Th e Nile i ii Th e Nile History’s Greatest River Terje Tvedt iii I.B. TAURIS Bloomsbury Publishing Plc 50 Bedford Square, London, WC1B 3DP, UK 1385 Broadway, New York, NY 10018, USA 29 Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin 2, Ireland BLOOMSBURY, I.B. TAURIS and the I.B. Tauris logo are trademarks of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc First published in Great Britain 2021 Nilen: historiens elv by Terje Tvedt Translated by Kerri Pierce Original copyright © H. Aschehoug & Co (W. Nygaard), Oslo, 2012 The right of Terje Tvedt to be identifi ed as Author of this work has been asserted by the Licensor in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988. Cover design by Adriana Brioso Cover image: Landscape crossed by the Nile, Palestrina, 2nd–3rd century BC (mosaic). Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Palestrina e Santuario della Fortuna Primigenia, Palestrina, Italy. (© Bridgeman Images) All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage or retrieval system, without prior permission in writing from the publishers. Bloomsbury Publishing Plc does not have any control over, or responsibility for, any third-party websites referred to or in this book. All internet addresses given in this book were correct at the time of going to press. The author and publisher regret any inconvenience caused if addresses have changed or sites have ceased to exist, but can accept no responsibility for any such changes. A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. ISBN: HB: 978-0-7556-1679-4 ePDF: 978-0-7556-1681-7 eBook: 978-0-7556-1680-0 Typeset by Refi neCatch Limited, Bungay, Suffolk To fi nd out more about our authors and books visit w ww.bloomsbury.com and sign up for our n ewsletters . iv I am like one of those old books that ends up moldering for lack of having been read. Th ere’s nothing to do but spin out the thread of memory and, from time to time, wipe away the dust building up there. Seneca the Younger, 4 bce–65 ce v vi Contents List of plates xi Maps xiii Th e Beginning of the Journey Th e mosaic outside Rome 1 • Th e stream of history 4 Th e Desert and the Delta Th e desert paradise 7 • Scarabs, rebirth and the river of death and life 9 • Society and the river’s rhythm 11 • Cities and rivers that vanished 13 • Th e Nile city of Alexander the Great 15 • Philosophy’s beginnings 16 • Caesar and Cleopatra on the Nile 18 Jesus and Mary’s escape up the Nile Delta 20 • Th e Bible: God punishes those who claim they possess the river 22 • Islam conquers the Nile Delta 24 • Th e Caliph’s letter to the Nile 25 • Napoleon on the march 26 • Critique of Orientalism 31 Th e Battle of the Nile: Paris versus London 33 • Th e battle over the Rosetta Stone: thieves versus thieves 34 • Th e Albanian soldier who became the Nile’s reformer 36 Th e giraff e that sailed downriver and travelled to Paris 39 • Th e long-distance runner who perished on his way to the source of the Nile 40 • Th e canal between the oceans 41 • Gustave Flaubert and Henrik Ibsen: ‘From Cairo up the Nile’ 44 Shares and occupation 49 • Where the Egyptians made the Nile a weapon of war 50 At the crossroads of history, river and sea 52 Towards Karnak and the Nile Cataracts Th e city the Arabs founded and the British took 55 • A Nilometer with nothing to measure 58 • Conservative colonialists as a revolution’s vanguard 59 • Th e river as carrot and stick 63 • Th e Muslim Brotherhood will ‘secure the Nile’s sources’ 64 A role awaiting a hero 65 • Th e Suez Crisis and the dam 67 • Th e Soviet Union as the modernizer of the Nile 70 • ‘Th e Lady of the Nile’ 71 • Adrift on the Nile and a Nobel Prize winner 72 • An artifi cial waterfall in the desert 73 • Th ebes and Karnak in danger 75 • Th e Valley of the Kings and ideals of beauty 76 • Where travel literature arose 77 • Ancient Aswan as a symbol of modernity 79 • Th e downstream complex 81 Monumental monuments now and in ancient times 84 • Egyptian gods and eternal life 85 • ‘Revolt on the Nile’ and water insecurity 88 vii viii Contents Nubia and the Country Where the Rivers Meet Eighty kilometres of artifi cial desert lake 91 • Nubia: gold and cataracts 92 Muhammad Ali’s river war 95 • Th e politics of geography 97 • Explorers who vanished 98 • Wanderings and castles in the sand 99 • Where the great rivers meet 100 • Th e ‘light-bearer’ in Khartoum 102 • Th e dance in the sand 105 • Time and the river folk’s daughter 107 • Queen Victoria’s river war 108 • Th e British massacre on the banks of the Nile 111 • Th e unknown engineer and a historical report 113 Th e Blue Nile and the explorer from Norway 115 • Sudan’s possibilities and the birth of a hydraulic state 117 • A white-spotted gecko and the Prophet 119 Winston Churchill: ‘Munich is situated on the Nile’ 120 • Sudan and Egypt share the Nile 122 • Dump the whisky in the river! 