel), 223-
Muschamp, Herbert, architecture critic, 110, 121 24, 224 (ill.)
Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, text panel on Pilgrim Century Perry, Matthew C., commander of East India Squadron,
furniture, 6, 20, 21 134-35; opened Japan to American trade, 141
Index 29%
Perseus (Cellini), 15, 16 (ill.) Remington, Frederic, artist, 202
Philips, Ethel Birnie, model for Mother of Pearl and Silver: The Renaissance art and design, 1, 2, 15, 16, 21, 23, 24, 26, 32,
Andalusian (Whistler), 144; model for Red and Black: The 33> 34
Fan (Whistler), 144, 147 Renaissance-revival in dress, 146, 147
Picasso, Pablo, artist, 89, 95, 104, 105; Woman in a Blouse, 102 reservation system, nineteenth-century American West, 200,
Pilgrim Century furniture, 2, 6, 19, 20, 21, 24, 27, 30, 32, 33, 2139-14, 215-16
35, 36 retinal images of murderers, 41, 42-43, 44-45
Pilgrim’s Progress (Bunyan), 39 “retinal realism,” 37, 46, 52
Pinturicchio, Bernardino, Renaissance painter, 24 Return from Market (Krimme!}, 238, 240 (ill.)
Poiret, Paul, couturier, go, 92, 96 Ribiero, Aileen, art historian, 146, 147, 148, 149
Pontormo, Jacopo, Italian painter, 14 Rivera, Diego, Man at ihe Crossroads mural, installation pro-
Port Folio magazine, 224-25, 225-26, 229-30 posed for Prada Los Angeles, 124
Portinari, Candido, artist, 97 Roman architecture, 3, 6, 7
Poussain, Nicolas, artist, Rape of the Sabines, 231 Romano, Giulio, Mannerist painter and architect, 1, 27;
Prada, Miuccia, designer and owner of Prada, 114, 115 Palazzo del Te, 15, 17 (ill.), 33
Prada company, 113-14; Tuscany factory, 121 “Roman Stripes” (Abrams,), corduroy quilt, 62-63, 69, (ill.)
Prada “knock-offs,” 111 Roque, Oswaldo Rodriguez, furniture historian, 19
Prada Los Angeles, 109; “media stages” (planned), 123-24, Rowlandson, Thomas, painter, 221; Vauxhall Gardens, 225
129; murals (planned), 123-24 Royal Academy Schools, attended by David Wilkie, 227
Prada Soho store: aura room, 124, 127; contrasting West and Rubens, Peter Paul, The Elevation of the Cross, 46, 48 (ill.)
East, 123; display cages, 119-21, 120 (ill.), 129; dressing Rubinstein, Helena: advertising tactics, 102-3, 107, 108;
rooms, 111, 112, 117-19, 118 (ill.), 124, 128; employees’ alignment with fashion industry, 91; biography, 84-
insights on consumer behavior, 111, 117, 122; exterior, 85; class of clientele, 94; collector of art, 84, 85, 97, 98,
121; and globalized marketplace, 110, 112, 113, 118, 119—- gQ; criticism of salons, 94, 96; decor of 1937 salon, g8—gg,
21, 124, 125-29; interior design, 110, 111; “loyalty cards,” g9 (ill.); display of African art in salons, 103-7, 106 (ill.),
116, 1 18-10, 11 28: magic mirror in dressing room, 1h s 108; East 57th Street salon (1928), 91-93, 97; effects of
