Vermont life. Vol. 64, Iss. 1

2009·79.4 MB·English

by  Vermont Department of Tourism and Marketing

72527460930793

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Autumn 2009 Volume LXIV Number 1
H fc' ^ .' i I F E A T U R E S
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SPECIAL SECTION
UPSHIFT
26
. 4
Mountain biking clicks in Vermont
28
m
Getting in Gear: An old ski town finds new life
as a mountain biking destination
‘•.V’ 32
Ready to Rock: Abandoned quarries gain ground
as a mountain biking retreat
tV'r'.
36
^ t.tl
% TFie Boundary Brook
Reflections on Newfane Hill
'rA V ’’J
40
TFiinking Autumn
A scenic portfolio by Vermont Life contributing
photographers
48
UnFiurried Pace
The Missisquoi National Wildlife Refuge offers an oasis
for nature lovers
52
BrusFi WitFi Destiny
A Vermont philanthropist is betting that by funding art,
he can fuel discussion about the future of the state
Cover, clockwise from top left: Peter Wadsworth,
Jim Deshler, Peter Wadsworth, Jeb Wallace-Brodeur,
Andrew Wellman, Philippe Pierangeli, jeb Wallace-
Brodeur (2); center photo: Alden Pellett
'■-t
- hsÇ
■ To purchase prints of select photos from this and previous issues,
visit www.vermontlifeprints.coni.
For details, coll toll free [phone]
On The W eb
D E P A R T M E N T S
4 Inside VL www.VernnontLife.com
Enjoy multimedia extras linked to stories in this issue:
5 Update
VIDEO
6 This Season
Watch riders get in the flow and see why Vermont
Highlights of places to go and things to do this autumn
Is becoming the top mountain biking destination in
the East ("Upshift," pages 26-35).
Arts Life
10 Julian Loge SLIDE SHOW
11 "Medicine & Mortality: Postmodern Gothic" There's no lumbering tour bus for these leaf peep­
12 Margaret Cho ers, who view Vermont's fall foliage from behind
the wheel of souped-up American hot rods and
Shelf Life classic British roadsters ("Leaf Peepers in the Fast
13 "Vermont Curiosities" Lane," page 20).
14 "Fit Family"
SLIDE SHOW
14 "It Happened in Vermont"
Every issue. This Season tells you about cool things
18 Outdoor Recreation happening in Vermont. Check our web extras page
for a slide show related to upcoming concerts and
Roller skiing is a great way to tune up for winter while
events (This Season, page 6).
enjoying Vermont's beautiful autumn scenery
SLIDE SHOW
20 Getaways
Experience the sights and sounds of Misty Knoll
These car buffs like hairpin turns with their turning leaves Farms ("Talking Turkey," page 58).
22 Vermont Eats
PLACES IN THIS ISSUE
"Yes We Can!" Preserving the harvest is coming back
1. East Burke p. 28
58 The Working Landscape 2. East Barre p. 32
Autumn is turkey time, naturally 3. Newfane Hill p. 80
4. Missisquoi NWR p. 48
79 Ralph Nading Hill Literary Contest 5. Weston p. 52
The 2009 winner is Sherry Olson's poem "The Paper Cutter"
6. Wilmington p. 6
7 Brattleboro p. 6
80 Vermont Observed
8. Burlington p. 10
"Simplicity Achieved"
9. Essex Junction p. 20
10. Stowe p. 20
11. New Haven p. 58
12. Orwell p. 58
13. East Calais p. 79
VERMONT LIFE
MIDDLEBURY COLLEGE
Welcome to The Lodge at Shelburne Bay and
The Lodge at Otter Creek Adult Living Communities
Welcome to The Lodge at Shelburne Bay
in Shelburne, Vermont and The Lodge at Otter
Creek in Middlebury, Vermont.
The Lodges have established a core philosophy designed to
cater to your every need. A world surrounded by beauty, security
and spirit. A world you’ll explore, experience and cherish.
There’s something special here and it’s just waiting for you.
At The Lodges we offer a range of alL inclusive rental options
that provide our residents with luxury, amenities and elegance—Spacious Cottages, Independent Living,
Residential Care, Assisted Living apartments and The Haven Memory Care Programs.
There’s a deep and vibrant sense of community spirit that welcomes new residents, families
and friends in every conceivable way. Staff and residents bond together and create a family
T
atmosphere that’s special and unique to The Lodges.
