01.Lyman.FM.i-xvi 1/11/04 8:58 PM Page i The Overland Journey from Utah to California 01.Lyman.FM.i-xvi 1/11/04 8:58 PM Page ii books by the author Political Deliverance: The Mormon Quest for Utah Statehood, 1986 San Bernardino: The Rise and Fall of a California Community, 1996 A History of Millard County [Utah], With Linda King Newell, 1999 The Arduous Road: Salt Lake to Los Angeles, The Most Difficult Wagon Road in American History, With Larry Reese, 2001 The Overland Journey from Utah to California: Wagon Travel from the City of Saints to the City of Angels, 2004 History of Victor Valley, 2004 01.Lyman.FM.i-xvi 1/11/04 8:58 PM Page iii The Overland Journey (cid:2) from Utah to California Wagon Travel from the City of Saints to the City of Angels EDWARD LEO LYMAN university of nevada press Reno & Las Vegas 01.Lyman.FM.i-xvi 1/11/04 8:58 PM Page iv University of Nevada Press, Reno, Nevada 89557usa Copyright © 2004by the University of Nevada Press All rights reserved Manufactured in usa Book design by Kaelin Chappell Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Lyman, Edward Leo, 1942– The overland journey from Utah to California: wagon travel from the City of Saints to the City of Angels / Edward Leo Lyman. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references (p. ) and index. isbn 0-87417-501-1(alk. paper) 1.Overland journeys to the Pacific. 2.Trails—West (U.S.)— History—19th century. 3.Frontier and pioneer life—West (U.S.) 4.Wagon trains—West (U.S.)—History—19th century. 5.Pioneers—West (U.S.)—History—19th century. 6.Morman pioneers—West (U.S.)—History—19th century. 7.West (U.S.)—description and travel. 8.West (U.S.)—History, Local. I. Title. f593 .l955 2004 978'.02—dc22 2003019691 The paper used in this book meets the requirements of American National Standard for Information Sciences— Permanence of Paper for Printed Library Materials, ansi z39.48-1984.Binding materials were selected for strength and durability. First Printing 13 12 11 10 09 08 07 06 05 04 5 4 3 2 1 01.Lyman.FM.i-xvi 1/11/04 8:58 PM Page v For Clifford J. Walker, a longtime teacher and advocate of the desert and its trails 01.Lyman.FM.i-xvi 1/11/04 8:58 PM Page vi 01.Lyman.FM.i-xvi 1/11/04 8:58 PM Page vii (cid:2) Contents list of illustrations ix preface xi chapter one Contemporary Impressions Along the Southern Route 1 chapter two The Old Spanish Trail—Highway of Diversity 18 chapter three The Anglo-American Road in 1849 44 chapter four Varied Travelers 71 chapter five Outside Observers and Mormon-Indian Relations 98 chapter six Conflict with the Federal Government—and Tragedy 122 chapter seven Freighting from the Pacific Coast to Utah 152 01.Lyman.FM.i-xvi 1/11/04 8:58 PM Page viii viii Contents chapter eight Continued Emigration, Early Mojave Settlement, and Conflict with Native Americans in California 179 chapter nine Later Developments at Each End of the Southern Route 204 chapter ten Summary and Conclusions 227 notes 235 bibliography 265 index 275 01.Lyman.FM.i-xvi 1/11/04 8:58 PM Page ix (cid:2) Illustrations maps The rocky Coyote–Crowder Creek bed negotiated by the wagoners who traveled the Southern Route in 1.1Southern route through Utah 2 1849 56 1.2Southern route, Utah border to Red Pass, Jefferson Hunt, one of the first wagon train leaders California 7 over the Southern Route, San Bernardino state 1.3Southern route, Red Pass to the California legislator, and freighter over the route 59 settlements 15 Addison Pratt, Mormon missionary to Tahiti, diarist, 2.1Early trails in the southwestern United States 19 and gold discoverer along the Southern Route in 1849 66 figures Sketch of Mission San Gabriel by William Birdsall Padres Dominguez and Escalante and party Lorton in his diary entry on 17January 1850 67 entering the Utah Valley in 1776 21 Urania Macy Cheesman, one of the few women Jedediah Smith and his men crossing the Mojave travelers over the Southern Route for whom a Desert in 1826 22 photograph exists 76 Portion of a pack mule train such as would have Emigrant wagons in the Salt Lake City staging been typical on the Old Spanish Trail during area, a decade after the first use of such vehicles its heyday 27 over the Southern Route 77 John C. Frémont exploration party, morning Crossing the Plains,by Charles Nahl, around 1856, packing for continuation along the trail 32 depicting a fallen ox 79 Southern Paiute women with baskets used in Excavated grade down the intersecting ridge of gathering food 34 West Cajon Pass, 1965, after a brush fire Southern Paiutes gathered in a circle dance, exposed the early wagon road 80 apparently observed by Maj. John Wesley Charles Colson Rich, leader of the group of Powell 35 Mormon missionary-miners who packed over Col. Isaac Williams, proprietor of the Rancho del the Southern Route in 1849 82 Chino 40 Andrew Lytle, former Mormon Battalion officer The formidable Virgin Hill, unanimously rated and captain of the Mormon pioneer company the most difficult segment of the entire that founded San Bernardino in 1851 83 Southern Route 50
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