119 (ill.); mannequins, 111, 121; peep show, 124, 125-27, anti-Semitism on, 87-88, 94; establishment of corporate
126 (ill.); profits, 109; reviews, 109, 110; sales oe viihie headquarters, g7; European connections, 88, 91; Fifth
screens, 121-23, 125; seating/display surfaces, 111, 116, Avenue salon, 84, 97-102, 98 (ill.), 99 (ill.), 103 (ill.), 104
117 (ill.), 127, 128; shopper demographics, 127; ge (ill.), 105 (ill.), 107-8; Gourielli’s Apothecary Shop, 83,
product displays, 115, 116; triptych booth, 124, 127, 128 84 (ills.), 107; interest in “exterior design,” go; invented
(ill.); video displays, 111, 122, 128-29; VIP serdoes, 116; Valaze créme, 85; living windows displayed in salons, 102,
“Waste” space, 115 103 (ill.), 104 (ill.), 108; Maison de Beauté Valaze, first
Prada Tokyo, 109, 110 salon, East 49th Street (1915), 86, 87 (ill.), 97, 98; mass-
pre-Raphaelite dress, 143, 146 production of cosmetics, 85, 96; miniature rooms displayed
Price, Linda, cultural historian, 412 in salon, 102, 105 (ill.), 108; and modernism, 85-86, 89,
Primitive (folk) painting market, New York City, 200, 201, 91, 92-93, 98, 99, 100, 103, 104, 106, 107-8; patronage
202 of Laurencin’s art, gg-100, 100 (ill.); portrait by Helleu,
Projects for Prada: Part 1 (Koolhaas), 125, 127 87, 88, 88 (ill.), 89; promotion of salons, 86-87, 88-89;
Prown, Jules, historian, 37, 47, 51, 53 publicity photograph with Ivory Coast mask, 103-4, 106
Pulos, Arthur, American Design Ethic: A History of Industrial (ill.); successful businesswoman, 84, 85, 86, 87, 91, 94,
Design to 1940, 245 g5; theatrical presentation in salons, go; use of color in
salons, 90, 96, 98; use of fashion models, 83, 102, 105, 106
Quattrocento architecture and art, 7, 30, 36 (ill.); use of Nadelman’s art, 89, go, 97, 98, 99; war relief
Quilting Frolic (Krimmel), 221, 227, 228-29, 230, 231 (ill.), work, 107
232, 233, 257, 239, 2 40 Rubinstein, Mala, niece of Helena Rubinstein, 99, 99 (ill.)
The Quilts of Gee’s Bend, exhibition, Whitney Museum (2002):
Abrams, “Ma Willie,” quiltmaker, 62-63, 63 (ill.); critique Sabines (David), 231
of, 60, 63-64; installation, 59, 60 (ill.), 65 (ill.); Pettway, Sachs, Tom, artist, 114
Lutisha, quiltmaker, 62, 62 (ill.), 64; purpose of, 57, 61; Saks Fifth Avenue department store, as promoter of modern
quilts as objects of art, 59, 61; race and racial differences, art, 92
64-65; recognition of quilting artistry, 59-60; stylistic Salem witch trials, manuscripts treated, 194
origins of the quilts, 61; text explanations, 60, 61; Sampson, Marmaduke, Rationale of Crime, and Its Appropriate
transforming mood in galleries, 61; video used in, 61; Treatment, 43, 43, (ill.)