123 • An Islamic coup 125 Osama bin Laden as Nile contractor 126 • A new city in the middle of the world’s longest kiss 128 • Sudan rattles its Nile weapon 129 • ‘A project of the century’ (and let them eat that arrest order) 131 • Nubia and Nile control 132 • Th e lion’s share 134 • Th e Middle East’s granary and a sugar company 134 Th e Nile Wetlands and the New State Th e land of distances 137 • A dictatorial river 139 • Th e Nilotic water world and a river chieft ain 141 • A thread that winds everywhere 142 • Arabic invaders from the north 144 • European adventurers in the swamps 146 • Europe on the brink of a water war in South Sudan 147 • A sacred pool 150 • On travelling the swamp and theories of Africa’s development 151 • Jonglei: a new aqueduct to the north 154 Razzias and peace 155 • ‘A human zoo for anthropologists to study’ 157 • World-class colonial research in the swamps 159 • A ‘Nile Republic’? 160 • Stop the canal! 161 In the shadows of the rainforest 163 • Th e new Nile state and George W. Bush 164 Another Nile granary? 167 • State formation and hydrodiplomacy 169 Th e Country with the Great Lakes Th e race to the source 173 • Th e adventurer and his slave wife 175 • ‘Discoverers’ or discoverers? 176 • Naked resolution and scientifi c evangelism 178 • Th e African kingdom at the Nile’s source 181 • Th e missionaries arrive 182 • Decisive for Egypt’s future 185 • London seizes control of the Nile lakes 187 • Where the animals rule (by the grace of humankind) 189 • Waterfalls and images of ‘the other’ and ‘us’ 190 ‘Baker of the Nile’ 191 • Winston Churchill in the jungle 192 • Bogart, Hepburn and Hemingway at the Nile Falls 194 • A Nile empire full of inner contradictions 196 Owen Falls: ‘Uganda’s beginning’ 199 • A British prime minister as ‘water warrior’ 201 Idi Amin claps for well-fed crocodiles on the Nile 203 • Th e woman and the water meant to bulletproof warriors 205 • Stories about the sacred water 207 • Th e Wizard of the Nile and the Lord’s Resistance Army 208 • New discoveries: oil in the Nile! 211 Contents ix Central Africa’s inland lake 213 • Darwin’s Pond, evolution’s teaching and mass extinction 215 • Th e Speke Resort, Museveni and the Nile 217 Th e Industrial Revolution comes to Uganda 219 • Th e world’s largest insect swarms and Nile time 220 East of the Inland Ocean Th e train through the country at the source of the White Nile 225 • Sleeping sickness and colonialism 226 • Th e railway that created a country 227 • Th e Asian and the Jewish questions 229 • Th e white tribe on the high plains 231 • A Nile state with no nation 233 • Olympic masters from the ‘stony river’ 236 • Masai Mara 238 • Th e Luo and Barack Obama’s journey 240 • Kenya and the Nile question 243 • Humanity’s cradle 245 • Bismarck and the rock at the water’s edge 246 • An unknown European naval battle on a Nile lake 249 • Colonial agreements and the Nile’s present 251 A country with gift economy 253 • Th e wildebeest crossing 255 What is the Nile? 256 • Pumping the lake and defying Egypt 257 Towards the Nile’s Sources in Central Africa Where the river splits and collects 261 • Plastic bags and fi re extinguishers 262 Hotel Rwanda and the river road 263 • Letter from Ground Zero 264 • What is ethnicity? 265 • A metamorphosis 269 • An American pastor at the source of the Nile 272 • A new era as the border shift s 274 • Gorillas in the mist 275 • Th e Nile source in the rainforest 276 • Heart of Darkness, Joseph Conrad and a Nile biography 278 • A snow-covered Moon Mountain on the Equator 282 • King Leopold, a robber state and Nile diplomacy 283 • Th e Congo Nile 286 • Lake Albert or Lake Mobutu 288 • A shift ing border 290 • ‘Dr Livingstone, I presume’ 291 Kingdom and colony 292 • Self-refl ection and masks 294 • Rivalry on all fronts 295 Th e guerrilla leader redeemed by a Norwegian preacher 296 • Courtship, carpets and water 298 • Th e pyramid at the source 300 Th e Water Tower in the East A train trip and an art deco capital on the Horn of Africa 303 • Italy as a Nile power 305 • Eritrea in exchange for a Nile dam 307 • Th e river as metaphor and boundary 309 • An outcast among nations 311 • Troublemaker or peace ambassador? 313 A surprise visit to Asmara 314 • To the Nile’s water tower 315 • Aksum and the highlands 317 • Th e moment’s limitations 318 • Monastery island, the sea and the world’s end 319 • An Ethiopian philosopher and cave dweller 321 • Mass baptism in Bahir Dar 322 • Th e sacred Nile and the Scot who posed as discoverer of the source 323 • Prester John and the Virgin Mary govern the Nile 325 • Occupation or agreement 326 • Rome and London’s secret plot 329 • Mussolini at the lake 331