The Livery Collar in Late Medieval England and Wales: Politics, Identity and Affinity

265 Pages·2016·9.32 MB·English

by  Matthew Ward

23mm???
notional
The livery collar had a pervasive presence in late-medieval
England. Worn about the neck to denote service to a lord, IN
L
references to the collar abound in government records, A
T
E
contemporary chronicles and correspondence, and many M
E
depictions of the collar can be found in illuminated D
I T
manuscripts and on church monuments. From the E
V H
A
fifteenth century the collar was regarded as a powerful L

E E
symbol of royal power, the artefact associating the N
G
recipient with the king; it also played a significant L L
A
function in the construction and articulation of political N I
D
V
and other group identities during the period. A
N
D E
This first book-length study of the livery collar W
R
A
examines its cultural and political significance from the L
ES Y
late fourteenth to the early sixteenth centuries, in :
P
O
particular between 1450 and 1500, the period associated L C
I
with the Wars of the Roses. It explores the principal T
I O
C
meanings bestowed on the collar, considers the item in its S
,
I L
various political contexts, and places the collar within the D
E L
sphere of medieval identity construction. It also N
T A
investigates the motives which lay behind its distribution, IT
Y R
shedding new light on the nature and understanding of A
N
royal power at the time. D
A
F
Matthew Ward teaches medieval history at the FI THE
N
University of Nottingham. IT
Y
L I V E R Y C O L L A R
Cover image: Tomb effigy with SS livery collar of Walter, Lord FitzWalter
(1432), Priory Church of Saint Mary, Little Dunmow, Essex. © C.B. Newham.
Reproduced with the kind permission of Rev’d Colin Taylor. M
Cover design: Jan Marshall W A LATE MEDIEVAL ENGLAND WALES:
T IN AND
A
T
R H POLITICS, IDENTITYAND AFFINITY
D
E
W
M A T T H E W W A R D
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The Livery Collar
in Late Medieval
England and Wales
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The Livery Collar
in Late Medieval
England and Wales
Politics, Identity and Affinity
matthew ward
THE BOYDELL PRESS
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© Matthew Ward 2016
All Rights Reserved. Except as permitted under current legislation
no part of this work may be photocopied, stored in a retrieval system,
published, performed in public, adapted, broadcast,
transmitted, recorded or reproduced in any form or by any means,
without the prior permission of the copyright owner
The right of Matthew Ward to be identified as
the author of this work has been asserted in accordance with
sections 77 and 78 of the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988
First published 2016
The Boydell Press, Woodbridge
isbn 978 1 78327 115 3
The Boydell Press is an imprint of Boydell & Brewer Ltd
PO Box 9, Woodbridge, Suffolk ip12 3df, UK
and of Boydell & Brewer Inc.
668 Mt Hope Avenue, Rochester, ny 14620–2731, USA
website: www.boydellandbrewer.com
A catalogue record for this book is available
from the British Library
The publisher has no responsibility for the continued existence
or accuracy of URLs for external or third-party internet websites
referred to in this book, and does not guarantee that any content on
such websites is, or will remain, accurate or appropriate
This publication is printed on acid-free paper
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Dedicated to C.E.J. (‘Sedge’) Smith
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The publishers acknowledge the generous financial support
of the Marc Fitch Fund in the production of this volume.
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Contents
List of illustrations viii
Acknowledgements x
Abbreviations xi
Introduction: The Livery Collar and Its Contexts 1
Part I 17
1 Function, Meaning and Significance 19
2 The Political Milieu 49
3 Visual Culture, Agency and Identities of Association 77
Part II 97
4 The Appearance of Lancastrian and Yorkist Livery Collars on
Church Monuments: Distribution and Motivations 99
5 Livery Collars in Wales and the Edgecote Connection 147
Conclusion 179
Appendix 1: Genealogies 187
Appendix 2: Livery Collars on Church Monuments in England,
Wales and Ireland to c. 1540 199
Bibliography 213
Index 237
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Illustrations
Plates – plates appear between pages 116–117
Plate 1. Henry VI portrait, unknown artist (c. 1540). London, National
Portrait Gallery.
Plate 2. Sir John Donne portrait, Donne Triptych, Hans Memling (c. 1475).
London, The National Gallery
Plate 3. SS dog collar worn by a white greyhound, Henry IV’s beast,
accompanied by the king’s motto Ma soueraine; Statutes of England (1420s).
Merton College, Oxford, MS 297B, fol. 273r. By kind permission of the
Warden and Fellows of Merton College
Plate 4. A knight is awarded a collar by the king (c. 1458). London, British
Library, Additional MS 30946, fol. 82v. © The British Library Board
Plate 5. The Lord Mayor’s collar. By kind permission of the Rt Hon. The Lord
Mayor of London
Plate 6. John, duke of Bedford portrait, from the Bedford Hours (c.
1423). British Library, Additional MS 18850, fol. 256v. © The British
Library Board
Plate 7. William Herbert and his wife kneel before Edward IV, in John Lydgate’s
Troy Book (c. 1461–62). British Library, Royal MS 18 D II, fol. 6. © The
British Library Board
Plate 8. Henry VII and his courtiers, from A Collection of Astrological Treatises
(c. 1490). British Library, Arundel 66, fol. 201. © The British Library Board
Plate 9. Tomb of William Herbert and his wife, Tintern Abbey; the
Herbertorum Prosapia. Cardiff Central Library, Philipps MS, 5:7, p. 145.
Courtesy of Cardiff Council Library Service
Plate 10. Military ordinance of Charles the Bold; Master of Fitzwilliam
268 (1475). British Library, Additional MS 36619, fol. 5. © The British
Library Board
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list of illustrations ix
Figures
Figure 1. St Mary’s, Bury St Edmunds (Suffolk). John Baret (d. 1467).
By kind permission of Stiffleaf Photography and St Mary’s Church,
Bury St Edmunds 32
Figure 2. George, duke of Clarence, from the Rous Roll. British
Library, Additional MS 48976, fols. 58–61. © The British Library Board 43
Figure 3. St Mary’s and St Barlok’s, Norbury (Derbyshire).
Nicholas Fitzherbert (d. 1473). By kind permission of Norbury PCC 133
Figure 4. All Saints’, Sawley (Derbyshire). Roger Bothe (d. 1478). By
kind permission of the Reverend Tony Street 136
Figure 5. All Saints’, Youlgreave (Derbyshire). Thomas Cockayne
(d. 1488). By kind permission of the Reverend Garrie Griffiths 138
Figure 6. All Saints’, Kedleston (Derbyshire). John Curzon
(d. c. 1492) and his wife, Joan. By kind permission of the Churches
Conservation Trust 141
Figure 7. All Saints’, Mugginton (Derbyshire). Nicholas Kniveton
(d. 1500). By kind permission of the Reverend Canon Alan Harper 142
Figure 8. Priory Church of St Mary, Abergavenny (Monmouthshire).
Sir William ap Thomas (d. 1445) and his wife, Gwladys. By kind
permission of Canon Mark Soady 153
Figure 9. John Carter’s drawing of Sir Richard Herbert’s tomb effigy
(1469). British Library, Additional MS 29938, fol. 74r. © The
British Library Board 171
Figure 10. Scolton Manor Museum (Pembrokeshire).
Sir Henry Wogan (d. 1475). Under the care of the service at the
County Museum, Scolton Manor. © Pembrokeshire Museums Service 174
Maps – appear with plates between pages 116–117
Map 1. Geographical distribution of livery collars in England, Wales and Ireland
Map 2. Distribution of livery collars according to type
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