Wardlaw, Alvia, curator, 59, 61; Williams, Irene, quilt- Sanderson, Robert, silversmith, 32
maker, 63 Sansovino, Jacopo, Renaissance <n 15
Santee (Eastern Sioux) tribe: at Crow Creek Agency, 216;
Raimbach, among? — 230, 236, 241; The Village massacre at New Ulm, Minn., 216
Politicians, 232 (ill.), Saratoga, sloop, 135
Rake aaa by pottes sae Professors (Hogarth), 228 Sargent, John Singer, artist, 55; association with Paul Helleu,
Rape of the Sabines (Poussain), 231 87
Raphael, Renaissance artist, 14, 24; Loggetta, Vatican Palace, Satterthwaite, Ann, historian, 113
oF Scharf, Aaron, historian, 41
Raspberry Girls of the Alps, Rescued by a Boy (Krimmel), 223 Scheel, Eugene, historical cartographer, 185-86
Rationale of Crime, and Its Appropriate Treatment (Sampson), 43, Scheetz, Miss, seamstress to Martha Washington, 186
43 (ill.) Schiaparelli, Elsa, couturiere, g2, 108
Ray, Man, Observatory Time—The Lovers, 102, 102 (ill.) School of Fontainebleau, 17, 27, 30
receiving ships, U.S. Navy, 133-34 Schreckengost, Victor, industrial designer, 250
La Recontre (Marcoussis), 99 “Scotland’s Skaith; or, The History o’ Will and Jean”
ReiPland, Birgit, Institut Collectie Nederlan, 190 (Macneill), 235
“reluctant modernism,” 37, 41, 48 537-55 Scott, Walter, author, 53
294 Winterthur Portfolio 38:4
sea bag, embroidered: description of, 137-41, 139 (ill.), 140 Thomson, James, poet, Seasons, 223
(ill.); interpretation of decorations on, 140 Thomson, Robert Ferris, scholar, 62
Searchlight on Harbor Entrance, Santiago de Cuba (Homer), 53, Thoreau, Henry David, author, A Week on the Concord and
54 (ill.) Merrimack Rivers, 50, 51, 53
Searle, William, furnituremaker, 12, 23 Tinkham, Ephraim, II, furnituremaker, 7 (ill.)
Sears and Roebuck, as outlet for African American quilts, 58 Tissot, James, painter, 148
Seasons (Thomson), 223 Titus, Edward, husband of Helena Rubenstein, 85
Selengut, Stanley, crafts retailer, 58 transcendentalism, 41, 47, 53
Self-Portrait (Smith), 31 treaty with Japan for American commerce, 135, 141
September 11, 2001: effect on U.S. economy, 109, 110, 115 Trent, Robert, furniture historian, New England Begins, 20,
Serlio, Sebastiano, classical architect, 3, 3 (ill.), 7, 11 (ill.), 21-24, 25, 26, 28, 32
24-25, 27 Trustee’s Academy in Edinburgh, attended by David Wilkie,
Sewell, Darrel, art historian, 243 227
Shearinan, John, art historian, 15, 26 Twilight Sleep, drug-assisted childbirth, 1914-1920s, 113
The Ship’s Boat (Homer), 37-38, 38 (ills.), 40, 42, 43, 44, 45, Two Nudes (Nadelman), 89, 99
49, 52, 53> 55
Sioux nation, 213: cosmology, 210; at Crow Creek Agency, uniform, naval, mid-nizieteenth-century: embroidered eagle,
214; and ritual circles, 209-10; scaffold burials, 217, 218, 137; French symbols on, 136-37; rating badges, 137; shirt,
218 (ill.) 132 (ill.), 136-37, 137 (ill.), 138 (ill.); trousers, 137, 139
Smith, Jedediah, mountain man, observations of the Sioux, (ill.)
213 Unitarianism, 41
Smith, Thomas, painter, Self-Portrait, 31 Universalist-Unitarian Community Church of New York,
Smithsonian’s National Museum of American History, sailor’s African American quilting auction, 58
trousers, 131 USS Pennsylvania, receiving ship, 133
Smyth, Craig Hugh, art historian, 15 USS Susquehanna, steam frigate, 133, 134; assigned as flag-
Smythson, Robert, architect, 26-27, 29 ship of East India Squadron, 134; traveled to Japan under
Society for Psychical Research, London (1882), 40, 46 Capt. Perry, 135
Society for Psychical Research, New York City, 41
Society of Artists of the United States, 223 van Dongen, Kees, artist, 96
Souls Grown Deep: African American Vernacular Culture of the van Geerevink, Lubertus, Dutch papermaker, 188
South (Arnett), 61 Vanity Fair, 88, 90, 99, 107
Sources of Modern Art, exhibition (1933), 201 The Vanities of Religious Experience (James), 54
Spanish-American War unifogms, 131 Vasari, Giorgio, sixteenth-century painter and writer, 14, 15,
Speaks, Michael, architecture critic, 110 16
Sterner, Howard, architect, 97 Vauxhall Gardens (Rowlandson), 225
Stevens, Brooks: Milwaukee exhibition (1950), 245; pirated Veblen, Thorstein, economist, 148
ideas from other designers, 250; Populuxe design, 245; Verdict of the People (Bingham), 242
primarily a salesman, 246, 251, 252, 253; promotion of veridical hallucinations, 40
products, 249, 251; weaknesses as a designer, 249-50 Vesalius, Andreas, professor of medicine, 226
Stewart, Sir William Drummond, travels in the American Victoria and Albert Museum, guide to collection, 27
West, 205 View of Centre Square on the Fourth ofJ uly (Krimmel), 224-26,
St. George, Robert Blair, historian, 20 225, (ill.), 242-43
Story, Lou, co-designer of Industrial Strength Design exhibition, View of Fort Pierre (Behman), 206, 207 (ill.)