.A,t The Lodge at Shelburne Bay and The Lodge at Otter Creek it’s all about community.
The only thing missing is you.
THE LODGE THE LODGE
'« SHELBURNE B.-\Y a/otter creek
Senior Uving CoinmiiniLy ne next ffeuenulon In adult living
The Lodge at Shelburne Bay • 185 Pine Haven Shores Road, Shelburne, VT 05482 • 802-985'9847
The Lodge at Otter Creek • 150 Lodge Road, Middlebury, VT 05751 • 802'388-1220
www.shelhurnebay.com • www.lodgeatottercreek.com
J
OuTieti and operated by Bullrock Corporation
AUTUMN 2009
\^ rm o n tL ifc
I n s i d e VL
MAGAZINE
Come Explore is published quarterly by the State of Vermont
James H. Douglas, Governor
With Us
Kevin L. Dorn, Secretary, Agency of Commerce
and Community Development
Bruce J. Hyde, Commissioner,
Department of Tourism & Marketing
Longtime readers may be sur -
prised by our cover this issue. Editor Mary Hegarty Nowlan
Where there is usually one image Managing Editor Bill Anderson
Art Director Jan Lowry Hubbard
there are many, and where there Production Manager D. J. Goodman
are usually many cover lines, Production Editor Judy Thurlow
there are few. There's even a new Business Manager Julie George
tag line beneath the logo. Fulfillment Manager Marilyn Wood
For the past two years, we've been revamping the inside of the Business Manager's Assistant Tammy Duprey
Shipping Manager Joe Rossi
magazine to accurately reflect today's Vermont and focus less on
the nostalgic perception of our state. We've expanded coverage of Projects Editor Sky Barsch
our outdoor recreation scene, our thriving food culture and our Vermont Life Advisory Board:
Pennie Beach, Paul Bruhn, Laura Carlsmith,
vibrant downtowns. We've devoted new sections to the working
Jack Growl, Katheran L. Fisher,
landscape, and to the ingenious Vermonters who find cutting-
Brian Harwood, Fran Stoddard, Steven Wood
edge ways to make a living. We've shed light on thorny topics like
Editor Emeritus Tom Slayton
migrant workers and not shied away from the sometimes uneasy
relationship between longtime Vermonters and new residents. Editorial and Business Offices: [802] 828-3241
With all of the effort that has gone into providing a thought- Advertising and Product Sales Office
Smart Communication Inc.
provoking magazine, one of our biggest frustrations has been that P.O. Box 283, Vergennes, VT 05491-0283
when it comes time to choose a cover, we've felt restrained by Tel. [phone], fax [phone]
E-mail; [email protected]
having to choose a single image. Somehow, no matter how beau­
Advertising Director Gerianne Smart
tiful the photograph, it never seems to be able to do justice to the
Sales Representatives H. Abby Hummel, Tom Shampnoi
myriad stories inside.
This issue we decided to shake things up and try something Newsstand Coordinator Howard White 8k Associates
new. At last we have something that captures the spirit, diversity,
Single Issue: $4.95
wholesomeness, outdoorsiness and — dare I say it — the fun of
One-Year Subscription Rates $15.95 in U.S.A.,
life in contemporary Vermont. $22.95 Canada & Foreign Delivery
There are those who would rather we focus only on the iconic For Subscription Inquiries
images of Vermont — the foliage, the covered bridges, the red please go online at www.VermontLife.com
and click Subscriber Services
barns. But contemporary Vermont is more lively and varied than or call toll free [phone] or e-mail [email protected]
those images would suggest, and I make no apologies for trying to
bring that vitality to the forefront. I revel in its complexity. Vermont Life Magazine (ISSN 0042-417X) is published quarterly
in February, May, August and November.
Where a century ago, quarries provided work for stonemasons
Editorial and business offices are located at
and helped build the city of Barre, they now provide the back­ 6 Baldwin St., Montpelier, VT 05602
drop for some of the best mountain biking trails in the country [phone].
Editorial comments or questions: [email protected]
and the economic spark that comes with that ("Ready to Rock,"
website http://www.VermontLife.com
page 32). Farms that once raised sheep and then cows now host
all manner of animals, which then serve the growing market for
Change of address must be received eight weeks prior to publicatior
organic and free-range products ("Talking Turkey," page 58). And to ensure continuous delivery of magazine. Please include you
food preserving, a chore of 19th- and early 20th-century farm life, old address as well as your new address. Periodicals postage pai<
at Montpelier, VT, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER
has been taken to a whole new level in the last few years by local Send form #3541 to Vermont Life, 6 Baldwin St., Montpelier, VT
food enthusiasts ("Yes We Can!" page 22). © Copyright 2009 by Vermont Life Magazine.
