SEWING E H BT OOK CLOTHES • HOME ACCESSORIES • BEST TOOLS STEP-BY-STEP TECHNIQUES • CREATIVE PROJECTS ALISON SMITH SEWING E H BOOK T 0U0S1__0U0K1__SSDD339977..iinndddd 11 220//1100//0088 1165::5078::5565 0U0S2_-000023-_0U0K3__SSDD339977..iinndddd 22 260//1100//0088 1145::3057::0199 SEWING E H BOOK T ALISON SMITH 0U0S2_-000023-_0U0K3__SSDD339977..iinndddd 33 220//1100//0088 1175::0007::3257 London, New York, Melbourne, Munich, and Delhi PROJECT EDITOR Norma MacMillan PROJECT DESIGNERS Viv Brar Nicola Collings Mandy Earey Heather McCarry PHOTOGRAPHY Peter Anderson (Tools and Techniques) Kate Whitaker (Projects) For Dorling Kindersley PROJECT EDITOR Ariane Durkin PROJECT ART EDITOR Caroline de Souza MANAGING EDITOR Dawn Henderson MANAGING ART EDITOR Christine Keilty SENIOR JACKET CREATIVE Nicola Powling SENIOR PRODUCTION EDITOR Jenny Woodcock SENIOR PRODUCTION CONTROLLER Mandy Inness CREATIVE TECHNICAL SUPPORT Sonia Charbonnier First American Edition, 2009 Published in the United States by DK Publishing 375 Hudson Street New York, New York 10014 09 10 11 12 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 SD397—04/09 Copyright © 2009 Dorling Kindersley Limited All rights reserved Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise), without the prior written permission of both the copyright owner and the above publisher of this book. Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited. A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. ISBN 978–0–7566–4280–8 DK books are available at special discounts when purchased in bulk for sales promotions, premiums, fund-raising, or educational use. For details, contact: DK Publishing Special Markets, 375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014 or [email protected]. Color reproduction by MDP, UK Printed and bound in China by L.Rex Printing Co. Ltd Discover more at www.dk.com 0U0S4_-000045-_0U0K5__SSDD339977..iinndddd 44 261//1100//0088 1147::3593::1051 S Introduction 6 Pockets 210 Hems and edges 226 T TOOLS 10 Fasteners 248 N Linings and interfacings 274 Sewing equipment 12 Professional techniques 280 Fabrics 38 E Mending 296 Patterns 56 T TECHNIQUES 84 PROJECTS 304 N Stitch essentials 86 Directory of fashion and soft O Darts, tucks, pleats, and gathers 104 furnishings 384 Facings and necklines 142 Collars 158 Glossary 390 C Waistlines, belts, and tie-backs 168 Index, Acknowledgments, Sleeves and sleeve finishes 188 and Useful websites 394 0U0S4_-000045-_0U0K5__SSDD339977..iinndddd 55 261//1100//0088 1147::4513::4089 INTRODUCTION The Sewing Book provides a comprehensive guide to all sewing techniques, whether it be for dressmaking, tailoring, crafts, or soft furnishings. If you are new to sewing, you’ll find many tips to help and guide you; if you have been sewing for many years, there will be lots of new ideas to try. I also hope the book will be a valuable reference for all students studying textiles and fashion. Having sewn since my teenage years and taught dressmaking and fashion for all my adult life, I am truly passionate about sewing. It can be so therapeutic—relaxing and satisfying. The ability to produce a unique item of clothing or something for your home is truly rewarding. The book is divided into three sections. The first, Tools, covers all the equipment required to sew, including sewing machines; gives an up-to-date guide to fabrics— their properties, care, and how to sew them; and explains how to alter patterns to make clothes that fit you perfectly. The next section is Techniques, with over 300 different sewing techniques to try, all in a step-by-step photographic format, covering everything from basic stitches and seams through to professional tailoring techniques. Each chapter begins with a visual directory of what the techniques are used for, be it types of pleats or pockets, necklines or sleeves, or buttonhole shapes. The third section of the book is Projects, where you will find 18 items to make, ranging from quick and easy hats through to Roman blinds and kimonos. All the projects use techniques that appear in the second section of the book. The final section includes an illustrated directory of fashion and home furnishing styles, as well as a useful glossary of sewing terms. Enjoy and happy sewing. 0U0S6_-000067-_0U0K7__SSDD339977..iinndddd 66 220//1100//0088 1165::5086::0390 0U0S6_-000067-_0U0K7__SSDD339977..iinndddd 77 220//1100//0088 1165::5086::1460 ABOUT For the photographs, we have often All of the techniques and used sewing threads of a contrast projects are graded according THIS color in order for the stitching to be to difficulty, from * (simple and visible. I recommend that you sew straightforward) to ***** (more BOOK with a thread that matches your complex and challenging). fabric as closely as possible. 0U0S8_-000089-_0U0K9__SSDD339977..iinndddd 88 260//1100//0088 1176::3234::5139