247 The Village Holiday (Wilkie), as source for western landscape
Sie, Louis, interior designer, g2 painting, 203-4, 204 (ill.)
Sully, Thomas, painter, 221; his sketch club, 226 The Village Politicians (Krimmel), 2 «
Sumner, Kans.: 1859 lithograph, 210, 210 (ill.); description 238 (ill.), 239 (ill.), 241 (ill.), 2 N—O i) —
of town, 211 The Village Politicians (Wilkie), 2 €n N y=
Svinin, Paul, Russian diplomat, 226 235-37
Swedenborg, Emanuel, transcendentalist, 47 Vionnet, Madeline, couturiere, 92
Sylvester Rawding House, North of Sargent, Custer County, Nebraska Vitruvius, Roman writer, 27, 31
(Butcher), 214, 215 (ill.) Vlach, John Michael, historian, 59
symbolist movement, 46-47 Vogue, 83, 84 (ills.), 86, 87 (ill.), 88 (ill.), 89, go, 91, 99, 101,
Symonds, James, furnituremaker, 5-6, 8, 10 (ills.) 105 (ill.)
Symphony in Flesh Colour and Pink: Portrait of Mrs. Leyland Vos, Cornelis, printmaker, 28
(Whistler), 144, 145, 146, 147 Voyage of Life: Old Age (Cole), 39, 40 (ill.)
Symphony in White, No. 2: The Little White Girl (Whistler), 1 14, Vreeland, Diana, editor of Vogue, 58
146, 147 Vuitton, new retail store planned, 110
Symphony in White, No. 3 (Whistler), 147
Wadena, ship, 42
Tableau of Indian Faces (Krimmel), influenced by West, walking sticks from Georgia and Missouri, 59
226-27 Walter, Francis X., Episcopal priest and activist, creator of
Tashjian, Dickran, art historian, 108 quilt exhibition in Ala., 57
Tchelitchew, Pavel, artist, 97, 98, 99 Wanamaker’s department store, 113
Teague, Walter Dorwin, industrial designer, 250, 251 Wardlaw, Alvia, curator, The Quilts of Gee’s Bend, exhibition,
Tending the Rabbit Hutch (Krimmel), 227 59, 61
Ten Pound Island, Gloucester, 48 Washington, George, president of the United States: death
Templeman,J . N., photographer, Crow Creek Agency photo- from throat infection, 184; as organized and meticulous
graphs, 211, 212 (ills.) man, 189, 195; personal watermark, 188; prepared two
Temple of Bacchus, Rome, g (ill.), 11 (ill.), 24 wills, 183, 184
Tenier, David, Netherlandish genre painter, 22 7 Washington, Martha, wife of George, 184, 186; will restored,
This Quarter magazine, 85 194
Index 295
Washington’s last will and testament: burial in cellar, 185, White Ghost, Yankton Sioux, at Crow Creek Agency, 214,
190, 191, 196, 197; content of, 183, 184; fills, 195; folded 215
during safekeeping, 185; mold damage, 185, 190, 196, Whitney, Gertrude, art collector, 97
197; paper used, 187, 188, 189; precision in penmanship, Wilkie, David, painter, 221, 241, 242; The Blind Fiddler, 227,
189; restored manuscript bound in album, 195, 197; seal, 228-20, 228 (ill.), 230, 232, 238; The Jew’s Harp, 227, 227
190-91; sewing repairs to mend splits, 186-87, 195, 197; (ill.), 232, 298; training, 227; The Village Holiday, as source