It turns out, we don't need to look back wistfully at a time Printed in the U.S.A.
Privacy Notice Subscribers, to have your name excluded from us(
gone-by, and we don't always need a whole lot of cover lines
by third parties, call [phone].
to sell this magazine. Vermont is one of the most physically ac­ The editors of Vermont Life will review any submissions. Dut
tive, creative, food-savvy, forward-thinking states in the union. to volume received, all submissions cannot be responded tc
individually. No responsibility is assumed by the State of Vermont
Vermont today is extraordinary.
or Vermont Life for loss or damage to materials submitted
So come explore the dynamic culture of contemporary Ver­ Return postage must accompany all manuscripts, drawings am
mont with us. What are you waiting for? photographs if they are to be returned. All rights are reserved
No part of Vermont Life may be reproduced without permissior
of the editor. Vermont Life'’** is a trademark registered with th<
United States Patent and Trademark Office.
w w w .V erm ontL ife.com
Mary Hegarty Nowlan, Editor
[email protected]
Member:
International Regional \m \
Magazine Association
4 • VERMONT LIFE
U P D A T E
M c K E R N O N
DESIGN • CONSTRUCTION • INTERIORS • FURNISHINGS
The McKemon Group would like to present to you...
a unique opportunity to build your own McKemon home
on the Outer Bay of Colchester, Vermont
Powell Beach
• MAKE PLANS NOW
Vermont Life calendars are now avail­
able for 2010. Showcasing the beauty
of Vermont, these calendars boast our
finest photography and are designed
a private lakeside
in six easy-to-use styles, including a
desk calendar, two spiral-bound book
neighborhood
options and three wall calendars. To
order, visit www.VermontLifeCatalog.
com or call [phone].
• MOVING DAY
The Vermont Life offices, located for
many years at 6 Baldwin St. in Mont­
pelier, are moving to a nearhy location.
The new address, beginning Sept. 1,
will be Vermont Life, One National Life
Drive, Montpelier, VT 05620-0501.
INBOX
From Jeffrey Bryan, West Concord, Powell Beach is designed as a small neighborhood of seven
Mass. custom homes on 23 acres with 300 feet of sandy beach.
I get so many freebie newsletters,
I generally just hit the delete but­
ton. [But] I find your Vermont Life Family owned for
newsletter very entertaining. The Q over WO years
& A (in May) with Marialisa Calta
Dynamic views
demonstrates how comfortable
overlooking the lake
folks from Vermont are.
Private Beach
From Jill Reynolds, Flinesburg
I just finished reading the Summer
2009 issue and loved it ... [Under
Mary Nowlan's leadership] you Minutes to
have really brought out the spirit International Airport
of Vermont with such articles as
"Nature's Turn," "Base Camp" and
"Back to the Land." You have done The Powell family and The McKemon Group share a deep
it with pictures AND meaningful respect for the environment. We recommend the use of green
textl I enjoyed comparing and
products and systems for your home.
contrasting the articles "Back to
Design-Build Firm
the Land" and "Retro Central"; two
different couples finding their niche In the tradition of the Master Builder, we bring together design
in Vermont. Keep it up. and construction, taking your project from concept to completion.
Send letters to Vermont Life,
6 Baldwin St., Montpelier, VT 05602 Brandon, Vermont [phone] Crown Point, New York
e-mail: [email protected] www.mckernongroup.com
AUTUMN 2009 • ~>
i -''
This
Season
Aug. 23 Sept. 12-Oct. 25
Vermont Cheesemakers Festival SculptFest09
Shelburne Farms, Shelburne The Carving Studio and Sculpture Center,
West Rutland
Places to go
This event adds another element to Ver­
mont's growing status as a food destina­ A craft with a rich tradition in Vermont,
and things to do tion. "Vermont has more artisan cheese- stone carving will be on display as The
makers per capita than any other state, Carving Studio hosts its annual outdoor
and it produces some of the best cheese sculpture installation. Approximately 10
in the world," Allison Hooper, co-owner artists, selected by guest curator Fran
of Vermont Butter & Cheese Company, Bull, will be on hand at the opening re­
You've been active all summer long —
said in a release. "We wanted to create ception at 5 p.m. on Sept. 12. Reception
running, swimming, biking — now here's an event that not only showcases the will also feature live music and a raffle
your chance to put it all together by en­ cheesemakers' skills but also gives the drawing of five works of art. Free. www.
tering a triathlon I Autumn's cooler temps wider community a chance to learn carvingstudio.org; [phone].
will even help your stamina. about their craft."