silking treatment (1909-10), 189, 190, 192, 195, 196; for western landscape painting, 203-4, 204 (ill.); The Village
water bath treatment, 194, 196; written in iron gall ink, Politicians, 221, 227, 230, 232 (ill.), 235-37
189, 190, 194, 196-97 Will and Grace, television program, containing Prada refer-
Washington: The Indispensable Man (Flexner), 188 ences, 114
Watercolour Society of Dilettanti, 222 William and Mary style, 35
Watson, Forbes, critic, 95-96 William Paca House, Annapolis, Md., 34
“Watteau” pleat, 143, 146 William Penn’s Treaty with the Indians (West), 226
Wayland, Francis, professor, president of Brown University, William Rush Carving His Allegorical Figure of the Schuylkill River
The Elements of Moral Science, 39 (Eakins), 242-43
The Ways of Fashion (Crawford), 96 Williams, Nell Hall, quiltmaker, 62
A Week on the Concord and Merrimack Rivers (Thoreau), 50, 51,53 Wimar, Carl, landscape painter of the American West, 205;
West, Benjamin, artist, 221, 226; Death of General Wolfe, 226; Indians Approaching Fort Union, 206-7, 207 (ill.)
William Penn’s Treaty with the Indians, 226 Winnebago tribe, at Crow Creek Agency, 216
western art market, “air of authenticity,” 202 Wizi, Yankton Sioux, at Crow Creek Agency, 214, 21 5
Whistler, James McNeill (1834-1903): appropriation of Wolcott, Marion Post, photographer, 61
Spanish style, 144; Arrangement in Black: Lady Meux, 144, Wollaton Hall, Robert Smythson, 29
145, 147, 148; and dictating taste, 143; Harmony in Grey and Woman in a Blouse (Picasso), 102
Green: Miss Cicely Alexander, 144; Harmony in Pink and Grey: Women’s Wear Daily magazine, 96
Portrait of Lady Meux, 144, 145 (ill.); interest in color, 144; Wood, Ruby Ross, decorator, 85
Mother of Pearl and Silver: The Andalusian, 144; preoccupa- Wooldridge, Adrian, cultural historian, 112
tion with back views, 144, 146, 149; Red and Black: The Fan, Worth, Charles, dressmaker, 143, 146, 148
144, 147; studied Gainsborough, 148; Symphony in Flesh The Wreck (Homer), 46, 47 (ill.), 50
Colour and Pink: Portrait of Mrs. Leyland, 144, 145, 146, 1473 The Wreck of the Atlantic (Homer), 44, 45 (ill), 46
Symphony in White, No. 2: The Little White Girl, 144, 146, 147; The Wreck of the Iron Crown (Homer), 42, 42 (ill.)
Symphony in White, No. 3, 147 Wren, James, designer of Fairfax County-Courthouse, 184
Whistler, Women, and Fashion, exhibition, Frick Collection,
New York City (2003), 143-49: catalogue, 143, 146, 147, The Young Bird (Burnet), 227, 231-32
148-49; critique of, 146-48; dress descriptions, 144-46, The Young Bird (Krimmel), 227, 230 (ill.), 232
145 (ill.); fashion plates, 146; installation, 144; portrait
organization, 143-44 . Zerner, Henri, art historian, 27