Sept. 13
Shelburne Museum Goes to the Dogs
♦ RaceVermont.com Sprint Triathlon The main event takes place Aug. 23 in
the Coach Barn at Shelburne Farms, with Shelburne Museum, Shelburne
Aug. 22
more than 100 cheeses available for
If you're crazy about canines (and your
500-yard swim, 15.4-mile bike and sampling from 50 different cheesemak­
3.1-mile run beginning at Shelburne ers. There will also be tasting seminars dog is too), roll on over to "Shelburne
Beach. 8 a.m. $40 for individuals, and local artisan foods. Nationally Museum Goes to the Dogs." This wild
$60 for teams. [phone]. acclaimed chef Eric Warnstedt will lead party for four-legged friends and their
people includes a costume parade, agil­
a cooking demonstration, as will Tom
♦ Vermont Sun Kids Triathlon ity course, dog social areas and more.
Bivins, executive chef of the New
10 a.m. to 5 p.m. $ 10 for adults, $5 for
Sept. 13 England Culinary Institute. The event is
children ages 4 to 18, free for museum
Kids 7 to 10 years old swim 100 yards, hosted by the Vermont Institute for Artisan members. [phone].
bike 3 miles and run 0.6 miles. Kids 1 1 Cheese, the Vermont Cheese Council
to 14 years old swim 200 yards, bike and Vermont Butter & Cheese Company. Sept. 25-27
6 miles and run 1.2 miles. Organized 1 0 a.m. to 5 p.m. Festival entry tickets Vermont Life Wine & Harvest Festival
by the people who oversee the Vermont are $20, individual seminars are an Mount Snow Valley
Sun Triathlon Series. Noon, Middle- extra $45 and children under 3 are free.
bury. $15. [phone]. www.vtcheesefest.com; [phone]. Returning for its second year, this
weekend-long celebration of Vermont's
♦ Burlington Triathlon/Olympic Distance As a companion event to the festival, the thriving food and wine scene gets go­
Vermont Artisan Food Open Studio Day ing on Friday evening with a bluegrass
Sept. 13
is being held on Aug. 22. More than 20 party and barbecue. On Saturday and
Swim 0.9 miles, bike 22.5 miles and food producers — including creameries, Sunday, an expanded lineup of cooking
run 6.2 miles beginning at North vineyards and breweries — will open demonstrations will include Ted Fondulas
Beach in Burlington. Put on by their doors for tastings and a look behind of Hemingway's Restaurant in Killington,
RaceVermont.com. $75 for individuals, the scenes. For more on the artisan food Tristan Toleno of Riverview Café in Brat-
$95 for teams. [phone]. open studio, visit www.vtcheesefest.com. tleboro and representatives of The Putney
VERMONT LIFE
Inn. Specialty-foods makers, cheesemak- attract a lively mix of nationally known
ers, vintners, arts and crafts vendors, writers, Vermont favorites, poets and
booksellers and other businesses are more. Vermonters taking part include
also part of the festival mix, and several Harry Bliss, the New Yorker cartoonist
nearby inns offer Vermont wine-pairing and children's book author, and "Birds in
dinners. Live music is threaded through Fall" author Brad Kessler. Other note-
the weekend as well, including jazz trios ables include Pulitzer Prize winner David
led by Will Patton, Eugene Uman and Hackett Fischer (author of "Champlain's Art in the Park
Howard Bronfsky, and acoustic roots Dream") and National Book Award
music performed by the Jim Flynn Trio winner Julia Glass. Panel discussions,
and Three Way Street. readings and special events celebrate
established and emerging writers. All
The festival is located at the crossroads
events are free! Check www.brattleboro-
of Routes 100 and 9 in the town of
literaryfestival.org for schedule.
Wilmington. For a complete schedule
of events and various admission prices, Oct. 9-1 1
visit www.thevermontfestival.com or call Stowe Foliage Art & Croft Festival
[phone]. Topnotch Field, Stowe
Sept. 26 Elegant pottery, blown glass, fantastic
Ira Glass furniture, one-of-a-kind clothing, intricate
Flynn MainStage, Burlington weavings and original art will be on sale
as 200 artists and artisans participate in
The distinct voice of Ira Glass can be this annual festival. The sale happens un­
heard every week on "This American der heated tents, so you'll be comfortable
Life," a public radio and television an­ as you peruse these impressive crafts
thology of personal stories centered on a and watch the artists in action. Music
theme. The show is one of public radio's and food — including the Vermont Beer,
most popular programs, airing on more Cheese and Sausage Tent, with more
than 500 stations each week and reach­ than a dozen microbrews and many
ing 1.7 million listeners. Glass and others different Vermont cheeses and sausages
interview real people with unbelievable — round out the weekend. 1 0 a.m. to 5
stories of coincidence, chance reunions, p.m. $8 and less. [phone].
comeuppance and determination. Glass
comes via the Vermont Folklife Center, Oct. 10-11
which is celebrating its 25th anniversary. South Hero Applefest & Craft Show
8 p.m. $48 and $38. [phone]. South Hero
Oct. 2-4 The prolific farms on the Champlain
Islands produce some of the state's
Brattleboro Literary Festival
best-tasting apples. While the commu­
Downtown Brattleboro
nity always celebrates the harvest, this
Heading into its eighth year, this book- year's apple season is even more fun as
lovers' event continues to grow and the state marks the 400th anniversary
AUTUMN
of Samuel de Champlain's visit to Lake j
Champlain. Champlain described the j
Champlain Islands as having "many
kinds of fruit without limit," and the j
islands will celebrate 400 years of apple j
growing with Franco-American music j
performances, French cuisine, Native Î
American storytelling and an exhibit
featuring an Abenaki-made birchbark ca- ^
noe. Also, a craft show, family entertain- ;
ment, farm animals, food vendors and
lots and lots of apples. 1 0 a.m. to 4 p.m.
both days. Free. [phone].
Oct. 10-11
Art in the Park
Main Street Park, Rutland
Join 9,000 other art-seekers at Art in
the Park, Rutland's twice-a-year event for
80 to 100 of the region's arts and craft
producers. Presented by the Chaffee
Art Center, Art in the Park includes free
children's activities, live music and hourly
door-prize drawings. Some vendors in­
clude fine artists Ann McFarren and Peter
Huntoon; Bob Weaver, wood mosaics;
Will Anderson, wood wall-hangings; and
John and Linda Garrison, glasswork. 10
a.m. to 5 p.m. Admission by voluntary
donation, www.chaffeeartcenter.org;
[phone].
Oct. 16
Martin Sexton
Chandler Center for the Arts, Randolph
After touring this summer with such
artists as Bruce Hornsby and Chris
Isaak, acclaimed singer Martin Sexton
is in Vermont for a performance at the
I F. 11S J - intimate, 575-seat Chandler Music Hall.
i
The website allmusic places Sexton in
the company of legends, saying his
LEAVES NOTHING IN ITS PATH.
vocal style "combines the best qualities
EXCEPT THE COMPETITION.
of singers like Van Morrison, Al Green,
Put an end to fall cleanup hassle with a DR® LEAF and LAWN Aaron Neville and Otis Redding." The
VACUUM. No other is built stronger or lasts longer. Boston Globe said of Sexton: "His songs
are sweet and spirited and soulful. His
UNSTOPPABLE POWER Collect and shred acres
of leaves, pine cones, pine needles, grass clippings, nuts. repertoire is like a cross<ountry tour of
the American musical vernacular."
HUGE CAPACITY Exclusive shredding action reduces
debris 10:1, for more vacuuming and less unloading. 7:30 p.m. $30 and less, www.chandler- :
arts.org; [phone].
BUILT TO LAST Beefy steel frame, large hoses,
hard shell collector, commercial engine options.
Nov. 1
6-MONTH HANDS-ON TRIAL
PLUS! Dee Dee Bridgewater
Try it at home and then decide.
SELF-PROPELLED
Flynn MainStage, Burlington
MODELS!
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66476X©2009CHP, Inc.
A small city with a big appetite for jazz,
Call Toll-Free Co Online Burlington hosts the annual Discover Jazz
1 -8 88 -2 0 6-0 0 2 2 DRIeafvac.com Festival each June and sees high-profile
artists swing through town all year long.
8 • VERMONT LIFE